Tuesday, June 14 – Inside a volcano, dairy farm, and Viking home

Today’s highlights were climbing a volcano, visiting a dairy farm, and seeing the Viking home of Erik the Red.

This bridge marks a major north-south thoroughfare in Iceland.

This bridge marks a major north-south thoroughfare in Iceland.

On the way we stopped at a farm field to see drainage ditches dug into soil.  Dr. Slater explained that the water table in Iceland is high due to snow melting from the mountains and glaciers.  These ditches have environmental repercussions if done all over Iceland because groundwater runs into sea. This dries out the dirt and oxidizes iron.  Also, the glaciers are receding, and Dr. Slater said Iceland is projected to be ice free by 2100. What will that be like?  A lot of the clean drinking water comes from the glaciers.  Even the hot springs business we saw relies on glacier melt.

We then drove over a beautiful bridge over the glacial river Hvita, which means White River. The farm behind river gets cut off by flooding. Although this was a narrow road and one-lane bridge, it was the main thoroughfare between north and south Iceland.

At another stop we saw a raven’s nest in an old quarry.   I got some pictures of the raven chicks and of some different kinds of flowers.

Climbing Grabrok

Then we arrived at the Grabrok volcano.  I am not good at stair steps up, and these steps were endless.   However, I have wanted to see inside a volcano since I was a kid.  I watched everyone else go up and debated whether to go.  Finally I decided that the first set of steps did not look that bad, and I could take breaks, so I set off.

The first set of steps leading up the Grabrok volcano.

The first set of steps leading up the Grabrok volcano.

With a few breaks to catch my breath, I made it up the flight of steps visible from the ground fairly well — but little did I know that when I rounded the corner, there would be another long flight of steps!  I debated going back down, but I had come this far, so after a short rest I started up those steps too. Unfortunately the hand rail stopped about halfway up the second flight.  Again I thought about going back, but when I turned around and looked down, I started to get dizzy.  Clearly going down was going to be harder than going up. So back up I went.

Finally I arrived at the first crater. I could see into it and got some pictures — basically it was a bunch of hardened lava rocks inside.  I’m not sure what else I expected — had it been molten lava, it would not be open for the public to see.  It was still pretty cool.  However, to see into the second crater required climbing up yet another set of steps with no handrail and walking around the edge of the one I had just climbed.  I didn’t think I would be up for that and sat on the bench.

At that point some of the other students (Danielle, Thomas, and Mitch) stopped by and asked how I was doing. They had already been up on the edge and gone all the way around. They said the view was amazing.  I said I probably couldn’t do it.  Danielle then offered to let me take her arm, and she would guide me up and around.  I hesitated at first because I’ve never been in a position where I needed physical help, especially from someone I barely know.  But it was such a kind offer, and without it, I really wasn’t sure I would be able to get down without getting dizzy and risking a fall. So I accepted, and we were able to walk around the entire crater, see the second crater, and get a view of the town below.

Inside the Grabrok volcano.

Inside the Grabrok volcano.

The crater lip was wider than I thought, which helped, and I was able to hold Danielle’s arm most of the way down.  Thomas accompanied us as well, and we were all able to talk and bond while touring.  On the way down we stopped at what looked like an archaeological site near the volcano and got some more photos.  Finally we made it down to the bus, and I was very happy that I had decided to give it a try at the bottom, even though I had no idea at the time just how many steps it involved.  Had I known, I might not have gone, so maybe it was good that about two-thirds of the steps were hidden from view.

On the way to the next stop we saw the landmark Mount Baula.   It looks like a triangle of rock coming out of the earth.  Dr. Slater said it was made of rhyolite and other volcanic leftovers pushed above the earth.  We also saw endless numbers of waterfalls on the side of mountains. Dr. Slater pointed out that Icelanders were trying to reforest by planting trees, but that it’s a little controversial.  Iceland used to be covered with trees, but people had cut them all down through the centuries.  Now the hillsides were being planted with conifers and birch, but not all the trees are native to Iceland, hence the controversy.

Personally I am not sure why that is so important.  Climate change is threatening the existence of humans and every other species, and reforestation is a big part of the solution for sequestering carbon.  We must do reforestation.  Certainly we should plant native trees because those are most likely to thrive.  But if other species of trees also thrive, why not plant them too?  Variety leads to healthier stock and more genetic diversity gives resistance to disease.  The main thing is to get trees planted to help with absorbing all the excess carbon in the atmosphere.

Dairy farm

Dairy cows line up to be milked.

Dairy cows line up to be milked.

The next stop was the Erpsstadir dairy farm. We heard a talk from its owner, Thorgrimur Einar Gudbjartsson — a really interesting guy.  The farm milks 60 cows a day, considered pretty large for Iceland, and produces 85 to 90 calves a year.  Cows deliver their first calf at 2 years old, and start by milking 10 liters in the morning and 7 in the afternoon.  That amount increases each day and peaks at two months.  Once the cow is pregnant again, milk production goes down until it stops six weeks before the next birth.  Calves are left with their mothers in the barn for 100 days.  The males are raised for two years before being sold for meat. The females are raised to replace the milking herd or sold for meat.

The cows are housed in the barn in winter but get access to fresh pasture on nearby mountains all summer.  They are very happy to hit the fields at the start of spring.  The farm keeps two bulls for breeding, and sometimes they are released in the same area as the cow herd to do their thing.  The cows can live a long time with this kind of life. The oldest cow on the farm was born in 2001. She was the first to come in to be milked when the farmer opened the fence to let the cows into the barn.  The breed is simply called Icelandic — a mix of breeds brought by settlers 1100 years ago.

Milking is done robotically.  The cows step into the milking area one by one, then the sensor figures out where to clean the teats and milk the cow.  The cows are generally anxious to get into the milking area to be relieved of the pressure in their udders.  The cows have access to the milking area 24/7.  If there is a problem, the machine will call Gudbjartsson no matter the time of day or night.

In 2008, the farm expanded into the agrotourism business, building a sales and reception area.  They finished just before the financial crash.  They sell teas, skyr, and lots of ice cream.  The other students each tried an ice cream but I opted to buy some skyr.  It tasted a little like very thick buttermilk, heavy and full of protein and probiotics.

Erpsstadir is named after one of first settlers in Iceland.  When the house and barn were first built in 1985, archaeologists found ruins from some of the earliest settlements in Iceland. This area is a good climate for agriculture, and farming has gone on here for 12,000 years.

Erik the Red’s home

Mitch in the doorway of Erik the Red's house.

Mitch in the doorway of Erik the Red’s house.

The next stop was Eirikstaddir, a reconstruction of the home of Erik the Red. We listened to a talk by a costumed guide and got to try out some Viking equipment.  Erik was from Norway, known for his big red hair and beard, and seemed to get into constant trouble.  At one point, a neighbor killed two of his sheep, so he killed neighbor’s two sons and was expelled from valley.

