Saturday, June 18, 2016 – Westman Islands

Aerial view of Heimaey Island. Credit: Getty Images

Aerial view of Heimaey Island. Credit: Getty Images

Today was a visit to Vestmannaeyjar, or the Westman Islands, an archipelago of 15 small rocky islands formed by volcanoes off the southern coast of Iceland. Only one island — Heimaey, or Home Island – is populated, with about 4,000 people. Its main industry has been fishing, but tourism is taking over.

House buried under ash in 1973

House buried under ash in 1973

To get to Heimaey Island we took a 40-minute ferry from Landeyjahöfn. Before this harbor was built, people had to take a three-hour boat ride from Reykjavik. The harbor is next to where the glacial river Markarfljot flows into the ocean, and extensive work had to be done to keep the river from eroding away the sand plain. Now that people can visit the Westman Islands on a day trip, tourism has boomed.

After disembarking the ferry, we started to walk around town. A car is not needed because it’s so small, but there are some steep hills. The main story of Home Island revolves around the 1973 eruption of Eldfell volcano, a natural disaster that lasted for months, destroyed many homes, and caused many people to leave the island. We walked on a street where homes had been buried by lava and never dug out. Grass was growing where the roof should have been, with only part of the front door visible.

Volcano museum

Helgafell, an inactive volcano, overlooks the street leading to Eldheimar Volcano Museum

Helgafell, an inactive volcano, overlooks the street leading to Eldheimar Volcano Museum

The volcano eruption of 1973 is so important to the history of the area that Heimaey Island is known as the “Pompeii of the North.” People had no warning of the eruption, but they were lucky because the weather that day was bad so the fishing boats were still in the harbor. Most of the town’s inhabitants ran to the boats with whatever they could carry and went to the mainland. Many never returned.

The island’s experience during these events is memorialized at the Eldheimar Volcano Museum, which was our first stop. It was a long walk up a steep hill, and the weather was as bad the day we visited as it might have been the day the volcano erupted. I was carrying a heavy backpack walking in extreme wind and had forgotten my new scarf, so it took me a long time to get there. I was relieved when I finally did.

House at the center of Eldheimar Volcano Museum

House at the center of Eldheimar Volcano Museum

At the center of the museum is an actual house that had been buried by ash but dug out so visitors can see the effect the disaster had on everyday life. Behind the house an introductory movie was playing that depicted the days, weeks, and months after the volcano erupted, and all the frustrations and disagreements in trying to work with local and national authorities to slow the lava flow and clean up.

It reminded me a lot of all the frustrations and miscommunication around trying to clean up after Hurricane Katrina in the United States. This was a true natural disaster for the people, altering many of their lives forever. Many of them left for the mainland and never went back. Many of them spent months if not years putting their lives back together. Most people lost everything, if not from the volcano itself, then from efforts to get their belongings off the island and ruining them in the process.

House at the center of Eldheimar Volcano Museum

House at the center of Eldheimar Volcano Museum

One thing I looked for after witnessing events of Katrina is what happened to the animals. We know from Katrina that many people won’t evacuate during a disaster if they have to leave their pets or livestock behind. The museum display mentioned one person leaving with his cat and another with a parakeet. It also mentioned the town herding the cows into a fish factory but putting them down because there was nothing to feed them.

After Katrina, Congress passed the Pets Evacuation and Transportation Standards Act (PETS) Act requiring disaster rescues to allow people to bring their pets, but livestock is a different issue. I hope we can start figuring out how to care for livestock better in a disaster. For example, in the case of this volcano, perhaps the cows could have been transported to the mainland on a fishing boat and sold or housed temporarily on someone’s land.

Here are some highlights from the museum’s display:

January 23, 1973 – Eruption begins. Almost 5000 people were evacuated, with the sick and elderly first. People left with whatever they could carry – their cigarettes, a cat, a parakeet, their books. Children still wore pajamas. Boats were overcrowded with 50 to 400 passengers, but people still felt lucky because the fishing boats were still in the harbor.

House at the center of Eldheimar Volcano Museum

House at the center of Eldheimar Volcano Museum

Lava flowed from the volcano for months. For the first few weeks the disaster made international news. Flights went in and out of the small airport on the island. The town was like a war zone with fire and ash raining down. Locals went into rescue mode. They took people’s belongings to harbor to be loaded on boats and taken to Reykjavik. Cupboards were carried out with things still in them, even coffee still brewing. Perhaps as many items were destroyed during the evacuation as were actually rescued.

