Magnolia Scale Source: University of Kentucky

Magnolia Scale are native “soft scales. They are called soft scales because the females are hidden beneath a helmet-like soft leathery covering that t provides some protection. However, they are easily crushed.  Rest easy, magnolia scale only infests members of the Magnolia genus. Magnolia scale has the greatest impact on non-native magnolias and associated hybrids compared to native magnolias. Native magnolias are more resistant perhaps because of natural defenses that developed through a shared evolutionary history with magnolia scale. Non-native magnolias that are most commonly infestation include star magnolia lily magnolia and saucer magnolia.

Soft scale adults and nymphs insert their piercing-sucking mouthparts into phloem vessels. They tap plant sap to acquire both carbohydrates which provide energy and amino acids which are the building blocks for proteins and enzymes. However, the phloem sap holds only trace amounts of amino acids compared to vast amounts of dissolved carbohydrates. This means the scale must process a large quantity of sap to extract the necessary amino acids. They discharge the excess sugar-rich liquid from their anus in the form of “honeydew” which is just a nice name for scale diarrhea.  

Magnolia scales are notorious for producing copious quantities of sticky, drippy honeydew. The sugary liquid may cause heavily infested trees to literally buzz with insect activity as flies, bees, and wasps seek a sweet treat.  A high percentage of the flies are often members of the blow fly family. Their maggots may have a taste for decaying flesh, but adults like sweets. The honeydew drips onto the leaves and stems of the host plant as well as understory plants to eventually become colonized by black sooty molds. Although the molds cause no harm to the overall health of infested trees, the blackened leaves can reduce the aesthetic appeal of heavily infested trees. Continue reading Magnolia Scale Abounds →

While English ivy (Hedera helix) is a nice ground cover it can quickly get out of control.  It is   a non-native woody, perennial vine that has been used extensively in landscapes.  English ivy reproduces from seed that is dispersed by birds when they eat the fruit. It can also spread vegetatively and can root from cut vines or stems.

English Ivy, stem and leaves Source: USDA

The plant grows vertically as it attaches to various structures, but it also becomes a ground cover when it can’t grow upwards. When left to grow unchecked, it will climb up into trees and eventually cover the foliage, which kills the branches. It also adds considerable weight to the tree making it more susceptible to limb breakage or complete failure. When English ivy is utilized as a ground cover, it can grow up against landscape shrubs and trees. This can make them susceptible to rodent damage by providing hiding places where the voles and mice can feed undisturbed. English ivy growing vertically on buildings uses root-like structures to anchor itself. This makes it extremely difficult to just pull off of the structure, and can eventually damage the structure itself. Finally, it is a reservoir host for the bacterial leaf scorch that is a serious disease that affects oaks, maples and other native trees.

This is a tough plant to manage once it has established itself as a ground cover and vine. Hand-pulling or mowing as much as possible is a good mechanical start. Young regrowth foliage is more susceptible to an herbicide application because the leaves are less waxy. Glyphosate (Roundup and others) or triclopyr (Garlon) can be applied to young foliage or to the stem/vine by cutting and applying directly into the wound. The “glove of death” can also be used for precise foliar application. If you are not familiar with this method, put on a chemical resistant glove (nitrile and some rubber ones can be used) then put on a fabric or cotton glove. Apply concentrated glyphosate or triclopyr on the outer glove then touch the plant.

The squash vine borer is a key pest of summer and winter squash, gourds and pumpkins. It is also seen in cucumber, gourd, and melon in Ohio.  Unfortunately, it is usually noticed only after it has done its damage. Symptoms appear in mid-summer when a long runner or an entire plant wilts suddenly. Infested vines usually die beyond the point of attack.  

Squash Vine Borer Frass

Sawdust like frass near the base of the plant is the best evidence of squash vine borer activity. Careful examination will uncover yellow brown excrement pushed out through holes in the side of the stem at the point of wilting. If the stem is split open, one to several borers are usually present. The caterpillars reach a length of 1 inch and have a brown head and a cream-colored body. 

The adult squash vine borer is a stout dark gray moth with ‘hairy’ red hind legs, opaque front wings, and clear hind wings with dark veins. Unlike most moths, they fly about the plants during the daytime, appearing more like a paper wasp than a moth. 

This insect overwinters as a full-grown larva or a pupa one to two inches below the soil surface. Adult moths begin to emerge about the time the plants begin to run, and moth flight continues through mid-August.

The small brown eggs, laid individually on leaf stalks and vines, hatch in seven to 10 days. The newly hatched larva immediately bores into the stem. A larva feeds for 14 to 30 days before exiting the stem to pupate in the soil. There are 1 to 2 generations per year.  

Management – The key to squash vine borer management is controlling the borers before they enter the stem. Once inside the vine, insecticidal control is ineffective. Poor timing of sprays is the usual cause of inadequate control. Very early signs of larval feeding indicate that other eggs will be hatching soon. Use two insecticide applications 7 days apart to control newly hatching larvae and continue to monitor for additional activity. Sprays need to penetrate the canopy to cover the vines to be effective.

Home gardeners may have some success with deworming the vines. At the first signs of the sawdust like frass on vines, slice lengthwise near where the damage is found and remove the borers. Cover stems immediately with earth. Sanitation is also important. Vines should be removed from the garden and composted after harvest is complete to prevent the remaining borers from completing development. Burying a few nodes along each vine will encourage rooting at these nodes. This will lessen the impact if squash vine borers girdle the base of the vine.

 Of course, ALWAYS READ AND FOLLOW LABEL DIRECTIONS FOR SAFE USE OF ANY PESTICIDE!