Farm Science Review 2016

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Farm Science Review (FSR) 2016 will be held Sept. 20-22 at the Molly Caren Agricultural Center near London, Ohio. Farm Science Review offers farmers and other visitors the opportunity to learn about the latest agricultural innovations from experts from the College of Food, Agricultural, and Environmental Sciences (CFAES) at The Ohio State University.

Farm Science Review offers visitors nearly 180 educational presentations and opportunities presented by educators, specialists and faculty from Ohio State University Extension and the Ohio Agricultural Research and Development Center (OARDC).  Annually FSR draws between 110,000 and 130,000 farmers, growers, producers and agricultural enthusiasts from across the U.S. and Canada and offers more than 4,000 product lines from 630 commercial exhibitors. To view the full schedule of events and presentations click here.

Advance tickets for the Farm Science Review are $7 at all OSU Extension county offices, many local agribusinesses and online (click here). Tickets are $10 at the gate. Children 5 and younger are admitted free. Hours are 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Sept. 20-21 and 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. Sept. 22.

If you plan to visit FSR for more than one day, there are many lodging options available in the London area. Some offer discounts for FSR attendance, be sure to mention it when making reservations. Golf carts will be permitted on the grounds for visitors with a documented disability or a doctor’s excuse. Privately owned carts are permitted on the grounds, but must be checked in with a $10 fee and rentals will be available from The Golf Cart Company. Call 1-800-589-8833 to make reservations or fill out the reservation form online.

Farm Science Review tickets are available until September 18th at the following Noble County locations:

Noble County OSU Extension OfficeL & H TractorAgland Co-opJones Feed, and M&M Feed and Supply

July Blooms

It always feels like July 4th is the peak of summer and when those hot summer days seem to kick off.  In fact the longest day of the year is the summer solstice which falls in late June, and the days gradually get shorter from there.  Many long day flowering plants will flower or “bolt” around this time.  One that I saw most recently was lettuce.  Lettuce is a long day plant that when exposed to darkness for periods of eleven hours or less will flower or bolt.  Unfortunately lettuce was never bred for its flower and the bolting causes chemical changes in the plant and it is accompanied by a bitter taste in the leaves.  I know that read kind of funny.  Even though the plant is called a “long day plant” the transition to flowering is dictated by the shortened period of darkness that comes with the longer days.  So that’s how the long day plants work, they need eleven hours of darkness or less.  So when the days become thirteen hours or longer these plants will start flowering due to the shortened dark periods.

Weeds are also tied to the day lengths and temperatures to transition to flower. There is a reason why allergies fall at certain times of the year.  As stated earlier some long day plants are flowering now.  One of these examples is the Giant Ragweed.

 

Giant Ragweed Giant Ragweed is a summer annual that can grow up to seven feet tall or greater.  Giant ragweed is a monoecious plant, much like corn.  Giant Ragweed produces separate male and female flowers on the same plant.  It flowers in racemes that hold a cluster of small flowers.  The male flowers that produce pollen are on top while the female flowers are located at the base of the raceme.  This is a strategy that many monoecious plants take.  Corn tassels are also the male flowers which are located on top to increase the chances of pollination.

 

Common Burdock is another weed that is flowering now. Common Burdock

The Burdock flower looks a lot like the thistle flower but the plant has a very large broad leaves at the base.  The leaves can grow to be almost 2 feet long and can be over a foot wide.  When this flower is fertilized it produces a bur type fruit that will attach to clothes and hair.

Wild carrot is also flowering at this time; this plant is sometimes known as Queen Anne’s lace.

Wild Carrot

The flowers are white and set up as an umbel.  An umbel is a cluster of flowers that have a single attachment point.  It produces a round flat cluster of flowers that are known to attract butterflies.  I have heard it being referred to as a “helicopter pad” for butterflies…

One of the best ways to identify plants is to do it during flowering times. When a plant flowers will give you a lot of information as to its identity, and many plant keys will require the flower to be utilized in its identification.

Ticked Off by Ticks?

