France has been a wild ride from start to finish. I was initially struck by the sight of Sword Beach from our ferry to Caen, with storm clouds rolling over the sea as we approached. As we drove to Bayeux, I was struck by the rolling countryside we saw. It is strange to think that the Allies bombed these idyllic farms to liberate the people living here, an idea discussed in every French museum we visited about the war. While we as Americans tend to think about how grateful the French are for our role in their freedom, it’s important to remember the bombing killed 20,000 French civilians and destroyed homes and livelihoods in the effort to ruin Nazi access to French rail lines.
The beaches were the most meaningful part of our visit to France. It took us 45 minutes to reach Utah Beach, and I didn’t realize just how far the Americans had to traverse through the bocage to reach populated areas like Cherbourg. Walking out to Utah Beach, not even fully at low tide like when the Americans landed, and looking back at the hills and seeing the distance our soldiers had to traverse through machine gun and artillery fire… it’s mind-boggling. I can’t even imagine being my age, joining the military, and being shipped off to invade another continent. I got a similar impression from the cliffs at Pointe du Hoc that the Rangers scaled.
It was also strange to see Omaha Beach covered with villas and restaurants, and being used by the locals. I wasn’t expecting to see Omaha being used as a real beach rather than solely a memorial to the Normandy invasion. It’s surreal to imagine this pristine beach, at one time covered in the blood of dead soldiers, with people laughing and enjoying the beach.
I also thought it interesting how the different countries represented their dead in Normandy. We began with the German cemetery, which featured a large cross on a hill and dozens of bronze plaques in place of headstones. Each tomb had at least two soldiers in it. This cemetery felt very stoic and contemplative, with the view from the top serving as witness to the destruction the Germans faced. It seemed like the Germans sought penance for their actions, like they were asking for respect for their dead even if not for their caused. This was followed up with the American cemetery. These graves were very uniform, with either crosses or the Star of David, the unit they served in, state of origin, and birth and death dates. The rows of crosses form a striking visual when looking out, the cemetery flanked by the Atlantic Ocean. In the front is a monument to the Spirit of American Youth. These soldiers are all united in death, having given their lives to win the Good War for America. Finally, we visited the British Cemetery. The graves here were all individual headstones, with quotes from loved ones on many of them. Soldiers of all different faiths and nationalities are buried in this cemetery, echoing the British belief that each soldier deserves a respectful burial. Benches are placed around the site, encouraging visitors to sit down and contemplate the names and stories they bear witness to. Each cemetery is fitting to the narrative of their respective countries.
France has been exciting, and I’m looking forward to what’s to come.
Signing off,
Patrick
Looking down the main street of Bayeux
Pegasus Bridge
At Utah Beach
On Utah Beach
The German Cemetery
Pointe du Hoc
A relative found at the American Cemetery
The British Cemetery