Protect Your Skin before Fun in the Sun

From the time I could understand words to the time I left home it was drilled into my head to wear sunscreen. My mother would constantly say things like this as I was headed out the door somewhere: “Did you put on sunscreen?” “Do you have a hat?” “I know it’s hot, but you should wear long sleeves.” What would I say? “Yes mom. I know.”

You see, my mother was a stickler about protecting my skin because she was diagnosed with melanoma when she was 30.  She knew the worry and pain associated with being told she had skin cancer and she didn’t want that to happen to me. Moms will be moms right? Well, over the years her words really sunk in and would echo in my head, especially when I look in the mirror and find little freckles on my checks, forehead, and ears that weren’t there last year. Now that I am a mother, I find her words coming out of my mouth. “Make sure you put sunscreen on Beth.” “Does she have a hat?” “Make sure you put the umbrella up on her stroller.”

I am not a doctor. I have no association with healthcare or skin products. I am an agriculturalist. That is what keeps me alert about the dangers of sun exposure. Many of us spend our time working outside in the middle of the day when the sun is most intense. Sometimes it is unavoidable. Sometimes we can’t follow all the doctor’s recommendations for sun safety, but we should try our best. Why? Because skin cancer is the most common type of cancer there is and it can be prevented.

Check out this information published by OSU Extension from Dr. S. Dee Jepsen, Associate Professor and State Safety Leader, Agricultural Safety and Health, Food, Agricultural and Biological Engineering and Jeffery Suchy, Graduate Student and Lecturer, Food, Agricultural and Biological Engineering about sun exposure and protecting your skin:

 

Sun Exposure (Protect Your Skin)

Gardeners work long hours, often outside in the sun during peak exposure hours. Repeated exposure to the sun can cause skin damage and certain cancers. Skin damage can include dark spots, irregular pigmentation and wrinkles. Long-term exposure and repeated damage can lead to melanoma, a dangerous form of skin cancer. Damage typically occurs through progressive exposure over several years. Limiting exposure, dressing appropriately and applying sunscreen can reduce the chances of skin damage and disease.

Gardeners should take greater precautions against sun exposure if they:

  • Have a history of skin cancers.
  • Have a lot of freckles or moles.
  • Burn easily or have a fair complexion.
  • Have blonde or red hair.
  • Have blue, green or gray eyes.

A common misconception is that people with darker complexions are not at risk for skin cancers because they do not easily sunburn. While it is true that people with darker complexions are more naturally protected (melanin blocks UV rays) from damage than those with lighter complexions, everyone can experience skin damage from prolonged exposure. Prolonged exposure and repeated damage can lead to certain forms of skin cancer and, if left unchecked, can be deadly.

Facts About UV Rays

Although they affect the skin in different ways, both UVA and UVB rays have been linked to skin cancer.

Watching for Skin Cancer

Check any skin spot that spontaneously bleeds, changes color, or changes size. For anyone working outside in the sun, it is important to check the skin on a regular basis for visible signs of skin cancer. Look for these physical signs:

  • Asymmetrical spots.
  • Irregular borders.
  • Color variations.
  • Diameters bigger than the end of a pencil eraser.

For answers to questions about the possibility of skin cancer, consult a doctor.

In order to minimize the risk of skin damage or cancer, follow these basic recommendations:

  • Stay in the shade and avoid sun exposure between 10 am and 3 pm.
  • Schedule outdoor work for early mornings or later in the afternoon.
  • When operating a mower or other unprotected vehicle, consider adding a shade canopy to the driver’s seat.
  • Put up a collapsible tent if working outside in one location for an extended period of time.
  • If possible, perform equipment repairs and maintenance in a workshop rather than outside.

 

To conclude this article inspired by my mother, Mom you are right. Thanks for annoying me about sun safety. I will pass on the legacy to my daughter too. I hope you readers will do the same. Remember to love your life and love your body. It’s hard to have one without the other.

