Before you store your gardening tools for the winter season, take time this fall to clean and care for them. The time and effort you put in now will keep your tools in tip top shape and extend their life.

Step 1- Clean your tools with a stiff bristle brush, wire brush, paint scraper, or blast of water to remove dirt and debris. Use steel wool to remove rust and sap. Or put a few drops of oil on a cotton rag and rub sap from tools and blades. Lightly sand wooden handles with a medium grit sandpaper to eliminate splinters. Wash tools with warm, soapy water and let them air dry. If it’s a sunny day, use the sunshine to dry your tools!

Step 2 – Disinfect tools with 70% alcohol (best for sharp blades) or a 10% bleach solution. Avoid routinely using bleach wipes because the bleach will corrode metal.

Step 3 – Sharpen your tools. You can get them professionally sharpened or do it yourself. For digging tools like spades, shovels, or hoes, use a Continue reading End of Season ….CLEANING YOUR GARDENING TOOLS →

Be sure to listen in to the interview with Jeanette Curtis regarding all the ways you as a family can give back to help out!! Lots of great ideas !! click on the link below to listen in !  https://u.osu.edu/thenews/2024/11/01/looking-for-ways-to-give-back-for-thanksgiving-fairfield-211-has-ideas/

This entire summer week after week, I felt like a broken record hoping and waiting for rain like all of you.    In August, I started talking about watering priorities in these weekly columns.   I had hoped I was being overly cautious and knew rains would come but they have not in any measurable quantities.

On September 11, OSU Extension Ag and Natural Resource mployees were given the opportunity to listen to several of our colleagues and specialists discuss lawn and landscape drought issues via a Landscape Drought update. Here are a few ‘take away” notes.

• Careful considerations for your water source..Well water, city water..How are you watering ?  The cost, the danger of well going dry?
• Think about watering slowly and carefully, so it can percolate thru the soil to the root zone especially as we send plants into the winter.
• Time of watering does not matter, just water!
• Trees planted in the last 2-3 years are most at risk, if adequate moisture is not received. Established trees will limp along because they have a better-established root zone.
• Needled trees and conifers will suffer most and some may not recover
• Use this drought as a way to look at your gardens—Is there a particular plant you just don’t like? Remove it to conserve water for the plants you do like?
• Do you have a sentimental favorite plant in your garden from a friend or relative? Focus on watering and caring for that plant especially during times of drought
• It is ok to give up on your annuals and maybe even your vegetable garden.
• Thinking about taking advantage of fall garden center sales…Think again!!! Planting will be difficult and soils may need to be amended and watering those plants in will be critical and mulching with 1 ½ – 2” of mulch is imperative. Just be prepared to do the work!
• Don’t stress turf by mowing – Brown Turf is dormant; Gray or White turf is dead. Try to get water onto the most important parts of your lawn.  And do not try to do a fall seeding into your lawn unless you are willing to water.
• The TAKE AWAY message is this drought may have long term effects that could be impactful in our lawns and landscapes into next year and beyond.

Please understand this is not to be a message of “doom and gloom” but the reality of the situation we are in. We can all remember and relate to prolonged periods with little rainfall, but we are looking at months/weeks with no rain.  Take care of what you already have in your garden and think about those plants that are your favorites..give them a long, cool drink before the winter winds begin to blow!

And just in case you are wondering…absolutely YES!!  I will be buying some fall pansies for some pots, they are my favorites and I will always find a way to water a pansy! because as farmers and gardeners that is just what we do..believe in a better tomorrow !

Lack of rainfall, prolonged record heat, dry caused many to simply give up that watering of containers, vegetables and so much more.  As this lack of rainfall continues to exist for many of use in the area, it might be time to think about the benefits of a watering plan.  What is most valuable in my landscape? Did I have new trees and shrubs planted this year, how can I keep them watered, especially if we head into a very dry Fall?  Should I try to water my lawn?   What about my vegetable garden?   Should I give up on my container plantings?

These are all good questions and I hope will help homeowners put some perspective in their late summer-fall water plans, especially if Mother Nature does not give us any needed rainfall.

TREES, SHRUBS, PERENNIALS – Think about watering those permanent plants first.    These include newly planted woody trees and shrubs; they need a thorough soaking throughout their root zones approximately once a week, assuming it has not rained that week. Newly planted perennials, rosebushes, and perennial vines also require attention. Water the base of plants to avoid getting leaves wet and reduce foliar diseases. Consider the use of soaker hoses or drip irrigation.  Water deeply and less often to promote deeper, healthy roots.   Add 2-3 inches of inches of shredded bark to the root zones of trees and shrubs to keep valuable moisture from evaporating. Mulch perennial or mixed borders with finely shredded material or compost that retains moisture and improves soil texture.

LAWNS-Although all plants need water to be healthy and grow, some—like lawns—actually need less water than we thin. Turf grass can go dormant. It will turn yellow, but the crown of the plants will remain alive with just ½ inch of water over several weeks. Grass will green up as soon as normal rainfall returns. Consider raising your mower height  to 3-3.5 inches to result in a denser, healthier lawn.  As small as they are, longer grass blades mean more photosynthesis and stronger, deeper grass roots. The grass blades also shade the grass crowns and soil, keeping them cooler during times of dry weather.

VEGETABLE GARDEN – The vegetable garden needs one inch of rain per week.  By using a simple rain gauge or following weather reports, you can determine if your garden received one inch of rain over the past week.   One inch of rain is a lot of water. For a 100 square-foot area, one inch of rain is 62 gallons. Figure out the actual size of your garden by measuring length and width in feet. Multiply those numbers to get total square footage. If a garden is 20 feet by 30 feet (600 square feet), after a week without rain, it would need 372 gallons of water.  You might receive rain, but not a full inch, over the course of the week. If it rained twice, but the total amount of rain was only three-eighths of an inch, you would need to supply the other five-eighths of an inch of rain. Five-eighths of 372 gallons is 232 gallons. Water gardens on sandy soils twice a week, supplying one-half inch of water (31 gallons per 100 square feet) each time.

HANGING BASKETS and CONTAINER PLANTINGS 

Containers can dry out very quickly. Daily or even twice-daily watering may be necessary. Feel the soil to determine whether or not it is damp. If the potting mix feels dry 1 inch below the surface, it is time to water. Apply water until it runs out the drainage holes. If the pot dries out too much you should immerse it in water to resoak the soil mix. Containers will need frequent checking as the plants grow and temperatures become hotter. Watering wands are good tools for difficult-to-reach baskets and window boxes. They extend your reach and produce a gentle shower.

Frequent watering flushes nutrients from the soil quickly, so frequent fertilizing is also necessary. Liquid fertilizers or timed-release fertilizers are the easiest methods of application.

WHEN TO WATER – Knowing when to water is key.   Early morning to allow leaves to dry and reduce foliar diseases. Feel the top 6 inches of soil. Dry? Time to water.  By watering in the morning, their foliage will have a chance to dry completely during the day before being moistened again from nighttime dew. Plants whose foliage never dries completely can develop mildew problems more quickly.

Some gardeners place a small can or other measuring gauge within the root zone of a tree so they can see when 1 inch of water has accumulated. The root zone is a circle that runs around the tree, extending from the trunk directly outward to the end of the lowest branch tips. The most effective watering devices are the slow soaker or drip hoses, plastic tree bags, or the small sprinklers that distribute water close to the ground, reaching the entire root zone.

Just knowing the what, when, where and how of watering in your garden or landscape is key to growing healthy plants and conserving our precious water supply.

Spittle Bug Frass on Strawberry

Spittlebugs are known for the frothy spittle mass they produce while feeding on plants. Spittlebug nymphs pierce the plant stems and suck plant juices.

They feed on a variety of plants like ornamental grasses, roses, chrysanthemums, clover, strawberries, herbs and many other garden plants.

In most cases, especially on annuals and perennials, spittlebug feeding is not damaging to plants.  If too many spittlebugs are present, feeding can cause leaves to lose their shape.

It is easy to identify spittlebugs by the “spittle masses” up to ¾” in length on your plants.  They have soft, elongated bodies up to ¼ inch long.

Managing spittlebugs is unnecessary.  They are found in very small numbers. They are seen on the plants for a very short time. They cause very little damage.  To get rid of spittlebugs remove weeds near your gardens to remove one of their food sources.  Physically remove them by hand or spray them with a strong blast of water to dislodge nymphs from the plants.

Pesticides are not effective against spittlebugs as the nymphs are protected inside their spittle masses from any pesticide sprays.

Wondering if it is too late to plant vegetables this summer? The good news: no, it is not! In fact, late July and August is the time to begin planting a fall vegetable garden. Many vegetables grown in the spring also grow well in the fall. In early August there are enough days to plant bush beans, carrots, or beets to harvest before frost. Other vegetables that mature quickly like lettuce or spinach can be planted in succession beginning now. You can also consider cold tolerant vegetables like kale, radishes, turnips, mustard, Swiss chard, or kohlrabi.

Two important pieces of information to know as you determine when to plant seeds: 1) the average date of the first frost, which is mid-October, and 2) the days to maturity for each crop which is listed on the seed packet. Always add a couple extra weeks since as days get shorter, growth slows. Therefore, as of August 1, we have approximately 75 days to

Got leftover seeds and empty spaces in your garden, plant a fall garden!!

average first frost.

Before planting prepare the garden bed by removing any debris from earlier crops and remove any weeds. Then till the soil and add organic matter and/or fertilizer. Keeping the seeds moist for germination and protecting young seedlings from excessive heat are probably the greatest challenges when planting in midsummer. Be sure to watch closely and provide shade and/or mulch to conserve water in the soil. Then watch your vegetables grow as you extend the gardening season.

Vegetables that grow well in the spring will also do well in the fall like bush beans, carrots, and beets. Keep in mind vegetables that will mature quickly include lettuce and spinach. Some of the vegetables that are cold tolerant include kale, radishes, turnips, swiss chard, and kohlrabi, broccoli and cauliflower.

Take time now to plant a mid-summer garden and extend the gardening season!

Magnolia Scale Source: University of Kentucky

Magnolia Scale are native “soft scales. They are called soft scales because the females are hidden beneath a helmet-like soft leathery covering that t provides some protection. However, they are easily crushed.  Rest easy, magnolia scale only infests members of the Magnolia genus. Magnolia scale has the greatest impact on non-native magnolias and associated hybrids compared to native magnolias. Native magnolias are more resistant perhaps because of natural defenses that developed through a shared evolutionary history with magnolia scale. Non-native magnolias that are most commonly infestation include star magnolia lily magnolia and saucer magnolia.

Soft scale adults and nymphs insert their piercing-sucking mouthparts into phloem vessels. They tap plant sap to acquire both carbohydrates which provide energy and amino acids which are the building blocks for proteins and enzymes. However, the phloem sap holds only trace amounts of amino acids compared to vast amounts of dissolved carbohydrates. This means the scale must process a large quantity of sap to extract the necessary amino acids. They discharge the excess sugar-rich liquid from their anus in the form of “honeydew” which is just a nice name for scale diarrhea.  

Magnolia scales are notorious for producing copious quantities of sticky, drippy honeydew. The sugary liquid may cause heavily infested trees to literally buzz with insect activity as flies, bees, and wasps seek a sweet treat.  A high percentage of the flies are often members of the blow fly family. Their maggots may have a taste for decaying flesh, but adults like sweets. The honeydew drips onto the leaves and stems of the host plant as well as understory plants to eventually become colonized by black sooty molds. Although the molds cause no harm to the overall health of infested trees, the blackened leaves can reduce the aesthetic appeal of heavily infested trees. Continue reading Magnolia Scale Abounds →

While English ivy (Hedera helix) is a nice ground cover it can quickly get out of control.  It is   a non-native woody, perennial vine that has been used extensively in landscapes.  English ivy reproduces from seed that is dispersed by birds when they eat the fruit. It can also spread vegetatively and can root from cut vines or stems.

English Ivy, stem and leaves Source: USDA

The plant grows vertically as it attaches to various structures, but it also becomes a ground cover when it can’t grow upwards. When left to grow unchecked, it will climb up into trees and eventually cover the foliage, which kills the branches. It also adds considerable weight to the tree making it more susceptible to limb breakage or complete failure. When English ivy is utilized as a ground cover, it can grow up against landscape shrubs and trees. This can make them susceptible to rodent damage by providing hiding places where the voles and mice can feed undisturbed. English ivy growing vertically on buildings uses root-like structures to anchor itself. This makes it extremely difficult to just pull off of the structure, and can eventually damage the structure itself. Finally, it is a reservoir host for the bacterial leaf scorch that is a serious disease that affects oaks, maples and other native trees.

This is a tough plant to manage once it has established itself as a ground cover and vine. Hand-pulling or mowing as much as possible is a good mechanical start. Young regrowth foliage is more susceptible to an herbicide application because the leaves are less waxy. Glyphosate (Roundup and others) or triclopyr (Garlon) can be applied to young foliage or to the stem/vine by cutting and applying directly into the wound. The “glove of death” can also be used for precise foliar application. If you are not familiar with this method, put on a chemical resistant glove (nitrile and some rubber ones can be used) then put on a fabric or cotton glove. Apply concentrated glyphosate or triclopyr on the outer glove then touch the plant.

The squash vine borer is a key pest of summer and winter squash, gourds and pumpkins. It is also seen in cucumber, gourd, and melon in Ohio.  Unfortunately, it is usually noticed only after it has done its damage. Symptoms appear in mid-summer when a long runner or an entire plant wilts suddenly. Infested vines usually die beyond the point of attack.  

Squash Vine Borer Frass

Sawdust like frass near the base of the plant is the best evidence of squash vine borer activity. Careful examination will uncover yellow brown excrement pushed out through holes in the side of the stem at the point of wilting. If the stem is split open, one to several borers are usually present. The caterpillars reach a length of 1 inch and have a brown head and a cream-colored body. 

The adult squash vine borer is a stout dark gray moth with ‘hairy’ red hind legs, opaque front wings, and clear hind wings with dark veins. Unlike most moths, they fly about the plants during the daytime, appearing more like a paper wasp than a moth. 

This insect overwinters as a full-grown larva or a pupa one to two inches below the soil surface. Adult moths begin to emerge about the time the plants begin to run, and moth flight continues through mid-August.

The small brown eggs, laid individually on leaf stalks and vines, hatch in seven to 10 days. The newly hatched larva immediately bores into the stem. A larva feeds for 14 to 30 days before exiting the stem to pupate in the soil. There are 1 to 2 generations per year.  

Management – The key to squash vine borer management is controlling the borers before they enter the stem. Once inside the vine, insecticidal control is ineffective. Poor timing of sprays is the usual cause of inadequate control. Very early signs of larval feeding indicate that other eggs will be hatching soon. Use two insecticide applications 7 days apart to control newly hatching larvae and continue to monitor for additional activity. Sprays need to penetrate the canopy to cover the vines to be effective.

Home gardeners may have some success with deworming the vines. At the first signs of the sawdust like frass on vines, slice lengthwise near where the damage is found and remove the borers. Cover stems immediately with earth. Sanitation is also important. Vines should be removed from the garden and composted after harvest is complete to prevent the remaining borers from completing development. Burying a few nodes along each vine will encourage rooting at these nodes. This will lessen the impact if squash vine borers girdle the base of the vine.

 Of course, ALWAYS READ AND FOLLOW LABEL DIRECTIONS FOR SAFE USE OF ANY PESTICIDE!

This recipe is being shared from the Fairfield County SNAP Education Program  Celebrate Your Plate Series.   Preparation time 15 minutes

TURKEY CRANBERRY WRAP

1 large whole wheat tortilla

2 tablespoons reduced fat cream cheese

2 tablespoons reduced sugar dried cranberries

½ apple, cored and thinly sliced

2 oz. sliced oven-roasted turkey breast

2 tablespoons chopped red onion

½ cup fresh baby spinach

Place tortilla on a plate and spread with cream cheese.  Top with dried cranberries and sliced apple.  Layer turkey on top of fillings.  Sprinkle with chopped red onion. Top with spinach and any additional toppings.  Tightly roll by tucking 2 inches on each side inward toward the center.  Then grip the bottom, untucked side of the tortilla and roll forward.   Cut in half and serve.   Nutritional Information:  Calories 380,  Total Fat 11g, Sodium 920 mg Total Carbs 59g, Protein 16g