At one point toxic gas began coming out of the crater. One man died, as did birds and animals. Then a big chunk of lava broke off from the main volcano fissure and threatened the harbor. If lava destroyed the harbor, the island would become inhabitable. Town residents debated what to do. They consulted experts, one of whom told them to abandon the island. Finally they tried pumping sea water through fire hoses to slow down lava. They didn’t know if that would work, but it did help.

Today lava covers the west side of Heimaey Island

Today lava covers the west side of Heimaey Island

Finally on July 3, the eruption was over. It had lasted six months. Volunteers came from all over the world to help the island residents dig out and rebuild. 800,000 tons of ash and tephra were cleared out, with 1200 truckloads of ash carried out each day. The town cemetery was dug out by hand.

The disaster is still the largest emergency evacuation of people in Iceland’s history. Although most residents eventually returned, one-third never did because their homes had been buried. There was no warning at the time because we didn’t have the technology to monitor what is going on below earth’s crust. Now we can detect warning signs better and take action sooner.

Natural History Museum

Lunch was at a restaurant called Gott. They had an excellent menu with good vegetarian options including an African stew. After lunch we visited the Sæheimar Natural History Museum and Aquarium.

Toti the rescue puffin at Sæheimar Natural History Museum

Toti the rescue puffin at Sæheimar Natural History Museum

The museum was divided into one side for geology and one for birds and fish. The geology room displayed a lot of rocks and geodes. Most of the signage is in Icelandic. The rooms for birds and fish displayed a lot of stuffed and mounted animals. Then there was an entire room of aquariums, some quite large, featuring a huge variety of live fish and sea creatures.

The best thing was its rescue puffin, Toti. He was found at one-week old and brought to the museum. He is now five. He doesn’t fly but he does have a pool in the back that he can dive into. He also knows the difference between the people who work at the museum and the general public.

Swimming pool

Swimming pool on Heimaey Island. Photo: Guide to Iceland

Swimming pool on Heimaey Island. Photo: Guide to Iceland

Next came the funnest part of the day, a stop at the Westman Islands swimming pool. One reason my backpack was heavy is that I had brought my swim stuff, but it was worth it. This pool is named one of the top pools in Iceland, and we saw why. Water in the indoor lap pool is mixed with sea water making it easier to float and swim and a more natural experience. Outside were small pools, several hot tubs of various temperatures, and two pretty amazing water slides.

Iceland knows how to do swimming pools right. As a user of swimming pools across the United States, I have swum in more than my share of dirty and even disgusting pools. Americans simply will not shower before getting in the pool, and they will not wear swim caps or hair nets. As a result, many pools are full of a lot of dirt, body products such as lotion, deodorant, and powder, and floating hair both loose and in clumps. The university pool is better because there are fewer little kids peering in the pool, and people who swim laps tend to use swim caps. The Y pool is okay in the mornings but awful by afternoon.

Indoor pool on Heimaey Island. Credit: Swimming in Iceland

Indoor pool on Heimaey Island. Credit: Swimming in Iceland

In the United States, swimming facilities manage all this by dumping a bunch of chemicals into the water. This is terrible for your skin – I have to constantly use lotion and even then my skin still itches. In Iceland people are required to take warm soapy naked showers before getting into the pool, and this convention is enforced. This keeps the pool much cleaner and healthier with fewer chemicals.

The day we visited was windy and rainy, but even so we all took advantage of the outdoor hot tubs. The guys started on the water slides immediately with the rest of us watching, but I was itching to try it too. Finally I did it. First was the long triple white slide into a cooler pool – the slide was super fast and the cool water a shock to the system, but it was fun. Next was a shorter and slower red slide into a warmer pool, which was also plenty fast for me.

Water slides at Heimaey Island pool. Credit: Visit Vestmannaeyjar

Water slides at Heimaey Island pool. Credit: Visit Vestmannaeyjar

After a break to warm up in the 42C hot tub, I got my nerve up to try the largest slide, a combination tube and slide into the cool pool. I went up to the top with Lauren, the other older than average student in the group. Of course everyone was watching, so I let a couple of other people go after Lauren went. Finally I said a little prayer, made sure my legs were straight in front if of me with my toes pointed – and I was off. The tube was fast, and I barely remember going on the slide part before hitting the water. When I came up, people were cheering, and Lauren was waiting at the bottom. We hugged each other and pumped our fists. It was good to be 53 years old and still able to slide with the best of them.

