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Boxelder Bugs (Boisea trivittata, family Rhopalidae) have long been the “poster child” for insects that invade homes and other structures in the fall. Thanks to a tip When the boxelder bugs begin to congregate usually on the trunk of a boxelder (Acer negundo, family Sapindaceae),  it is  the first sign that the bugs are planning a little breaking and entering.

Boxelder bugs range in size from 1/2″ – 3/4″ long. They are narrow-shaped, flat-backed, and dark gray or dark brownish-black. The bugs have three highly visible orangish-red stripes running lengthwise on the pronotum, the area behind the head; “trivittata” is Latin for “three-striped”.

The bugs are seed-feeders and are so-named because of a strong association with their namesake host, but only female trees. Boxelder is dioecious (= “two houses”) which means individual trees either produce male or female flowers, but not both. Research has shown that boxelder bugs will only gather in large numbers on female boxelder trees, but not male trees.

However, adults and nymphs will commonly use their piercing-sucking mouthparts to draw juices from the seeds of other trees in the Acer genus as well as ash (Fraxinus spp.). They have also been observed feeding on alder, apple, buckeye, cactus, geranium, grape, honeysuckle, lilac, linden, oak, peach, plum, spirea, strawberry, and tulip.

Boxelder bugs have one generation in colder climates, and two generations in warmer climates. Regardless, they end the season as a mix of adults and immatures (= nymphs). However, only the adults can make it through the winter which presents a challenge to the nymphs.

At this time of the year, only late instar nymphs have a chance to make it to adulthood and thus survive the winter. To hasten their development by acquiring a quick energy boost, late-instar nymphs commonly attack and suck the life out of earlier instar nymphs. It’s a true Halloween horror story!

Boxelder bug aggregations on tree trunks occur during cold snaps in early fall. They collect on the west side of the trunks to maximize exposure to warming by solar radiation.

However, if a cold snap is followed by a warm spell, the adult bugs use their wings to disperse in search of suitable overwintering sites which may include homes or other structures. Of course, the wingless nymphs are left behind to suffer their freezing fate.

More notorious fall home invaders include Multicolored Asian Lady Beetles (Harmonia axyridis, family Coccinellidae) and Brown Marmorated Stink Bugs (Halyomorpha halys, family Pentatomidae). Both of these non-natives have a deserved reputation for invading homes in huge numbers. Although they’ve been somewhat quiet in recent years, there’s no predicting when or where we will see outbreaks which are usually highly localized.

On a side note, the predatory behavior of multicolored Asian lady beetles has helped them to redeem their reputation to some degree. Adults as well as the alligator-like larvae

are commonly observed consuming aphids and other plant-sucking insects.

The stink bugs, on the other hand, remain villainous. Outdoors, they damage fruit and vegetables. Indoors, they buzz around to scare the bejeebers out of homeowners, children, pets, etc.

Why Do They Break Into Homes?

Insects that invade homes and other structures in the fall do not intend to make their way into heated interior spaces. In fact, they are doomed if this happens.

ts are “cold-blooded” (exothermic) meaning the speed of their metabolism is mostly governed by ambient temperature. The higher the temperature, the faster their metabolism, and the faster they “burn” fat. Yes, insects have fat, but it’s confined within their hard exoskeletons, so they don’t suffer embarrassing expanding waistlines.

We, humans  are endotherms (warm-blooded) meaning we can generate internal heat to maintain a constant internal temperature. Of course, an exothermic physiology has some benefits. Imagine losing weight just by laying out on a sunny beach.

The home invaders feed voraciously in late summer to accumulate fat. They then seek sheltered locations in the fall where cool temperatures slow their metabolism during the winter so they will not exhaust their stored fat reserves. This survival strategy keeps them alive since there is nothing for them to eat throughout the winter.

Home-invading insects are attracted to the solar heat radiating from southern or western-facing roofs and outside walls and the warmth radiating from within. This can lead them into attics, exterior wall voids, and spaces around door jams and window frames. These all make perfect overwintering sites, and the insects stand a good chance of surviving the winter as long as they remain in these cool, protected locations.

However, home-invading insects may take their invasion a step too far. They occasionally continue to follow the heat gradient all the way into the heated spaces. This is disastrous for the insects and no bargain for the homeowner.

The high indoor temperatures cause the insects to burn through their fat reserves and eventually starve to death. The homeowners may burn through fat chasing the insects, but they can hit the refrigerator. The starving boxelder bugs, stink bugs, lady beetles, and other accidental home invaders do not go gentle into that good night. They commonly take flight to buzz-bomb astonished home occupants.

The Best Defense is a Good Offense

Homeowners can purchase or construct effective brown marmorated stink bug traps; however, this should be viewed as “Plan B.” There are no traps for boxelder bugs or, lady beetles. “Plan A” should be sealing openings that allow the invaders to invade in the first place.

An ounce of calking is worth a pound of bugs. Large openings created by the loss of old caulking around window frames or door jams provide easy access into homes. Such openings should be sealed using a good quality flexible caulk or insulating foam sealant for large openings.

Poorly attached home siding and rips in window screens also provide an open invitation to the bugs. The same is true of worn-out exterior door sweeps including doors leading into attached garages; they may as well have an “enter here” sign hanging on them.

Homeowners should also inspect their attic to look for unprotected vents, such as bathroom and kitchen vents, or unscreened attic vents. While in the attic, look for openings around soffits. Both lady beetles and stink bugs commonly crawl upwards when they land on outside walls; gaps created by loose-fitting soffits are gateways into home attics.

Of course, many of these preventative measures to keep home invaders out will also keep heated and air-conditioned air in. The costs in time and materials can be recovered through reduced home energy bills.

Handle with Care

Insects that find their way into a home should be dealt with carefully. Swatting or otherwise smashing these insects can cause more damage than leaving them alone since fluids inside their bodies can leave permanent stains on furniture, carpets, and walls.

Also, smashing the home invaders can release a lingering eau de bug. Stink bugs are called stink bugs for a reason. Lady beetles also have stinky blood, and boxelder bugs are armed with cloying, foul-smelling defense chemicals.

Small numbers of home invaders can be scooped up and discarded by constructing a simple but effective “bug collector” using a plastic pint water bottle as pictured below. Large numbers of insects can be quickly dispatched by placing a small amount of soapy water in the bottom of the bug collector.

Vacuum cleaners present their own sets of risks. A “direct-fan” type of vacuum cleaner should never be used unless modified. Passing the refuse through an impeller will create a horrifying bug-blender!

Source: Joe Boggs, OSU Extension

Last week at the Fairfield County Fair, I had the unique opportunity to host some international journalists from Ukraine. They were guests of the U.S. Department of State as part of a special program to foster relations with foreign press. Their mission, while they toured Ohio agricultural sites, was to capture some best practices related to farming and research, with a special focus on youth. They want to share these ideas with their homeland to inspire Ukrainian villages to engage their youth. They were fascinated by the 4-H youth exhibits and livestock at our county fair.

They also shared their heart-wrenching story, how Aliona fled to the U.S. with their two children when Ukraine was invaded, while Ruslan stayed in Ukraine to farm their crops. While in the U.S., their children have endured bullying in school due to their heritage and war status in their home country. Amidst their own personal and national turmoil, they continue to travel when possible and share stories to inspire their country.

Their visit had a profound impact on me, reflecting on all they have endured. How can we stop this bullying and spread peace? Continue reading →

When the leaves on the trees start to change color and drop to the ground, it’s a sign that fall is here. It’s also a sign that it’s time to plant bulbs so you can have a bountiful splash of color to mark the start of spring.

The best time to plant bulbs is through October because the bulbs – especially daffodils — need time to root well before the ground freezes. During the summer, bulbs are in a dormant stage because the weather is warm. They need low temperatures to break them out of their dormancy and start growing.

When buying those bulbs look for bulbs that are dry and hard and try to buy the largest ones. The larger the bulb, the larger the flower.  When deciding where to plant your bulbs, make sure there will be adequate sunlight in the spring. Bulbs can be planted under deciduous trees, which will provide only partial shade in the spring. Be aware that planting bulbs in a southern location next to a foundation could induce the bulbs to emerge too early, resulting in freezing injury.

When planting your bulbs, follow the guide on the planting chart. The rule of thumb is a depth four times the height of the bulb between the soil surface and the tip of the bulb,. For example, hyacinths should be six inches or deeper and daffodils, six to eight inches deep. Large bulbs six inches apart and two inches apart for smaller bulbs.

To grow the best looking plants, add a complete fertilizer such as 5-10-10 to the soil at a rate of three pounds per 100 square feet.  Loosen the soil under the bulb and make sure there is plenty of drainage so the bulbs won’t be sitting in water. If the soil is a heavy clay, mix it with one-third to one-half organic material such as peat moss or compost.

Plant the bulbs with the growing tip up, or the pointy end up, think of a triangle when planting bulbs. For a greater effect, plant in clumps or irregular masses rather than singly.

Once planted, replace half the depth of soil, then water. Finish covering with soil and water again. If fall weather is dry, water as needed to promote good root development.

Mulch may be placed over newly planted areas once the soil has frozen to a depth of one to two inches. This keeps soil frozen and prevents alternate freezing and thawing, which may cause the soil to heave and injure newly planted bulbs.

Some bulbs are bothered by rodents, particularly squirrels, chipmunks, and mice. They dig and feed on (or store) tulip, Crocus and Lily. Daffodils and hyacinths are not bothered. If rodents are a problem, and only a few bulbs are to be planted, consider enclosing them in hardware cloth boxes (use 1/2 inch mesh), or lay a sheet of hardware cloth over the planted area before replacing soil. Bulbs may also be dipped in Ropel®, a taste repellent, before planting to repel rodents. In spring, rabbits feed on tulip and lily foliage. Chicken-wire enclosures or some of the taste repellents work fairly well.