Berlin: The Honest City

The entire flight from Paris to Berlin, I talked to a woman from California who had made Berlin her home. I have known many Americans who claim Berlin is their true home, and walking through the streets on the very first day, I immediately knew why. My relative that I take the most after lived and loved Berlin before moving to the states. I immediately felt comfortable in a way I had not really known before in a big city.

The German museum was very cool, and definitely a favorite. It focused primarily on the background of German history leading up to the world wars, and how that lead to the rise of the Nazi party. The museum seemed to own up to almost anything I could think of and it taught me background information that I had never heard. Such as the extent of occupation in the Ruhr valley. We only hear about how terrible the Germans were to the French, but never how atrocious they were at that time to the Germans. It was very cool though to see videos and pictures of Germany at their time of the automobile and rise of public transportation. It looked a lot like the US in that way. It was interesting to see the impact of American culture and how it could be seen as far away as Germany, like the German flapper dress I saw. Something else this museum had that I hadn’t really seen otherwise was what happened to Germany after WWII and how the Berlin Wall a two Germany’s came to be.

 

This was a Kaethe Kollwitz sculpture depicting a mother with a starving child. Her artwork was used throughout the museum to show an insider perspective of the incredible and humanly relatable suffering that was taking place leading up to World War II in Germany

This was a Kaethe Kollwitz sculpture depicting a mother with a starving child. Her artwork was used throughout the museum to show an insider perspective of the incredible and humanly visual suffering that was taking place leading up to World War II in Germany

The museums in Germany were very objective museums overall. They don’t try to justify but say how things happened. In Berlin I’ve heard new things never knew before, and saw a new side with background context that  showed what made Germany such a viable environment for that rampant racism.

This was a sculpture of a communist rebuilding and supporting one another after World War II. The German museums frequenlty displayed pieces of art and other things that depicted a wide range of political beliefs and backgrounds other than only the popular or positive ones

This picture was displayed in a German museum was one of the most haunting images I had ever seen. It depicts partly the extent of influence that the Nazi’s had over everyone in the German state, including the Christian church. This was an ugly truth, and was clearly displayed and explained in the museum

This was a sculpture of a communist rebuilding and supporting one another after World War II. The German museums frequenlty displayed pieces of art and other things that depicted a wide range of political beliefs and backgrounds other than only the popular or positive ones

This was a sculpture of a communist rebuilding and supporting one another after World War II. The German museums frequenlty displayed pieces of art and other things that depicted a wide range of political beliefs and backgrounds other than only the popular or positive ones

I think the open and objective manner of the German museums could be seen also in a lot of the conduct in had had while in Germany with Germans. On trains, people look up and smile at each other. Other people would  acknowledge others and accommodate others more than I’ve seen before in the other big cities. People just seemed too busy elsewhere to care about others, and here people seemed to always be aware of what was going on around them (except for tourists walking in the bike path!)

This quote discussed the interesting German concept of "blood shame", which has historical roots in German culture and frames of mind when it comes to reputation and personal regard as well as in an epic stance. It was also wonderful that it was translated and clearly displayed so that American visitors could get more out of the visit to the museum

This quote discussed the interesting German concept of “blood shame”, which has historical roots in German culture and frames of mind when it comes to reputation and personal regard as well as in an epic stance. It was also wonderful that it was translated and clearly displayed so that American visitors could get more out of the visit to the museum

 

I felt very welcomed by Berlin, and it was unforgettable and I’ll definitely have to go back

Bayeux & Normandy: Crepes, cow’s and craters

World War II had elements in each country I saw. Memorials in the Toronto airport, refugees in Ireland, the veteran memorials and museums all throughout Britain and London, and memorials throughout Normandy.  It really felt like a World War after seeing this.

Being in France,  it has been the first time I’ve been in a country that had a foreign language.  I know very little French, and some of the locals are way more patient and accommodating than others. It doesn’t take long to find glares and stares  when our big group is together.  We are loud without trying.

The Normandy museum was hard to digest.  Some details and parts were very well done, and others were very aggravating or passive.  Things did not seem to mesh well. The giant, colored statue right outside the stark stone and mirrored glass did not work. Even the signs on the statue contradicted themselves.  It was not necessarily that the museum showed different opposing viewpoints,  but it did in a way that did not make it clear how they were related.

The odd statue with a plaque discussing how this is depicting what is considered sexual assult

The odd statue with a plaque discussing how this is depicting what is considered sexual assult

The museum seemed to focus on the path to the war. Even entering the museum, the visitors were funneled in and black, mirrored glass was above and reflected down to show the visitors entering.  Inside,  visitors were lead down in a circular descent into a dark, echoing globe with Hitler and chanting surrounding them.

The stark museum entrance

The stark museum entrance

A portion focused on the French empire, and that was interesting to see.
The film watched towards the end, I enjoyed.  It showed multiple perspectives of the same thing at the same time. Germans preparing and Americans arriving. And it also showed the beaches then and immediately switched to film from the quiet beaches now. That left a huge impact.  There was no narrating, only images. I was glad they did this since it was a museum with visitors with many languages. No translation was needed, and that was very powerful.

One issue with the translation and foreign interpretation came from the museum’s presentation on Pearl Harbor. It was suggested that Roosevelt did not prevent Pearl Harbor to hasten the entry of the war and stated that there was no evidence to support that claim, but they said it anyway.  The phrasing was very rude and patronizing, and infuriating as a result. I was not alone in thinking that this museum had handled a few things such as this poorly.

 

Utah Beach had an atmosphere that I can’t describe. The rolling banks and sea grass were broken up by barbed wire, and memorials made the beaches feel like hallowed ground.

Weaving through the exhibits with artifacts picked up from the beach at the connected museum, it was hard not to get emotional.  Personal diaries and letters and photos of the deceased men were mixed in with weapons and uniforms and made it human.

The most impacting point was walking upstairs to the windows where it became level with the ground.  Old barbed wire and German defenses laid where they were placed all those years ago.

The view that stopped me in my tracks

The view that stopped me in my tracks

The whole little village leading to Utah beach seemed to wholeheartedly accept the history and had WWII mannequins throughout windows. The phrase “welcome to our liberators” was printed on some windows there and on windows in Bayeux. I can’t help but wonder if the locals treated us so negatively because some tourists take this as a praise to themselves and are less than humble in their conduct with the French.

This was the sort of depiction of the local reception of the Americans

This was the sort of depiction of the local reception of the Americans

St. Mere cathedral,  where the famous John Steele’s parachute was caught,  was centered in the little town.  The museums were small and in a campus format,  and were well organized and personal,  being privately owned.

The depiction of John Steele

The depiction of John Steele

The displays brought the history to life, especially in the portion dedicated to Operation Neptune . We were funnled into a dimly lit airplane lined with paratroopers.  The sounds and flashes of light were hectic as the soldiers have individual status reports. Walking out of the path through the plane,  an aerial view, dotted with parachutes, flashed lights as bombs and shells hit their targets. Mayhem and chaos was seen and easily felt. Past that, the room was filled with German materials and helmets spotted with holes and cracked open like eggs.

Point du Hoc felt like a battle field. The damage to the bunkers and the gigantic craters in the hills showed scars from a legendary battle. I cannot believe the successes that happened after looking at the cliffs and the bunkers.

It was impossible to capture the degree of physical devastation of the land, but this was one eerie thing to see

It was impossible to capture the degree of physical devastation of the land, but this was one eerie thing to see

The American cemetery, museum and memorial was beautifully done. As the clock struck upon the hour,  the national anthem began playing as I was reading the names of the fallen buried there. The grief was overwhelming.  I was also overwhelmed as I passed a cluster of graves of unknown soldiers.

The extensive American Cemetery

The extensive American Cemetery

Low-tide Omaha Beach was menacing. Looking down at the shoreline from an old bunker, it was understandable how there was so many casualties. The atmosphere would have seemed serene if not for remembering what happened there. It took consciously thinking about it to realize that it was not just an ordinary beach because of how bare it had been made over the years, and I am kind of glad at that. It showed recovery and how brief things are in the grand scheme of everything. There was a memorial, one ornate one where less casualties were seen, and one of soldiers moving “ever forward” where there was heavy casualties. I took a bag of sand from that area to share with my relatives and my loved veterans back at home.

The British cemetery was drastically different than the American one, even pulling up to it.  It is interesting to see how the different troops from different nations are memorialized. This was a cemetery that was privately owned and was easily less nationalistic in pride and was much more personalized.  It also had a mix of troops from other nations and was much more serene rather than somber.

The diverse British Cemetery

The diverse and personal British Cemetery

La Mont St. Michele  was unlike anything that I have ever seen in person before. I had never seen it before in pictures or anything,  so when driving when I saw a momentous  and astounding figure growing at the horizon,  I was struck with awe.

The view from the top really felt medieval,  and I have never experienced that before other than on the History Channel.  Hearing the connection to World War II, and and how the Nazi’s occupied it and that it was liberated by Patton’s troops was surprising and only further emphasized the apparent amazing history that Mont St. Michael had. I had asked the question to try and find out why so many of the statues faces had been destroyed, and it could have been from the French Revolution or during a Protestant/ Catholic conflict.  What I have learned in European History courses was reflected and feasible today, and I was glad to have that background knowledge to try and digest all that I saw today.

To summarize Bayeux, I have to say that I am glad that my introduction to France and a French speaking populace was in this quiet village like place. Some of the people working in the restaurants unfortunately matched negative stereotypes associated with the French. I had one person help me without rolling their eyes at me for something.

I loved the historic architecture,  the quiet streets and little shops. It was a wonderful break from hectic city life between London and upcoming Paris.  I was also excited to see cows I’ve learned about in my Animal Science courses made famous in America after our troops saw them along the French country side.

This was a random statue that was seen in the middle of a bare part of town that caught my eye

This was a random statue that was seen in the middle of a bare part of town that caught my eye. The town seemed to be so full of history and did not shy away from memorializing it

The Beginning: Dublin, Ireland and London, England

I will very briefly cover my experience with flying out of the country for the first time, for an extended period of time, without my family. It began after a 7 hour layover in Toronto, then Conor and I flew into Ireland. Landing in Dublin and seeing all of  the chaotic Gaelic signs, it finally hit me that I had officially landed in my first foreign country. It was safe to say that I had absolutely no idea what was going on. At that point, it was more exciting than nerve wracking, and I was almost giddy.

Our first meal in Dublin: the infamous Nando's Chicken. The peas were very minty and spicy, and the weirdest thing I've eaten in a long time

Our first meal in Dublin: the infamous Nando’s Chicken. The peas were very minty and spicy, and the weirdest thing I’ve eaten in a long time

Absolutely phenomenal ice cream! If you're ever in Ireland, get the Dingle Sea Salt and the Kerry Cream ice cream! You won't regret it!

Absolutely phenomenal ice cream! If you’re ever in Ireland, get the Dingle Sea Salt and the Kerry Cream ice cream! You won’t regret it!

 

While in Ireland, I took in everything. Foreign birds and plants, ancient looking trees. The accents and tons and tons of diverse cultures. I was struck by how friendly everyone, was, and how adult the elders regarded me.

This was by the popular tourist pubs in Dublin on Friday night. I had to laugh, for this picture showed the juxtoposition of a very Christian country with "hen" and "stag" (bachelor and bachelorette parties) running around behind this man.

This was by the popular tourist pubs in Dublin on Friday night. I had to laugh, for this picture showed the juxtaposition of a very Christian country with “hen” and “stag” (bachelor and bachelorette parties) running around behind this man.

Touring the prison museum of Dublin, I got unique insight that I was able to apply to what I saw in the imperial war museum for World War I and the Irish Rebellion and Civil War. I am very glad that I was able to practice navigating a foreign city in a place where the people were calm and patient.

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Dublin was absolutely beautiful, even though it rained almost every day

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We were fortunate to get to be in Dublin right before this big vote! Opposing parties shown together on almost every lamp post, just like this

On to London!

On to London!

Now landing in London was a whole different story. We landed in an airport so far away from London that we needed to take a shuttle bus and a train to get there. I felt like I kept making mistake after mistake, and when we finally got on the train, a man working with the train assisted us to First Class to better accommodate Conor. Within moments and after a breath of relief, an older British gentleman came on and stared at us, confused, and reminded us that we happened to be in First Class, and that we’d need to pay extra for that privilege. I was less than pleased, to say the least.

London? Where are you?

London? Where are you?

 

The Underground Station! Saw Zayne from One Direction shortly after this picture was taken

The Underground Station! Saw Zayne from One Direction shortly after this picture was taken

On top of that,  The Underground, (which I didn’t even know what it was) posed a lot of issues because of how much luggage there was to manage and trying to navigate something I had never even kind of before while helping Conor, who had recently broken his ankle and has been unable to walk for almost two months now. It was very hectic and people seemed to be in great stress everywhere the whole time. Everyone around me made it harder to do anything and seemed solely interested in getting themselves where they needed to be. They pushed past Conor and I onto the trains, almost knocking him over and throwing me off balance because of a 50 pound backpack I had on. I was livid, confused, and exhausted. After barely making it through that, feeling almost defeated, came finding the hotel in a foreign country without having our resources available. Walking outside, aimlessly in the heat with all of the weight and back pain, with Conor miserable and struggling to move, et cetera, et cetera: that was the low point of my entire time in Europe thus far. After running into a wonderful older British couple who just so happened to be as lost as we were, and who had helped us earlier by giving us a reassuring glance as we left the Underground car. They lead us around the wrong block a couple of times, which was not terrible since we had just finished doing the exact same thing and it was understandable how easy it was. And at this point, I was just so mentally exhausted I just followed whoever was in front of me. To wrap this up: we found everyone, everyone was happy to see us, and I got to go out and explore London within 10 minutes of finding the hotel. At the time, I wanted nothing more than to sleep and stop moving, but I am glad that I went out when I did.

So many stairs

So many stairs

Our comrades, saving the day again

Our comrades, saving the day again

I am sorry to have been so negative for this whole portion, but it honestly took me a long time to recover and enjoy London and to give it its fair shot. It was a wonderful city, just too fast a pace for me. I enjoyed the parks and the beautiful historical buildings, and there was never a dull moment anywhere.

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Making the best of everything

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The Imperial War Museum

The imperial war museum blew me away. I had seen the technological side as well as the technicalities of cause and effect relationships of things instead of only presenting the remembrance of victims. I was particularly struck by the trench exhibit, the Big Bertha side notes, the Shell Shock videos and the Auschwitz scale and German propaganda films.

London had people from all ages and seemingly every country.I couldn’t help but see signs in the underground halls about Xenophobia, and I am glad to have not seen any while I was there.

The Churchill War Rooms took me longer to be impacted by than the imperial war museum. The film before the tour giving background context and the thick and visible concrete slabs above helped me feel that it was not just a basement. I was very glad to have had the audio guide while navigating. I would have missed a lot of little details, such as the Hitler doodle on the map that hung from the meeting room’s wall.

I then visited Westminster and the Tower of London. The sheer number of years of history was shocking, and there is nothing that is as old as simple aspects of the UK, such as a water company that my waterbottle was from that was 750 years old.

The Bletchley area had a much older demographic than the other areas we visited. I am not sure why this was the case, but all seemed to have some background knowledge of what they were looking at in the displays.

Thank you, Dr. Steigerwald, for having the pigeons included in the tour! :D

Thank you, Dr. Steigerwald, for having the pigeons included in the tour! 😀

Walking through the park to Kensington Palace, we heard a helicopter and ran towards the palace to see armed guards and a caravan of cars. It turned out to be Prince Charles. The statues, guards and incredibly ornate palace was shocking after never having experience with any sort of royalty. Later that evening we went and ate Chinese food at a local restaurant and the dichotomy of live style was incredible.

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Photographic evidence! It really happened!

 

 

The last day in London, we started it off with the London Eye. The aerial views were incredible. The day began and ended with tours, and I was very grateful for wrapping up London in that way. After the London eye, the plan was to go to the Shakespeare Globe. After wandering aimlessly, we ended up being closer to the British Museum. There was so much that it was hard to comprehend what I was looking at. The Rosetta Stone and Sphinx’s beard piece did not register as being what they were until later.

For our final dinner in London, we went to our favorite pub and got fish and chips, and I cannot think of any other more appropriate meal.

Our favorite meeting place

Our favorite meeting place

 

Entering the gates at the museum, we we were handed a flyer for a ghost tour that was how we concluded our evening. The history, the views and humor was the best way to end the day.

"Loved it"- Johnny Depp after seeing that quote on the top, we were sold and laughing hysterically

“Loved it”- Johnny Depp
after seeing that quote on the top, we were sold and laughing hysterically

Overall, I honestly have to say that I do not know when I will be up to going back to London. The calmer evenings there were my favorite, and I don’t think that is somewhere I could live.

London, summarized

London, summarized

Paris: The City of Love and Positive Reflection

Paris as a city has been so romanticized throughout all of my very few experiences with it. The Eiffel Tower and French Stereotypes were the basis of my understanding of Paris up until Art History my freshman year of College, where I learned more about how important Paris was to culture. It was very easy to see how new trends could start, and I am very sure that I saw what I will be seeing, clothing, hair and makeup trend wise, in the U.S. in the near future.

I knew that Paris was the City of Love, and that was no joke. Without exaggeration, the very first thing that happened as soon as we got into the elevator at the Metro after the drive from Bayeux, was the two other couples that joined the elevator immediately, as if on cue, both began to passionately make out and rub their bodies together. I was in abosolute shock, and I am sure I was amusing to my professors and Conor. I apologize for the sensory details, but I could go on since this was the mildest of the many more public displays of affection that everyone got to see throughout the days in Paris. The Metro was overwhelming for the senses, if not for the strong smells or the sheer amount of people, on almost every ride on the metro, it was hard not to hear other people sucking on each other’s tongues. (Again, I apologize, but I can phrase it in no other way that accurately portrays it). Everywhere on every corner or even in the middle of walking paths there would be people deeply impassioned with each other’s company.  At times, it was amazing how bold these couples got, and it also made me wonder if America is just very prude. I’m comfortable with this idea so far.

The Invalides Courtyard and Armee Museum was very humbling in historical significance. I did my presentation on the courtyard and nazi occupation in Paris, and it did not take a lot of thought to figure out why the building would have been occupied. The museum was full of battles I had not heard much about before because it had no relevance to American troops, so I don’t have to wonder why I had never heard about them. That was very interesting to see, as well as how the French would include themselves in things I had not known they were involved in before. They had a very large WWI exhibit,  and that makes perfect sense, seeing how devastated France was by it.

There was also a lot of French troops from their imperial colonies, which was very enlightening to see how they justified it. America had not had these experiences with World War II, having to make sure that their colonies that they’ve imperialized stay loyal to a cause that has little relevance to them to make sure that they are willing to die for it or be punished. There was nothing I could find in the museum to see how successful the attempts to control their colonies were, and what would be done if these people did not cooperate with their French commanders.

One of the most interesting pieces of French imperialist propaganda I had seen

One of the most interesting pieces of French imperialist propaganda I had seen

France is very unapologetic about their history.  They do not blatantly state any wrong doing, but try to focus on making sure their positive involvement is known. I cannot tell if this is out of pride and self preservation, or out of a more positive mentality that may exist in the French populace. I expected there to be some sort of apologetic stances on collaboration and the French population themselves deporting the Jews within their country, but that was nowhere to be seen by me.

Another thing that I had noticed about Parisian museums that I did not really see elsewhere was that they seemed to have more accommodations for older generations, such as more ergonomic handles on doors and on bathroom stalls. I wonder if it could be because of a larger number of survivors from this time period coming to visit the Shoah Museum. I was very impressed and glad to see this, since little things like an easily maneuverable lock on a bathroom stall can make such a difference on someone who may be limited in their independence.
“Assertive new Judaism” was a phrase that stood out to me in one of the boards of text in the immediate beginning of the Shoah Museum. I had wondered why people had been so threatened by a culture that ended up requiring golden stars to be sewn visibly onto these people’s clothing so that they could stand out. It’s hard not to generalize, but people as a whole seem to be threatened by things that are new and different, and after reading this board I could see what the logic was behind the French reception of these new Jewish immigrants. It still does not make a lot of sense to me, but I am from a different country and have been raised in a very different time (fortunately).

Henri Bergson, a man who had a personal account described on the boards, said that he would have converted to Catholic if not seen “several years led preparation for the formidable wave of anti-Semitism”. He said this because he “wanted to stay among the people who tomorrow will be persecuted”. I am not entirely sure how to interpret this, but I admire his steadfast nature to defend his people he affiliates himself with.

Something else new I hadn’t seen before this museum was that “In sole cases, men refused to participate (Josefow) and were not disciplined, thus proving that refusal was possible”. I do not know if this was always the case that refusal did not meet harsh and swift punishment for the execution of prisoners or captives, but it is hard to believe that people that were not pressed with a severe punishment would do something so horrific. It was also claimed that “No official written order found for extermination of Jews”, only a decree that a final solution be made. This was very interesting to me, and was left unsubstantiated, so I will look into this in the future.

Overall, I really enjoyed Paris. The atmosphere was much more relaxed than I expected,  and the people I interacted with were much more patient than in Bayeux.  They did make fun of is for being Americans, but in a kind and joking way that was inquisitive. Paris was the most culturally different so far. A lot ate outside,  and tables had the chairs side by side instead of across each other,  and they faced out towards the street. I wasn’t sure if this was cultural or if it was more for conserving space on the sidewalk. Instead of seeming like isolated dates, these people eating were more like partners partaking in the city around them.

The City of Love was indeed the City of Love. When I wasn’t scarring myself by looking over to couples that were going too far, adoration for loved ones could be seen in other ways. Aged couples eating together smiling that things unknown to everyone around them but themselves, and seemed just as in love with each other as the young couples nearest them. It was a truly beautiful thing to see, and not something I have seen so much anywhere else. I would return to Paris again if not just to feel this powerful atmosphere again because of how positive of an impact it would leave. One could not help smiling when you’d see how much love (not just physical) was around.

       I visited the Louve, the Eiffel Tower, and Notre Dame. It all felt very surreal, and even looking back at pictures it still is hard to believe I was there.

 

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Because of Conor’s broken ankle, we got to be escorted to the front of the massive crowd to see this infamous painting. After staring at it in disbelief, we had to take a picture.

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I got to see a painting of this legendary woman that I am named after, Josephine Bonaparte

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I got to celebrate my five year anniversary with Conor in Paris, and I will never forget it

 

I ate traditional food and got to experience ordering meals without having any idea what I was about to eat. Almost everything that I ate was incredible, especially the foreign foods. The only time that this risky gamble of ordering “blind” backfired was with the foie gras. Don’t ever eat it. It’s goose-paste. Even if it’s on pretty toast and your comrades call it “fancy- feast” because of its uncanny resemblance to cat food. I ate the whole thing, and trust me on this, I am all for new experiences, but I would not recommend this to anyone. I had to use a baguette to scrape it off of the roof of my mouth. Spare yourselves, and go with that pasta that looks good instead.

Foie Gras: don’t eat it!

 

Not all of the food in Paris was scary!

Not all of the food in Paris was scary!

 

I had a croissant every day and a baguette for almost every breakfast and never got tired of it. I absolutely loved all of the pigeons and the dogs that I saw on a daily basis, and smiled every time I saw one. Between this and all of the beautiful sights and love I saw around  me, there was very few times I wasn’t smiling to the point my face hurt.

The pigeons were especially friendly by the Louve!

The pigeons were especially friendly by the Louve!

I got my fill of Paris, and would love to return in the future.