Heimaey Island bay where Tobba worked with Keiko

Heimaey Island bay where Tobba worked with Keiko

After the slides, I got in several laps, then tried some diving in the indoor pool. Then we showered up and headed to the dock to catch the 6:30 p.m. ferry back. If anything the weather had gotten even worse, and the boat was rocking back and forth. Even so, I went with Tobba and Andy to the top deck. Tobba had spent much of the time she worked with Keiko in the bay at Heimaey Island, and pointed out to us where this had taken place. I got soaked before going inside and tried to keep from being seasick. Fortunately it was a short trip, and soon we were in the bus and headed back to Lax-a for the night.

Here are more photos that I took on the island including some of the very cute houses. Click on any photo to enlarge it:

 

Monday, June 13 – Hvalfjörður

hvalfjordur map4

We started early today at 7:30 a.m.  It was hard to get up.  I’ve been having migraines every morning, and this morning was no exception, but it was a little better than yesterday.  I felt somewhat better after breakfast.

Sea tale

Today was spent at Hvalfjörður, or “whale fjord,” which I did my report on (pdf).  On the way, we stopped at a gas station that had information about whaling in Iceland (pdf), which is centered in Hvalfjörð.  While there, our guide Tobba told us about her role in rehabilitating Keiko, the captive orca star of Free Willy.  Keiko was in bad health from being held for years at a substandard amusement park in Mexico, and probably would have died had he been captive another year.  After seeing Free Willy, children found out the actual orca was in captivity and put together a campaign to free him. A foundation funded by the movie studio provided money to rehabilitate Keiko, and he was flown on a military plane to Iceland because that’s where he had been captured years ago.

Tobba works with Keiko in this still from Keiko: The Untold Story.

Tobba works with Keiko in this still from Keiko: The Untold Story.

Tobba worked with Keiko for a few years, and her work was covered in the documentary Keiko: The Untold Story.  She saw to it he got exercise, got in better shape, and encouraged him to join the groups of wild killer whales.  She said that the first year he was scared and hid behind the boat, but the second year he got a little closer, and the third year he followed them. We know he interacted with them because he came back with bite marks on his side.  At one point Keiko was found swimming with children off the coast of Norway, with parents encouraging the kids.  The foundation had to take out a protective order to stop people from letting their kids swim with Keiko.

Keiko lived six years after being freed, which Tobba considers a great success.  She also talked about what a sea pen would look like — a sanctuary for whales freed from captivity. Hvalfjörður would be perfect — just seal off some of the fjord with a net.  In my opinion this needs to happen, so that parks around the world that have these animals in captivity have an option for how to retire them.  Without an option, places like SeaWorld will keep the whales in captivity even if they are no longer using them in shows.

On a sad note, Tobba also talked about Tillikum, the killer whale who killed his trainer and two others.  SeaWorld has been keeping him in a tiny tank, and he is very sick. Tobba said they are keeping him for his sperm. I hope sometime soon we can make the sea pen for orcas happen, and wonder what that would take: How much money, what kind of negotiations with the government of Iceland, how to get the theme parks to send whales there, how much it would cost to take care of them, how to get accreditation for an ocean based sanctuary, etc.

Whale processing station operated by Hvalur HF, in Hvalfjörður, Iceland. Photo: Arnaldur Halldorsson/Bloomberg

Whale processing station operated by Hvalur H/F, in Hvalfjörður, Iceland. Photo: Arnaldur Halldorsson/Bloomberg

I have visited a number of accredited animal sanctuaries across the United States, and every one had a strong founder who had a vision and made it happen. A sea pen is a little more complicated than a land-based sanctuary, but it is the next logical step for dolphins and whales. The whaling station at Hvalfjörð could be turned into a center for caring for whales retired from captivity, rather than killing whales.  Someone would have to buy it from Kristjan Loftsson, owner of Hvalfur H/F whaling company, and he might be reluctant to sell, but if whaling in Iceland continues to lose money, he might come around. I don’t know who would be the right person or people to lead the charge on making this happen, but this is what I would love to see for the future of Hvalfjörður.

