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A. Prenzlauer Berg and Kreuzberg are two of the most polarizing neighborhoods in Berlin, yet each is soaked with rich culture and defined human beings. At first glance, Prenzlauer Berg is a wealthy, yuppie area with rich women walking around in expensive clothes. Yet, while taking a closer look at the sheer walls of Prenzlauer Berg, a story emerges. Covering the walls of each building there are large amounts of graffiti, street art. The most common pieces reflect the citizens’ feelings of their neighborhood, for they are upset with the complete turn around of their city. Once a beautiful, artistic and hipster area is now the center for wealth. The street art gives the people a way of retaliating and expressing themselves. In addition to the art the paints the city, culture can be found in a simple apartment complex. Once a water tower before 1933, we were told of the transition of this building in 1933 into a concentration camp by the Nazis. Now this water tower has been turned into an apartment complex. This idea in itself confuses me, yet I understand the appeal. It is obvious that the city of Berlin, especially eastern Berlin is covered with horrible memories of the Nazis regime, coupled with the over powering GDR, thus there are going to be areas of previous mass murders everywhere. This fact can not be forgotten because it contributes to the culture today. Berlin is full of life now, full of art and full of excitement. The past only strengthens the city’s present.

Kreuzberg, on the complete other hand, is a grungy neighborhood that is home to the rebels. Walking through the streets made me anxious at first. We entered the neighborhood in one of the most dangerous areas in the city, welcomed by cops and dogs. Our tour guide, Alex, was quick to explain the culture and atmosphere of his home. These individuals that reside in Kreuzberg protest about every other week about any issue that bothers the community. This neighborhood is a good indication of how the city of Berlin believes in: free speech and free expression. In a sense, this idea of free speech is what bridges the two neighborhoods together.

This topic of differing neighborhoods was a striking subject to me because of the diverseness of Berlin. Here, we see that there are two completely different areas that are just a few short train rides away, yet the people and atmosphere that makes up their areas are completely different. In Prenzlauer Berg, there are fancy restaurants, high end shopping and multiple coffee shops, yet Kreuzberg is home to a variety of food and restaurants that include Mediterranean, Turkish, Indian, Italian and many others. I believe that food is a great indicator of the culture of a place, and seeing that there are complete differences between the two areas depicts the polarization of Berlin itself.

Between the food, the people and the history of each neighborhood, we have gotten a better sense of what type of city Berlin actually is. It is expressive, artistic and beautiful; it is home to a diverse amount of people; it is culturally rich and teaches the public of the past. We chose this topic not only because it gave us a better understanding of our home of a month, but because in order to understand an area, one must dig deep into the average life of the locals, coupled with history.

B.

By: Rachel Bules & Melissa Ma

At first glance, Kreuzberg is strikingly different from any culture I am used to in America. The punk rock movement is very evident in the people who hang out there; I noticed a lot of piercings, tattoos, and punk-rock style clothes. One of my favorite things about Kreuzberg is that it is a very musically oriented place. I would have loved to spend more time there and hang out at famous bars and clubs where celebrities frequented and performed. Although Columbus has a big music scene, it is definitely more mainstream than Kreuzberg’s music scene.

Another difference from the culture I am used to in Ohio is the huge influence that Turkish citizens have due to their history as migrant workers in the area. There is an abundance of Turkish restaurants in Kreuzberg, which was a new experience for me. I had minced lamb with yogurt sauce, garlic, and onions after our Kreuzberg tour and it was one of my favorite meals in Berlin. I was not expecting to fall in love with Turkish food while I was here, but it happened and I am not mad about it. Turkish migrants in Berlin invented döner kebap, and that is going to be one of the things I will miss most about being here because I eat it so often.

A similarity I noticed between Columbus and Kreuzberg is their shared love for art. Although the art is not necessarily the same, I do feel like a lot of artists live and work in Columbus and display their artwork in galleries and sometimes on the streets. Columbus is not as covered in graffiti as Kreuzberg, but it certainly exists.

Another clear similarity between Kreuzberg and Columbus is that they are both popular places for young people to live. It is certainly not only young people who live here, but they are both attractive areas for students and recent graduates to call home. It makes sense because I feel like a lot of young people like to live in urban areas after college. If I lived in Berlin, I do not think I would be interested in living in Kreuzberg but I would probably spend a lot of time there.