 Of all the creepy, crawly, critters I have encountered, ticks are one of the few that really give me the heebie-jeebies. They are sneaky little things that live to feed on the blood of animals. They can transmit diseases including: Rocky Mountain spotted fever (RMSF), lyme disease, anaplasmosis, and ehrlichiosis. I would like to avoid all of those things and I’m sure you do as well. So, how do we do that?

Peak tick season lasts from mid-April to mid-July and ticks thrive in areas like forests and brush. They set up camp and wait to hitch a ride on a passing animal or pant leg. Then they explore their host for a nice place to latch on and feed. If you will be spending time in this habitat, do what you can to keep ticks from crawling into secluded places on your body. Wear long sleeves, tuck shirts into pants, tuck pants into socks, wear light colored clothes so you can spot a hitch hiking tick, and apply insect repellent. To repel ticks use a formulation that contains at least 25% DEET. Even if you do all of these things, you may still have a tick by the end of the day, so perform tick checks frequently. One of the most common places to find a tick is on the scalp or nape of the neck. Pets often pick up ticks too, so check them as well before coming inside.

If you find an attached tick, remove it promptly by grasping the body firmly (using tweezers is best), as close to your skin as possible, and use steady pressure to pull it straight out. If the mouthparts of the tick separate from the body, do not try to dig them out from your skin, this could lead to a secondary bacterial infection. Disinfect the area and apply a topical antibiotic. Preserve the tick in a sealed container of hand sanitizer, rubbing alcohol, or wrapped in an alcohol wipe, in case identification of the species is necessary later. If you experience a fever or flu-like symptoms following a tick bite, seek a doctor for consultation and take the preserved tick with you.

Ohio is home to four species of ticks, three of which are medically important: the American dog tick-vector of RMSF , the blacklegged tick (or deer tick)-vector of lyme disease, and the lone star tick-vector of ehrlichiosis. The brown dog tick is uncommon and not a vector of disease, but it is the only tick that can become established inside homes with dogs.

Don’t let ticks tick you off this summer! For more information about ticks check out Ohio State’s fact sheet on ticks at http://ohioline.osu.edu/factsheet/HYG-2073 or contact your Extension Office.

Be on the Lookout for Poison Hemlock

 Be on the Lookout for Poison Hemlock

Multiple farmers in Washington County have reported seeing hay and pasture fields being heavily infested with poison hemlock. Not only are the fields infested but the roadways in the county are littered with poison hemlock.  As the name states, this weed is poisonous in both its vegetative growth stages and when dry. This was the plant used to poison and execute the Greek philosopher Socrates after he was found guilty of corrupting the minds of young Athenians and for not believing in the gods of the state.  All parts of this plant are poisonous to humans and livestock so it is important to observe and remove any poison hemlock from hay or pasture fields.

Typically, grazing animals will avoid poison hemlock because of its unpalatable taste unless there is little other feed or forages available or when it’s consumed through hay. When consumed, poisoning symptoms appear rather quickly which includes: bloody feces, vomiting, paralysis, trembling, loss of coordination, pupil dilation, coma and eventually death from respiratory failure.

Since poison hemlock is a biennial (a plant that takes two years to grow from seed to fruition and die) it can be fairly easy to control. The first step in control is being able to recognize the plant.  During the first year, poison hemlock produces a basal rosette and in the second year, tall erect stems are formed and can reach heights of 10 to 12 feet in moist conditions.  The tall stems are hairless, purple-spotted (distinguishing feature – Fig. #1), ridged, and hollow between the nodes.  The leaves (Fig. #2) are dark glossy green, fern-like, triangular, and 3-4 times pinnately compound.  Poison hemlock flowers are small, white and found in umbrella-shaped clusters (Fig.#3 and Fig.#4).

