The Eagle Gazette

Give a plant. Seasonal plants like amaryllis, paperwhites, Christmas cacti and poinsettias are always appropriate, make beautiful living décor, and are easy hostess gifts. House plants are a trendy gift for all ages. Cut flowers are a thoughtful gift that can be enjoyed by those not ready to commit to plant care. Terrariums, orchids, succulent “wall art,” and indoor aquatic gardens make unique plants gifts.

Decorative pots for outdoor or indoor use are a playful and practical gift idea and come in a wide range of styles and price points. A hand-decorated planter makes a fun craft project for kids and a cute gift for grandparents. Pots should be functional as well so check for a drainage hole before purchasing. Don’t forget decorative pot huggers.

Bring the bling to the outdoors with yard ornaments. They can add humor, whimsy, or drama to indoor and outdoor gardens.

Invite nature “home for the holidays.” Bird houses, bee hotels, butterfly homes, bird baths and feeders of all sorts attract wildlife to outdoor spaces and enhance the environment.

Stuff the stockings! Seed packets make great stuffers. Gloves and pruning shears will also fit nicely. Anyone who works with soil will appreciate a stiff soap for cleanup, followed by a soothing salve or hand cream. Gardeners love practical gifts, too, like plant stakes, tags, and ties. And don’t forget about the birdseed and feeders for gardeners who love to watch the birds!

 

In 2023, the poinsettia industry in the U.S. is worth around $170 million. The U.S. has endorsed the poinsettia so much that in 2002 the House of Representatives officially declared Dec. 12 as Poinsettia Day, which in Latin America is also celebrated as a holiday honoring the Day of the Virgin of Guadalupe.

Quick facts

Poinsettias bloom when the days get shorter.

The colorful “flowers” of poinsettias are actually modified leaves called “bracts.”

Poinsettias grow well in moist soil and temperatures between 65 and 70 degrees F.

They can be grown outdoors during summer.

Poinsettias are not poisonous, but the sap may cause dermatitis.

Bracts are the leaves of poinsettia that change color depending on light exposure.

History:

Native to Mexico, poinsettias are in the Euphorbia family and are a popular holiday plant because of their colorful bracts (leaves). There is also a species that is used as a cut flower.

They are most commonly used for decorating during the winter holidays but are also attractive as green plants throughout the year.

Poinsettias change color in response to shorter winter days. Poinsettia flowers are made up of the bracts, which look like petals, and the tiny yellow flowers in the center.. The colorful bracts attract insects to the flowers and will drop after pollination.

Poinsettias are not harmful to animal or human health. But they should not be eaten. The sticky white sap can cause a skin rash, so gloves are recommended when working with these plants. Avoid contact with eyes and mouth.

Wash tools well after use as the sap can make tools sticky.

Poinsettias come in many colors

You can find poinsettias around the holidays to fit into almost any decorative scheme. They range from creamy white to pink to the traditional bright red. Some varieties have bracts with patterns in red and white, pink and white, or green and white and even bright orange.

Flower forms vary as well with some looking similar to a rose. You will also find unusually colored poinsettias such as blue or purple in garden centers. These are cream-colored varieties that are spray painted. They are sometimes sprinkled with glitter.

Poinsettia Needs

Light and temperature

Indoor light: Put in a south, east or west window where the plant will receive bright daylight.

Indoor temperatures of 65 to 70 degrees F are ideal.

Avoid placing poinsettias where the temperature fluctuates or may be drying, such as near cold drafts, heat ducts, fireplaces, fans, space heaters, etc.

Poinsettias will suffer damage if they are exposed to temperatures below 50 degrees F.

 

Watering

Keep soil moist.

Water plant when the soil surface feels dry to a light touch, or the pot feels lightweight when lifted. Never allow poinsettias to get so dry that they wilt.

Remove from decorative foil or outer pot before watering.

Make sure your plant is in a pot that drains freely.

Set the plant in a sink and water thoroughly, allowing the plant to drain completely.

Never allow poinsettia pots to sit in excess water. Constant wetness will rot plant roots.

Fertilizing

You do not need to fertilize your poinsettia during the holidays.

Start fertilizing your plant when you see new growth (new green leaves, stems, bracts).

Holiday Decorating With Fresh Greenery

One of the oldest winter holiday traditions is decorating the house with fresh greenery. Evergreens are used to represent everlasting life and hope for the return of spring.

Today, decorating for the holidays with fresh greenery is more prevalent than ever. Greenery such as cedar, ivy, pine, and holly add a fresh look and natural scent to homes.