One of my favorite similarities between Kreuzberg and Columbus is that although they are very urban areas, they are also very green. Part of what makes Berlin so beautiful is that it incorporates a lot of nature in with the urban setting, and I feel like Columbus is similar in that way. The Spree runs by Kreuzberg and the Olentangy runs next to Columbus, so there are a lot of pretty waterfronts to enjoy.

Kreuzberg and Columbus are similar in that they are havens for refugees. When we visited Kreuzberg on our alternative tour, we stopped next to the river and saw the huge graffiti mural saying that refugees are welcome. That is something that surprised me about Berlin; the American media makes it seem like no one wants refugees but I have learned since being here that most Germans are very accepting and welcoming and want to help Syrian refugees. Columbus is the second largest settling spot for Somali refugees in America, which I found to be interesting. They contribute in huge ways to the culture and economy of Columbus, which is similar to the way that refugees affect the flow of culture and politics here.

I did not think it would be easy to think of so many similarities between Columbus and Kreuzberg, but I am surprised by all of the parallels I could find. It is certainly a different culture over here than back home, but now after experiencing Kreuzberg, I am sure I will go home to Columbus and be reminded of Berlin.

Kreuzberg has a deep significance to the history of Berlin and the people who live there. We already mentioned that Jewish settlers founded Kreuzberg, which is interesting given what we have learned this week about the history of Jewish people in Berlin. Kreuzberg, literally meaning “cross hill” in English, is the point of highest elevation in Berlin. It was named for the monument built by architect and artist Karl Friedrich Schinkel, which features a cross at the top. The Prussian National Monument for the Liberation Wars is located in Viktoriapark.

Interestingly, Kreuzberg used to be a very rural and open area of Berlin. Currently, Kreuzberg is a bustling and busy area, and a popular place for young people to live. Despite being one of the smallest areas of Berlin, it has one of the highest population densities. This is a popular place for people to live because of comparatively low rent and the abundance of restaurants and popular nightlife scene.

Kreuzberg has an especially unique nightlife scene. It was known as the heart of the punk rock movement in the 1960s and 70s. David Bowie performed and hung out at SO36, a famous punk rock bar in Kreuzberg, and recorded music in Berlin as well. Bowie revealed in 2003 that the Berlin Wall based his famous song “Heroes” on one of his friend’s relationships that survived separation. Bowie shared a flat with Iggy Pop for a few years, and they became music icons in Berlin.

Another thing we learned on our alternative tour of Kreuzberg was that it was a central spot for protests and movements by the citizens. Although we were not there to witness any, Alex said Berliners love to gather and protest things they are not happy about, and often end up inciting change.

Although Kreuzberg is a very crowded and popular place to live, it is not the highest in socioeconomic class. One of the most fascinating parts of Germany is the way they take care of their kids when they are not in school. We were fortunate enough to be able to visit a youth club one afternoon last week. Six adults work there and coordinate activities for kids, like musical lessons and sports. It was so much fun to do a capoeira class while we were there. I think it would be very beneficial for America to emphasize programs such as these, especially in lower-class neighborhoods. The kids looked like they had a lot of fun and were able to be social with each other, plus it kept them occupied by teaching them valuable skills and keeping them off the streets. It was unfortunate when their director shared with us that their budget continues to get cut every year, since it seems like their program does a lot of good for the local kids.

“This city has been sold out.” These are the quotes that loom over the neighborhood of Prenzlauer Berg. The dramatic change in the people, atmosphere and outlook of Prenzlauer Berg between the 1960’s and today is uncanny; the once arty, free spirited neighborhood has been gentrified and turned into the hub of yuppie, wealthy individuals. The beginnings of Prenzlauer Berg allowed for untamed expression, beautiful art and incredible imagination. It was home to peaceful protests, eventually leading to the destruction of the Berlin Wall. Prenzlauer Berg gave people hope, spirit and a sense of home. Walking through the streets of Prenzlauer Berg, we saw an overwhelming amount of graffiti covering the walls of buildings. This street art, just as the one above, gives voice to the original inhibitors of Prenzlauer Berg. Not only are they characteristic of the peaceful protest movement, but they play a huge role in Berlin’s society; the images are representative of the peoples’ concerns, thus they are marking their city with their own troubles.