Erik’s house was made of driftwood and constructed so that all the pieces fit together with no nails, so he could take it apart and take with him wherever he went.  When he was expelled, he headed to the Westman Islands, but gave his household items to a friend to keep. Unfortunately the friend would not give the items back, so Erik killed friend and his son too.  That got him expelled from Iceland for three years — if anyone found him, they could legally kill him.

At that point Erik packed up his house and went to Greenland.  All he found was snow and ice, rocks, sea, and nothing green. But he named it Greenland in an attempt to get more settlers to come thinking it would be a good place to farm.  This is often seen as the world’s first marketing ploy.

Yash and Thomas check out the Viking sword.

Yash and Thomas check out the Viking sword.

Erik also sent his own son, Leif Erikson, to the king of Norway to learn how to be a farmer.  When Leif sailed back in 998, he overshot Greenland and ended up on the coast of Canada.  Unlike Greenland, Canada was actually green, so Leif settled there for a few years.  He then rented his house to Europeans and went back to Greenland where he was made head of state.  Erik died in Greenland in 1005 to 1010.  By then 1,000 Europeans had settled on the southwest coast. Leif died in Greenland in 1030.

After seeing Erik’s house, we got a late lunch, then headed to Seljaland to stay at a farm with guest cabins. This area was the home of Tobba’s grandparents, so close to her heart. She led the group on a “one-hour” hike, while I stayed in the room to catch up on some sleep and call home.  Two hours later everyone was back and exhausted from hiking almost straight uphill.  We got an excellent and much-needed dinner and headed to bed.

Here are some more photos from the day.  Click on any photo to enlarge it.

 

Monday, June 13 – Hvalfjörður

hvalfjordur map4

We started early today at 7:30 a.m.  It was hard to get up.  I’ve been having migraines every morning, and this morning was no exception, but it was a little better than yesterday.  I felt somewhat better after breakfast.

Sea tale

Today was spent at Hvalfjörður, or “whale fjord,” which I did my report on (pdf).  On the way, we stopped at a gas station that had information about whaling in Iceland (pdf), which is centered in Hvalfjörð.  While there, our guide Tobba told us about her role in rehabilitating Keiko, the captive orca star of Free Willy.  Keiko was in bad health from being held for years at a substandard amusement park in Mexico, and probably would have died had he been captive another year.  After seeing Free Willy, children found out the actual orca was in captivity and put together a campaign to free him. A foundation funded by the movie studio provided money to rehabilitate Keiko, and he was flown on a military plane to Iceland because that’s where he had been captured years ago.

Tobba works with Keiko in this still from Keiko: The Untold Story.

Tobba works with Keiko in this still from Keiko: The Untold Story.

Tobba worked with Keiko for a few years, and her work was covered in the documentary Keiko: The Untold Story.  She saw to it he got exercise, got in better shape, and encouraged him to join the groups of wild killer whales.  She said that the first year he was scared and hid behind the boat, but the second year he got a little closer, and the third year he followed them. We know he interacted with them because he came back with bite marks on his side.  At one point Keiko was found swimming with children off the coast of Norway, with parents encouraging the kids.  The foundation had to take out a protective order to stop people from letting their kids swim with Keiko.

Keiko lived six years after being freed, which Tobba considers a great success.  She also talked about what a sea pen would look like — a sanctuary for whales freed from captivity. Hvalfjörður would be perfect — just seal off some of the fjord with a net.  In my opinion this needs to happen, so that parks around the world that have these animals in captivity have an option for how to retire them.  Without an option, places like SeaWorld will keep the whales in captivity even if they are no longer using them in shows.

On a sad note, Tobba also talked about Tillikum, the killer whale who killed his trainer and two others.  SeaWorld has been keeping him in a tiny tank, and he is very sick. Tobba said they are keeping him for his sperm. I hope sometime soon we can make the sea pen for orcas happen, and wonder what that would take: How much money, what kind of negotiations with the government of Iceland, how to get the theme parks to send whales there, how much it would cost to take care of them, how to get accreditation for an ocean based sanctuary, etc.

Whale processing station operated by Hvalur HF, in Hvalfjörður, Iceland. Photo: Arnaldur Halldorsson/Bloomberg

Whale processing station operated by Hvalur H/F, in Hvalfjörður, Iceland. Photo: Arnaldur Halldorsson/Bloomberg

I have visited a number of accredited animal sanctuaries across the United States, and every one had a strong founder who had a vision and made it happen. A sea pen is a little more complicated than a land-based sanctuary, but it is the next logical step for dolphins and whales. The whaling station at Hvalfjörð could be turned into a center for caring for whales retired from captivity, rather than killing whales.  Someone would have to buy it from Kristjan Loftsson, owner of Hvalfur H/F whaling company, and he might be reluctant to sell, but if whaling in Iceland continues to lose money, he might come around. I don’t know who would be the right person or people to lead the charge on making this happen, but this is what I would love to see for the future of Hvalfjörður.

After the talk from Tobba, we drove past the Hvalfur whaling station.  Last year students saw a whale being processed, but this year there was no activity.  I was really glad about that. It happened because Loftsson called off the whale hunt this year, and I hope he doesn’t go back. The whale hunt has become unprofitable. Icelanders don’t eat whale meat, so Hvalur has to sell it to Japan which has an oversupply. Many countries do not allow Icelandic ships carrying whale meat to dock, making it hard to transport. It is apparent that the rest of the world does not want Iceland to continue killing an endangered species just to have the meat wind up in dog food.

Glymur

Glymur

Glymur. Photo: World of Waterfalls

We then went to Glymur, the second-tallest waterfall in Iceland at 649 feet.  Glymur had long been considered the tallest waterfall until retreat of the Vatnajökull glacier in eastern Iceland revealed a slightly taller waterfall in 2011.  Glymur, whose name means “rumble” or “clash,” was a popular destination before the Hvalfjörður tunnel was built, as the road around the fjord runs nearby. Although fewer people visit the waterfall now, it is considered one of the most beautiful areas of Iceland.

Glymur is situated just inland from the end of Hvalfjörður. The waterfall is part of the river Botnsá, which originates from Hvalvatn lake to the east. Hvalvatn is a 4 km (2.5 mi) lake surrounded by four volcanic mountains. The river Botnsá flows out west before falling down Hvalfell mountain into a steep canyon, though which it travels before flowing into the fjord.

Crossing the river Botnsá to hike to Glymur. Photo: World of Waterfalls

Crossing the river Botnsá. Photo: World of Waterfalls

The two-hour hike to the top of Glymur waterfall is steep and strenuous but incredibly beautiful. The trail requires hikers to climb rocky hillsides with only a rope for balance, walk narrow pathways with terrifying dropoffs, crawl through caves, and use a narrow log to cross a raging river. But the reward is stunning beauty with a view of the entire waterfall and the canyon below.

I was not able to climb all they way to Glymur though the photos looked gorgeous.  If I had brought hiking poles I might have been able to do it, but the steep steps and trails were more than I could handle.  I did get to the point where I could look over the river and see people going across the log crossing and up the other side.  Tobba and Susie were very kind in walking with me before heading down the steps to the river.