Snakes in the garden

It is not uncommon this time of year to encounter a slithery visitor in gardens, landscapes, and backyards. There are several species of snakes happy to live their lives in backyards, but one of the most common is the garter snake. Named for the 3 light stripes that run along the length of its black, brown, gray, or olive body, the garter snake is sometimes nicknamed the ‘garden’ snake because that is where unsuspecting gardeners often encounter them. While it can be startling to encounter a snake while weeding or planting, if their presence can be tolerated, garter snakes are doing the constant gardener a favor. They feed on worms, slugs, insects, and small mammals that may otherwise be feasting on garden plants and flowers.

Garter snakes are most active during the day and on sunny summer days are often found basking on rocks, sidewalks, decks, or patios. On hot days and when sleeping, they retreat to sheltered areas such as under foundations, rocks, logs, stumps, or porches. There are no repellents that effectively work to keep snakes away. The best approach, aside from sharing the garden with them, is to eliminate denning and sleeping sites (rock or log piles) and shoo them away from basking areas. They are rarely aggressive and habituate to humans easily. Some gardeners find relief using glue traps to capture and remove snakes from around the home.

The common watersnake, on the other hand, is not a snake that should be picked up without the expectation of a strong bite. The coloration of this snake, which prefers streams, creeks, and other bodies of water, can sometimes cause it to be mistaken for a northern copperhead, one of Ohio’s 3 venomous snakes (the other 2 are the timber rattlesnake and eastern massasauga rattlesnake rattlesnake).  The northern copperhead has a distinct triangular head that the watersnake lacks, and is not common among well-settled areas.  Because of the common watersnake’s preference for water, it is also often mistaken for a water moccasin, a venomous snake that does not occur in Ohio.

While it would be rare to encounter a venomous snake while gardening, never disturb or handle a snake without first determining the species and if it is venomous.  Other snakes found around the home are the midland and northern brown snake, eastern milksnake, and black rat snake (source, Marne Tichenell, OSU Extension Wildlife specialist).

Ticked Off by Ticks?

 Of all the creepy, crawly, critters I have encountered, ticks are one of the few that really give me the heebie-jeebies. They are sneaky little things that live to feed on the blood of animals. They can transmit diseases including: Rocky Mountain spotted fever (RMSF), lyme disease, anaplasmosis, and ehrlichiosis. I would like to avoid all of those things and I’m sure you do as well. So, how do we do that?

Peak tick season lasts from mid-April to mid-July and ticks thrive in areas like forests and brush. They set up camp and wait to hitch a ride on a passing animal or pant leg. Then they explore their host for a nice place to latch on and feed. If you will be spending time in this habitat, do what you can to keep ticks from crawling into secluded places on your body. Wear long sleeves, tuck shirts into pants, tuck pants into socks, wear light colored clothes so you can spot a hitch hiking tick, and apply insect repellent. To repel ticks use a formulation that contains at least 25% DEET. Even if you do all of these things, you may still have a tick by the end of the day, so perform tick checks frequently. One of the most common places to find a tick is on the scalp or nape of the neck. Pets often pick up ticks too, so check them as well before coming inside.

If you find an attached tick, remove it promptly by grasping the body firmly (using tweezers is best), as close to your skin as possible, and use steady pressure to pull it straight out. If the mouthparts of the tick separate from the body, do not try to dig them out from your skin, this could lead to a secondary bacterial infection. Disinfect the area and apply a topical antibiotic. Preserve the tick in a sealed container of hand sanitizer, rubbing alcohol, or wrapped in an alcohol wipe, in case identification of the species is necessary later. If you experience a fever or flu-like symptoms following a tick bite, seek a doctor for consultation and take the preserved tick with you.

Ohio is home to four species of ticks, three of which are medically important: the American dog tick-vector of RMSF , the blacklegged tick (or deer tick)-vector of lyme disease, and the lone star tick-vector of ehrlichiosis. The brown dog tick is uncommon and not a vector of disease, but it is the only tick that can become established inside homes with dogs.

Don’t let ticks tick you off this summer! For more information about ticks check out Ohio State’s fact sheet on ticks at http://ohioline.osu.edu/factsheet/HYG-2073 or contact your Extension Office.

Be on the Lookout for Poison Hemlock

 Be on the Lookout for Poison Hemlock

Multiple farmers in Washington County have reported seeing hay and pasture fields being heavily infested with poison hemlock. Not only are the fields infested but the roadways in the county are littered with poison hemlock.  As the name states, this weed is poisonous in both its vegetative growth stages and when dry. This was the plant used to poison and execute the Greek philosopher Socrates after he was found guilty of corrupting the minds of young Athenians and for not believing in the gods of the state.  All parts of this plant are poisonous to humans and livestock so it is important to observe and remove any poison hemlock from hay or pasture fields.

Typically, grazing animals will avoid poison hemlock because of its unpalatable taste unless there is little other feed or forages available or when it’s consumed through hay. When consumed, poisoning symptoms appear rather quickly which includes: bloody feces, vomiting, paralysis, trembling, loss of coordination, pupil dilation, coma and eventually death from respiratory failure.

Since poison hemlock is a biennial (a plant that takes two years to grow from seed to fruition and die) it can be fairly easy to control. The first step in control is being able to recognize the plant.  During the first year, poison hemlock produces a basal rosette and in the second year, tall erect stems are formed and can reach heights of 10 to 12 feet in moist conditions.  The tall stems are hairless, purple-spotted (distinguishing feature – Fig. #1), ridged, and hollow between the nodes.  The leaves (Fig. #2) are dark glossy green, fern-like, triangular, and 3-4 times pinnately compound.  Poison hemlock flowers are small, white and found in umbrella-shaped clusters (Fig.#3 and Fig.#4).

stem leaf

Fig.#1 – Purple spotted stem           Fig.#2 – Fern-like leaf

Poison Hemlock flower

Fig.#3 – White umbel-type flower head clusters

Poison Hemlock tall plant cropped

Fig.#4 – Flower head clusters

Sometimes poison hemlock often gets confused with wild carrot (a.k.a.: lace flower, Queen Anne’s lace) due to its fern-like leaves, a single taproot, and a white umbel-type flower head . However, wild carrot has hair along its slender stem and leaf bases while poison hemlock’s stem is smooth and purple-spotted.  Peak bloom for poison hemlock is in late May and early June, whereas wild carrot is just beginning to produce flowers. Wild carrot will only reach heights of 3 feet or less.  Also, poison hemlock is more branch-like than wild carrot (see fig. #5).

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Fig.#5 – Poison Hemlock (left) Wild Carrot (right) comparison

Once poison hemlock is successfully recognize and confirmed the next step is to take action to control it. Since poison hemlock is a biennial, it is best to control 1st-year plants by applying herbicides in the fall and for 2nd-year plants apply herbicides in the spring before the plant gets too large.  According to the Ohio State University Weed Control Guide Crossbow and Remedy Ultra has the best rating for controlling poison hemlock ( rating of 9) followed by Glyphosate (8), dicamba (8), Cimarron Max (8), and 2,4-D (7).  Remember these herbicides are either broadleaf killers (including legumes) or non-selective (kills both grasses and legumes).  For light infestations, spot treatment may be the preferred method.

Besides chemical control, mechanical control like hand-pulling or mowing is a viable option. Mowing can be used effectively to prevent weed seed production and over time will help reduce the weed seedbank in the soil.  Mow in the second year of the life-cycle before or just at the start of flowering to reduce vigor and to prevent seed set.  If hand pulling, it is important to remember to wear gloves.  Handling the plant can cause toxic reactions in humans.

For more information on poison hemlock or help with identifying it, please contact your local extension office.

17 year periodical Cicadas

In case you haven’t seen them yet,  

They’re Back!!!!

5-20-2016 023

Photographed by Marcus McCartney at the Washington County Extension office on the old oak tree in the front yard

For more information on the 17 yr. periodical cicadas contact your local extension office.