After the talk from Tobba, we drove past the Hvalfur whaling station.  Last year students saw a whale being processed, but this year there was no activity.  I was really glad about that. It happened because Loftsson called off the whale hunt this year, and I hope he doesn’t go back. The whale hunt has become unprofitable. Icelanders don’t eat whale meat, so Hvalur has to sell it to Japan which has an oversupply. Many countries do not allow Icelandic ships carrying whale meat to dock, making it hard to transport. It is apparent that the rest of the world does not want Iceland to continue killing an endangered species just to have the meat wind up in dog food.

Glymur

Glymur

Glymur. Photo: World of Waterfalls

We then went to Glymur, the second-tallest waterfall in Iceland at 649 feet.  Glymur had long been considered the tallest waterfall until retreat of the Vatnajökull glacier in eastern Iceland revealed a slightly taller waterfall in 2011.  Glymur, whose name means “rumble” or “clash,” was a popular destination before the Hvalfjörður tunnel was built, as the road around the fjord runs nearby. Although fewer people visit the waterfall now, it is considered one of the most beautiful areas of Iceland.

Glymur is situated just inland from the end of Hvalfjörður. The waterfall is part of the river Botnsá, which originates from Hvalvatn lake to the east. Hvalvatn is a 4 km (2.5 mi) lake surrounded by four volcanic mountains. The river Botnsá flows out west before falling down Hvalfell mountain into a steep canyon, though which it travels before flowing into the fjord.

Crossing the river Botnsá to hike to Glymur. Photo: World of Waterfalls

Crossing the river Botnsá. Photo: World of Waterfalls

The two-hour hike to the top of Glymur waterfall is steep and strenuous but incredibly beautiful. The trail requires hikers to climb rocky hillsides with only a rope for balance, walk narrow pathways with terrifying dropoffs, crawl through caves, and use a narrow log to cross a raging river. But the reward is stunning beauty with a view of the entire waterfall and the canyon below.

I was not able to climb all they way to Glymur though the photos looked gorgeous.  If I had brought hiking poles I might have been able to do it, but the steep steps and trails were more than I could handle.  I did get to the point where I could look over the river and see people going across the log crossing and up the other side.  Tobba and Susie were very kind in walking with me before heading down the steps to the river.

I lay down on that plateau for awhile, had a snack, then headed back.  I had to get to a bathroom, so our bus driver Sigthor took me back to the gas station.  By then it was open, so I used the facilities and got a snack.  When we got back to Glymur, the four guys were done with the hike, and everyone else was not far behind.

Sheep farm

Yash makes some new friends at Bjarteyjarsandur farm.

Yash makes some new friends at Bjarteyjarsandur sheep farm.

We then headed to the Bjarteyjarsandur sheep farm, a popular destination for agrotourism. Bjarteyjarsandur is a working farm run by three families with sheep, horses, free-range hens, cats, dogs, and wool rabbits. Visitors can book a cottage or camp overnight while learning about the farm and participating in activities. Thousands of school children and tourists visit the farm each year.

The experience at Bjarteyjarsandur emphasizes environment and sustainability. The farm’s main product is lamb meat raised organically, but it also sells artisanal handicrafts. Reforestation and soil reclamation are practiced to minimize erosion. Waste is minimized through conservation, reuse and recycling.

Bunnies!

Bunnies!

We got to hold baby rabbits and bottle feed orphan lambs.  I talked to a Canadian girl who was staying at the farm for three weeks in exchange for helping with daily chores. I also bought a wool scarf to replace a favorite scarf I lost last year.

We then headed to a swimming pool that turned out to be closed, and ended up walking on a black sand beach.  We got a geology and fossil lesson from Dr. Slater and got the company of an area dog.  At one point the students found a live starfish on the beach.  We took a few photos, and then I was really happy to see the students put the starfish back into the water.  There was an incident earlier this year when tourists found a sick baby dolphin on the beach.  They passed him around so much for photos that he died. I didn’t want that to happen in our case, and it didn’t.

Finally we got to a swimming pool in Borgarnes.  Since I hadn’t gotten in a full hike earlier in the day, I went right for lap swimming.  I got in 30 laps before it was time to go, and felt much better afterwards.

Here are a few more photos from the day. Click on any image to enlarge it: