Lack of rainfall, prolonged record heat, dry caused many to simply give up that watering of containers, vegetables and so much more.  As this lack of rainfall continues to exist for many of use in the area, it might be time to think about the benefits of a watering plan.  What is most valuable in my landscape? Did I have new trees and shrubs planted this year, how can I keep them watered, especially if we head into a very dry Fall?  Should I try to water my lawn?   What about my vegetable garden?   Should I give up on my container plantings?

These are all good questions and I hope will help homeowners put some perspective in their late summer-fall water plans, especially if Mother Nature does not give us any needed rainfall.

TREES, SHRUBS, PERENNIALS – Think about watering those permanent plants first.    These include newly planted woody trees and shrubs; they need a thorough soaking throughout their root zones approximately once a week, assuming it has not rained that week. Newly planted perennials, rosebushes, and perennial vines also require attention. Water the base of plants to avoid getting leaves wet and reduce foliar diseases. Consider the use of soaker hoses or drip irrigation.  Water deeply and less often to promote deeper, healthy roots.   Add 2-3 inches of inches of shredded bark to the root zones of trees and shrubs to keep valuable moisture from evaporating. Mulch perennial or mixed borders with finely shredded material or compost that retains moisture and improves soil texture.

LAWNS-Although all plants need water to be healthy and grow, some—like lawns—actually need less water than we thin. Turf grass can go dormant. It will turn yellow, but the crown of the plants will remain alive with just ½ inch of water over several weeks. Grass will green up as soon as normal rainfall returns. Consider raising your mower height  to 3-3.5 inches to result in a denser, healthier lawn.  As small as they are, longer grass blades mean more photosynthesis and stronger, deeper grass roots. The grass blades also shade the grass crowns and soil, keeping them cooler during times of dry weather.

VEGETABLE GARDEN – The vegetable garden needs one inch of rain per week.  By using a simple rain gauge or following weather reports, you can determine if your garden received one inch of rain over the past week.   One inch of rain is a lot of water. For a 100 square-foot area, one inch of rain is 62 gallons. Figure out the actual size of your garden by measuring length and width in feet. Multiply those numbers to get total square footage. If a garden is 20 feet by 30 feet (600 square feet), after a week without rain, it would need 372 gallons of water.  You might receive rain, but not a full inch, over the course of the week. If it rained twice, but the total amount of rain was only three-eighths of an inch, you would need to supply the other five-eighths of an inch of rain. Five-eighths of 372 gallons is 232 gallons. Water gardens on sandy soils twice a week, supplying one-half inch of water (31 gallons per 100 square feet) each time.

HANGING BASKETS and CONTAINER PLANTINGS 

Containers can dry out very quickly. Daily or even twice-daily watering may be necessary. Feel the soil to determine whether or not it is damp. If the potting mix feels dry 1 inch below the surface, it is time to water. Apply water until it runs out the drainage holes. If the pot dries out too much you should immerse it in water to resoak the soil mix. Containers will need frequent checking as the plants grow and temperatures become hotter. Watering wands are good tools for difficult-to-reach baskets and window boxes. They extend your reach and produce a gentle shower.

Frequent watering flushes nutrients from the soil quickly, so frequent fertilizing is also necessary. Liquid fertilizers or timed-release fertilizers are the easiest methods of application.

WHEN TO WATER – Knowing when to water is key.   Early morning to allow leaves to dry and reduce foliar diseases. Feel the top 6 inches of soil. Dry? Time to water.  By watering in the morning, their foliage will have a chance to dry completely during the day before being moistened again from nighttime dew. Plants whose foliage never dries completely can develop mildew problems more quickly.

Some gardeners place a small can or other measuring gauge within the root zone of a tree so they can see when 1 inch of water has accumulated. The root zone is a circle that runs around the tree, extending from the trunk directly outward to the end of the lowest branch tips. The most effective watering devices are the slow soaker or drip hoses, plastic tree bags, or the small sprinklers that distribute water close to the ground, reaching the entire root zone.

Just knowing the what, when, where and how of watering in your garden or landscape is key to growing healthy plants and conserving our precious water supply.

Spittle Bug Frass on Strawberry

Spittlebugs are known for the frothy spittle mass they produce while feeding on plants. Spittlebug nymphs pierce the plant stems and suck plant juices.

They feed on a variety of plants like ornamental grasses, roses, chrysanthemums, clover, strawberries, herbs and many other garden plants.

In most cases, especially on annuals and perennials, spittlebug feeding is not damaging to plants.  If too many spittlebugs are present, feeding can cause leaves to lose their shape.

It is easy to identify spittlebugs by the “spittle masses” up to ¾” in length on your plants.  They have soft, elongated bodies up to ¼ inch long.

Managing spittlebugs is unnecessary.  They are found in very small numbers. They are seen on the plants for a very short time. They cause very little damage.  To get rid of spittlebugs remove weeds near your gardens to remove one of their food sources.  Physically remove them by hand or spray them with a strong blast of water to dislodge nymphs from the plants.

Pesticides are not effective against spittlebugs as the nymphs are protected inside their spittle masses from any pesticide sprays.

Wondering if it is too late to plant vegetables this summer? The good news: no, it is not! In fact, late July and August is the time to begin planting a fall vegetable garden. Many vegetables grown in the spring also grow well in the fall. In early August there are enough days to plant bush beans, carrots, or beets to harvest before frost. Other vegetables that mature quickly like lettuce or spinach can be planted in succession beginning now. You can also consider cold tolerant vegetables like kale, radishes, turnips, mustard, Swiss chard, or kohlrabi.

Two important pieces of information to know as you determine when to plant seeds: 1) the average date of the first frost, which is mid-October, and 2) the days to maturity for each crop which is listed on the seed packet. Always add a couple extra weeks since as days get shorter, growth slows. Therefore, as of August 1, we have approximately 75 days to

Got leftover seeds and empty spaces in your garden, plant a fall garden!!

average first frost.

Before planting prepare the garden bed by removing any debris from earlier crops and remove any weeds. Then till the soil and add organic matter and/or fertilizer. Keeping the seeds moist for germination and protecting young seedlings from excessive heat are probably the greatest challenges when planting in midsummer. Be sure to watch closely and provide shade and/or mulch to conserve water in the soil. Then watch your vegetables grow as you extend the gardening season.

Vegetables that grow well in the spring will also do well in the fall like bush beans, carrots, and beets. Keep in mind vegetables that will mature quickly include lettuce and spinach. Some of the vegetables that are cold tolerant include kale, radishes, turnips, swiss chard, and kohlrabi, broccoli and cauliflower.

Take time now to plant a mid-summer garden and extend the gardening season!