I lay down on that plateau for awhile, had a snack, then headed back.  I had to get to a bathroom, so our bus driver Sigthor took me back to the gas station.  By then it was open, so I used the facilities and got a snack.  When we got back to Glymur, the four guys were done with the hike, and everyone else was not far behind.

Sheep farm

Yash makes some new friends at Bjarteyjarsandur farm.

Yash makes some new friends at Bjarteyjarsandur sheep farm.

We then headed to the Bjarteyjarsandur sheep farm, a popular destination for agrotourism. Bjarteyjarsandur is a working farm run by three families with sheep, horses, free-range hens, cats, dogs, and wool rabbits. Visitors can book a cottage or camp overnight while learning about the farm and participating in activities. Thousands of school children and tourists visit the farm each year.

The experience at Bjarteyjarsandur emphasizes environment and sustainability. The farm’s main product is lamb meat raised organically, but it also sells artisanal handicrafts. Reforestation and soil reclamation are practiced to minimize erosion. Waste is minimized through conservation, reuse and recycling.

Bunnies!

Bunnies!

We got to hold baby rabbits and bottle feed orphan lambs.  I talked to a Canadian girl who was staying at the farm for three weeks in exchange for helping with daily chores. I also bought a wool scarf to replace a favorite scarf I lost last year.

We then headed to a swimming pool that turned out to be closed, and ended up walking on a black sand beach.  We got a geology and fossil lesson from Dr. Slater and got the company of an area dog.  At one point the students found a live starfish on the beach.  We took a few photos, and then I was really happy to see the students put the starfish back into the water.  There was an incident earlier this year when tourists found a sick baby dolphin on the beach.  They passed him around so much for photos that he died. I didn’t want that to happen in our case, and it didn’t.

Finally we got to a swimming pool in Borgarnes.  Since I hadn’t gotten in a full hike earlier in the day, I went right for lap swimming.  I got in 30 laps before it was time to go, and felt much better afterwards.

Here are a few more photos from the day. Click on any image to enlarge it:

 

Sunday, June 12 – Hot spring, Snorrastofa, waterfalls, lava cave, goat farm

Today started with a visit to the Deildartunguhver thermal spring.  On the way Tobba pointed out a house growing strawberries in a greenhouse heated with geothermal.  This is a way Icelanders can get access to fresh fruits and vegetables that they wouldn’t have otherwise.  Pairing geothermal energy with the long summer days seems like the perfect way to grow fresh food here, though I am not sure how it could be done in winter months.

As we pulled up to the hot spring, we could see steam coming out of the earth. We toured a spa facility called Krauma, or “boiling,” still under construction.  The owner told us his grandmother owned the hot spring, and that their house had been heated since 1930.  That was well before most homes in Iceland got their own heat, which occurred in the 50s.

All the walls of the spa were made of concrete, I am guessing to stand up to the winds of Iceland and hold in the heat. There was a series of large hot tubs under construction, each to be a slightly different temperature.  The owner told us that people will be able to lie in the hot tub and watch the northern lights.  There will also be a restaurant for 60 people.  This area of Iceland gets 200,000 tourists a year and growing. I asked the owner if he plans to build a hotel, and he laughed.  The spa and restaurant seem like enough.  He said he plans to open in July, but it looked like they still had a long way to go.

Snorrastofa

Snorrastofa in Reykholt, Iceland

Snorrastofa in Reykholt, Iceland

The next stop was Reykholt to see Snorrastofa, home of Snorri Sturluson, the 13th century poet and politician who wrote the Prose Edda and likely Egil’s Saga.  These are definitive works of mythology and Icelandic national identity.  The church and museum had a detailed display of Snorri’s life and several original editions of his books.

Geir Waage, a Lutheran priest in residence at Snorrastofa, told us the entire story of Snorri’s life, stopping periodically to snuff tobacco.  I didn’t get all of it, but did learn that Snorri married his first wife for money, dumped her but kept the money and had several mistresses. They had several children but only one survived. He traveled to Norway where his best friend was Earl Skuli Baardsson, who thought himself the most beautiful man on earth. An engraving of the earl depicts his long curly hair. The Norwegian King had the earl killed, so Snorri criticized the king in poetry, not directly but by portraying a previous Norwegian king badly.

A page from Snorri's "Egil's Saga"

A page from Snorri’s “Egil’s Saga”

Back in Iceland, Snorri fell in love with a noble woman named Hallveig Ormsdottir and had several children with her, but none survived. She died young and he was heartbroken.  Snorri also served as speaker of the Icelandic parliament for many years.  He held political discussions in his pool, which is still there today behind the house. He was assassinated in the closet near the pool on orders of the Norwegian king.  Waage said Snorri said “Do not strike” three times, quoting the 5th commandment “Thou shalt not kill,” but they killed him anyway.

Checking out Snorri's pool

Checking out Snorri’s pool

I am not sure whether Waage was playing a role or if he really thinks a lot of what he said, but his talk was like listening to someone who stepped out of a past era.  It was clear he idolizes Snorri, which is understandable.  But he made several fairly blatantly sexist statements. For example, it was fine for Snorri to marry for money, keep mistresses, dump the wife, and keep her money.  But it was not fine for women to have money of their own.  Waage made a couple of references to “women and money,” as if everyone knows that women can’t handle money and will spend it all on stupid things.

The other thing odd about the talk was the constant violence.  Everyone was killing everyone.  It sounded as if someone would kill someone as easily as look at them.  There were stories about running into someone on the road and slaying them on the spot.  Perhaps these sorts of encounters are what got memorialized in the sagas more than mundane activities, but it came across like a giant game of Dungeons and Dragons. I get the idea that Iceland of the old ages was extremely violent, and that women had no control over their lives.

Lava Falls and Children’s Falls

On the way to the next stop, we passed by a dairy farm that Tobba said is one of the largest in Iceland.  It has 150 cows which they milk robotically.  I wonder what they would think of an average dairy farm in the United States with hundreds of cows.

The next stop was an area of natural waterfalls — Lava Falls or Hraunfossar and Children’s Falls or Barnafoss. They are fed through the river Hvita, formed from glacial melt.  There’s another sad story associated with Barnafoss.  The falls were said to have once held a stone bridge, but the bridge was removed after a woman’s two children left the house while she was at Mass, slipped on the bridge, fell into the river and drowned.

We spent an hour at this site climbing around the lava rocks above Barnafoss and Hraunfossar.  There were also some good foot bridges and boardwalks to go across.  Lava Falls was amazing.  I have seen streams in Ohio that people have reconstructed to look natural, but no human could possibly construct something that looks like Lava Falls with the water coming out of the rocks and falling across a flat plate.

Lava cave

Entering the cave

Entering the cave

After lunch we then went to Víðgelmir, the largest lava tube cave in Iceland.  This is a cave formed by lava under a volcano.  This cave dates to 930 to 970 AD. Remains of an outlaw who lived there in the early 1000s were found, along with the fire pit where he had his last meal.