The superficiality of Prenzlauer Berg ignites the anger of such street artists. With the beautiful, new architecture and the expensive restaurants, it is self evident that the neighborhood has changed. Yet, there are still traces of history strewed throughout the area. Once a concentration camp and torture chamber for opponents of the Nazis has now turned into an apartment complex for the residents. Initially I was mortified by the sheer though of living near an ex-Nazi area, but then I realized that it is part of Berlin’s history. If I were to get upset or uneasy over each detail of the horrific events that happened in Germany, especially Berlin, there would not be many places that would comfort me. I think that between seeing this massive building looming over me, and visiting other areas of Berlin, I have realized that it is so important to understand the history of an area and accepting it to truly understand the culture.

Roaming through both the streets of Prenzlauer Berg and Kreuzberg has shaped my understanding of Berlin, along with increasing my understanding of German culture.  The self awareness of control the people of the city of Berlin has is uncanny, from peaceful protests to destroy the Berlin wall to riots in order to keep an elderly woman in her home, this city is full of eccentric, beautiful human beings.

Works Cited

“Berlin Kreuzberg.” Hotel Berlin Ferienwohnung Berlin, Tickets, Flüge, Souvenirs. N.p., n.d. Web. 19 May 2016.

“Das Impressum.” Das Impressum. N.p., n.d. Web. 19 May 2016.

“David Bowie’s Berlin.” Fotostrasse. N.p., n.d. Web.

“Kreuzberg.” Wikipedia. Wikimedia Foundation, n.d. Web. 26 May 2016.

Mayer, Verena. “Berlin-Kreuzberg – Wo Protest Auch Immer Ein Bisschen Party Ist.” Sueddeutschede Panorama RSS. N.p., n.d. Web. 26 May 2016.

“SO36.” SO36. N.p., n.d. Web. 19 May 2016.

Wasserturm

Prenzlauer Berg and Kreuzberg both have rich histories that helped them cultivate their present-day characteristics. Kreuzberg is currently known for its cultural diversity; the mesh of cultures was brought about in the 1800s when Kreuzberg was founded by a group of Jewish settlers. Kreuzberg literally means “cross-hill,” named after a monument built by famous German architect Karl Friedrich Schinkel in 1821.

Kreuzberg became a popular settling spot for Turkish guest workers. Berlin needed these guest workers to rebuild after WWII, and they provided a new population of young men that Berlin sorely lacked after losing so many soldiers in the world wars. The Turkish influence was so influential that the area was known as Little Istanbul, and the Turkish influence is still strong today in the population as well as the restaurants and other businesses in the area.

Kreuzberg was the poorest sector of West Berlin when the Berlin Wall was still intact. Today, it is still one of the lowest-income areas in Berlin, but that has not stopped young people from flocking to live there. Kreuzberg is a popular living destination due to recently refurbished and spacious lofts, ample concert venues and nightclubs, and a huge array of restaurants and shopping opportunities.

Kreuzberg is well known for its music, but it is especially well known for the huge punk rock movement that took place there. The children of American soldiers brought the hip-hop and punk rock culture to Berlin. One of Kreuzberg’s iconic punk rock bars is called SO36, which is a reference to their postal code, Südost. This bar was frequented by stars such as Iggy Pop and David Bowie in the past, and is a quintessential part of Berlin’s legendary punk rock and nightlife scene.

Kreuzberg celebrates its colorful culture once a year at Karneval der Kulturen. Fortunately, we were able to attend the festival last weekend and it was a really awesome experience. The streets were lined with tents selling delicious specialties and products from countries all around the world.

Kreuzberg is a community unlike any other we have ever experienced. The way that it came to be, due to an influx of so many different people and their cultures, created one of the most diverse melting pots of all the neighborhoods in the world.

Prenzlauer Berg, on the other hand, began as the hub for artists, hippies and anti-war protesters. In the 1990s this area was a safeguard for those who supported a peaceful movement to remove the Berlin wall; these “hipsters” embarked on a new culture in Eastern Germany, bringing art, style and expression to the neighborhood. However, there has been a dramatic change in the culture of this area. Previously, these artists and middle class workers dominated the neighborhood, filling the city with civil rights activism, literary advancements and artistic strength. Since the time of the Nazi’s there had been strong opposition to such national socialism; in addition, after the war the streets flooded with painters, photographers and actors, depicting the liberalism of the area.

Rich historical events flood Prenzlauer Berg, including the Nazis use of this neighborhood as a base for concentration camps. Wasserturm, a once running water tower, had been turned into a concentration camp and used by the Nazis until 1952. Currently this ex-concentration camp has been turned into apartments for rent, thus indicating the wealth obsessed vibe of the neighborhood. Additionally, in 1947, Prenzlauer Berg became part of the Soviet sector, then becoming the capital of the German Democratic Republic. Locals took advantage of the prime location to hold peaceful protests, eventually leading to protests against the Berlin wall.

At about the same time, living conditions were cheap, resulting in these residential buildings becoming attractive to artists whom do not make much money. In complete contrast, the streets of Prenzlauer Berg are now clean, bright and extravagant, depicting the new “high culture” of the area. The gentrification of this neighborhood led to expensive restaurants, beautiful mothers and luxurious toys. In turn, the opposition of such yuppiness was projected by the locals. Graffiti covers the walls of Prenzlauer-Berg (along with the rest of Berlin), expressing their angst toward the influx of wealth and a materialistic mentality. “The city is sold out” is the one phrase that stood out to me, indicating that Prenzlauer-Berg, once home to creativity and an organic sense of community, has now turned into some playground for the well-off.

The juxtaposition between these two neighboring areas is a sheer indication of the diversity of Berlin. With such a rich history, each neighborhood has been shaped in a way that reflects its past.
Work Cited:

“Berlin Kreuzberg.” Hotel Berlin Ferienwohnung Berlin, Tickets, Flüge, Souvenirs. Web. 19 May 2016.

“Das Impressum.” Das Impressum. Web. 19 May 2016.

“SO36.” SO36. Web. 19 May 2016.

Kuhrt, Nicola. “Szeneviertel Vor Der Wende: Als Der Prenzlauer Berg Noch Wild War – SPIEGEL ONLINE.” SPIEGEL ONLINE. N.p., n.d. Web. 19 May 2016.

One of the most characteristic and interesting parts about Berlin is the diversity and abundance of the many different neighborhoods. Each train stop opens us up to a new and complex array of shops, restaurants, and residences.

On our first day, we did an “alternative tour” of two starkly different Berlin neighborhoods: Prenzlauer Berg and Kreuzberg. Both were teeming with very different kinds of people. Our tour guide Alex described Prenzlauer berg as the “hipster” area where young, rich, attractive people lived. The restaurants in the area were very diverse and fancy; Alex mentioned that Bill Clinton had stopped at one of them a few weeks ago.

One of the most fascinating parts of Prenzlauer berg section of our tour was that the most expensive rent was in a building that used to be utilized as a concentration camp for political prisoners. The cylindrical Wasserturm sits atop a hill and was acoustically designed so that the screams of prisoners being tortured in the subterranean room would travel upwards and echo around the area. Now, less than 100 years later, the same building is one of the most coveted apartment buildings. A few students expressed dismay at this; how could anyone feel comfortable living in a building where people used to be tortured and killed? However, we think it’s a huge sign of progression that Germany is able to repurpose these areas of sadness and turn it into a way to build their new societies. If Germany (and any other country for that matter) refused to use the areas where tragedies happen, there would be a lot of unused real estate on this planet.

Kreuzberg was the polar opposite of Prenzlauer berg in almost all aspects. Emerging from the U-Bahn, we were immediately greeted by several police officers and a police dog. Alex cautioned us that crazy people might come up to us, and alluded to Kreuzberg having a higher crime rate than most parts of Berlin. Although it’s not somewhere we would like to be alone at night, yet we still really enjoyed seeing Kreuzberg and all of the diversity that it offered. Something that surprised us about the street art in the Kreuzberg was that a lot of it was very positive about accepting refugees. It’s interesting because the media, especially in America, would have us believe that no one wants refugees. However, since being in Berlin, it seems like most people are very welcoming to everyone here.

Despite their proximity, Kreuzberg and Prenzlauer Berg offer very different things to the overall culture of Berlin. Prenzlauer Berg offered a wide span of restaurants, but not much diversity among residents. On the other hand, Kreuzberg was not a nicer area, but the diversity was very interesting and important to the culture.

References:

Rick Steves Europe. “Berlin, Germany: Trendy Prenzlauer Berg.” Online Videoclip. Youtube. Youtube 4 March 2015.