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Fig.#1 – Purple spotted stem           Fig.#2 – Fern-like leaf

Poison Hemlock flower

Fig.#3 – White umbel-type flower head clusters

Poison Hemlock tall plant cropped

Fig.#4 – Flower head clusters

Sometimes poison hemlock often gets confused with wild carrot (a.k.a.: lace flower, Queen Anne’s lace) due to its fern-like leaves, a single taproot, and a white umbel-type flower head . However, wild carrot has hair along its slender stem and leaf bases while poison hemlock’s stem is smooth and purple-spotted.  Peak bloom for poison hemlock is in late May and early June, whereas wild carrot is just beginning to produce flowers. Wild carrot will only reach heights of 3 feet or less.  Also, poison hemlock is more branch-like than wild carrot (see fig. #5).

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Fig.#5 – Poison Hemlock (left) Wild Carrot (right) comparison

Once poison hemlock is successfully recognize and confirmed the next step is to take action to control it. Since poison hemlock is a biennial, it is best to control 1st-year plants by applying herbicides in the fall and for 2nd-year plants apply herbicides in the spring before the plant gets too large.  According to the Ohio State University Weed Control Guide Crossbow and Remedy Ultra has the best rating for controlling poison hemlock ( rating of 9) followed by Glyphosate (8), dicamba (8), Cimarron Max (8), and 2,4-D (7).  Remember these herbicides are either broadleaf killers (including legumes) or non-selective (kills both grasses and legumes).  For light infestations, spot treatment may be the preferred method.

Besides chemical control, mechanical control like hand-pulling or mowing is a viable option. Mowing can be used effectively to prevent weed seed production and over time will help reduce the weed seedbank in the soil.  Mow in the second year of the life-cycle before or just at the start of flowering to reduce vigor and to prevent seed set.  If hand pulling, it is important to remember to wear gloves.  Handling the plant can cause toxic reactions in humans.

For more information on poison hemlock or help with identifying it, please contact your local extension office.

17 year periodical Cicadas

In case you haven’t seen them yet,  

They’re Back!!!!

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Photographed by Marcus McCartney at the Washington County Extension office on the old oak tree in the front yard

For more information on the 17 yr. periodical cicadas contact your local extension office.

Also, click the link to read OSU’s factsheet about this natural phenomenon:

http://ohioline.osu.edu/factsheet/ENT-58

 

 

Lilyfest 2016

Bishop Educational Gardens will host the celebratory 25th year of Lilyfest this year on July 8th, 9th, and 10th.

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Celebrating 25 Years!

About

Lilyfest’s history dates back to 1992 when Bobbi and Bruce Bishop first hosted the event at their home in the Hocking Hills, Ohio. Bruce Bishop’s lily gardens were showcased and five artists displayed and marketed their works. Lilyfest has grown to over 60 artists, with live music throughout the three acres of beautifully designed gardens, showcasing ponds and a variety of unique garden sculptures. Look for plant sales and ask a master gardener your garden-related questions. Enjoy the Butterfly House and stroll through The Lost Viking Hoard Encampment. See you there!

Volunteers are needed!

Anyone who wishes to volunteer to make this festival happen CLICK HERE to access the volunteer page.

Master Gardener Volunteers and Ohio Certified Volunteer Naturalists are encouraged to staff their program booths to answer questions.

Buttercup in Bloom

There is a plant out there in the Ranunculaceae family known as buttercup.  Buttercup can come in many forms whether it is an annual, biennial, or even perennial it can be a major detriment to livestock in pasture fields.  I was in a May stroll a few days ago when I noticed a bright yellow flower with 2-3 lobed leaflets with deep clefts.

Buttercup 3buttercup 2

I did what any good Ag Educator would do and snagged up a good sample (roots, leaves and flowers) to key out on my front porch. On a side note, the best time to key a plant is when it is in bloom so that blooming time is available to you.

I identified it as Ranunculus caricetorum also known as the marsh buttercup.  This plant does well in low woods, swamps, marshes, and poorly drained areas like around water springs.  Buttercup is a toxic plant in pastured areas if animals ingest it fresh.

Buttercup grows aggressively in patches and has a corm base. Corms are essentially compressed bulb like bases that store a lot of food reserves and thus make this plant hard to get rid of through mowing alone.  I will say that mowing and preventing the plant from going to seed will help keep it from spreading however.