There was a large set of wooden steps going downtown a boardwalk that led 700 meters back into the cave.  Once we got our helmets and lights on, we set off. The light on my helmet turned out to be very dim, but the guides were excellent and helped me out at one point where the boardwalk stopped and I couldn’t see where to put my feet.  They guided me through and gave me some extra lights to hold.

Stalagmites in the cave

Stalagmites in the cave

We saw stalagmites and stalactites (which Icelanders had given some naughty names), and all kinds of different rock formations.  The cave had some lighting in most areas, but at the end we stopped in an area where the guides had everyone turn off their lamps, and we experienced total and complete blackness.  This was where they told a story about Icelandic zombies, which is the first I’ve heard of zombies in Iceland, but they are pretty much everywhere nowadays.

Going back up the steps to get out and get back to the visitors center was arduous, but I made it, and people were still waiting to use the bathroom when I got back to the visitors center, so my slowness didn’t hold anyone up.

Goat farm

Tobba's daughter holds a baby goat.

Tobba’s daughter holds a baby goat.

After the cave we headed to a much livelier destination at Háafell Goat Farm. The farm’s owner, Jóhanna Bergmann Þorvaldsdóttir, is on a mission to save the Icelandic goat, considered a rare breed, from extinction.  At one point there were less than 300 of these goats in existence, so Þorvaldsdóttir gave up a career in Reykjavik to start the farm where she breeds them.  We got to visit with some of the goats to pet and hold the babies. The farm’s shop sells cheese made from goat milk and other products.  We relaxed with some coffee, tea, and crackers before heading back to Hvanneyri for dinner.

Here are some more photos from the day. Click on any photo to enlarge it.

 

 

Saturday, June 11 – Arrival in Iceland

0611AUI tour

First tour of Agricultural University of Iceland

We arrived this morning after a five hour overnight plane ride. I got no sleep on the plane and was too tired to do much besides get my luggage.

We got our first look at scenery in Iceland driving from the airport to Agricultural University in Hvanneryi. On the way we went through the Hvalfjord tunnel.  I recognized it from writing about Hvalfjörður. It took about five minutes to get through, just as in the videos I watched.

At the university we met our guide Tobba and got our rooms.  I got much needed shower and much needed lunch – I had had no food since 10 p.m. the night before, and it was almost 1 p.m., so I was starving.

0611 AUI horses

The horses were curious

After lunch we walked around the small campus of Agricultural University to see flowers and birds. Like most agricultural colleges, AUI had horses and cows who seemed very curious about us. Dandelions seem to be ubiquitous worldwide, but we also also saw a purple flower called lupine. It’s considered an invasive species in Iceland but I like it.

We ended up at wool shop and Agriculture Museum. I was too tired to take in much at the museum.  The hand-knitted scarves at the wool store were gorgeous, but prohibitively expensive, especially considering I have a habit of losing scarves.

0611 lupine

Lupine is everywhere in Iceland

We then had a snack, and heard about how the yarn is created with botanical dye. The dye is all plant based and works through basic chemistry.  Some of the results are pretty cool and unexpected. Insects are used to make the red dye, not just for yarn but also food.  Do vegans know this is in so much food?

We also saw a small hydropower plant that runs from a small waterfall.  The waterfall was gorgeous and not spoiled from being used for the power plant.  I liked that the power plant is small, distributing power in a local area. A few huge power plants can do more environmental harm, and monopolies of power make a few people rich.

We had been scheduled to swim on campus that afternoon, but the campus pool was closed, so we went to an art exhibition in the woods.  The photography was amazing and displayed entirely outdoors.

0611 forest art

An art exhibition in the forest

Ohio News Connection

Last week the Sierra Club set up an interview for me with Mary Kuhlman of Ohio News Connection, a news service that provides radio stories to public radio stations around the state.  Yesterday her story appeared on their website.  It is reprinted below:

An Ohio View from Paris:
“World is Ready for Climate Action”

 

Cathy Becker of Grove City joined the Sierra Club at the UN Climate Conference. (Earth to Paris)

Cathy Becker of Grove City joined the Sierra Club at the UN Climate Conference. (Earth to Paris)

December 28, 2015

COLUMBUS, Ohio – Some Ohoans were on hand this month in Paris as global leaders mapped out a blueprint for the future to reduce the damaging impacts of climate change.

Cathy Becker of Grove City was a member of the Sierra Club delegation at the U.N. Climate Change Conference. After her time spent among other activists, students, business leaders, lawmakers, indigenous groups and faith organizations, she said she now sees that the world is ready for climate action.

“It was just really refreshing,” she said. “The debate wasn’t whether it’s happening or whether we can do something about it – it’s what to do about it, and how to do it, and what our ultimate goals are.”

She said she believes the accord is truly historic because it involves 195 countries agreeing to make their own steps to lower emissions, and then revisit their contributions every five years. In the past, attempts at global climate accords held just 10 major nations responsible.

The accord seeks to limit rising temperatures to within 2 degrees Celsius above pre-industrial levels. Becker said leaders also listened to a call from some small island countries threatened by rising sea levels to include a possible limit of 1.5 degrees Celsius, which she called “a really high bar.

“We will have to convert lots of fossil fuels very quickly to meet 1.5, but that is the de facto target at this point,” she said., “That was a surprise there was just so much momentum going into this that countries, basically a lot of them, agreed to this.”

Another notable moment, Becker said, was a pledge by 1,000 mayors to go 100 percent renewable by 2050.

“The UN said about 75 percent of carbon emissions are on the local level, so cities can make a huge, huge difference,” she said. “So I would encourage any local leaders in Ohio to take a look at that and take a look at their cities and see what they can do.”

Becker said climate discussions did not just focus on the transition away from the use of fossil fuels, but also the need to address justice and democracy in climate action by helping those in the developing world access clean energy.

Mary Kuhlman, Public News Service – OH

– See more at: http://www.publicnewsservice.org/2015-12-28/climate-change-air-quality/an-ohio-view-from-paris-world-is-ready-for-climate-action/a49581-1#sthash.ARv73jnF.dpuf

Witnessing – and making — history in Paris

Note: This is an article I published about my experiences at the Paris climate conference in the newsletter for the Sierra Club Central Ohio Group (pdf). 

In December I traveled to Paris as part of the Sierra Club delegation to the COP 21 climate conference.  The conference marked a turning point for humanity, resulting in an agreement by almost 200 countries signaling that the age of fossil fuels is over.

Although I did not have a badge for the actual climate negotiations – the United Nations issued many fewer badges than usual this year – Sierra Club members got daily reports from Fred Heutte, lead volunteer for the Federal and International Climate Campaign.

That left most of us free to attend civil society events and actions – and there were a lot. Throughout the two weeks, the Sierra Club had a booth at Climate Generations, the space next to the negotiations where hundreds of organizations had displays, and as many as eight speakers and panels on climate were going on simultaneously.

There were also dozens of meetings, festivals, actions, and other events occurring daily throughout Paris – sometimes it was hard just hearing about them all. There was no way to attend everything – you had to choose.  But no matter what you picked, it would be good.

The hostel where I stayed, called Place to B, had daily programs featuring speakers such as James Hansen, Vandana Shiva, and Amy Goodman.  There were also numerous side conferences such as UNESCO’s Earth to Paris, featuring an all-star lineup of scientists and activists and an interview with Secretary of State John Kerry; and the Climate Summit for Local Leaders, at which 1,000 mayors pledged to take their cities 100 percent renewable by 2050.

Here are some highlights from my time in Paris:

1.5 degrees. Although most observers expected participating countries to agree to limit warming to 2°C, almost no one anticipated the momentum to lower that limit to 1.5°C.  It started with a call from climate vulnerable countries led by the Marshall Islands. Then France and Germany joined, then Canada and Australia, then the United States and China.

In the end, all countries pledged to limit warming to “well below 2°C above pre-industrial levels” and “pursue efforts to limit the temperature increase to 1.5°C, recognizing that this would significantly reduce the risks and impacts of climate change.”

Indigenous peoples. Indigenous people from around the world were key players in many events such as an anti-fracking summit and a conference on women at the frontlines of climate change.

They also led the Indigenous Flotilla, featuring the Canoe of Life which traveled from the Amazon.  Dozens of indigenous people canoed and kayaked into Bassin de la Villette to present world governments with their “Living Forest” proposal drawing from indigenous experience to live in harmony with nature.

Rights of nature. A two-day International Rights of Nature Tribunal explored the rights of nature as a legal concept and how they might be defended in a series of cases against violators of those rights.  Cases included:

  • Climate crimes against nature such as fossil fuels, deforestation, and water use;
  • Financialization of nature, including carbon trading and REDD;
  • Agribusiness and GMOs;
  • Criminalization of environmental activism and murders of activists;
  • Shale fracking operations, which speakers argued was akin to rape of the earth;
  • Megadams in Brazil that destroy ecosystems and displace indigenous people;
  • Ecocide through oil operations in Ecuador’s Yasuni National Park.

Trade and climate. Throughout the two weeks were events on trade, unions, jobs, and climate, emphasizing that while addressing climate change through renewable energy creates jobs, bad trade deals destroy both jobs and climate. The culmination was a general assembly at the Climate Action Zone on “Capitalism and Climate” featuring Naomi Klein.

While climate agreements are not legally binding, Klein said, trade deals such as NAFTA and the TPP are not only binding but would allow corporations to sue to overturn laws protecting the climate that hurt their profits.  The trade and climate movements should work together to defeat this, she said.

Exxon trials. There were two mock trials of Exxon similar to the successful RICO case against tobacco corporations by the Justice Department. A recent investigation by Inside Climate News shows that Exxon was conducting some of the foremost climate science in the 1970s and 80s, but in the 1990s chose to bury this information and instead fund climate denial campaigns.

In the first trial, held at the People’s Climate Summit, Bill McKibben and Naomi Klein called a series of witnesses affected by climate change to show the damage that Exxon’s denial campaigns have done. The second event featured Matt Pawa, an environmental attorney who has won cases against Exxon and AEP, building a RICO case based on recently released documents.

On and off police actions. Before COP 21 started, French authorities banned large climate marches due to the November 13 terrorist attacks in Paris. The attacks were still fresh when I arrived. Massive numbers of flowers, candles, photos, and other mementos were placed around the statue of Marianne at Place de la Republique as well as in front of and across several blocks near the Bataclan club, where most of the victims lost their lives.

I was taking photos at Place de la Republique on November 29 when police cracked down on a few hundred demonstrators, and I was nearly swept up. By December 12, thousands of activists were flooding the streets, and French authorities finally relented and gave them a permit.  The result was a beautiful Red Lines demonstration organized by 350.org.

The climate conference in Paris was historic, not only for the agreement it produced, but for the breadth, depth, and global nature of events and actions surrounding it. I feel privileged to have participated in these events and witnessed history being made.

Monday, December 14 – Postscript and Analysis

I’ve now had a few more days to gather news and analysis about the Paris Agreement, and experts and commentators have had a few more days to supply it.  In general most commentators seem pretty happy with the agreement. They acknowledge that it does not do everything that is needed, but they see it as the start of a new era in which we will transition to a new clean energy economy.  There are exceptions to this assessment though; James Hansen called the Paris Agreement a “fraud” and some of my social media friends expressed disappointment.  But these voices, at least from my vantage point, are the minority.

Here is some additional news and analysis:

The New York Times –  Climate Accord is a Healing Step, if not a Cure, by Justin Gillis

The Guardian – The Paris agreement signals that deniers have lost the climate wars, by Dana Nuccitelli

The Conversation – Five things you need to know about the Paris climate deal, by Simon Lewis

The Economist – The Paris agreement marks an unprecedented political recognition of the risks of climate change

EurActive.com – Coal lobby chief: COP21 means ‘we will be hated like slave traders’

Salon – “It’s up to us”: Paris was in a celebratory mood at the end of the climate summit, but activists know it’s not a time to rest

Thomas Friedman – Paris Climate Accord is a Big, Big Deal

Meanwhile, discussion and debate about the Paris Agreement continued across the internet, including on my own Facebook page.  Here is what one friend posted:

Many of us still don’t understand the level of enthusiasm for this agreement. Do you have a point-by-point analysis that explains this? I’m interested in things like the deadline for carbon emission neutrality and that there are no concrete limits to global emissions.

I am certainly not an expert, but I took this inquiry seriously and wrote the following lengthy response:

First on the agreement itself. You are right that it is not specific about some things, such as the carbon emission neutrality (it sets a goal of being carbon neutral sometime after 2050 but before 2100) and limits to each nation’s greenhouse gas emissions (it says pledges should reflect the “highest possible ambition” and countries should lower emissions “as soon as possible”). And none of this is legally binding.

I am sure you know the background to the Paris climate conference, but Brad Plumer at Vox has a good history here.

Basically, the tactic of trying to get countries to sign onto specific and legally binding targets for lowering carbon emissions has been tried for the last 20 years and has not worked. Kyoto failed because it required only developed nations to sign on, and Copenhagen failed because no one wanted the targets to be legally binding.

So this year, the world community tried a different approach of seeking voluntary commitments from every country. The momentum started in November 2014 when Obama forged an agreement with China setting meaningful targets for both countries to lower emissions. Since then, over the past year, almost every other country in the world has announced its own targets. This meant that once the climate conference rolled around in December, most of the work had already been done, and it was up to negotiators to craft an agreement with for how those pledges would be carried out over time and how wealthy countries would help poor countries cope with the effects of climate change and establish renewable energy industries for their citizens.

Also, as I am sure you know, all these pledges put together do not get us to the 2 degrees C limit of warming that past climate conferences have identified at the upper limit — much less to the 1.5C limit that many scientists have said is the most we can warm the planet without destabilizing the climate. Right now adding up all national pledges would get us to probably 2.6C, which is too high.

All that makes the agreement seem pretty weak, right? So here are some reasons why I think this agreement is historic.

