AmeriTurk Guide to Turkey

PREFACE: While I update this regularly with new restaurants and hotels, etc., it’s written based on my 15+ years of visiting Turkey (I’ve probably spent a year of my life in Turkey at this point–and yes, my Turkish is still horrible). Things have changed in Turkey since 2007, so keep that in mind. Turkey is still a safe country to visit. I’ve never felt afraid for my safety (and I have in other cities of the world, just not in Turkey). I haven’t been to southeast Turkey yet, but I’ve heard it is still safe and beautiful too. Istanbul is still a big city, so there are plenty of people looking to dupe tourists (from a rug selling cousin to taxi drivers who won’t turn on the meter). Note that this is an American perspective, but always visiting with local Turks.

Airports . There are two airports: IST and SAW. IST is the big, new one, on the European side, where most international flights arrive. SAW is the on the Asian side, and a little closer to the city center (aka, the Old City and Taksim Square areas, more on that later).

Uber/Taksi. The easiest way to your hotel is a Taxi (Taksi), which is right outside airport. You can’t hail taksis on the street in Turkey–you have to call them (and speak Turkish–your hotel can do it for you), got to a Taksi stand, or use an app. Yellow taksi is cheapest, then the tourquise (nicer cars, a little bigger), then the big vans are most expensive (for more people with lots of bags). There are three lines at the airport, so pick accordingly. Don’t  negotiate here–just ask for the meter. Uber also works last time I checked (but not Lyft; this changes every year), but it calls a taksi, which works well around Istanbul. There’s also an app called BiTaksi that works like Uber. Taksi’s are still very cheap (Google will give you an estimate). It’s 40-120 min, depending on traffic, to city center. Write down your hotel name for the driver. You can now take public transportation from the airports, but you’ll need a few transfers, and it will take over an hour. If you’re savvy, you can figure it out. Obviously, don’t go with a stranger or anyone who approaches you with a car service.

Visa. Americans no longer need a visa to enter Turkey!! (before 2024, Americans needed to buy a sticker for $30 (or 25EUR) at a little window before you went thru passport control. You can check online if you need one, though I don’t recommend the e-visa, it’s an updated list of countries.).

Beyond Istanbul. I start with Istanbul below, and there is plenty to do in Istanbul to keep you busy for at least a week (Istanbul FAQ’s are at the bottom.). But people usually ask what else to do in Turkey, and there is no simple answer. The easy solution is a day trip to the Prince’s Islands on a ferry. Any other trip you’ll probably want to fly (flights are cheap now, and there are new highways and trains to Ankara and Izmir) or drive (I drive, but it’s not America!). If you want to go to amazing beaches, then go to Bodrum, Cesme, Kas, or Bozburun (the latter two are more secluded, but harder to get to). If you want a private blue cruise/voyage, try Göcek, Fethiye, Bodrum, or Marmaris. If you want nature, history, and hiking go to the caves of Kapadokya (aka, Cappadocia) or anywhere on the Aegean coast (including the ruins of Efesus, Troy, Bergama, and Temple of Athena at Assos). If you want recent history and to see Ataturk himself, go to Ankara. If I could only pick one, I would go to Efesus for one day, hit up Pamukkale nearby, then spend a night in historic Izmir or a beach town like Foça or Çeşme. But let’s first start with the big one, Istanbul…and how to get there.

Istanbul (see FAQs at the bottom)

We’ve created a custom map of Istanbul with these landmarks here. I tried to include various restaurants in different areas too.

  • Red: Restaurants    Purple: Historical      Purple Star: Jewish landmarks    Light Blue: Hamam (Turkish Bath)
  • Yellow House: Hotels (some recommended Hotels, but there are lots of options!)
  • Let me know if you have any to add to the map or list!

One of the best things you can do to enjoy Istanbul is to just walk and get lost, which is easy. It also helps to know her history. Istanbul has served as the capital of the Roman Empire (330–395), the Eastern Roman (Byzantine) Empire (395–1204 and 1261–1453), the Latin Empire (1204–1261), and the Ottoman Empire (1453–1922). The story of Istanbul brings it to life. If you have time to read a few pages in Wikipedia, you’re off to a great start. If you have even more time, read My Name is Red or Istanbul by the Nobel Prize winning author, Orhan Pamuk. There are some good podcasts too.

Istanbul FAQ’s are at the bottom. Times do not account for waiting in lines, which get long in the touristy summer, holidays, and in afternoons.

 Bosporus Tour: One of the best ways to see the city is from the Bosporus. You can take one of the many tours, but I think the best (and cheapest and most adventurous) is to just hop on a ferry and go to the Asian side, and catch another ferry to come back. You can get lost, but that’s part of the adventure. The views are spectacular. You need an Istanbul Kart (same card for Metro/subway/bus: A small fee for the card itself, then you add money. You can share it with up to 5 people.). If you’re on the European side look for boats going to Kadikoy (Asian side). You can also go to the Bostanci port (Asian side), the Prince’s Islands (in the Marmara), and several other ports. You can catch boats on the European side at the Kabatas port (at the bottom of the F1 funicular/tram that goes from Taksim square down to the Bosporus), at Eminonu (in the Old City), or at Karakoy (at the bottom of the historic Tunel at the end of Istiklal).

You can also take a boat to the Maiden Tower (Turkish: Kız Kulesi), which is a tiny island in the Bosporus with a little lighthouse (with a restaurant inside). You can catch the short 15 minute boat there from Kabatas (Euro side) or Salacak (Asian side).

Note: “feribot” is for people and cars, “vapor” is just for people. There are websites with timetables, but they don’t include everything. It’s best just to read the timetables at the port.

The “Old City”: Aya Sofia (1-2 hours) and Sultenamet (1 hour), Basilica cistern (1 hour, highly recommended and get tix in advance), Topkapi palace (the old Ottoman palace, 2-3 hours), which are all right next to each other. The Grand Bazaar (Kapali carsi, pronounced “Kah-pah-leh char-sheh”) and spice bazaar (1-5 hours to see both depending on how much bargaining and shopping you’re going to do) is a 15 min walk from Aya Sofia/Sultenamet (good to walk, traffic is really bad in the old city). Or take the tram just two stops. These are the traditional tourist spots that give you the history, but less of the current city or culture (though Turks do shop at the Grand Bazaar too, they just get better prices ;)). Grand Bazaar is closed Sunday. UPDATE: Aya Sofia was a museum and now it is a mosque (again. it was originally a church, then a mosque, then a museum, and now a mosque). So, technically there’s no admission price, but they’ve covered up all the beautiful artwork and it’s now a working mosque, so you’ll need to follow mosque etiquette.

These places get very busy in the touristy summer, so times will take longer with longer lines in the afternoon. I highly recommend getting tickets in advance online. A tour guide is also well worth the price, even if you find one on the street (they will have IDs and you can negotiate!). They are allowed to skip the lines!

Taksim Square and Istiklal (1-2 hours): this is also a touristy area but it was a local favorite too (I heard it got more touristy lately). Istiklal is an outdoor pedestrian street with lots of shops, great restaurants, some clubs/bars, a historic Trolley down the middle, the oldest subway in the world (at the bottom connecting to the Golden Horn, called the Tunel), and hamams. Nevizade is a small side street with great Mehane’s (small bar/restaurants with Raki, pick the busiest one, order mezes for table and raki to drink). Explore this area, but be street smart. Watch your wallets and don’t let strangers take you to strange places. Remember you’re in a BIG city. This is a great place to go at night to walk around. See more under Where to Stay.

Galata Tower: This is the famous tower of Istanbul found in many photos. It was an old Jewish neighborhood of Istanbul. This is also the music neighborhood—it’s full of music shops selling every instrument possible. At the bottom of Istiklal Street, keep walking down the hill (10 min) and you’ll see the tower. It’s an easy walk down the hill to the Golden Horn. Once you’re down there, you can take the historic Tunel back up, or you can cross the bridge over the Golden Horn to the Spice Bazaar (which then leads to the Grand Bazaar). If you’re really tired, hop on the light rail (Tramvay). It will you take you to Sultenamet and then to the Grand Bazaar.

Synagogues/Jewish Museum: Neve Shalom is the synagogue near the Galata Tower and Istiklal. It is still active and worth visiting. Here’s the info for visiting, or just show up with your passport and tefilin for Sunday minion: . Further down the hill near Galata Tower (and near where the Tunel ends) is the Jewish museum of Turkey (aka, “The Quincentennial Foundation Museum of Turkish Jews”). It’s small and only takes an hour or two, but it’s cool to see the history of Turkey and Jews (how they came from Spain, how Turkey helped Einstein and others escape Germany, etc.).

Dolmabahce and the Ortakoy neighborhood: Dolmabahce palace (1-3 hours, a good tourist attraction built by the Sultan in the 1800s) and by our favorite neighborhood, Ortakoy. There are cute restaurants (House Café is great) and street food in Ortakoy right near the beautiful bridge (by the Radisson), lots of little shops, crepes, and I believe you can catch a boat to the Maiden tower from there (a small island in the Bosphorus with a light tower and restaurant). It’s about 10 minutes to Taksim/Istiklal. Best to spend an evening here and walk around. The street food is awesome and cheap! Ruby (formerly Angelique, I think) has beautiful views and is high end.

Nisantasi neighborhood. If Istanbul had an Upper East Side, yet with the shops and café’s of SOHO, this is the place. Great place to walk around, high end shops, and very local. The W Hotel and Swisshotel are on the edge of this neighborhood. The “center” is roughly the intersection of “Rumeli Caddesi” and “Vali Konagi” Caddesi. Here is a nice stop-by stop description. Walk down Abdi Ipekci street, the Rodeo Drive of Istanbul, with Luis Vuitton, Prada, Tom Ford, etc. For the real deals and high fashion, though, go to the side streets with the small local boutiques. Afterwards, grab lunch or dinner on Atiye Sokak (try House Café or MUST or Cabbar nearby)—a small pedestrian street where you can sit outside and soak up the neighborhood. When you’re done, you can catch the Macka cable car that goes above the Macka park back to the Taksim area.

Karakoy. This is an old are that has been re-habbed as a new entertainment and tourist area, and centrally located. Cruise ships park nearby and there are several high end hotels now (JW Marriott, Peninsula, etc.). Lots of great restaurants have popped up on the water too. Check out Parantez for mezes and drinks. The JW has an bar on top that has amazing views.

Asian Side: This part of Istanbul is often overlooked, and is more residential, but very beautiful and lots to see. Take a boat to Kadikoy (port on Asian side), and take the historic tram (T3, it goes in a circle) or just walk to the Moda area. You can also go to Hyderpasa Gari (train station) and catch a Metro and get off at Suadiye or Bostanci station. Walk a few blocks to Bagdat Caddesi, which is a big long avenue filled with restaurants, coffee shops, and high-end shops. It’s the local strip. Walk to end of the street (against traffic) and you’ll be at Bostanci port, where you can walk along the Marmara and catch another ferry back to the European side!

Moda area. This is cute old neighborhood on the Asian side. Great to walk around.  Take the T3 tram from Kadikoy port or just walk it. It did run every 10 minutes. Once in Kadikoy/Moda area, you can simply walk around and soak it in. But, if you want to have some to-do’s this link has some nice ideas. My favorite is the Baris Manco museum (famous 70’s singer). Going by the “iskele” (pier) is probably a nice idea. For sweets try Ab’bas Waffle. Lots of great restaurants and probably the most liberal part of town.

Restaurants & Eating in Istanbul (see map for location and other notes)

Here’s a short list of some of the restaurants. See the map for more. Of course, there’s plenty more in the neighborhood. Several of these places have multiple locations (eg Develi, House Cafe, Buselik). And there’s Gunaydin and Köşebaşı--two kebab restaurants with several locations and they’ll deliver!  Restaurants in Turkey are either kebab (meats) or fish (never both), but either way you need to order lots of mezes/small plates first (and most are vegetarian). Reservations are always encouraged because Turks will take several hours for dinner (so tables don’t turn over). Ask for a table outside for the full experience.

  1. Taksim/Istiklal Area
    1. Buselik Tunel. Restaurant with great food and great views near the historic Tunel (thus the name). The restaurant has other locations around Istanbul too.
    2. Nevizade Sokok. This is a street with restuarants. This is a narrow street lined with indoor/outdoor cafes called “meyhane’s”. They’re tapas-style (what the Turks call “mezes” or “Mey-zeys”) restaurants, so be adventurous. It’s almost required that you eat them with Raki (the Turkish alcohol, which is like ouzo or arak). Cumhuriyet (“joom-hurry-ette” which means “Republic”) is our favorite restaurant. Moderately priced. Try to get a table on the street.
    3. Asmali Mescit. This is a street too. This is another narrow street lined with meyhanes/cafes at the bottom of Istiklal near the Richmond Hotel and Tunel. Our favorite restaurant is Yakup 2. Legendary place. Try to get a table outside on the street, otherwise nice garden in back. Competitively priced.
    4. Demeti Meyhane. Near Cihangir taxi stand. Small place, not pretentious, upstairs with great views and awesome mezes. Very local.
    5. Galata Tower: Good views, historic, but touristy. Good place for lunch while you tour the tower.
  2. Old City Area
    1. Havuzlu: Lunch only. Great place to rest your legs for lunch during a day in the Grand Bazaar. Ask anyone and they’ll point you in the right direction (it’s hard to find). Order the iskender (slices of doner beef). Clean bathrooms too! Moderately priced, but worth every penny.
    2. Giritli: Near Kalyon hotel in old city, great seafood. 0 212 458 2270.
    3. Balıkçı Sabahattın. Fish place near Giritli. An institution and favorite. Huge outdoor seating area.
  3. Nişantaşı Area (very posh, high-end, old European-style neighborhood. Center of fashion and shopping in Istanbul, so the restaurants are some of the best too. Mostly locals and few tourists.).
    1. Cabbar. One of my favorites for kebabs! Very nice, high-end kebab place in
    2. Kurtuluş. Hole in the Wall kebab place. May smell like bbq when you leave. Another institution.
    3. House Café. There are two in this area. The one on Atiye Sokak has the best atmosphere.
    4. Limonata. Another great restaurant in Nisantisi. Fun, kitchy, hip place with very modern take on Turkish classics. It is next to the Louis Vitton, so that can be your land mark.
    5. Develi. Another favorites for kebabs. Very nice too. Multiple locations.
    6. MUST. A trendy place, great Turkish food.
  4. Ortakoy
    1. Try the awesome street food here. They have these stands with baked potatoes and you put all these topings on them. It sounds weird, but you have to try it.
    2. House Café and Banyon Café are good safe options with English menus, but street food is really the best in this neighborhood.
  5. Bebek Breakfast on the Bosporus
    1. Sade Kahve is a great place for breakfast in Bebek (a taxi ride on the water almost to second bridge), a favorite place for breakfast (a very nice neighborhood by the second bridge). It has great views of the Bosporus and Rumeli Castle (the remains of the Wall of Constantinople).
  6. Between the First and Second Bridge on Bosporus
    1. Iskele Restaurant. This place is in Rumeli Hisari (near Bebek by second bridge). Amazing views and practically on the water, great traditional meze’s and fish. Definitely need reservations for a sea-side table. I would recommend being there around 8:00-ish to catch the sunset – which is really as good as it gets.
    2. Danış: Great kebab restaurant right on the water in a posh neighborhood called Arnavutkoy.
  7. Moda (a cool pedestrian neighborhood on the Asian side with lots of restaurants!).
    1. Tatar Salim. Great doner (gyro) kebab place. All about the meat here, so don’t get too fancy. Last time I was here, they were still using charcoal on the doner! A rarity now…
  8. Any kebab or doner (aka, Turkish gyro) stand on street or window: These are some of the best stands. Order anything, it will be awesome.
  9. Any simit stand on the street: You can find these everywhere, especially outside of Hagia Sophia. They look like thin sesame seed bagels. Delicious.

Eating tips:

  1. Eat lots of mezes (appetizers). Most turks will order 2 or 3 per person (a few hot, a few cold), then an entree. Sometimes the mezes are the best part!
  2. Drink the Raki. You can order by the glass, the half bottle (375ml), or full bottle (750ml). They pour it in a small glass, add water, and then 2-3 ice cubs. When the water is added it turns into a milky color. It goes great with fish and kebabs and they will respect you if you drink it (or at least try it).
  3. “Doner” (pronounced “do-nair”, at least to me) is that stuff spinning slowly in the windows sliced thinly like a gyro or shawarma. Common lunch food and amazing. Harder to find at dinner.
  4. “Iskender” is a dish that has doner in it. Very good, great lunch dish.
  5. “Durum” means wrapped, or anything wrapped up. You’ll see lots of restaurants on the street with these names. They can have all sorts of things in them. Give ’em a try. Be brave. I like my doner in a durum.
  6. Turks are known for their beef, lamb, and fish (don’t waste your time with chicken). A restaurant will either specialize in kebabs (beef and lamb), or fish. For some reason, they stick to their core competencies. If a restaurant has both, it’s probably a tourist spot.

Other Istanbul Info   (see FAQs at the bottom)

Where to stay. This is hard. There are so many great hotels that are not expensive. You can go five star on the bosporus for $500/night or get a nice 4 star for $100. Even the three stars can be decent. Anywhere around Taksim or Nisantasi is good, or the new hotels around Karakoy are a great location (near JW Marriott, Peninsula, or Pera Palace, which are high-end, but there are many affordable boutique places nearby). I just would not recommend staying in the old city (though Kalyon and a few others are nice, they’re more secluded). The Richmond, 10 Karakoy, or DeComondo all have a great central location and great views. You can easily take the historic Tunel, the Tramvay, get to the Old City, walk to Galata Tower and the historic synagogues (appointments suggested for a tour). Make sure to walk around the street next door called Asmali Mescit (“asmaleh mescheht”) at night. Go to a tiny bar called “Parantez” and order their special mojito, or get cheap draft beer (Efes is the local beer) next door.

Public transportation/Metro: The public transport system improves drastically every year and it now services IST airport. You need an IstanbulKart: one card will get you on ferries, subway/metro, bus, and even bathrooms! You can get it at some vending machines, pay a small fee for the card itself (mabye $2-$3), then you add money (which you can reload). Some machines require cash only. You can share it with up to 5 people, so you can get one for your group. What’s odd is that changing trains and buses often costs extra, and it’s not nearly as smooth as Europe (or even US). But it’s getting better, and still very inexpensive. A historic route is the lightrail in the Old City to the Tramvey (T1) that connects the old city with the historic Tunel at Karakoy (Tunel goes up the hill to Istiklal, where there is a historic trolley to Taksim Square, and to the M2 subway which goes to Taksim and beyond). When traffic is bad, which is most of the time, the metro or walking is your only option.

For ferries, see part above on “Bosporus Tour.”

Taxi (Taksi): You can’t just hail a taxi in Turkey. If possible, have the bellman tell the taxi driver where to go or use the Uber app to order a taksi (it will bill your Uber account so the driver can’t ask for more $$). The difficult part can be getting back because the drivers (especially from the Old city) prey on tourists and want to charge you a flat rate instead of the meter. Never take a flat rate. You just have to keep asking for the meter and trying until you find one that agrees to turns on the meter. It’s best to write down where you are going and show it to the driver, since most do not speak English. Yellow taksis are the cheapest, then turquoise taksis (a little bigger and nicer), and then big black vans are the most expensive (good for airport with multiple people and lots of bags).

Tour guide: You can find one from the hotel or outside all the major attractions. A BIG tip on tour guides: they make almost no money on the tour, so you should tip them, or they will try to take you to shops where they make commission. They’ll take you shopping afterwards and make commissions (20-50%) off of what you buy (especially rugs and ceramics). We’ve seen tour guides negotiate in Turkish with the store owner about his commission while the owner negotiates a price with the tourist. The good news is if you don’t buy anything, you can get a tour guide for cheap (or you can just tip them well, which is much cooler).

Marmara & Black Sea Region:

1) Prince’s Islands

The Princess Islands (or “The Islands”) are composed of nine islands off the Asian coast of Istanbul, in the Sea of Marmara. There are regular passenger ferries to four of the islands from different piers in Istanbul: Sirkeci, Kabataş, and Bostancı districts. Most people go to the Islands for a day trip. The four islands are known as Adalar (Islands) and their names are Büyükada, Heybeliada, Burgazada, and Kinalıada. The names of the islands come from the Byzantine period, when princes and empresses were exiled there. But during the Ottoman period, especially around 19th century with the use of steamboats, these islands became a popular resorts for Istanbul‘s wealthy, building their wooden houses. Jewish, Greek, and Armenian communities were a large part of the inhabitants of the islands. Here is more info about specific islands taken from a few websites:

BUYUKADA is the largest and the most famous of the Islands, but is also not quite as quaint as it allows cars. Some of the historical buildings are Aya Yorgi Church and Monastery from the 6th century, Ayios Dimitrios Church, Hristos Church and Monastery, and Hamidiye Mosque built by sultan Abdulhamit II. A long route or a short route can be chosen to visit the island when you rent a carriage. Unlike the calm and forested southern part, the northern part of Buyukada is a heavy residential area being close to the pier, therefore most of the private yachts anchor on the southern tip.

HEYBELIADA (or just Heybeli) is a quaint little island with no cars and horse drawn carraiges. When you get off the boat, rent one for a 20-minute ride to check out the island. We got one for 40 lira ($18 as of 6/2014), but as of December 2016, the lira is now 3.4 to 1! The island used to have its copper mines, which are shut down today. There are some interesting buildings on Heybeliada; one is the Naval Academy and other one is the Greek Orthodox High School. A small church dedicated to the Virgin Mary stands in the courtyard of the Naval Academy. Degirmen is a nice picnic area on the side facing to Kasik island. There are also nice public beaches set in a nice cove and a water sports club on this side of Heybeli. There are several restaurants around the pier to try local dishes and fresh fish.

BURGAZADA has some great restaurants offering great views of the sunset. There is a nice sailing and water sports club and several rocky beaches, but the island doesn’t offer many places to overnight unfortunately.

KINALIADA has beautiful summer homes which people rent for the season. A large Armenian community prefers this island for their summer vacations. Its nice beaches (one called Ayazma) attract people from the city. Hristos Monastery is located up on a hill and was built by the Byzantine emperor Romanus IV (Diogenes) while he was exiled there and where he was buried. The monastery is open to the public only on Fridays. There are several restaurants and cafeterias along the pier, where there is a very modern mosque to the left.

2) Ağva – This is a small town located between two rivers, Yesil Cay (Green Creek) and Goksu, on the Black Sea (Karadeniz) and it has a beach on Kara Deniz (Black Sea). The nature really surrounds this little town, with all shades of green and blue. It is only a couple of hours outside of Istanbul via bus (which leave about once every hour). If you want to have a peaceful couple of days buried in nature, it is the ultimate place! For more information please check http://www.agvarehberi.com/index_en.php

Aegean Coast and Central (Anatolian) Region:

4) Kapadokya (Cappadocia) – Cappadocia is an area with exceptional natural wonders (some Turks will argue that it is the 8th wonder of the world), characterized by fairly chimneys. The Cappadocia region is largely underlain by sedimentary rocks formed in lakes and streams, and deposits erupted from ancient volcanoes approximately 9 to 3 million years ago. The rocks of Cappadocia eroded into hundreds of spectacular pillars and minaret-like forms, and it contains several underground cities. More about Cappadocia history is available at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cappadocia. For information about travel and accommodations, see http://www.cappadociaturkey.net/. It’s very hot in the summer (this is the west of Turkey, like West Texas in elevation and heat). Be skeptical of hand made ceramics and rugs–your tour guide will push them hard (he gets a commission!).

 In the Aegean Region:

5) Pamukkale (Cotton Castle) – Pamukkale is a natural site and attraction in southwestern Turkey. As a result of multiple natural phenomenon, the hot springs in the area are covered with thick layers of white limestone and travertine cascading down the mountain slope, resembling a frozen waterfall (except that the water – even in winter – is about 98 fahrenheit). Just minutes away from the travertine, is the ancient city Hierapolis, which was founded in 190 BC. For more information, visit http://www.pamukkale.gov.tr/EN/default.asp

6) Ephesus (Efesus) – Efesus is an ancient city (Efes is the national beer), which was located in Ionia. The city was founded in 10th Century BC. It has hosted many civilizations over its long history. Today, it contains the largest collection of Roman ruins east of the Mediteranean (although only about 15% is said to be excavated). You can read more on Ephesus at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ephesus and http://www.turizm.net/cities/ephesus/. As Ephesus is in the Aegan region, it is close to many great beaches (Kusadasi is very close and a beautiful village on Aegean, see below). It is probably best to take a tour to see it. More information on tours can be found at http://www.ephesustour.net/.

7) Troy (Truva/Troia) – Famous for the horse, especially after the Brad Pitt movie, Troy is located in northwestern Turkey. The history of Troy dates back to 14th century BC. The archaeological site is officially called Troia by the Turkish government and appears as such on many maps (more on http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Troy). It is possible to organize a day trip from Istanbul to Troy (more info on http://www.turkeytravelplanner.com/itin/1to5Days/troy_daytrip.html). It’s really impressive and there’s a museum nearby too.

8) Bodrum / Ceşme – Bodrum is the ever-popular vacation spot both for Turks and foreign tourists. Bodrum is actually a peninsula on the Aegean coast of Turkey. Although downtown Bodrum has its own cove, this area is characterized by multiple coves that are very close to each other. All of these coves are beautiful in their own right! And most of the local tourists will travel to a different cove everyday to visit beach clubs. All of these coves have multiple private beach clubs that requires a cover charge to get in (generally covering some expenses once you are in). These beach clubs turn into restaurants by sunset and dance clubs by night. Other than the beach clubs, there are multiple resorts on the beach and many other great restaurants to enjoy around the peninsula. In addition, an antique amphitheater and castle awaits those coming to Bodrum. You can find more information at http://www.bodrumlife.com/index.htm.

I think the best places to stay in Bodrum are not in Bodrum proper, but it depends what you’re looking to do. It’s fun to visit downtown Bodrum one night, eat dinner on the promenade, and party (you can go all night), but it’s pretty hectic to stay and traffic can rival Istanbul on a weekend night (an hour to go a mile). The sleepy towns in coves around the area are what attract the big yachts and lavish vacation homes, places like Yalikavak (they have the posh Palmarina with high end shops and restaurants from Istanbul), Gümüşlük (more laid back and remote), Gündoğan, Türkbükü (big place for yachts), and Torba. In Torba there’s a cool hotel right on the beach, called Casa Dell’Arte. It’s really an art gallery that you get to live in. There’s a great restaurant next door where you literally sit on the beach.

Our favorite is Türkbükü (where we stay). Türkbükü has a beautiful promenade along the beach and beautiful boutique hotels (Kuum, Divan, Maki, and our favorite Flamm) and the Mandarin Oriental and Il Riccio hotels that are 5 minutes outside of the village in a secluded bay. But there are many local affordable options. Each town has several of its own restaurants, shops, better beaches, etc (and minibuses to Bodrum city). Though, the best English will probably be in Bodrum city proper, you can get by with some patience in Turkbuku. Our favorite beach club is Flamm (technically in Golkoy, next to Turkbuku), which has lots of space and an actual beach, and is a great hotel as well. In Turkbuku cove, Miam is the hot restaurant (it becomes a hopping club after 11pm). Unfortunately, most of the beach in Turkbuku is now covered with decks and chairs—which is great for laying out and jumping in the sea, but not great for sandcastles. It’s not the big white sand beaches of the Caribbean. It’s the Turkish Riviera: giant yachts, gullet sailboats, beautiful coves surrounded by mountains and white cottages. If you want more space, go over to Flamm beach in Golkoy, just a few minutes away.

The airport (BJV, Milas-Bodrum) is 45 minutes outside of Bodrum, but taksi’s aren’t too expensive. If you’re on the cheap, there are lots of shuttles to take you to your hotel (or check with the hotel), or take a shuttle/bus to the new Bodrum bus station (near Torba), and then a taxi from there to your hotel.

Boats and Blue Voyages (Gullet boats) can be chartered from Bodrum, Marmaris, and Göcek/Fethiye.  Prices vary by the size of the boat, and include everything except alcohol: captain, sailor, food. Prices are usually a great deal, starting at $800 a day in July for a boat that sleeps 6, but you usually need to buy the entire week. The more you pay, the nicer and bigger the boat.

Çeşme (Chesh-meh) is very similar to Bodrum (the nearest airport is an hour away, in Izmir), as it is also composed of multiple coves, which have multiple private beach clubs. Çeşme is as beautiful as Bodrum, and it is less crowded. However, since it is more to the north, there is a risk of having cooler days (and evenings) in June. Cesme will have more locals and be harder to navigate with only English and no car. Like Bodrum, Çeşme too has an old castle worth seeing. More information can be found at http://www.cesme.gen.tr/Default.aspx

Çeşme, Bodrum, and Marmaris have boats and ferries leaving for the nearby Greek islands (“feribot” is for cars and people, “vapor” is just people). It is also possible to organize a “Blue Voyage”, one of the best ways to enjoy Aegean and Mediterranean. Blue Cruise/Voyage is the term used to describe taking a yacht on the Aegean and Mediterranean coast of Turkey in a traditionally built, handmade wooden boat, called a “goulette” or “gullet”. The route is totally up to the guests. Blue Voyage can be taken with as little as 6 as many as 15 or so people. There are lots of websites now, such as Blue Cruise or ViraVira .

Kuşadası (kush-ah-dah-seh) is another beautiful village on the Aegean with beaches. I have never been there, but it is popular with tourists because cruise ships like to stop here for the day. It is close to Efesus (20 minutes) and Izmir (1 hour), where many cruise customers go on day trips.

9) Marmaris/Bozburun – Marmaris is another gorgeous port city and a tourist destination on the Mediterranean coast (about 1:45 to BJV airport and 1:15 to DLM airport). Despite a construction boom in the 1980s, Marmaris still retains its charm due to the exceptional natural beauty of its location. It is touristy like Bodrum, especially with Europeans. It is a major center for sailing, possessing two major and several smaller marinas. There are regular ferry services to the Greek island of Rhodes. If you want nightlife, shopping, and/or a big resort, go to Marmaris, but if you want a peaceful and secluded getaway, go to Bozburun (another hour past Marmaris) and stay at the secluded Karia Bel Hotel. There are about 20 rooms with beautiful sea views with no roads to the hotel (you call and they come pick you up from Bozburun with a boat!). Bozburun is hard to get to, but beautiful and worth it!

10) Kaş/Kalkan – These are small fishing, diving, yachting and tourist towns, near Antalya (one of the largest cities on the Mediterranean coast).  Because they are hard to get to, these towns are quite unlike the more touristy (and crowded) beach towns of Cesme or Bodrum, as they are smaller and quieter – yet as beautiful! Kaş and Kalkan are 30 minutes apart from each other and surrounded by many other amazing beaches (Kaputaş Beach, Patara Beach, Oludeniz (Dead Sea) and ruins of the antique cities (Olypmos, Komba (in the village of Gömbe), Nisa, Kandyba, Phellos, Istlada, Apollonia, Isinda and Kyaenai). The town of Kaş has a Roman ampitheatre and many other places of historical interest; and it has spots of natural beauty, including excellent beaches, and a number of interesting caves, some of them underwater. The mountains behind the coast offer countless places for trekking, climbing and river rafting. You can get around OK here with English. Kalkan is full of British summer houses, and you’ll find the best English in Turkey here (and the highest prices).

11) Kemer – Kemer is yet another seaside town on the Mediterranean. Like others, it has great beaches and nearby historic cites and antique cities. It is possible to find more upper scale hotels and resorts in Kemer (compared to Kaş and Kalkan). More information is available at http://www.kemerholiday.com/eng/index.htm.

12) Skiing: Uludag. I’ve only skied in Uludag, so I can’t comment on other places yet, but Uludag is the biggest in Turkey and only a couple hours outside of Istanbul. And it’s super cheap! ($18 lift tickets in 2021). You can actually park in Bursa (the old Ottoman capital until 1402), and take a gondola all the way to the village. Or take a 60 min taksi for about $30. We had great skiing there the last week of December 2021, but it’s a lot of t-bars and unmarked trails, so not a great place for first timers.

FAQ about visiting Istanbul

Travel/Visa/Currency

  1. Do I need a visa for entering Turkey?

Yes, Americans (and a few others), need a visa, but you can get it at the airport! It’s just a sticker for $30 (25EUR). You buy it at a little window before you go thru immigration (follow the signs saying “Visa/Vize,” step-by-step instructions here.). They accept US dollars, Euros or major credit cards. You can also buy it online, but it’s more expensive. If you’re not American, you can see if you need a visa online.

  1. Do I need to apply for a visa far in advance?

No! If you are American, the best thing to do is to buy your visa stamp upon arrival (cheaper and faster that pre-purchase options). If your county of origin has additional requirements, please check with the Turkish consulate in the city that is nearest to you.

  1. What about cash and currency in Turkey?

Short answer:  I get cash at an ATM and there some that do not charge any commissions on the Turkish side (see next point).

Long answer: Most ATMs now charge fees in Turkey, sometimes over 10%! Beware! The really sneaky fee is they ask to do the conversion to dollars for you, and it’s always a bad – don’t accept the conversion! It’s a horrible exchange, taking another 5-10%. Decline the conversion and let your bank do it. The good news is that there are tons of ATMs, often 4-5 back-to-back (so literally just shop until you find a decent one). Your USA bank might charge a fee too, depending on the bank. I use Schwab because they charge nothing and even refund any fees from other banks.

ATMs that don’t charge fees (as of 2022): HalkBank, Ziraat, Sekerbank, PTT (basically the state owned banks), HSBC, ING.

Exchanging hard currency will cost you 5%-10%, unless you go with a wad of $100’s to the Grand Bazaar (then you’ll get a great rate), and they’ll accept almost any currency, including gold. Have some Hungarian Forint? Or some old pieces of gold? No problem. Go the Grand Bazaar and they’ll buy it.

The currency in Turkey is Turkish Lira (TRY or TL). The exchange rate fluctuates. Unless a major crisis takes place, you can reasonable expect a range of 1USD = 2.90 TRY, 1 USD =3.5TRY, 1USD=10TRY  1USD=20TRY 1USD=32TRY. Check rates regularly, they have a little bit of an inflation problem (but not as bad as Argentina!!).

Although the currency is Turkish Lira (TRY or TL), you are likely to see prices quoted in Euros and Dollars too. Retailers and merchants use this strategy as Euro is more stable and requires less updating in prices. Even if the prices are quoted in Euros, you can always pay with Lira (and sometimes USD), especially if you are in touristic areas or buying an expensive rug. If the prices are quoted in TRY, your best bet is to pay in TRY or to use a transaction-fee-free credit card (like some Amex cards and all Capital One cards).

  1. Can I use my credit cards in Turkey?

Yes! 90% of the time. Visa and MasterCard are commonly accepted,  American Express is more limited. When you use your credit card, you might be asked to enter a pin code. Be aware that this does not apply to non-Turkish credit cards (for security reasons, all Turkish issued credit cards have a pin code that needs to be entered at every usage). If the cashier or waiter insists, tell them that your card is different and if they try, it will work without needing a pin code. If all fails, pay cash 😉

  1. Should I exchange my currency in the US or in Turkey?

In Turkey, if you must. Do not exchange at the hotel or at the airport kiosk, or outside Turkey – they will charge you the highest rates (I just go to ATMs). There are currency exchange bureaus on every block while you are in the touristic part of the city, but the best rates will be found in the Grand Bazaar. They have little kiosks everywhere, so shop around. I once found myself with a few thousand Czech Kronor (long story…) and a little kiosk in the Bazaar saved me almost $100 with their exchange rate. You can even exchange gold and silver there.

You can also use the ATM to withdraw money. Your bank will charge an exchange rate for you, based on the going rate at the end of your billing cycle. Some banks might also charge an ATM usage fee or foreign transaction fee, so check with the bank first. The ATM’s try to trick you to convert it in Turkey–don’t accept (they add 5-10%, what a business!).

Transportation

  1. How do I get from the airport to the hotel? How long does it take?

Taxi/taksi. It will cost about $35 to the old city. If you take cabs, you will need TRY or a taksi that will take your credit card. Public transportation is possible to many parts, and it’s getting better. Though, it’s complicated.

The length of the trip from the airport to the hotel will totally depend on the time of the day and the traffic. Traffic is a BIG problem in Istanbul. If you are arriving late at night (after 9pm) or very early in the morning (before 6am), the trip can take as short as 40 minutes to the old city/Taksim. But if you catch bad traffic, it can take over an hour (or two). Of course, more likely than not, the actual time will fall somewhere between these extremes.

  1. Can/Should I rent a car while in Istanbul?

You certainly CAN rent a car, which is a very different question than whether you SHOULD. We recommend against doing so. The rental prices will be high, the gas prices are higher (about 4 times as much as the prices in US), the traffic is a mess (making NYC look like Des Moines), the maps will be inaccurate and there will be very few road signs that are actually useful. Assuming you passed all these hurdles and got to your destination and still have not hit anything (or hit by something), you will not be able to find any parking!

If you are traveling outside of Istanbul, you might need to rent a car. Personally, I drive in Istanbul all the time. I just hate the parking because I can’t understand the signs, so I pay a guy that looks legit and hand him my keys. Haven’t lost a car yet.

  1. Can I take a train from Europe? What about the Orient Express?

Actually, the Orient Express is back! It takes only 6 days from Paris and $1000! But that’s less than the $50k for the luxury version. Be ready for an adventure. “All the Adventure, a Fraction of the Cost: The D.I.Y. Orient Express” is a full guide in the NYTimes. Trains to Turkey only come from Sofia, Bulgaria. Here is the timetable. A/C is not guaranteed.

  1. How do I get around in Istanbul?

Other than walking, which is a great way to see the city, the best way is to use taxi or the Metro (no more uber). Taksi’s are very common but you usually have to go to a Taksi stand to get one (they’re territorial too). You’ll see a yellow sign where they’re all hanging out. Make sure that the taxi turns the meter on – you do not want them to charge you a random rate.

Public transportation (light rail, subway, etc.) is growing quickly in Istanbul. It is a fun and easy way to get around, and often faster than a car. It connects the Aya Sofia/Sultanahmet area to the Grand Bazaar, and Taksim/Istiklal. It’s also fun to take the historic Tunel and the historic trolley through Istiklal. You’ll need to buy an InstanbulKart and then load it with money. Well worth it.

If you want to visit the Asian (aka Anatolian) side, it is best to take a passenger ferry (or take the train under the Bosporus). There are several ports (again, the hotel will have the locations and the updated schedules) on both sides. The ride itself is a great way to see the Bosporus for cheap!

Sightseeing/Shopping

  1. What is the dress code for sightseeing?

Pretty much anything, with a few exceptions. In the sightseeing areas, the locals are very used to seeing tourists and are accustomed to witnessing all sorts of clothing, but best to be somewhat modest if you’re a female (it didn’t used to be that way, but it’s changing, unfortunately). The only exception is mosques. When you enter mosques: no shoes (you will be provided to place to store them), no shorts (you will be provided with a wrap), no cleavage for women (again, there will be a wrap) and mandatory head scarf for women (this will also be provided at the door).

  1. Do people speak English?

Depends where you are. In the Old City, everyone will speak some English (some better than others!). You should have no problem communicating. The rest of the city will have a high variance. You can run into people who speak flawless English. As such, you can also run into people with zero understanding of the language (well – other than “yes,” “no” and “OK”). When taking a taxi, it is a good idea to write down the address or the location you are going.

If you will explore other parts of the city, it would not hurt to have a print out of common phrases used in Turkish daily life (for an example see http://www.kwintessential.co.uk/resources/language/turkish-phrases.html, though there are many more available…)

  1. What else is there to do if I have extra days in Istanbul?

So much! There is a list of things to do under the “…” tab. If you want to know more about even different (and possibly less touristy) things to do, just email us at selin.joe@gmail.com.

  1. What is the shopping norm in Turkey?

Bargain, bargain, bargain… especially in the Grand Bazaar (Kapali Carsi). In these areas, a good norm is to start by cutting the price you are quoted by 60%! Where you end might depend on the seller and the product. Do not be afraid to make the seller believe that you will walk away. You can always come back and offer a different price if you want to 😉

  1. What else should I do if I want to travel outside of Istanbul?

So much! There is a list of things to do under the “…” tab. If you want to know more about even different (and possibly less touristy) things to do, just email us at selin.joe@gmail.com.

Eating/Drinking/Nightlife

  1. Can I drink the water? What about ice?

I would not recommend drinking the tap water. In restaurants, they will only serve you bottled water. Ice is probably fine (and recommended when drinking Raki). Turkish people are perfectly fine and immune to whatever might be in the water. So, are majority of the tourists. But, there are some isolated incidents of stomach flu due to the water or ice (I won’t get into details…). but… what does not kill you, makes you stronger?

  1. Do I tip? How much?

Yes, you can tip! But, much less…  If you are unhappy with the service, you should not feel obliged to tip. Turkish people perceive tip as an appreciation of service – not as a cost of the service. Normal tips are about 5%. 10% is reserved for exceptional service.

  1. What is the nightlife like in Istanbul? What are some places to go?

It was fantastic, but kind of mellowed as the culture has changed (and I’m not 27 anymore). But there are still all types of places. If you want to experience the fancy nightlife in Istanbul, there are several high-end clubs by the Bosporus (eg, Sortie). These places also have multiple very good restaurants located in them. These places charge a high cover, there are long lines and admittance is not guaranteed. If you are interested, the best way to do experience this is to make a reservation to one of the restaurants and then move to the bar/dance area. There will be two shifts for dinner: first around 8pm and the other around 10pm. These places have exceptional views – especially around sunset. So, it is a good idea to do the 8pm dinner. After dinner, you can hang around at the bar area (and avoid cover charge and lines) until the place turns into a club, which will be around midnight. The music and alcohol service used to continue till 3am, but now they have noise laws.  The names of the places have changed over the years, but back in the day the big clubs were places like Reina (on the Bosporus), Sorti (on the Bosporus), Nu Teras (around Istiklal) and Angelique (in Ortakoy). As they are very popular, you might want to make a reservation (or ask the hotel to make one) couple days in advance.

Communication/Phones

  1. Will my cell phone work in Turkey?

Your US phone will work just fine in Turkey—it will just cost more, depending your carrier. T-mobile has free 2G data, and 5GB of free fast internet, but the deals constantly change, and depend on your package. Cell phones are complicated here because the gov’t doesn’t want people importing untaxed phones, but you can use your non-Turkish phone for at least 3 (maybe 6) months without an issue.

  1. Should I get a cell phone while I am in Turkey?

Probably not. If you have a phone with an eSIM, try the Jetpac app. You can buy an eSIM just for Turkey that will have a data plan too (and your non-Turkish number will still operate). Or you can buy a physical SIM card at a Turkcell or Vodafone or TurkTelekom kiosk, which are all over the city. To be able to use these cards though, you will need an unlocked phone. The cellphones purchased from US providers are sometimes locked if you haven’t paid it off. Alternatively, you can purchase a phone in Turkey (and then be able to use it in the US), but an iPhone is 3x the cost here as of 2024.