Also, click the link to read OSU’s factsheet about this natural phenomenon:

http://ohioline.osu.edu/factsheet/ENT-58

 

 

Zika Virus in Ohio

A topic that I have been getting questions on and is a currently making headlines globally is about the Zika virus.  I will attempt to provide as much information as possible as it relates to Zika virus here in Ohio.

Here is a map of the United States with laboratory-confirmed  Zika virus infections. (Data as of May 4th, 2016, Source – CDC)

zika-by-state-report-05-04-2016

Ohio as of 5/4/16 has 12 confirmed cases of Zika virus, none of which was contracted locally, all of which were contracted via travel.

Currently, per the CDC, Zika virus disease and Zika virus congenital infection are nationally notifiable conditions.

The Ohio State University experts have done a great job of keeping us Educators in the loop and pertinent on the progress of this disease.

Volume 20, Issue 2 of PEP-Talk:

Zika Virus Special issue.

This issue of PEP-talk summarizes information about the potential Zika virus threat to Ohioans that was presented at an April 26, 2016 conference sponsored by the Ohio Department of Health.  Credit to the authors:

Mary Ann Rose, Program Director;  Chrissy Kaminski, Program Coordinator;  Adam Ziadeh, Program Assistant; Chad Kramer, Program Assistant
SUMMARY:

 The Disease and Current Status in Ohio

 
The disease is primarily spread through the bite of an infected Aedes species mosquito. The illness is mild in most people, lasting for several days to a week with most common symptoms including one or more of these: fever, rash, joint pain, and conjunctivitis. As many as 80% of those infected do not realize they have the disease. However, if infected during pregnancy, the disease may cause microcephaly, a very serious birth defect, and more rarely, severe effects may occur in adults. Currently there is no treatment or vaccine for the virus. As of April 26, 2016 there were no local mosquito-transmitted cases of Zika in the continental U.S., but there had been approximately 380 travel-related cases, with 12 of those cases in Ohio. In addition to mosquito transmission, the virus can be transmitted by men to sexual partners, and by blood transfusion.
Full Printable PDF of research findings———>The Disease and Current Status in Ohio – ZIKA
Knowledge of the disease, mosquito types, and transmission are important.  Keep up on your repellants and make smart choices.  Contact me if you have any more questions about this disease.

Lilyfest 2016

Bishop Educational Gardens will host the celebratory 25th year of Lilyfest this year on July 8th, 9th, and 10th.

LILYFEST25TH_LOGO_150

Celebrating 25 Years!

About

Lilyfest’s history dates back to 1992 when Bobbi and Bruce Bishop first hosted the event at their home in the Hocking Hills, Ohio. Bruce Bishop’s lily gardens were showcased and five artists displayed and marketed their works. Lilyfest has grown to over 60 artists, with live music throughout the three acres of beautifully designed gardens, showcasing ponds and a variety of unique garden sculptures. Look for plant sales and ask a master gardener your garden-related questions. Enjoy the Butterfly House and stroll through The Lost Viking Hoard Encampment. See you there!

Volunteers are needed!

Anyone who wishes to volunteer to make this festival happen CLICK HERE to access the volunteer page.

Master Gardener Volunteers and Ohio Certified Volunteer Naturalists are encouraged to staff their program booths to answer questions.

Veterinary Feed Directive-FAQs

Effective January 1, 2017 livestock producers will need a Veterinary Feed Directive (VFD) to purchase feeds/supplements that contain “medically important” antibiotics (antibiotics used for both animal and human medicine), including tetracycline, penicillin, neomycin, and others. The implementation of this federal policy sparks many questions within the livestock community. Here are 10 common questions:

  1. What is a VFD? A VFD is a written statement from a veterinarian which authorizes the use of antibiotic feeds for a specific situation. While this sounds like a prescription, by definition it is not. The main difference is that a prescription must be filled by a pharmacist, while a VFD does not.
  2. Why do we need VFDs? Within the multitude of producers, there are a handful who have used these feeds as a crutch to support sub-par animal husbandry practices or to take advantage of the increased feed efficiency linked to the feed, rather than to treat, prevent, or cure disease. Over use of these antibiotics increases the development of antibiotic resistant bacteria.
  3. Can I stockpile feed before January 1, 2017? You should not. If you notice, the tags on these feeds already state that they should not be fed without a VFD and when 2017 begins the policy is effective whether the feed was purchased before or after January 1st. If misuse of the feeds is discovered, the producer will be reprimanded. In turn, if a retailer sells the product without a VFD from the buyer, both parties will be reprimanded.
  4. If I get a VFD and follow the rules, does it mean that when I finish the treatment regime I have to discard the leftovers and buy a new bag next time? No, you can keep the product until it expires, but you must have a valid VFD to feed it at any time. VFDs do expire.
  5. Can my vet renew my VFD? Yes.
  6. How long do I have to keep record of my VFD? You, your vet, and the retailer should all keep a copy on file for at least 2 years and it should be accessible upon demand from the FDA.
  7. What do I need to do before January 1st? Maintain your relationship with your veterinarian. If you do not already have a relationship with a vet, establish one.
  8. How much does a VFD cost? There will be cost associated with a VFD, although there is no set price. Cost will depend on the circumstance and your relationship with your veterinarian.
  9. Are there exceptions to obtaining VFDs based on the number of livestock in consideration? Whether you intend to offer these feeds or supplements to one animal or your whole herd, you still need a VFD which explains the scope of the situation.
  10. How can I learn more about VFDs? Visit http://www.fda.gov/AnimalVeterinary/DevelopmentApprovalProcess/ucm455413.htm or talk with your veterinarian.

The information in this article is adapted from the words of Dr. Justin Kiefer, DVM at The Ohio State University and announcements from the Food and Drug Administration.

Buttercup in Bloom

There is a plant out there in the Ranunculaceae family known as buttercup.  Buttercup can come in many forms whether it is an annual, biennial, or even perennial it can be a major detriment to livestock in pasture fields.  I was in a May stroll a few days ago when I noticed a bright yellow flower with 2-3 lobed leaflets with deep clefts.

Buttercup 3buttercup 2

I did what any good Ag Educator would do and snagged up a good sample (roots, leaves and flowers) to key out on my front porch. On a side note, the best time to key a plant is when it is in bloom so that blooming time is available to you.

I identified it as Ranunculus caricetorum also known as the marsh buttercup.  This plant does well in low woods, swamps, marshes, and poorly drained areas like around water springs.  Buttercup is a toxic plant in pastured areas if animals ingest it fresh.

Buttercup grows aggressively in patches and has a corm base. Corms are essentially compressed bulb like bases that store a lot of food reserves and thus make this plant hard to get rid of through mowing alone.  I will say that mowing and preventing the plant from going to seed will help keep it from spreading however.

Buttercup 4

The toxin that this plant produces is called protoanemonin. This toxin is oil based and found in the fresh plant stem, it causes irritation and blistering of the skin, lining of the mouth and digestive tract.  Fortunately, if buttercup is baled and dried in hay the toxin becomes inert and will not irritate the livestock.  To livestock, the plant is bitter and animals will avoid eating it.  If the plant overtakes a field however it can become a problem if livestock do not have anything else to eat, especially during the summer months of slow forage growth.

Buttercup is sensitive to most broadleaf selective herbicides used in pastures such as 2,4-D and dicamba products. It also grows in clusters so spot-treatments are a good way to get it under control.

Wait to control pond algae

Over the past couple weeks, there have been several calls on how to control pond algae. Some have put in White Amur fish which help control vegetation, but these fish do not like to eat algae. Another option is to aerate the pond which may reduce algae and some will even rake the stuff out. A very common option is to use copper based products such as copper sulfate.  When used at the appropriate rate, it is a very safe product. However, now is the time fish are spawning and the fish eggs are very sensitive to copper and applying copper sulfate now will kill the fish eggs. If you wait until June, the spawning season should be over, and applying copper based products at recommended rates will not hurt the young fish.