— It is the first time a climate agreement covers all nations – not just developed nations. That means 195 nations had to agree to it — including the U.S., China, India, Saudi Arabia, and all the little island states. All of them are covered, and all agreed to it by consensus. So everyone has a stake in the outcome.

— The agreement includes a mechanism to review pledges and emissions every five years and ramp them up. This is crucial. No one expected the Paris Agreement to get emissions down to 2C, but the review mechanism allows countries to ramp up commitments over time. A lot of this is human psychology. Once an economy gets started down a certain path — toward renewable energy for example — people will find that it’s easier than they think — and ramping up commitments will look easier five or 10 years from now than if we tried to envision that while we are still stuck inside the fossil fuel infrastructure. We have a lot of work to do, but this agreement basically gives us the shove that we need to get started, and once we get started, momentum will help us keep going.

— Transparency requirements. Countries have to follow strong reporting requirements so that other countries can see what they are doing to lower emissions and if they are staying on track. There was a lot of resistance to this in the climate negotiations — China in particular didn’t want other countries poking around in its business. But Kerry and Obama got them and others to commit. Transparency will help ensure that peer pressure stays on all countries because everyone else will be watching.

No there are not penalties if a country reneges on its commitment, but really, even if it was legally binding, what could be done anyway? No one is going to send in an army to force a country to ramp up renewables. Legally binding or not, it is going to be done through peer pressure, with naming and shaming if a country doesn’t follow through. Such tactics are actually pretty powerful. Studies in social psychology show, for example, that the most powerful message to get someone to recycle is not that it helps the environment or that it saves money, but that everyone else is doing it. People generally want to stay within established norms, and that applies to countries on the world stage as well.

Also, with the deniers in Congress, there is no way we could have made the targets for lowering emissions legally binding. If we had tried, the agreement would have had to go before Congress for ratification, and it would have failed. That would not have helped anyone. Even committing a certain amount of money to the Green Climate Fund to help developing nations deploy renewables could have required it go to Congress, since Congress has the power under our consitution to allocate funds. So Obama and Kerry had to be very careful about how this was written so as to avoid sending the agreement to Congress to be killed.

Momentum really seems to be the name of the game here. Momentum started as every country over the past year started making its climate commitments. Then when we got to the conference itself, several unexpected things happened:

— First, more than 100 nations went on record as supporting a warming limit of not just 2C but 1.5C — even many developed economies such as the United States. This means these leaders understand the severity of climate change and what it means for the island nations that are being swallowed by sea level rise. Elizabeth May put it this way at a briefing with the Sierra Club: The difference between 1.5 and 2C is the difference between the Greenland and Antarctic ice sheets melting, the survival of island nations, and whether or not we destabilize the climate.

A target of 1.5C – at least in theory – is a huge commitment. We have already raised temperatures almost a degree since the Industrial Revolution, and we have almost a half degree locked in due to the long half-life of carbon. Leaders may not have thought all of that through when they publicly bought into a limit of 1.5, but they did so because it is the right thing to do. It will mean almost immediate transiton from fossil fuels to renewables — but there is evidence that people are ready to make that switch.

— Second, a group of over 1000 mayors from five continents signed onto an agreement to transition to 100 percent renewable energy in their communities by 2050. This is huge because cities and local areas are where the rubber meets the road. This is the arena where the most actual lowering of carbon emissions can take place. The level of cities is small enough to be manageable but large enough to make a difference, especially when so many of them are moving in the same direction. And to have so many city leaders ready to go carbon neutral by 2050 is huge. It goes way beyond the requirements of the Paris Agreement, and it shows how, in the words of Francois Holland the agreement is a floor, not a ceiling.

— Finally three different groups of international investors announced major investments in research, development, and deployment of clean energy in both developed and developing nations (Mission Innovation, Breakthrough Energy Coalition, International Solar Alliance). Again this goes beyond the requirements of the agreement – yet it would not be happening if the agreement did not exist. Such major funding will itself have spin-off effects, with innovations spurring more innovation as companies and industries do not want to be left behind. It is crucial that business and industry as well as government be on board with the transition from fossil fuels to renewables, and these announcements shows that they are, even though they are not covered by the Paris Agreement.

One other point about this agreement. In past climate conferences, the deniers were always working hard to undermine it with front groups and lies. Just before Copenhagen was when they launched Climategate after hacking into climate scientists’ emails, which helped derail that treaty. This year, however, they were not effective. Lamar Smith has been harassing NOAA scientists in an effort to get their emails for a replay of Climategate, but it hasn’t worked. The Heartland Institute held a press conference in Paris featuring the usual cast of characters, and no one showed up. Basically, the world ignored the deniers and moved on. The deniers have become irrelevant.

For all these reasons, I feel like the Paris Agreement is larger than its individual parts. Although it doesn’t say so in the text, the agreement has basically signalled to the world that the era of fossil fuels is over. It is hard to overstate how significant this is. Many commentators said the real importance of the agreement is in signalling markets and investors to move away from fossil fuels and into renewables. And the crazy thing is how fast this is happening.

Just today I have been hit with three different news stories showing these changes in action. First NPR had a story about how business at the Tar Sands has slowed down so much that it’s likely most of the oil will stay in the ground. The reporter used that phrase at least three times. Second, Ford announced a major investment in a new line of electric vehicles. They would not be doing that if they didn’t think this is the way the world is moving, and they wanted to get on board quickly.

Finally, in my home state of Ohio, AEP, a major utility powered mostly by coal, announced an agreement with the Sierra Club by which they will phase out most (possibly all) of their coal plants in the state, and instead will invest in wind and solar, creating a lot of jobs, especially in the poor Appalachian part of the state. This is a 180 degree turn for this company, which once literally bought out all the residents of a town so that they would not have to clean up the pollution from their nearby coal plant.

Basically, I think the Paris Agreement represents a turning point in history. Is it enough by itself to solve climate change? No it is not, and not single document could be. But it has completely changed the circumstances and momentum of the debate. It gives us a huge tool to use in getting government and industry on board, holding them accountable for their current commitments, and demanding that they do more. Just the support from so many nations for 1.5C gives us a major bargaing chip.

No, activists cannot simply disband and go home. We have to see this through and hold them to their commitments. But I think the atmosphere in which we will be working has now completely changed, and that even if the Paris Agreement itself is not specific about numbers and timelines, other things that governments and industries have said as a result of negotiating this agreement are much more specific, and that we now have the tools needed to hold them to their word and make the new economy happen.

Saturday, December 12 – We have an agreement

Today was my travel day back to the United States. It was also the day that the final draft of the Paris Agreement was to be released — and the day thousands of climate activists had vowed to flood the streets of Paris in defiance of a ban on demonstrations by the French government — both happening around noon.  With my flight from Paris to New York leaving at 10:30 a.m., I was in the air for nine hours, plus an additional six hours due to changes in time zone – putting me out of communication for a crucial 15 hours.

Lots of legroom in business class

Lots of legroom in business class

Fortunately I was able to upgrade to business class for the long flight, which meant I could actually sleep a few hours after staying up very late packing,  But by the time I landed in New York at 8 p.m. Paris time, 2 p.m. local time, I was desperate for information.  My friends on social media were only too happy to supply it.  The negotiators at COP21 had reached an agreement — by most accounts a good one.  The French government at the last minute had issued a permit to climate activists.  My feed was flooded with stories and analysis about the historic Paris Agreement, my email was overflowing with reactions from NGO groups, and my friends were posting photos and videos from the day’s events.

Pics

The photos and videos from the demonstrations organized by 350.org and others are amazing, and remind me of the 2014 People’s Climate March in New York City.  I am so glad that the French government finally came to its senses and allowed people to express themselves.  Perhaps they had no choice, as literally tens of thousands of activists were in the streets, and there would be no way to arrest even a small percentage.  Perhaps this chain of events shows people like Naomi Klein know more about activism than I do.  When she urged people to take to the streets in mass numbers, they did, and they won.  I was now sorry that I couldn’t get an extra day at Place to B, but then I’m also glad to be home.

My Paris flight landed 45 minutes late in New York, giving me only half an hour to go through customs, collect my luggage and recheck it, get to the other side of the airport, go back through security, and find my gate.  I got there two minutes before the plane was to take off, but it was already gone.  It took me awhile to rouse up someone at an American Airlines counter to rebook me, and when I did they were incredibly rude.  Air travel has become extremely stressful and unpleasant.  On the other hand, the three-hour wait for the next flight gave me time to get a good dinner and catch up on all the COP 21 news and reactions.  Here is some of what I found.

Paris Agreement

UNFCCC – Final agreement

UNFCCC – Press release

Video – Fabius bangs gavel on COP21

President Obama – Video statement

White House  – Press release

Ban Ki Moon – Statement

Saturday actions

350.org – Video

350.org – Photos

Citizens Voice – Video

Greenpeace – Video

Naomi Klein and Bill McKibben – Facebook live

News stories 

The New York Times – Nations Approve Landmark Climate Accord in Paris, by Coral Davenport

The Washington Post – 196 countries approve history climate agreement, by Joby Warrick and Chris Mooney

Politico – The one word that almost sank the climate talks, by Andrew Restuccia

Think Progress – In Historic Paris Climate Deal, World Unanimously Agrees To Not Burn Most Fossil Fuels, by Joe Romm

Mother Jones – Breaking: World Leaders Just Agreed to a Landmark Deal to Fight Global Warming, by Tim McDonnell and James West

Guardian – Paris climate deal: nearly 200 nations sign in end of fossil fuel era, by Suzanne Goldenberg et al

Al Jazeera – World leaders make history with climate deal in Paris

BBC – COP21 climate change summit reaches deal in Paris

Carbon Brief – Analysis: The Final Paris climate deal

Reactions

Sierra Club – Sierra Club on the Paris Climate Agreement: “A Turning Point For Humanity”

Citizens Climate Lobby – With Paris agreement adopted, climate action begins in earnest

James Hansen – James Hansen, father of climate change awareness, calls Paris talks ‘a fraud’

Bill McKibben – World leaders adopt 1.5 C goal — and we’re damn well going to hold them to it

Climate Action Network –  Civil society responds as final Paris Climate Agreement released

International Council for Science – Top scientists weigh in on current draft of Paris climate agreement

The Conversation – Historic Paris climate pact reached: Experts react

After 22 hours of travel, I am happy to be home.

After 22 hours of travel, I am happy to be home.

COP 21 State of Play – Days 10 and 11

Each day, Fred Heutte, lead volunteer for the Sierra Club’s Federal and International Climate Campaign, is providing updates about the day’s events at COP21, the Paris Climate Conference.  I will reprint these in this blog with his permission.

Fred Heutte

Fred Heutte

WEDNESDAY, DEC. 9 — There was a lot of anticipation for the release of a new negotiating text, but when it finally appeared Wednesday afternoon it was immediately clear that it lacked ambition even in the limited political bounds of this COP.

A lengthy evening review session of the Paris Committee showed general support for the French presidency’s process going forward, but highlighted a great many concerns across both the draft Paris Agreement and the COP decision.

While the text reduced the draft Agreement from 22 down to 14 pages and removed a lot of brackets, all the key issues remained and in some cases the opposing proposals were even farther apart.

COP 21 art

Art in the Green Zone at COP 21.

THURSDAY, DEC. 10 — This was a pivotal day for the negotiations. After being postponed several times, a new text was finally issued just after 9 p.m. After a brief Paris Committee meeting, there was a two-hour break while countries and observers separately reviewed the new revision.

The new draft arrived in the proper order. Now the draft COP 21 decision goes first, and the Paris Agreement is attached as an annex. This sets up the final COP plenary on Saturday, which will adopt both as a single package.

The new Paris Agreement text is now 14 pages, and removes most of the brackets and many of the minor options. Remaining are key issues that will be in play until the hour, early Saturday morning, when the French presidency determines things are close enough to propose a final text.

Broadly speaking, as we knew for the last couple of years during the development of the Durban Platform and the run-up to Paris, this will be a deal reflecting the political state of play among the world’s nations at this time, and not fully encompassing the reality of climate change and the what the science is saying.

Within that context, our reaction to the Thursday text is fairly positive, and it is going to be the high water mark for this process. It is much better on the five-year cycle of stocktaking and new contributions (plans for mitigation, adaptation, etc.) from all countries, quite good on the process for providing finance to developing countries and language supporting a progressive increase post-2020 from the $100 billion per year level, a strong long-term climate goal, and moving forward with a coherent technology transfer program with social and environmental integrity.

The text is weaker on other aspects and particularly messy on loss and damage, where the U.S. “safe harbor” language ruling out any liability or compensation is now on the table and threatens to undermine the entire loss and damage section.

Our assessment of the Thursday text

What we like:

  • 1.5 degrees referenced in Article 2
  • Long-term goal of greenhouse gas emissions neutrality within the second half of the century guided by science
  • Five-year cycles of INDCs starting in 2020
  • Global stocktake for mitigation and finance every five years starting 2023
  • Floor of $100 billion climate finance with cycles of review

Parts we don’t love:

  • Just transition, human rights and other elements of the “Paris principles” only in Preamble, which is non-binding language — but at least they are there
  • Transparency and verification are still in flux with options

Ministers pulled another all-nighter to respond and try to influence the text behind closed doors. In these last hours we are pushing hard to retain the strong parts of the text and against the bad options that remain.

Informal very high level negotiations will continue throughout the day on Friday and a final text may now appear on Saturday morning, with a Paris Committee and plenary meeting probably around noon, but clearly the timeline is a moment by moment matter at this stage.

State of Play Dateline

[x] Sunday 29 ADP pre-plenary
[x] Monday 30 COP opening plenary – Leader Event
[x] Tuesday 1 COP/CMP joint plenary, SBI and SBSTA opening plenaries,
start of ADP contact group and spinoffs
[x] Wednesday 2 – Spin-Off Groups, ADP stocktaking
[x] Thursday 3 – Spin-Off Groups, ADP stocktaking
[x] Friday 4 – revised ADP text 8 a.m.
[x] Saturday 5 closing ADP plenary, COP plenary
[x] Monday 7 High Level Segment, Paris Committee
[x] Tuesday 8 High Level Segment, Paris Committee
[x] Wednesday 9, Paris Committee
[x] Thursday 10, Paris Committee
[ ] Friday 11, Paris Committee
[ ] Saturday 12 (extra time), closing COP plenary

Friday, December 11 – New text, Extreme Whether

As promised on Wednesday, new draft text for the agreement did come out yesterday, but not until 9 p.m. Thus, when Naomi Klein ended her event at Climate Action Zone last night by telling everyone to flood the streets on Saturday in defiance of French government plans to crack down on demonstrators, she was operating off the weak draft of the agreement released Wednesday. Yesterday’s version was a lot better — though climate activists are not cancelling their plans to flood the streets.

A series of equations related to the general circulation model of climate lines the train stop to Le Bourget at Gare du Nord in Paris.

A series of equations related to the general circulation model of climate lines the train stop to Le Bourget at Gare du Nord in Paris.

Lisa Friedman of E&E News has a good rundown of the new draft, which apparently involved a long speech to negotiators by Secretary of State John Kerry:

  • Ratcheting: This is the provision under which countries will agree to have their emissions targets reviewed and increased every five years. This has been something the United States and many environmental groups have insisted upon, while India and others have insisted that doing so must be voluntary for developing nations and come with the commitment of money. The current text includes some key elements the United States hopes to see, including potentially strong language ensuring that all countries move toward economywide emissions cuts. At the same time, it recognizes that “peaking will take longer for developing country parties.”
  • Transparency: This is another issue dear to the heart of the U.S. negotiating team. State Department Special Envoy for Climate Change Todd Stern has called it “vital” that developing countries be asked to report their progress toward their emissions targets with as much rigor and frequency as rich countries. Today’s text leaves that still very much up in the air. Deutz said the biggest resistance there comes from India and China, which, like many other developing countries, are wary of intervention from abroad. “It’s a historic issue for China and also some countries with a colonial past. They jealously guard their sovereignty and domestic politics,” he said — though he also noted, “developed countries don’t really like other nations poking around in their business, either,” but have become comfortable with the U.N. system for reviewing emissions cuts.
  • Temperature target: In a big win for island nations, the new text now calls for holding the global average temperature increase to “well below 2 degrees Celsius above pre-industrial levels and to pursue efforts to limit the temperature increase to 1.5C.” Scientists say it will be tremendously difficult to meet that goal, but the most vulnerable nations said the deal must at minimum recognize it as an aspiration. “With this, I would be able to go home and tell my people that our chance for survival is not lost,” Marshall Islands Foreign Minister Tony de Brum said.
  • Legally binding: In a surprising move, the final text makes no mention of either internationally binding emissions pledges or a demand to implement policies to see those targets through. That’s another win for the United States, which is trying to avoid the need for Senate approval. Rather than requiring that countries make good on their pledges, it states only that intended nationally determined contributions “shall be recorded in a public registry maintained by the secretariat.” European and American activists described the language as a major concession on the part of the European Union, which had sought binding commitments as a means of guaranteeing that promised reductions would happen.

Again negotiators stayed up most of the night to get to this draft of the agreement, and they are promising to release final text tomorrow (Saturday), which means they met at 5:30 a.m. today to start the final round of negotiations.  To think the fate of the world rests on the shoulders of people who have had practically no sleep for three days …

Today was my last full day in Paris.  Tomorrow I have to catch the shuttle at 7:15 a.m. to head to the airport for a 10:30 a.m. flight.  I was debating whether to use the day to go back to the Climate Action Zone or to Climate Generations, but the decision was made for me when the Sierra Club sent out a message that its final gathering would take place at 4 p.m. at Climate Generations.  I enjoyed a leisurely lunch while catching up on COP news and then headed over.

Final meeting of the Sierra Club delegation at Climate Generations.

Final meeting of the Sierra Club delegation at Climate Generations.

At the Sierra Club gathering, we heard from Fred Heutte and John Coequyt of the Federal and International Climate Campaign, who have been inside the negotiations the entire time.  They stressed that the Sierra Club really likes most of the agreement.  Points they like include five-year cycles for national commitments starting in 2020, goal of greenhouse gas neutrality in the second half of the century, a target of 1.5 degrees C referenced in Article 2, global stocktaking for mitigation and finance every five years starting in 2023, and a floor of $100 billion in climate financing per year with cycles of review.  Parts of the agreement they do not like are the just transition only in the preamble, not the body of the agreement, and transparency and verification still in flux.

Sierra Club members signed its COP21 sign.

Sierra Club members signed its COP21 sign.

Coequyt said the Sierra Club would be using positive messaging to talk about the agreement, even though other groups may use a negative frame.  The reason for this, he said, is that these groups have different audiences.  The Sierra Club’s audience is mainly Americans who we need to support this agreement.  Many aspects, especially the incorporation of the 1.5 C target, are above and beyond what anyone expected, though he noted that scientific integrity calls for us to clarify that humans will most likely overshoot 1.5 C (1.4 C is already locked in) and then have to bring it back down.  Other groups, especially those representing climate vulnerable populations, Coequyt said, would frame it negatively because they want to pressure countries of the world to do more.  This explanation really helped me understand why there are such wildly varying frames of the same agreement.

After the meeting, I headed with Glen Besa and Tyla Matteson to  the Fondacion des Etats-Unis to see a theatrical reading of a play called “Extreme Whether” by Karen Malpede, based in part on the work of climate scientists James Hansen and Jennifer Francis (though they are not in a relationship in real life).  Here’s the summary:

ExtremePosterExtreme Whether poses a bitter debate over the future of the planet but becomes a meditation on the sublime in nature. Written in a mix of prose and poetry, with invective, humor and a full musical score, Extreme Whether sets the battle over global warming within a single family as a challenge to the American family at this moment of ecological crisis.

 A major climate scientist, his colleague and lover, an Arctic scientist, wage fierce battle with his twin sister, a publicist for the energy industry, and her husband, a lobbyist, over scientific truth and an inherited wilderness estate. His wise-child daughter and her side-kick Uncle work to protect the natural world and sabotage its abusers.

Theatrical reading of Extreme Whether. My Place to B roommate is second from right.

Theatrical reading of Extreme Whether. My Place to B roommate is second from right.

As it happened, one of my roommates at Place to B was in this play.  I had heard about it while scouting out events to attend before my trip, and she told me that she was acting in a play here when she first checked in this week, but I didn’t put it together that this was the play she was in until today.  The reading was excellent even without the normal props and costumes in a full production.  If you ever have a chance to see this, go.  Here’s a good review.

After the play, I headed over to Piscine Pontoise for a swim.  My flight to Paris had been miserable in part because I hadn’t gotten in a workout before going, and I wanted the flight back to be easier.  Swimming meant that I had to skip a special appearance by Amy Goodman at Place to B.  I was hoping it would be recorded, and fortunately it was. You can join me in watching it here: