Between France & Morocco: Marrakech, Rabat, Fez, & Casablanca

June 1, 2018 · by Whitney Parker · in Artifacts

I wasn’t sure what to expect from Morocco, honestly. All I had ever learned about it was that it was a Muslim country, people spoke Arabic, Berber, and French, and that it was a former French colony. I came to learn that is a linguistically diverse, old country with a rich history. It was a cold country with a hot sun. Its people were warm and welcoming. We got lucky with the weather, however: our hottest day was only about 80 degrees, and it wasn’t too humid. It could have been much worse.

Visiting four cities in one week involves a lot of bus time. A lot. However, our trip across Morocco showcased the country’s history as well as its struggles with diversity. It also helped me realize my own transformations on this trip. The Morocco leg was special for a couple more reasons: 1. None of us had ever been there, and 2. It was Ramadan, so it was quieter during the day and became livelier after sundown and ftour (breaking the fast).

There were two main similarities between the three cities: the Medina (old city), the Mellah (old Jewish Quarter) and the Nouvelle Ville (new city). Each city had its own attractions: in Marrakech there was the Ben Youssef Madrasa, labyrinthine medina, and Majorelle Gardin; in Rabat there were ruins, the Mausoleum of Mohammed V, and the Hassan Tower, an unfinished mosque dating to the 12th-century; Fes had the King’s Palace in the mellah, narrow streets that lead you through its souk (market), and a fabulous ftour; and Casablanca had the only Jewish museum in the Arab world as well as the largest mosque in Africa.

The souks are what really pushed me out of my comfort zone. From leather goods to soccer jerseys to sweets to souvenirs, the souks had nearly anything you could imagine. We had to bargain with shopkeepers for anything that we wanted to buy. Being more reserved, I questioned buying anything at all until we got to Rabat. Something clicked, and I pushed myself to bargain. Perhaps it was encouraging to watch my friends bargain. I noted things they were doing and followed. Bargaining was also great French practice for me, and it

What many tourists may not realize in or outside of these cities, however, is that Morocco has high rates of poverty and illiteracy. Beyond the historic landmarks and tourist attractions is a government that is corrupted and at times repressive. Tourists also don’t see the linguistic diversity that can a disadvantage for some. We traveled to the Ourika Valley in the Atlas Mountains to an Amazigh (Berber)-speaking village. We visited a preschool and chatted with the school’s teacher. An education that teaches Moroccan Arabic is vital for students especially if they want to move to a larger city. The best education is found in expensive private or foreign schools which are accessible to few. For those who do go to university, it is difficult to find a job after graduation. Back in the village, students told us they wanted to become teachers and lawyers. In city suburbs like Sidi Moumen in Casablanca, there are recreational centers sponsored by NGOs like Idmaj where students can play sports and study as well as cultural centers like Uzine, where young adults can work on dance and theater projects. We met the Lions, a b-boy group who had ftour with us on our last night in Casablanca. They performed for us after ftour, and their performance turned into a dance party. It was a highlight of my three weeks abroad, and I felt like I was able to let go. I put down everything and danced, not worrying about anything around me. Academics fell into the background, and it was just all of us having fun for a few hours.

In Morocco and after I returned home, people often asked which country I preferred. Sometimes I said Morocco, and others I said France. This made me realize that each country had its pros and cons, and I loved them both for different reasons. Moroccans were warmer than the French were and more curious when I walked around. Rather than judgmental stares we encountered in France, we were often asked where we were from and were taught basic Arabic phrases and gestures. I started greeting people with “Salam Alaikum” rather than “Bonjour” and conversed with shopkeepers and guests we met in class and on our tours. I felt more comfortable as a foreigner in Morocco and felt less pressure to speak French “perfectly.” I was more open to people here, whereas in France I wanted to keep to myself and adhere more to French norms even though I’m not even French. Even on the plane to Morocco, I was more open to talking to people: I sat next to a Moroccan man and conversed with him throughout the 3-hour flight. I probably wouldn’t have done this had I been traveling back home, and I want to continue doing this when I travel. For me, this trip was the epitome of why students should travel: there’s a lot to learn by traveling somewhere new, observing, and learning about those countries and how they address issues like diversity and inclusion.