Buttercup 4

The toxin that this plant produces is called protoanemonin. This toxin is oil based and found in the fresh plant stem, it causes irritation and blistering of the skin, lining of the mouth and digestive tract.  Fortunately, if buttercup is baled and dried in hay the toxin becomes inert and will not irritate the livestock.  To livestock, the plant is bitter and animals will avoid eating it.  If the plant overtakes a field however it can become a problem if livestock do not have anything else to eat, especially during the summer months of slow forage growth.

Buttercup is sensitive to most broadleaf selective herbicides used in pastures such as 2,4-D and dicamba products. It also grows in clusters so spot-treatments are a good way to get it under control.

Wait to control pond algae

Over the past couple weeks, there have been several calls on how to control pond algae. Some have put in White Amur fish which help control vegetation, but these fish do not like to eat algae. Another option is to aerate the pond which may reduce algae and some will even rake the stuff out. A very common option is to use copper based products such as copper sulfate.  When used at the appropriate rate, it is a very safe product. However, now is the time fish are spawning and the fish eggs are very sensitive to copper and applying copper sulfate now will kill the fish eggs. If you wait until June, the spawning season should be over, and applying copper based products at recommended rates will not hurt the young fish.

OSU/WVU Extension Radio Jan-Feb 2016

OSU/WVU Extension Radio

Catch us on 1170 WWVA, Sunday mornings at 5:00 AM


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1/3/2016: 

Knowns and Unknowns of Oil and Gas from Landowner  Perspective

 

 1/24/2016: Marketing Beef Cattle

 

2/14/2016: Advantages of Crop Diversity in Pasture Fields

 

 2/21/2016: GMOs: Why They are Created and Labeling

 

2/28/2016: Bt and its Variable Uses and Agrobacterium  

Mole Control

This is the time of year I receive phone calls about moles causing problems. Over the past 27 years, few critters can stir such emotion as these little animals. When I started in Extension 27 years ago, the solution was fairly simple: put down an insecticide, kill the food source, and the moles would move away (maybe to your neighbors) to find a new food source. The problem was that the insecticide would kill all the insects, good and bad. The moles favorite food is grubs, but the most common food is earthworms. The older generation insecticides would kill both. Newer generation lawn insecticides are much safer to the environment and many are insect growth regulators targeted to work on grubs only and leave the earthworms alone.

If you are trying to control moles, these newer insecticides will not encourage moles to move away as well, but they are still very effective in controlling grubs which can damage lawns. So what can we do? When it comes to “home remedies”, the ones I have heard of simply will not work. I have heard of putting chewing gum or laxatives in the holes but we need to keep in mind that moles are carnivores and only feed on insects, so these will not work. I suppose some other remedies that I have heard could work somewhat as they could act as a repellent.

When these remedies are tried and in a period of time, the moles go away; was it the remedy or was it the weather? Right now the weather is warming up and the ground is saturated, so the moles are moving up near the surface. When it gets hot and drier, they will probably move down into the soil and I doubt if we will see much damage. In the fall, it will cool down, the ground will get wet and they will move back up, then when winter sets in, they will go back down deep. My “guess” is that it is probably the weather.

So what can we do? I see two options. First, don’t worry about it and they will go away in a month or so. Or if you do want to do something, there are traps that can be used. If you can find an active runway (the tunnel under the soil) and set the trap in, you should catch moles. Generally, the most active runway is one that goes from the nest to the feeding areas. The nest will usually be around the edge of the lawn, maybe in a grassy meadow or some woods with cover over the soil. In my old lawn, the nest was between the sidewalk and the wood house, where my wife had a flower bed. The runway would go under the sidewalk, then branch off where the moles would feed. If a trap could be set between the nesting area and where the runway branched off for feeding, that would be an excellent location for a trap. Just check it every day, and if you have not caught a mole, consider a new location. In my lawn, it wasn’t the moles that caused the most damage, it was my Golden Retriever trying to catch the mole and was always six inches behind!

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