Culture

“Junkyard of Stuff We Don’t Know Where to Put”

London was incredible. Despite a lot of uncertainty with the COVID-19 pandemic, the trip was a major success, eye-opening, and very engaging. As a major city within Europe, it is definitely a capital of the world, not just of England. It was a trip filled with new experiences. I was able to do things I never thought I would. We were able to pack so much into one week, but it still wasn’t enough time to see it all. Some of my favorite experiences include the view from the Shard, Westminster Abbey, St. Paul’s Cathedral, Kew Gardens, Stonehenge, Transport Museum, and seeing Mamma Mia at a local theatre. This list doesn’t even scratch the surface of all the things we got to see and do. Even though there are similarities between the United Kingdom and the United States, there is so much history and culture that we got to immerse in that was different. One of the most mind-blowing things was seeing the tomb of Elizabeth and Mary. So much history surrounds Londoners on a daily basis, it almost doesn’t seem real. For example, seeing the Roman wall was insane and it didn’t seem fathomable that something so old still existed. I was extremely impressed with how history is so fluidly involved in everyday life there. Another thing that amazed me was the Underground system. Public transportation is generally underdeveloped within the United States, especially when compared to other countries in the world. Although it was dirty, to be able to traverse anywhere in the city with the tap of a card was freeing, and I could not help but wish we had such a system here. The United States may have developed much differently than London, but it is my hope that an efficient and effective public transportation system can be instituted. It was interesting to see how London sprawls and maintains its level of density within the context of historical landmarks and other major nodes. Lastly, I would be remiss not to mention that the people really made the trip special. Whether it was Casey making a guard laugh on duty, Jeff explaining why Disney is not nearly as good as Universal, or Blake’s general pursuit of ice cream, getting to know everyone on the trip and exploring the city together was special. Traveling to London has been one of the best experiences of my life, and I cannot wait to make my way back to the city someday—ideally not during a global pandemic.

Also, one of my favorite quotes: (in reference to Westminster Abbey) “A junkyard of stuff we don’t know where to put” -Blue Badge Guide

 

Palm House at Kew Gardens

Some of the disused stations along Tube lines

View from the Shard

Visiting Tate and Shopping

On the free day in London, Tyler, Lili, and I took the town alone and navigated ourselves throughout the city through the tube and with maps. We went to Tate Modern on our first stop because we did not have much time there in the first place. I could spend hours upon hours at the museums. I love looking at each and every piece when I visit. We got to explore a lot of art that we did not get to see in the first place including art and society. This area was all artists who had more radical ideas about art and used art to depict provoking thoughts. We also got to see a Mara Naar part of the exhibit that was free. I really enjoyed her work because of the simplicity of it and I also recently got a tattoo that looks similar to the one of her drawings. We also went through the Soho area to look into the street wear shops. I found each of the stores really intriguing because of the way they were all designed and set up. I also found them really interesting because something that they do not do in America is blast music in their stores and it creates a really interesting vibe that I appreciated. I also appreciated the fashion in London and how nice everyone looked. 

 

 

Me at Tate Modern on Fountain

One of the Streetwear displays

Another display of the streetwear

A Take On Stonehenge

Our visit to Stonehenge was one thing that I looked forward to the most out of everything we had planned on this trip. When we arrived at the parking lot, the stones were nowhere in site, but a short bus trip down the road revealed the stones slowly as we went over the hill. It was a windy and rainy day, but that did not stop me from taking in the amazing view of the stones that stood in front of me. In my sketch I wanted to capture the massing of the stones and how they relate to each other in size and shape. I also wanted to capture the different shades of darkness, which included shadows and natural darkening of the stones. Luckily I had a lot of time on the site and I was able to capture most of the details with out having to use a picture. Finishing the sketch on site meant I had to sit in the rain to get it done, but it was worth it!

Henry Moore’s Mother and Child in St. Paul’s Cathedral

One of the most interesting pieces I found in St. Paul’s Cathedral was Henry Moore’s Mother and Child: Hood. Moore’s semi-abstract sculptures helped create a very specific form of modernism in the United Kingdom.

Completed in 1983 out of travertine marble, Moore’s take on Michelangelo’s Pieta is able to convey the grieving Mary after the crucifixion of Jesus Christ using minimal detail. The characteristic disparity in size between the Madonna and Christ becomes further exaggerated through the abstraction of form. The way Moore nests the two figures strengthens the maternal relationship by creating an almost wombic cradle.

Seeing more contemporary works of art in such historical spaces highlights the interconnectedness of their simultaneous presence in the city.

Henry Moore’s Mother and Child

A Rocky Situation

Sketch of 3 sarsen stones.

On our visit outside of the city, Stonehenge popped up almost at random out of the rolling green hills as a ruin made of a pile of rocks. Before coming here it seemed so much a mystical site that tv and historians tell an impossible tale, however upon viewing It for myself, I realize that though the stones are huge, it seems possible with enough man power. The organization seems reasonable for a time when people wanted to congregate around something as powerful at the stars and the sun. Being able to understand formations like this as a man made form begins to dissolve the improbability of some of these structures we aren’t used to seeing outside of a history book. The complex is quite big, but at a small enough scale that it is plausible. Surely not as big as the pyramids, so I can more clearly confirm that aliens did not create Stonehenge.

Window into the old Monarchy: The Tower of London

Today I am thankful that our group was fortunate enough to have received a tour of Westminster Abbey. From seeing the tombs of Queens Mary I and Elizabeth I, it was only a natural segue that for the museum we were able to venture to on our own was the Tower of London. Upon entering the establishment one immediately spots “Traitor’s Gate”, which Queen Elizabeth I herself passed through while under arrest by her half-sister Mary I. This entry point from the river comes to meet the first set of the Tower’s defenses as its path joins that of the pedestrian to being to pass through the multiple layers of inner fortifications of the Tower. This dense layering most definitely serves its purpose of intimidation upon the pedestrian even today as it proved to be an impenetrable labyrinth of walls we most certainly needed to be guided through. Upon entry into the main center of the Tower, it was incredible to enter the White Tower itself; serving as a fortress, palace, armory, etc. it was well apparent its significance at the literal and contextual core of London’s history. Across from the White Tower the Crown Jewels are housed. To be allowed to view these left me speechless. The items all showcase the deep, rich history of the United Kingdom as one of the world’s foremost empires in history from the sheer grandeur and global utilization of materials for the jewels themselves. I am most thankful to have been able to see them. On a more solemn note however, from the entrance of the Crown Jewels display one is able to gaze upon Tower Green. It is here numerous history shaping, albeit gruesome events took place. For example, Lady Jane Grey, Queen of 9 days before Mary I usurped her on throne, was beheaded here at just age 16; as well as Queen Katherine Howard, Henry VIII’s fifth wife, just at age 19. Most infamously though, it is also the location of Queen Anne Boleyn’s execution; mother of Queen Elizabeth I and the catalyst for England’s split from the Pope. Anne is buried underneath the floor of the adjacent chapel of St. Peter ad Vincula, and to witness the seemingly nondescript tomb of one of the most controversial women in all of history, was well worth the overall ticket price and free choice to visit the Tower of London today in my opinion.

Anne Boleyn’s floor grave marker in chapel

The White Tower

Interior Chapel of St. John

Rescued or Taken Hostage?

I think that the question of whether Britain should return the Elgin marbles definitely can not be answered with a simple yes or no, otherwise I wouldn’t be writhing this blog. I feel that back when Britain “rescued” the marbles and put them on display in 1817, they were a much more civilized and developed country than Athens, Greece was. Therefore this raises the question of was Athen’s capable of properly housing, caring for, and protecting the Elgin Marbles. Who knows, if Britain never moved the marbles, they might not even exist today. However, since we cannot change the past, we must look at the fact that they do exist today, and are a focal point of Athenian and Greek culture. It would be similar to taking the Declaration of Independence from The United States. Therefore, I do feel that now Britain should return the stones or at least have some way of Athens buying or trading back for them.

View from the center of the exhibit

Statues from the frieze

War horse carved depiction

The Peculiar Mixing of the New and the Old

As the days have gone by I’ve come to enjoy London more and more. Many things are different here than in the U.S., but perhaps none as much as the mixing of past and present. In U.S., sites of deep historical significance are few and far between. The ones that do exist are set almost on a stage, in their own environment, removed from the modern world in a way. That is not the case here. There are so many historical sites, too many to see in just 10 days. All of these sites are part of the fabric of London; they sit on the street like every other building. I first noticed this when I saw parts of the old Roman walls. They were just in a little green space, in the shadow of several buildings. I thought it was incredible that these pieces of ancient architecture were just sitting here, free for anyone to climb on, paint on, or just ignore. Although other sites I visited were held in a higher sense of reverence, they were still just sitting there, right next to the sidewalk. As I headed to St. Paul’s Cathedral, I couldn’t help but feel that it was somewhat peculiar to have this grand cathedral on one side of the street and a McDonald’s on the other. Even Westminster Abbey, which is somewhat more isolated as it is next to Parliament, sat right next to the street, with people just driving and walking past trying to get to somewhere else. It just seems wild to me that these buildings and sites of huge cultural and historical significance are framed by, or in the shadow of, apartments, cafes, and commercial businesses. Even when I went to Stonehenge, I couldn’t help but notice that it was not surrounded by a park, but rather farmland, with sheep grazing just a plot of land away. Maybe because Britain, and London more specifically, has so many historic sites, that it would be impossible to give them all the “proper” setting, so instead they are just treated like every other building. Either way, at least I can observe St. Paul’s while eating a Big Mac.

Parts of the Roman walls, just kind of sitting there, seemingly forgotten.

Stonehenge framing a highway

Westminster Abbey siting right behind a flow of traffic

Stonehenge Shenanigans

Quick sketch of Stonehenge

Our visit to Stonehenge at the end of a long day was unfortunately pretty rainy and windy. I was able to get a rough outline while on the site, and then I was able to add details and color later on from a photo. My goal with this sketch was to capture the texture and shadows of the stones, which I think I accomplished pretty well. I do wish I had more time on site to complete the drawing instead of referencing a photo. I’m glad I chose to use color for this sketch, I think it adds some more description and depth.

A City Never Forgets

 

Wren’s Desire

London. Over 2000 years of urban history winding along the Thames. Everywhere one looks there is a constant reminder of the past among the present. Roman masonry across the street from Richard Rogers’ high-tech expressionism. World Heritage Sites among ostentatious skyscrapers. Royal palaces in the foreground of world financial centers. Olympic villages on top of reclaimed brown fields.

As London has evolved, it’s kept much of its previous DNA, even if as appendices in  many cases. As the city continues to change, what will we decide to save and discard? The things we produce and keep as a society reflect our needs and values. London is an incredible menagerie of what we hold dear, even if for the wrong reasons.

If New York was delirious then London is raw. Faced with confronting plague, the Great Fire, and the Blitz, it has kept its markers of preservation while carrying on with progress.

 

 

London Wall and 88 Wood Street

Tower of London and Beyond

Queen’s House and Canary Wharf

The British Museum, is it right?

Today we went to the British Museum. I had a great time as there was so much to see. One of the best things about the Museum was its vast collections of artifacts and art from all over the world. However, the location of those pieces here in London raises questions concerning Britain’s (and other nations) history of “relocating” or “saving” items of cultural significance from around the world. While admiring all of the artwork, I couldn’t help but ponder on whether the British Museum should be allowed to hold such important pieces of other societies. On one hand, I would argue that it is good that the British Museum has done this, as someone like me can visit one place and see art from all over the world, dating back thousands of years. London, being such an international city, provides easy access for all of the world to experience those works of art. Had those pieces stayed in their places of origin, I would not have been able to see Greek pottery, Roman sculptures, Egyptian mummies, Chinese jade jewelry, and so much more in just one day. Most likely, I, and many other people, would have never been able to experience any of those things. On the other hand, I would argue that there is something not quite right with someone growing up in Greece, living within eyesight of the Parthenon and never seeing the Parthenon Marbles while a kid living in England could see them whenever they choose. The more I think about it, the harder it is for me to say that it’s okay. Why does England (and several other countries) get to take the most incredible pieces of culture from all over the world and keep them for themselves? Imagine if the U.S. (or any other country) just took the Crown Jewels and held them in a museum. I think everyone would agree that that isn’t right, so what’s different about what England has done? Nevertheless, I am grateful that I was able to visit the British Museum and experience all of “its” wonders.

Me displaying Greek Statues

A bronze Chinese sculpture

Me wondering if the Parthenon marbles should be housed in England