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The Winter 2024 Master Gardener Newsletter is here!

Decorating the house with fresh greenery is one of the oldest winter holiday traditions.

In this edition:

  • Decorating safely with fresh greens indoors
  • Connie’s Corner A message from our MG Coordinator
  • Perennial plant of the year
  • Fairfield County MGs recognized
  • Learning Never Ends gardeners win blue ribbons at fair
  • Winter virtual book clubs
  • One MG’s Christmas traditions
  • Gardener’s gift idea
  • Holiday recipes
  • Waxed amaryllis bulbs
  • Holiday leftover safety
  • Autumn mysteries revealed
  • Importance of watering the landscape
  • Winter mulching
  • Fall cleaning of gardening tools
  • Putting the garden to bed for winter
  • How the tomato became a vegetable
  • Agriculture technology featuring Trevor Bowie
  • A review of the MGV State conference
  • See what’s happening in and around the garden

Find the entire newsletter linked here in a PDF printable format.

End of Season ….CLEANING YOUR GARDENING TOOLS

Before you store your gardening tools for the winter season, take time this fall to clean and care for them. The time and effort you put in now will keep your tools in tip top shape and extend their life.

Step 1- Clean your tools with a stiff bristle brush, wire brush, paint scraper, or blast of water to remove dirt and debris. Use steel wool to remove rust and sap. Or put a few drops of oil on a cotton rag and rub sap from tools and blades. Lightly sand wooden handles with a medium grit sandpaper to eliminate splinters. Wash tools with warm, soapy water and let them air dry. If it’s a sunny day, use the sunshine to dry your tools!

Step 2 – Disinfect tools with 70% alcohol (best for sharp blades) or a 10% bleach solution. Avoid routinely using bleach wipes because the bleach will corrode metal.

Step 3 – Sharpen your tools. You can get them professionally sharpened or do it yourself. For digging tools like spades, shovels, or hoes, use a Continue reading End of Season ….CLEANING YOUR GARDENING TOOLS

Keeping it Real for the Holidays

– Christine Gelley, Agriculture and Natural Resources Educator, Noble County OSU Extension

A fresh tree can draw up 2 qts or more water on the first day in the tree stand.

Bringing the outdoors in as decoration is a popular tradition this time of year. We just finished our annual Holiday Wreath Making Workshop where we did just that and what a fun time we always have. Our local tree farms will be opening after Thanksgiving! Can you believe it is that time already? I encourage you to shop early this year and be prepared to take good care of your live tree so it lasts in beautiful condition until New Year’s Day. The drought of 2024 may impact the availability of trees and their longevity if not pampered in your home.

For some, décor that looks like real plant material is a must and for others, real is the only way to go. I respect both options but given the choice, I will go for real evergreen material for our tree, wreaths, swags, and garlands. If you like to keep it real for the holidays like I do, keep Continue reading Keeping it Real for the Holidays

Looking for ways to give back for Thanksgiving?

Be sure to listen in to the interview with Jeanette Curtis regarding all the ways you as a family can give back to help out!! Lots of great ideas !! click on the link below to listen in !  https://u.osu.edu/thenews/2024/11/01/looking-for-ways-to-give-back-for-thanksgiving-fairfield-211-has-ideas/

 

 

 

 

Leave the Leaves

– Christine Gelley, Agriculture and Natural Resources Educator, Noble County OSU Extension

Leaf litter can be composted.

While there are many tasks on a gardeners list in the fall, the “clean up” that is best for our ecosystem may not look all that “clean”. Leaving residue on the soil is beneficial in many ways, especially deciduous tree leaf litter. Leaf litter may seem like a nuisance, but the litter is a valuable resource that I hope you will consider recycling.

Leaves contain valuable nutrients for soil health. Healthy soils provide plants and animals with healthy habitats. Keep the nutrients held within fallen leaves in use by reincorporating them into your landscape in the form of compost or mulch.

It is important to take Continue reading Leave the Leaves

Return of the Stinkbug!

– Christine Gelley, Agriculture and Natural Resources Educator, Noble County OSU Extension

Don’t be surprised when you find these in the house!

It’s stink bug season again!

The brown marmorated stink bug (BMSB) is back in 2024 causing frustration for homeowners and farmers across America. These shielded, flying, stout, and brown insects are thought to have invaded the US from Asia in the mid-90s. Since the first one was positively identified in 2001 by Penn State they have spread across the country and now pose threats worth $21 billion to specialty food crops annually. They cause damage to many food crops including fruits, vegetables, and grains.

There are many different kinds of less common stink bugs in our region that including beneficial, predatory stink bugs. Stink bugs do not Continue reading Return of the Stinkbug!

The Fall 2024 Master Gardener Newsletter is here!

Ag Center Zinnias in full bloom!

In this issue:

  • Connie’s Corner: Current drought issues
  • Fall MGV photos
  • Cover crop seeds available
  • Registration open for State Conference
  • Beneficial Insects 101 offered
  • Helping Hands in the Garden project
  • Lunch & Learn series beginning
  • Seasonal Roasted pumpkin seeds
  • Time to order garlic
  • Developing a priority watering plan
  • Fire safety concerns during drought
  • Cover crops
  • The invasive Amur Corktree
  • Chaos gardening
  • Featured Book: Fabulous Fall Gardens by Jane Milbocker
  • In/Around the Garden

Find the entire newsletter linked here in a PDF printable format.

Dry Weather Continues On

This entire summer week after week, I felt like a broken record hoping and waiting for rain like all of you.    In August, I started talking about watering priorities in these weekly columns.   I had hoped I was being overly cautious and knew rains would come but they have not in any measurable quantities.

On September 11, OSU Extension Ag and Natural Resource mployees were given the opportunity to listen to several of our colleagues and specialists discuss lawn and landscape drought issues via a Landscape Drought update. Here are a few ‘take away” notes.

  • Careful considerations for your water source..Well water, city water..How are you watering ?  The cost, the danger of well going dry?
  • Think about watering slowly and carefully, so it can percolate thru the soil to the root zone especially as we send plants into the winter.
  • Time of watering does not matter, just water!
  • Trees planted in the last 2-3 years are most at risk, if adequate moisture is not received. Established trees will limp along because they have a better-established root zone.
  • Needled trees and conifers will suffer most and some may not recover
  • Use this drought as a way to look at your gardens—Is there a particular plant you just don’t like? Remove it to conserve water for the plants you do like?
  • Do you have a sentimental favorite plant in your garden from a friend or relative? Focus on watering and caring for that plant especially during times of drought
  • It is ok to give up on your annuals and maybe even your vegetable garden.
  • Thinking about taking advantage of fall garden center sales…Think again!!! Planting will be difficult and soils may need to be amended and watering those plants in will be critical and mulching with 1 ½ – 2” of mulch is imperative. Just be prepared to do the work!
  • Don’t stress turf by mowing – Brown Turf is dormant; Gray or White turf is dead. Try to get water onto the most important parts of your lawn.  And do not try to do a fall seeding into your lawn unless you are willing to water.
  • The TAKE AWAY message is this drought may have long term effects that could be impactful in our lawns and landscapes into next year and beyond.

Please understand this is not to be a message of “doom and gloom” but the reality of the situation we are in. We can all remember and relate to prolonged periods with little rainfall, but we are looking at months/weeks with no rain.  Take care of what you already have in your garden and think about those plants that are your favorites..give them a long, cool drink before the winter winds begin to blow!

And just in case you are wondering…absolutely YES!!  I will be buying some fall pansies for some pots, they are my favorites and I will always find a way to water a pansy! because as farmers and gardeners that is just what we do..believe in a better tomorrow !

IS IT TIME TO THINK ABOUT A PRIORITY WATERING PLAN?

 

Lack of rainfall, prolonged record heat, dry caused many to simply give up that watering of containers, vegetables and so much more.  As this lack of rainfall continues to exist for many of use in the area, it might be time to think about the benefits of a watering plan.  What is most valuable in my landscape? Did I have new trees and shrubs planted this year, how can I keep them watered, especially if we head into a very dry Fall?  Should I try to water my lawn?   What about my vegetable garden?   Should I give up on my container plantings?

These are all good questions and I hope will help homeowners put some perspective in their late summer-fall water plans, especially if Mother Nature does not give us any needed rainfall.

TREES, SHRUBS, PERENNIALS – Think about watering those permanent plants first.    These include newly planted woody trees and shrubs; they need a thorough soaking throughout their root zones approximately once a week, assuming it has not rained that week. Newly planted perennials, rosebushes, and perennial vines also require attention. Water the base of plants to avoid getting leaves wet and reduce foliar diseases. Consider the use of soaker hoses or drip irrigation.  Water deeply and less often to promote deeper, healthy roots.   Add 2-3 inches of inches of shredded bark to the root zones of trees and shrubs to keep valuable moisture from evaporating. Mulch perennial or mixed borders with finely shredded material or compost that retains moisture and improves soil texture.

LAWNS-Although all plants need water to be healthy and grow, some—like lawns—actually need less water than we thin. Turf grass can go dormant. It will turn yellow, but the crown of the plants will remain alive with just ½ inch of water over several weeks. Grass will green up as soon as normal rainfall returns. Consider raising your mower height  to 3-3.5 inches to result in a denser, healthier lawn.  As small as they are, longer grass blades mean more photosynthesis and stronger, deeper grass roots. The grass blades also shade the grass crowns and soil, keeping them cooler during times of dry weather.

VEGETABLE GARDEN – The vegetable garden needs one inch of rain per week.  By using a simple rain gauge or following weather reports, you can determine if your garden received one inch of rain over the past week.   One inch of rain is a lot of water. For a 100 square-foot area, one inch of rain is 62 gallons. Figure out the actual size of your garden by measuring length and width in feet. Multiply those numbers to get total square footage. If a garden is 20 feet by 30 feet (600 square feet), after a week without rain, it would need 372 gallons of water.  You might receive rain, but not a full inch, over the course of the week. If it rained twice, but the total amount of rain was only three-eighths of an inch, you would need to supply the other five-eighths of an inch of rain. Five-eighths of 372 gallons is 232 gallons. Water gardens on sandy soils twice a week, supplying one-half inch of water (31 gallons per 100 square feet) each time.

HANGING BASKETS and CONTAINER PLANTINGS 

Containers can dry out very quickly. Daily or even twice-daily watering may be necessary. Feel the soil to determine whether or not it is damp. If the potting mix feels dry 1 inch below the surface, it is time to water. Apply water until it runs out the drainage holes. If the pot dries out too much you should immerse it in water to resoak the soil mix. Containers will need frequent checking as the plants grow and temperatures become hotter. Watering wands are good tools for difficult-to-reach baskets and window boxes. They extend your reach and produce a gentle shower.

Frequent watering flushes nutrients from the soil quickly, so frequent fertilizing is also necessary. Liquid fertilizers or timed-release fertilizers are the easiest methods of application.

WHEN TO WATER – Knowing when to water is key.   Early morning to allow leaves to dry and reduce foliar diseases. Feel the top 6 inches of soil. Dry? Time to water.  By watering in the morning, their foliage will have a chance to dry completely during the day before being moistened again from nighttime dew. Plants whose foliage never dries completely can develop mildew problems more quickly.

Some gardeners place a small can or other measuring gauge within the root zone of a tree so they can see when 1 inch of water has accumulated. The root zone is a circle that runs around the tree, extending from the trunk directly outward to the end of the lowest branch tips. The most effective watering devices are the slow soaker or drip hoses, plastic tree bags, or the small sprinklers that distribute water close to the ground, reaching the entire root zone.

Just knowing the what, when, where and how of watering in your garden or landscape is key to growing healthy plants and conserving our precious water supply.

 

Have you encountered a spittlebug in your garden?

Spittle Bug Frass on Strawberry

Spittlebugs are known for the frothy spittle mass they produce while feeding on plants. Spittlebug nymphs pierce the plant stems and suck plant juices.

They feed on a variety of plants like ornamental grasses, roses, chrysanthemums, clover, strawberries, herbs and many other garden plants.

In most cases, especially on annuals and perennials, spittlebug feeding is not damaging to plants.  If too many spittlebugs are present, feeding can cause leaves to lose their shape.

It is easy to identify spittlebugs by the “spittle masses” up to ¾” in length on your plants.  They have soft, elongated bodies up to ¼ inch long.

Managing spittlebugs is unnecessary.  They are found in very small numbers. They are seen on the plants for a very short time. They cause very little damage.  To get rid of spittlebugs remove weeds near your gardens to remove one of their food sources.  Physically remove them by hand or spray them with a strong blast of water to dislodge nymphs from the plants.

Pesticides are not effective against spittlebugs as the nymphs are protected inside their spittle masses from any pesticide sprays.