Gathering Greenery

The first and often the best place to look for holiday greenery may be in a personal garden or landscape. Greenery gathered from a garden will be far fresher than any that can be purchased. A wider variety of unusual greenery may be available that would be difficult to find for purchase.

Remember that the plants are being pruned when gathering live greenery from the garden shrubs and trees. Consider carefully which branches to cut and which ones to leave. Distribute the cuts evenly around the plant in order to preserve its natural form.

Many different kinds of greenery can be used for holiday decorations. Pines, firs, and cedars are good to use for indoor decoration since they dry out slowly and hold their needles

best at warm interior temperatures. They may last for several weeks if properly treated and cared for. Hemlock, spruces, and most broadleaf evergreens will last longer if used outdoors.

Below are some suggested varieties to use in holiday decorating.

Boxwood: This small-leafed shrub is a longtime favorite for fine-textured wreaths and garlands. It has an aroma that is either loved or hated. Be sure of the family’s reaction before using it indoors.

Firs: All firs have a wonderful scent and good tolerance of hot, dry indoor conditions. The needles are short and flat; with excellent color and needle retention. Fraser fir wreaths and swags are commonly available from commercial sources.

Holly: This most traditional holiday green comes in several forms, both green and variegated. Female plants display bright red berries. Make sure that holly does not freeze after cutting, or the leaves and berries may blacken.

Junipers: Fragrant, short, green, or silver-blue foliage may be adorned with small blue berries. The needles are often sticky. Eastern red cedar is a native juniper and is readily available.

.Pine: There are many different types of pine to use in garlands and wreaths. Most are long-lasting with excellent needle retention.

Spruce: Wreaths are the main use for spruce greens. The branches are stiff with short, sharp needles. Blue spruce is especially attractive because of its color, and it holds its needles better than other spruce. Needle retention is poorer on spruce than on other conifer greens.

Keeping Greenery Fresh

Use clean, sharp cutters to cut branches and immediately put cut ends into water until ready to use. Crush the ends of woody stems to allow the cutting to take in more water.

Keep greenery out of sunlight.

Immerse greenery in water overnight before arranging, allowing the cuttings to absorb the maximum amount of moisture.  Allow the foliage to dry and spray it with an anti-transpirant, such as Wilt-Pruf, to help seal in moisture.

Decorating Safely

Dried evergreens can become flammable when in close contact with a heat source, such as a candle flame or fireplace. Make sure that any wreaths, roping, and garlands  brought indoors are as fresh as possible. Check needles by bending them. They should be flexible and not break. Avoid using greenery that is shedding needles or that has brown, dry tips.

Never place fresh greenery near heat sources, such as space heaters, heater vents, or sunny windows. Be careful of wreaths used on the front door if a glass outer door receives direct sunlight, as the reflective heat will burn the foliage. If decorative lights are used near green arrangements, make sure that they stay cool. If using holiday lights outside, confirm that they are rated for exterior use.

Check all decorations every couple of days for freshness. If the greenery is becoming dry, either replace or remove the dry portions. Discard dry greenery away from the house or garage to prevent a further fire hazards.

Safety for Children & Pets

Some popular plants used in holiday decorating can present poisoning hazards for small children or pets. Poisonous berries are found on hollies, yews, mistletoe, and Jerusalem cherry. The pearly white berries of mistletoe are particularly toxic. Keep all these plants out of the reach of children and curious pets.

Source:  Barbara H. Smith, Horticulture Senior Associate -Horticulture Crop Science, Clemson University

 

All good things must come to an end, including the holidays. But leftovers from your holiday celebrations can help stretch out your holiday cheer.

When the party is over and you’re cleaning up, it’s important to assess the safety of the foods that are leftover. If perishable foods (meat, poultry, cooked foods, cheese, cut up fruits and vegetables) were out for more than two hours, they should be discarded. If you kept hot foods hot (above 140°F), with chafing dishes, warming trays or slow cookers you will want to refrigerate any leftovers right away. Perishable foods that were not out for more than two hours, or that were kept on ice also can be saved. Prompt storage can prevent pathogenic bacteria that cause foodborne illness from growing in your leftovers. These bacteria have no odor and can’t be tasted or seen.

Leftovers should be stored in shallow pans or containers so that they cool down quickly. The quicker your leftovers cool, the less time they spend in the “Danger Zone” (40–140°F). Most leftovers will keep for about four days in your refrigerator. Use this Cold Storage Chart to keep track of foods in your refrigerator and freezer.

As you are putting food away, ask yourself if you can finish the leftovers in 4 days. If not, go ahead and package them for the freezer. Most cooked foods will keep their best quality for 2-4 months in the freezer. To protect your foods from the drying effects of the freezer, package them in heavy duty plastic containers, freezer bags, aluminum foil or freezer paper.

If you don’t know what to do with your leftovers, visit USDA’s What’s Cooking? USDA Mixing Bowl. You’ll find safe and healthy recipes to use up leftover meat, poultry and other foods.

Source: USDA

Management Strategies in Times of Drought

Some suggest during this year Southeastern Ohio experienced what might be the worst drought in our history. Regardless, where it may rank, few of this generation have the experience of managing through a time when feed resources were in such short supply for a commodity as valuable as beef cattle and other ruminant livestock.

 

That said, please plan to join us in the Fairfield County Ag Center on Monday, December 2 beginning at 7 p.m. when we will explore not only feed management strategies for times such as these, but also the drought disaster relief programs presently available to farmers in much of Ohio. Representatives from Ohio State University Extension, USDA/NRCS and the Farm Service Agency will discuss feed alternatives, feed management strategies, Federal and State drought “disaster” programs and funding opportunities for both feed and water.

Reservations are encouraged but not required by contacting OSU Extension in Fairfield County (740-653-5419) or simply following this link: go.osu.edu/feedmanagement

 

Boxelder Bugs (Boisea trivittata, family Rhopalidae) have long been the “poster child” for insects that invade homes and other structures in the fall. Thanks to a tip When the boxelder bugs begin to congregate usually on the trunk of a boxelder (Acer negundo, family Sapindaceae),  it is  the first sign that the bugs are planning a little breaking and entering.

Boxelder bugs range in size from 1/2″ – 3/4″ long. They are narrow-shaped, flat-backed, and dark gray or dark brownish-black. The bugs have three highly visible orangish-red stripes running lengthwise on the pronotum, the area behind the head; “trivittata” is Latin for “three-striped”.

The bugs are seed-feeders and are so-named because of a strong association with their namesake host, but only female trees. Boxelder is dioecious (= “two houses”) which means individual trees either produce male or female flowers, but not both. Research has shown that boxelder bugs will only gather in large numbers on female boxelder trees, but not male trees.

However, adults and nymphs will commonly use their piercing-sucking mouthparts to draw juices from the seeds of other trees in the Acer genus as well as ash (Fraxinus spp.). They have also been observed feeding on alder, apple, buckeye, cactus, geranium, grape, honeysuckle, lilac, linden, oak, peach, plum, spirea, strawberry, and tulip.

Boxelder bugs have one generation in colder climates, and two generations in warmer climates. Regardless, they end the season as a mix of adults and immatures (= nymphs). However, only the adults can make it through the winter which presents a challenge to the nymphs.

At this time of the year, only late instar nymphs have a chance to make it to adulthood and thus survive the winter. To hasten their development by acquiring a quick energy boost, late-instar nymphs commonly attack and suck the life out of earlier instar nymphs. It’s a true Halloween horror story!

Boxelder bug aggregations on tree trunks occur during cold snaps in early fall. They collect on the west side of the trunks to maximize exposure to warming by solar radiation.

However, if a cold snap is followed by a warm spell, the adult bugs use their wings to disperse in search of suitable overwintering sites which may include homes or other structures. Of course, the wingless nymphs are left behind to suffer their freezing fate.

More notorious fall home invaders include Multicolored Asian Lady Beetles (Harmonia axyridis, family Coccinellidae) and Brown Marmorated Stink Bugs (Halyomorpha halys, family Pentatomidae). Both of these non-natives have a deserved reputation for invading homes in huge numbers. Although they’ve been somewhat quiet in recent years, there’s no predicting when or where we will see outbreaks which are usually highly localized.

On a side note, the predatory behavior of multicolored Asian lady beetles has helped them to redeem their reputation to some degree. Adults as well as the alligator-like larvae

are commonly observed consuming aphids and other plant-sucking insects.

The stink bugs, on the other hand, remain villainous. Outdoors, they damage fruit and vegetables. Indoors, they buzz around to scare the bejeebers out of homeowners, children, pets, etc.

Why Do They Break Into Homes?

Insects that invade homes and other structures in the fall do not intend to make their way into heated interior spaces. In fact, they are doomed if this happens.

ts are “cold-blooded” (exothermic) meaning the speed of their metabolism is mostly governed by ambient temperature. The higher the temperature, the faster their metabolism, and the faster they “burn” fat. Yes, insects have fat, but it’s confined within their hard exoskeletons, so they don’t suffer embarrassing expanding waistlines.

We, humans  are endotherms (warm-blooded) meaning we can generate internal heat to maintain a constant internal temperature. Of course, an exothermic physiology has some benefits. Imagine losing weight just by laying out on a sunny beach.

The home invaders feed voraciously in late summer to accumulate fat. They then seek sheltered locations in the fall where cool temperatures slow their metabolism during the winter so they will not exhaust their stored fat reserves. This survival strategy keeps them alive since there is nothing for them to eat throughout the winter.

Home-invading insects are attracted to the solar heat radiating from southern or western-facing roofs and outside walls and the warmth radiating from within. This can lead them into attics, exterior wall voids, and spaces around door jams and window frames. These all make perfect overwintering sites, and the insects stand a good chance of surviving the winter as long as they remain in these cool, protected locations.

However, home-invading insects may take their invasion a step too far. They occasionally continue to follow the heat gradient all the way into the heated spaces. This is disastrous for the insects and no bargain for the homeowner.

The high indoor temperatures cause the insects to burn through their fat reserves and eventually starve to death. The homeowners may burn through fat chasing the insects, but they can hit the refrigerator. The starving boxelder bugs, stink bugs, lady beetles, and other accidental home invaders do not go gentle into that good night. They commonly take flight to buzz-bomb astonished home occupants.

The Best Defense is a Good Offense

Homeowners can purchase or construct effective brown marmorated stink bug traps; however, this should be viewed as “Plan B.” There are no traps for boxelder bugs or, lady beetles. “Plan A” should be sealing openings that allow the invaders to invade in the first place.

An ounce of calking is worth a pound of bugs. Large openings created by the loss of old caulking around window frames or door jams provide easy access into homes. Such openings should be sealed using a good quality flexible caulk or insulating foam sealant for large openings.

Poorly attached home siding and rips in window screens also provide an open invitation to the bugs. The same is true of worn-out exterior door sweeps including doors leading into attached garages; they may as well have an “enter here” sign hanging on them.

Homeowners should also inspect their attic to look for unprotected vents, such as bathroom and kitchen vents, or unscreened attic vents. While in the attic, look for openings around soffits. Both lady beetles and stink bugs commonly crawl upwards when they land on outside walls; gaps created by loose-fitting soffits are gateways into home attics.

Of course, many of these preventative measures to keep home invaders out will also keep heated and air-conditioned air in. The costs in time and materials can be recovered through reduced home energy bills.

Handle with Care

Insects that find their way into a home should be dealt with carefully. Swatting or otherwise smashing these insects can cause more damage than leaving them alone since fluids inside their bodies can leave permanent stains on furniture, carpets, and walls.

Also, smashing the home invaders can release a lingering eau de bug. Stink bugs are called stink bugs for a reason. Lady beetles also have stinky blood, and boxelder bugs are armed with cloying, foul-smelling defense chemicals.

Small numbers of home invaders can be scooped up and discarded by constructing a simple but effective “bug collector” using a plastic pint water bottle as pictured below. Large numbers of insects can be quickly dispatched by placing a small amount of soapy water in the bottom of the bug collector.

Vacuum cleaners present their own sets of risks. A “direct-fan” type of vacuum cleaner should never be used unless modified. Passing the refuse through an impeller will create a horrifying bug-blender!

Source: Joe Boggs, OSU Extension

Last week at the Fairfield County Fair, I had the unique opportunity to host some international journalists from Ukraine. They were guests of the U.S. Department of State as part of a special program to foster relations with foreign press. Their mission, while they toured Ohio agricultural sites, was to capture some best practices related to farming and research, with a special focus on youth. They want to share these ideas with their homeland to inspire Ukrainian villages to engage their youth. They were fascinated by the 4-H youth exhibits and livestock at our county fair.

They also shared their heart-wrenching story, how Aliona fled to the U.S. with their two children when Ukraine was invaded, while Ruslan stayed in Ukraine to farm their crops. While in the U.S., their children have endured bullying in school due to their heritage and war status in their home country. Amidst their own personal and national turmoil, they continue to travel when possible and share stories to inspire their country.

Their visit had a profound impact on me, reflecting on all they have endured. How can we stop this bullying and spread peace? Continue reading →

When the leaves on the trees start to change color and drop to the ground, it’s a sign that fall is here. It’s also a sign that it’s time to plant bulbs so you can have a bountiful splash of color to mark the start of spring.

The best time to plant bulbs is through October because the bulbs – especially daffodils — need time to root well before the ground freezes. During the summer, bulbs are in a dormant stage because the weather is warm. They need low temperatures to break them out of their dormancy and start growing.

When buying those bulbs look for bulbs that are dry and hard and try to buy the largest ones. The larger the bulb, the larger the flower.  When deciding where to plant your bulbs, make sure there will be adequate sunlight in the spring. Bulbs can be planted under deciduous trees, which will provide only partial shade in the spring. Be aware that planting bulbs in a southern location next to a foundation could induce the bulbs to emerge too early, resulting in freezing injury.

When planting your bulbs, follow the guide on the planting chart. The rule of thumb is a depth four times the height of the bulb between the soil surface and the tip of the bulb,. For example, hyacinths should be six inches or deeper and daffodils, six to eight inches deep. Large bulbs six inches apart and two inches apart for smaller bulbs.

To grow the best looking plants, add a complete fertilizer such as 5-10-10 to the soil at a rate of three pounds per 100 square feet.  Loosen the soil under the bulb and make sure there is plenty of drainage so the bulbs won’t be sitting in water. If the soil is a heavy clay, mix it with one-third to one-half organic material such as peat moss or compost.

Plant the bulbs with the growing tip up, or the pointy end up, think of a triangle when planting bulbs. For a greater effect, plant in clumps or irregular masses rather than singly.

Once planted, replace half the depth of soil, then water. Finish covering with soil and water again. If fall weather is dry, water as needed to promote good root development.

Mulch may be placed over newly planted areas once the soil has frozen to a depth of one to two inches. This keeps soil frozen and prevents alternate freezing and thawing, which may cause the soil to heave and injure newly planted bulbs.

Some bulbs are bothered by rodents, particularly squirrels, chipmunks, and mice. They dig and feed on (or store) tulip, Crocus and Lily. Daffodils and hyacinths are not bothered. If rodents are a problem, and only a few bulbs are to be planted, consider enclosing them in hardware cloth boxes (use 1/2 inch mesh), or lay a sheet of hardware cloth over the planted area before replacing soil. Bulbs may also be dipped in Ropel®, a taste repellent, before planting to repel rodents. In spring, rabbits feed on tulip and lily foliage. Chicken-wire enclosures or some of the taste repellents work fairly well.

 

The Feeder Creek Vet Show Arena    (North Side of the Grounds)

Market Swine Show on Monday, October 7 beginning at 8:30 a.m.

Market Beef show takes over the arena on Tuesday, October 8  at 8:00 a.m.

Junior Fair Meat/Market Goat Show begins 8:00 a.m. with the Market Lamb Show following at 12:00 noon.

The Guys and Gal Sheep Lead Competition completes the day in the Feeder Creek Show Arena at 6:30 p.m.

Ed Sands Farm Bureau Building  (North Side of the Grounds) 

Monday, October 7  – Junior Fair Pygmy Goat Show begins at 11:00 a.m.

Tuesday, October 8  – Junior Fair Dairy Goat Show begins at 9:00 am.

Tuesday, October 8 – The Alpaca show will begin at 1:00 p.m.

Open Horse Arena 

Wednesday, October 9 at 8:30 a.m. Junior Fair Horse Show – Hunt Seat

Thursday, October 10 at 10:00 a.m. Junior Fair Horse Show – Western/Ranch

Friday, October 11 at 1:00 p.m. Junior Fair Horse Show  – Contesting

Historic Round Cattle Barn  (South Side of the Grounds)

Tuesday, October 8 the Jr. Fair Dairy Beef Show begins at 4 p.m.

The Open class and Jr. Fair Dairy Cattle Show begins at 10 am on Wednesday, October 9.

#50 Show Arena (South Side of the Grounds)

Monday, October  7 at 10 am  Junior Fair Poultry Show  with the Turkey Show followed by the Market and Breeding Poultry Show.

Wednesday, October 9 at 8:30 a.m. the Market Rabbit Show begins followed by Rabbit Showmanship.

The breeding rabbit show begins at 11:00 a.m. on Thursday, October 10 in the #50 Show Arena.

Be sure to come out and support the Junior Fair exhibitors in one of the five show arena locations at the 2024 Fairfield County Fair.