Smiljan Radic: Floating Weight

We had the wonderful opportunity to visit four different Smiljan Radic projects while in Santiago that really epitomize his ability to craft space. I believe he will be one of the great South American architects of our age, because he seems to have developed a subtlest eye for the connection from detail scale to diagrammatic essence, and the sensory experience that links them. Both his crypt design for Catedral Metropolitana, Mestizo, and Museo Precolombio show how he manipulates perceptual weight to create spaces of magic.

The first thing to know about Smiljan Radic is that he loves stones. Like a lot. He had a 14 ton Andean boulder imported to London for his installment of the Serpentine Pavilion. In his Santiago projects, he consistently used boulders and perceptually heavy structures to emphasize the space created by his architecture. This floating tectonic weight makes it feel as if the ceiling was hoisted with great difficulty, much like Gaudi would often do in projects like the Colonia Guell Crypt. Radic also often places visually (or physically) heavy elements on-end, or floating, sounding a low hum of the fantastic in the heads of visitors.

This sketch of the ceiling of Mestizo explores that heavy, floating feeling that brings magic to Radic’s work.

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This divider between the holy and accessible spaces shows the magic, fragile-feeling tectonics of Radic’s details.

I believe fear is a subtle tool he employs; that fear that brews into the sublime. Because there is some sense of danger or awe in being under one of his roofs, and feeling a weight is floating above you. While it always feels safe and sturdy, his spaces feel opened or hoisted for some brief period, that they may be swallowed up or tumbled after you leave and the magic dissipates. This creates a special sense of wonder and silent awe that he employs perfectly in the Crypt and the Museo, and more casually uses in the Mestizo dining area. By using architecture to create strangely floating tectonic structures, Radic plunges his guests into the realm of the fantastic, a space where they are primed to appreciate the textural details and design excellence of his architecture.

those wood steps just slay me.

This descent into Radic’s crypt prepares guests for texture and weight, and primes them for the strange weight of the space.

Day5&6

Little sculpture in La Sebastiana

Decoration on street in Valparaíso

In day 5, we got up early and start our trip at 8:00am. Taking 2 hours on bus, we went to a costal town, Valparaíso. The geography in there was steep. Houses located from bottom to top of mountains. We straight to La Sebastiana, which is a big residential of a poet, called Pablo Neruda. He is also a receiver of Nobel. This house was facing to sea with a big terrace. Standing on the terrace, you can have a good view of the whole town and the sea. There are 5 floors in this house although each floor is narrow. (This looks like a character of houses here. )Going upstairs, You can see amounts of treasures displayed in La Sebastiana. I even found some pretty Chinese drawing! After appreciating this delicate house, we walked around the town. This town is special because all buildings are colorful. You can see scrawl on wall anywhere. And it is also interesting that design is fulfill in any corner. For instance, the stair is painted in black and white, looks like piano. Then, we go down to seaside. I enjoyed the feeling when wind flowed on my face.
Time comes to day 6. We took metro to Santiago Cathedral and Museum Memory. Santiago Cathedral is a brilliant and holy place. You would be conscious to keep silence when you walk into it. Museum Memory is another respectable place. I learn a a lots about Chilean history there. Through some video and relic, I know how Chilean experience war and gorven. I respect them because I think it is difficult for them coming from battle. After visiting Museum Memory, I have a deeper understanding of Chile.

Day 6

In day 6, we had gone to the museum of memory, which is about the 1973 Chilean coup. Besides this museum, many other places in Santiago about this coup. The coup is an important historical event in Chile and strongly affected the Chilean culture. The appearance of the museum shocked me. It covered by bronze apertured pieces, which make museum looks like a huge bronze cuboid in the white square. The strong contrast between the dark green and white colors seems to remind people of this heavy history. Inside the building, the apertured cover pieces allow people can see the outside through the windows. This makes the museum has a strong appearance and less oppressed when people get inside there. The profiles of people who died in the coup are hang up on the walls, making me truly feel those people had gone. Also, watching those watches, drawings of children, and many their articles of daily use are exhibited on the walls, I can’t help imagining their life before the coup and feel sad about the tragedy. The museum reminded me of many World War two and Sino-Japanese war museums in my country. I think those museums around the world is telling to people that stop the war because the war always hurt the common people.

 

Free Day- Tour in the City and Cultural Centers

Starting with a fantastic brunch, we started our city tour. We found a nice spot at the street corner. The city of Santiago becomes more interesting when you started to stop a little while and look at the people passing by. The students who just left from schools are chatting on the curbs. The older people are strolling by then busy streets. In the middle of the road there is a guy busking as the signal turns red. Far away from your position, there is a man carrying a giant ice cream box on his shoulder with loud cries of selling. Suddenly you realized somehow it is the culture shapes the city and what you see is really the reflection of Chile history.

Coffe Cup in Brunch Restaurant

Corporación Cultural Matucana 100

Later we went to the culture centers near Quinta Normal Park. The culture centers are having seldom exhibition while the architecture itself is good enough to visit. Again many murals can be found in this art district. Corporación Cultural Matucana 100 is mainly composed by a central theater. The exterior of this theater is a historical remnant with red bricks. Inside we see the wood structures holding high ceilings. Then you can explore more on the lower level. There are some mini exhibitions going on there.

Valparaiso, A City of Chaotic Beauty

Someone once told me that the irony in his major of study, was that as a planner, his favorite cities in the world were actually unplanned.  I felt this observation in the steps I took and the meandering change of elevations I made along the streets of the seaside Chilean town Valparaiso.  The artistically and visually rich city was interesting from top to bottom, every wall displaying a unique piece of art.  This colorfulness of the city’s walls and buildings was matched also by its inhabitants, and namely one of its more famous, Pablo Neruda.  The Neruda house, La Sebastiana, was filled to the brim with visually stunning objects, and a visually stunning view of the sea as well.  Each object had a story, but my favorite was a map all the way at the top of Pablo’s house in his study.  Reading 1698 at the top, I knew that as a lover of history (and maps) I would be spending at least fifteen additional minutes pouring over the ancient artifact to learn the many secrets it held.  Valparaiso was beautiful in many ways.  It’s chaotic beauty in the realization of its city-scape is apparent, matched by the rolling Pacific Ocean to its west and ever-present Andes to the east.  Having experienced every facet of the topography of Chile’s capital region (save climbing a mountain) has helped me understand Valparaiso and Santiago better than a map or a book ever will.

One colorful street in Valparaíso. One of many, each with its own set art and architecture.

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Sketch in the Museum of Memory

The Museum of Memory was an experience that moved me tremendously.

It started with the open stair case. Wasn’t that an incredible way to start the viewers off? The stairs behind then though were what got me, because to me, they represented the people who couldn’t leave the country and had to watch their friends and family leave them.

I thought the layout of the museum as a whole was done very well too. In a lot of museums, there is a big chance that you miss information because the hallways to and from places are all similar. Here, it’s just on recangle with one piece of circulation on the side. It’s hard to miss displays, which is good for such an informative museum as this one.

The glass box that created a space for reflection was very special. Separated from the hallway by a sign lair square column, it made us look at the faces of those who were lost to history. An interesting thing that I noticed was that the crystal lights that illuminated the inside perimeter of the box flecked in the glas walls, making it look like the lights continue in space and touch the photo wall. Your own reflection was in the glass too, making it look like you were with the ones on the wall. I think that moment of reflection alludes to how if you don’t teach people about history, it is bound to repeat itself. The glass box makes you wonder, as it put you up on the wall, if history reap eats itself, will it be me this time who suffers?

All in all, I highly recommend this museum.

3/16 -Memories

So today was a fairly simple day. Go to the cathedral, the park, museum of memory, then eat. I’m really glad we got to go to the cathedral too. I’ve seen some cathedrals in Spain before and they are massive, even compared to the one we saw today, but I appreciated the use of space that this cathedral had. Like adding the crypt underneath the alters (I think). Which I also though the crypt was really cool how it shows a transition from the clean white marble, to the rougher, tan marble and wood hand rail ends and steps. I’m curious on why the hand rails were purple too. The only reason I could think of is it was supposed to be a wine like color, and the wood ends are like the wooden cups that Jesus would have drank from. Other than that it’s a mystery to me. The park we went to today was actually really cool, we took a walk around the whole thing after doing a sketch and it had some real interesting trees and features to it. It was a fun time. The memory museum today though. That got a little deep. On an architectural standpoint, I though it had really good spacing between each display and the path you would follow was easy to go through. As for my emotional state, it made me feel numb. I couldn’t read almost everything in the museum, but the images speak for themselves. Knowing that an entire country was changed in a single, devastating day, makes you think for a moment. I don’t know exactly all of the details, but I got enough to understand that a lot of people were torn apart during this time. Wether that be because they lost someone dear to them, or had to leave everyone dear to them. The museum captured what was to be felt and understood about its history, and I’m glad I was able to have this experience be a memory that I won’t forget.

Museum of memory

Picture outside the crypt

Picture inside the crypt

Days 6&7

Sketch of Santa Teresa from the Cathedral

My favorite parts of day six were the walking tour and also the trip to the beach. It was really cool to see all of the graffiti and drawings on the buildings. It’s a lot different to see businesses and residences covered in street art when I don’t see a lot of it back in Columbus and especially back home in the suburbs. The bright colors of the street art really complemented the bright hues buildings that stretched the hills of Valparaíso. The trip to the beach was actually a lot more fun than what I expected. I thought that the water was going to be a lot colder than what it actually was. I’ve never been to the beach where the waves have been so strong. My friends and I later that night went to Giratorio, a fantastic restaurant that had a rotating floor and piano player. It was kind of expensive but I honestly love eating all of the nice food that Chile has to offer. I was really happy that we were all able to go to the Cathedral of Santiago today after we weren’t able to go inside the other day. The Cathedral of Santiago was beautiful. I was surprised to see that there wasn’t a lot of stained glass. I’m wondering if this is because of the earthquake problem or just the style of the cathedral. The Museum of Memory had a lot of heavy material but I think that it was really well done. The exhibits were very simple which I find important when the material is very complex and heavy. Dinner tonight was not my favorite, however I feel good to be staying in tonight to get some work done before my free day tomorrow.

 

 

 

Sketching for Stress Relief

Today and yesterday were such peaceful and relaxing days. Yesterday we took the bus out to Valparaiso which was an awesome beach town. Pablo Neruda’s house was very interesting and it had great views of the city. I really enjoyed the colors and vibrant culture and art everywhere. I thought the waking tour was great and I really enjoyed the city’s use of section to its advantage. It was also nice to get the afternoon to enjoy the sun and the beach, which is something that us, Ohioans, needed greatly.

Today, we finally got to explore the inside of the cathedral in Plaza de Armas. There, I sketched the statue of Saint Santiago which was in the first niche in the nave wall. Next, we explored the Museum of Memory and had the rest of the day until dinner to explore and sketch more. I decided to sketch the exterior of the museum and also the Catedral Castrense de Chile. The rest of the day we spent in Quinta Normal Park. I really enjoyed the peacefulness of the park and really enjoyed just sitting for a little bit and observing everything happening in the park. I really liked today because I got to sketch a lot which is something that I’m starting to enjoy more and more. It’s something that I find relaxing and stress-relieving and it also allows me to document my interpretation of a space or object. I really enjoy sketching much more than I did before coming on this trip, and I plan on continuing sketching after this class to help relieve stress and give me an opportunity to be creative.

Becca, Lisa, Megan and I in Valparaiso.

Sketch of Pablo Neruda’s house in Valparaiso.

Sketch of the statue of Saint Santiago in the cathedra.

Sketch of the Museum of Memory.

Sketch of the Cathedral Castrense de Chile.

Art From The Before-It-Was-Cool Times

This is most likely a representation of a belt worn by a ball court player. You didn’t want to lose these games, trust me.

Having recently had the pleasure to study a history oft untouched by the general public, Mesoamerican and Andean art history, never did I suppose I would have the opportunity to apply that recently acquired knowledge in a tangible way.  Within the hustle and bustle about the day, I had forgotten the full itinerary.  It is safe to say that when I walked into the door of the Pre-Columbian Museum, backed by two friendly native perros, I was pleasantly surprised.  In fact, by the time I had reached the Chile Before Chile section, I was in “full geek out mode.”  But, I knew the fun was just beginning, and I made my way up to the second floor, past the absolutely stellar infographics of the Pre-Columbian cultures geographies and timelines.  This floor would hold objects that I was keenly familiar with, ones I had my former professor give me personal recommendations to search for about the complex.  I was like a kid in a candy store (this often happens with art museums) hunting for Nazca head pots, Taíno stone semis, and an incense burner from Teotihuacan.  Along the way too, I noticed how well the museum was laid out, shifting from one culture to the other without disrupting the flow of the space, and how natural light was successfully utilized throughout the building, even in the basement.  When the dust had settled, I had walked away with over 50 pictures of artifacts, and a memory of a field experience like no other!

The Highlights of Day 2

Hola everyone! I hope that you are all having as much fun as I am so far! I am already in love with this beautiful country and it is only day 2! The landscape of Chile is so lush and vibrant and being able to see so much green makes me a happy camper. Today was amazing and was an experience I’ll never forget. The pre-Columbian museum that we visited put me in awe because I thought the content of the museum was very riveting (my favorite pieces were the huge wooden sculptures and the quipus, or the knotted cords that the Incans used to store data, in the basement of the museum) and the design of the interior was quite spectacular as well. I loved how Radic played with light (using both natural and artificial) in a very ingenious way to emphasize certain pieces in the museum and draw your attention towards them. I found it to be quite special and from the many museums that I have been to, I’ve never seen one play with light in such a successful way like that. The details and materiality of the interior were very cool as well. One of the other things that I loved doing today was traveling to Cerro Santa Lucia. I hope that everyone gets a chance to go at least once on this trip to there because it was so gorgeous! You were able to get a 360 view of the entire city and the vegetation and the old structural elements blended beautifully together…just please be careful when you walk up the steps, they are definitely not up to American code! I am so excited for tomorrow to see and try new things and I hope to keep making many more memories! Side Note: if you are not aware of this (the group of people I was with were not) please look closely at the moon…It’s upside down! :O

Esculturas Femeninas de Madera in the Museo Chileno de Arte Pre Colombino

Day 2

After a long flight and a tired day, I woke up a little bit late today. I just missed the breakfast but still meet on time.

In the morning, it is cold. However, walking for a while, I feel much better. We went to downtown by subway and visit the La Moneda Cultural Center. Although the main space of the center is not open today, I was attracted by the gift shop. There’re amounts of interesting souvenirs. After that, we headed to PreColumbian Museum. I saw some pretty artwork and choose one of my favorite doing a sketch.

In the afternoon, we began our assignment. We were supposed to analyze the Plaza de Armas. My group is well-organized. I did the part of transportation while some people did the plan and section. I probably figured out the mode of transportation, the location of traffic light, the speed limit and traffic volumn of each road. It was not easy because the weather  was extremely hot and the sunshine was dazzling. Besides, we also analyzed two sweet. I did a plan and section respectively. I feel satisfied for my drawing but it can still be improved in following days.

One more thing impressed me a lot. Before dinner, I went to a yogurt store which is just near the hotel. Initially, I worry about how to order because of the language. However, to my surprise, the seller speak English to me! He is so nice and the yogurt is also tasty. I strongly recommend to you guys!

 

Two Days in 200+ Words

Our first two days in Chile were filled with so many things that I can’t simply pick one thing that sticks out. On our first day we went up Cerro San Cristobal on the cable car which was such an amazing experience and a great way to start out the trip. From the top of Cerro San Cristobal, there were amazing views that span the entire city. After taking the funicular down, we explored Park de la Infancia which was such a cool experience. The park was awesome and the design was great. I decided to sketch in a very shaded area with sand and grass mounds where kids were playing. It was such a vibrant space with the grass and sand borders and the rock retaining wall being painted a variety of bright colors. For dinner, we ate a late dinner at a pizzeria down the street and the waiter was very nice and made awesome recommendation for authentic Chilean options. Finally to end the night, we relaxed at the hotel restaurant on the patio and enjoyed the weather.

Today was yet another amazing and packed day. Our stops included La Moneda Palace and Cultural Center, Plaza de Armas, a variety of pedestrian streets, the Pre Colombian Museum, Cerra Santa Lucia, and Santa Pizza for dinner. The Pre Colombian Museum was one of the best museums I’ve ever been to. Not only was the architecture fantastic but the exhibits were awesome as well. Cerro Santa Lucia was probably my favorite thing of the day however. During our free time we decided to climb the “hill” which was definitely worth it thanks to the 360-degree views and the slushy we got at the top. The walk down was also great, and we ended the walk with a group picture in front of the hill. We then took the Metro by ourselves for the first time and we got to experience a metro performer. It was a guy, probably younger than us that hopped on a stop or two after us with a battery powered amp. He looked at us with a big grin on his face, said a few things in Spanish and proceed to rap to a beat that he played. It was honestly such a fun experience I couldn’t stop smiling the whole ride back. The restaurant we went to for dinner was fantastic. The pizza was great and the actually building itself was very cool also.

All in all, it has been a great two days! I’ve gotten to use my Spanish (which I thought I forgot), and I’ve had a lot of fun doing so. The people here are very friendly, or appear to be at least, and the culture is vibrant and fun. The food is great and I’ve had a lot of fun trying the traditional Chilean foods and drinks. The pace of life also seems to be slower here however it might just be because we haven’t experienced the weekdays yet. My 500 words simply can’t capture the culture and atmosphere I’ve discovered the last two days, so here are some pictures to help.

 

View from the top of Cerro San Cristobal

Area of the Infant Park that I sketched

Infant Park border fence that also acts as a play ground for kids

Chile before Chile exhibition

Today, we went to the Museo Chileno De Arte Precolombino. When I firstly step into the museum, I was embraced by the sunshine, it’s surprised that the sunshine is shaped into the building by angled roof structure. Then different exhibitions located on three floors, the most interesting one I found is the underground floor exhibition about Chile before Chile. I felt really impressed by the cultural influences how these original resources could turn into human works of art. Because the original material is mud, people start to shape it then fire it to make it hard with utility. As this exhibition helped me to explore more about the clay art. And one interesting point is how they place all the pottery into glass cabinet that have reflection on four sides, it’s not as clear as you can see the reflection from the mirror, but the sense of vague pottery are arranged by plain glass is amazing. Also, the supporting glass structure providing three levels of laying out the objects are beautiful. The art works of various heights are arranged on different levels, usually the bowls with least height is on the lowest level. That enables me to try to have the visual experience from various height levels. Here’s one sketch from comparing one single object from the others.

Day2 in Santiago

The first highlight for today is the breakfast in hotel is awesome! I really like the fruits in here and I never eat any melon sweeter than that. And the other thing that I am impressed is the metro.
It is not brand new but it remind me the subway in Bejing. They look so similar that I felt I was in China. The plane de armas crowed. Lots of people in the plaza. It is well designed with lots of trees so it felt comfortable when we seat under the canopies. The fountain in the middle in nice but there are lots of weird things happened there. Children played in the water. Pigeons and dogs took shower in there. Horses drank water. And a man washed his hair. The plaza makes me feel a little bit nervous because there was a group of people speaking loudly and I don’t understand Spanish and I cannot figure out what were they talking. It makes me feel more unsafe. But when we leave the plaza about two blocks away, the world felt back to safe. One more thing to mention, there are lots of dogs on streets and they are so cute!

 

 

3/12/17 It’s hot with snow-capped mountains

Though we are technically not counting today, 12 March 2017, as day two, I am considering it as such. Arriving to Santiago after an arduous plane ride, we were thrown into a bus and shoved into the city. After being 9+ hours in a plane, the last thing I wanted to do was stay up and explore however, immediately, reserve energy coursed in through my veins and I ventured in. The snow-capped Andes invade the skyline and the funicular allowed us to feel it evermore present. Though, it was absolutely a scary to be that high, hanging on to a thin wire, the sight from the funicular was a site to be hold! The city was so large and majestic: it’s size multiplied the higher we went.
Then, we rushed on to the bus once more and made our way to Parque de Los Infantes.I wished I was a small child again! The slides, border inclosed play area, and the tree houses were unfortunately not made for 20-year-old-somethings who really, really wanted to run around. Even still, I went on the top most slide and went down. My tailbone is still very unhappy with me.
On the second day, we rode the Metro (which is incredibly clean and easy to navigate, take notes New York) to sight-see around. We visited old Spaniard buildings and learned some cool, hip places around Downtown Santiago. Next, we went to the Pre-Colombian Museum. The museum was everything I could have possibly asked for! Radj’s designs not only made the space wonderful but also respected the times within the building. Since these pieces are centuries old, direct sunlight could permanently damage these one of a kind works thus, the careful usage of light truly made the space art historian approved.
Next we toured Plaza de Armas. With the sun beating down on us harshly and the crowds multiplying as the hour passed, I cannot say enjoyed the experience very much. However, the space itself proved to be extremely interesting in layout. As well as with the occupying streets, the diverse architecture, usually fluctuating between contemporary and Neoclassical, presented itself to be an extremely interesting clash.
On our own, a group if us climbed to Santa Lucia and witnessed some exceptional architecture. The steps were absolutely horrible but the sight was something out of a fairy tale. Lastly, tonight we were Kennedy’ed some pizza and my stomach will hate me tomorrow; I ate as much as my body could hold.
I’ll report tomorrow after my pizza coma has passed.