Bye Bye Berlin: My Final Days Abroad

Well, the last leg of the trip has come to a close. It’s such a bittersweet feeling to be finished with such an amazing adventure. I truly have had the greatest experience during my time with the World War II study abroad program and could not have asked for a better learning opportunity. Berlin was a very interesting city to travel to. It was not, at all what I expected. Having enjoyed the quaintness of German Village in good old Columbus Ohio, I thought that Berlin would have the same feel; old, traditional, and rustic with cobblestone streets and people playing the polka while you enjoy some schnitzel. However, I found it to be quite the opposite. Berlin is a booming metropolitan city with skyscrapers, modern buildings, and Turkish Donor places on every corner. I was surprised to see people of many different cultural backgrounds either working in or visiting the city. You could see graffiti or street art around every corner, on buildings, bridges, pieces of the Berlin wall, or even on the subways. Underneath all of this fresh and vibrant façade however, is a deep and rooted history of turmoil, destruction and war. Everywhere you looked in Berlin, you could spot a reminder of World War II, whether it be the entrance to an old train station left as it was after bombings, bullet holes in fronts of government buildings, little stepping stones to remember those who where arresting during the holocaust, and many other small reminders of the devastation left behind.  I found it interesting, and humbling to see these small reflections of the war. If you walked through Berlin but did not really look, you would feel the same as if you were walking through Chicago or New York City. But, when you really stopped to observe, the history of this place was ever present.

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One of the most eye opening and sobering places we’ve visited on this trip was Sachsenhausen Concentration Camp just outside Berlin. Learning about the Holocaust in books and movies and classes is one thing. Seeing the actual places where these atrocities occurred is something I will never forget. Walking through the gates of Sachsenhausen made my stomach turn. Looking out, I saw where the prisoners stood for hours a day during roll call, expose to the elements, I saw the tight and insufficient quarters where thousands lived and worked and suffered, and I saw where many were marched down, into the unknown trenches to never return. This experience provided me with a sense of reality. It is hard to put into context the atrocity that was the Holocaust, but seeing where these events occurred made it more real and really made me think. I feel this this example is why we went on this trip and why this program is one of the best Ohio State has to offer. You can read and learn about history, events, and peoples all you want but actually seeing these things, these places, first hand provided me with a deeper appreciation and understanding of World War II and the history that made the world what it is today!

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Das Ende

As we flew away from the Parisian skyline, our final destination loomed ahead. Berlin, the heart of the Third Reich and focal point of the Cold War. As with Paris, people gave me a less than favorable impression going into it with the city being referred to as, “ugly,” “Communist-blocesque,” or “just go to Munich instead.” Oh boy howdy did Berlin just shatter those misconceptions. I loved it, favorite city on the trip by far – it beats London simply because London was way too expensive (shout out to Greece for tanking the Euro). The culture, history, even food, were just fantastic. In addition, the monumental task of remembering the past is approached in an effective and brutally honest manner.

Approaching the wrongdoings and crimes of a society’s past is an incredibly difficult duty to preform. It’s oftentimes easy to distance oneself, thinking “I’ll never do anything like that; in that situation I would do the right thing.” While honorable, this mindset quickly dissolves in the social and political climate created by the Nazi’s. The museum the Topography of Terror showcases the their ability to maintain this atmosphere through the brutal use of the Gestapo and SS. Taking you through the rise of those organizations within the Nazi party to their ruthless and horrific tactics and finally the repercussions for those in charge, this museum spares no detail. It includes the murderous persecution of all political opposition plus the “undesirables” (Jews, Roma, homosexuals, etc.) and their large role within the Holocaust. This is presented in an incredibly exhaustive text heavy exhibition with pictures. There is no altering of the historical narrative and no hiding of details. The museum seems to accept the fact that the men behind these organizations were German. They know that these men were in some way responsible for the death of millions. The museum takes this burden and turns it into education, letting those who visit the horrors perpetrated by these organizations. The end of the museum was particularly disturbing to me. It showed the major players in both the Gestapo and the SS and the fates they met. Most of the time, many of the more low profile members who were just as much at fault as Himmler ended up facing short prison sentences or even no ramifications at all. It was troubling and even frustrating to see this. Why did they get away? It could possibly be due to an inability to confront the past, which should highlight the danger of not doing so.

This idea of historical remembrance and presentation of a narrative was one that confronted us throughout the trip. The sites from London to Berlin really showcased how nations come to terms of the past, whether it is the victors (England), the conquered/liberated (France) or the aggressors/defeated (Germany). Paired with my American upbringing and education I realized there is no straightforward answer in history. Everything has an angle; everyone has a bias – big or small. The danger does not lie in those differences, as they are inevitable. But I believe societies should know their wrongdoings and should attempt to come to terms with them. These could range from the killing of civilians in the bombing campaign over Normandy or something on a much larger scale like the Holocaust. Educate people about them, let them know what happened 70 years ago, so killing and suffering on that scale won’t happen again.

This trip really has opened up my eyes to these ideas in addition to some amazing cultures. Traveling to London, Paris, Berlin and even Normandy is something I can cross of my bucket list. It has been a truly unforgettable trip with an amazing group and I will forever be thankful for this experience.

France

Coming to terms:

We all know it is difficult to accept shame. Admitting your wrongdoing and can easily be replaced with blaming other factors and that appears to be, from my experience in France’s museums, their attitude in coming to terms with their role in the deportations of their own citizens to concentration, labor, and death camps controlled by the nazis.
Caen was the first museum where I noticed this motif. That museum never even mentioned Vichy France. In lieu of calling it a collaborating government, they chose to say Vichy France was a “Free France”and the rest was “Occupied France”. Never in this museum was the deportation of Jews mentioned or referenced.

The second place I noticed this was in Paris with the placement and style of the holocaust memorial/Shoah museum. To begin with, France did not decide to dedicate and recognize it’s role in the holocaust until the 1960’s under Charles DeGaulle. And even with that, the memorial is left in a corner of where the river splits. As Tess gave her site report in front of it, we could still barely recognize what the low to the ground white rock was meant to memorialize. The rest was left underground and unfortunately we didn’t have enough time to see inside. In front of that were several trees and bushes as if to hide it’s view from the street. If I wasn’t being led by the group I would’ve simply walked past it without even noticing it. The Shoah is equally buried out of sight within the city. To Paris’s credit, it’s within its historically Jewish district, which seems appropriate. Except for the fact that it’s not a widely traveled to area of Paris. There is only street parking and it is not advertised at all. Yes, France has built a museum dedicated to remembering how hundreds of thousands of Jews were deported to camps by French hands, but it is almost hidden within a district that has very little traffic, activity, and tourism. It’s not even on a major road or given it’s own block. The Shoah is in between two smaller side streets and pushed up against another building. There is almost a sense of reluctance to memorialize the horrific truth about what happened to French Jews. With no garden, grand entrance, or lawn for this museum it would be easy to dismiss the Shoah as the significant and impactful memorial it is. The armed guards protecting it are the only indications that its important.

As I walked through the museum, I was deeply moved by the honesty and shocking truth about France’s role in the holocaust. In seeing the inside the museum it was easy to see the France has owned up to it’s role and is deeply sorrowful for it’s actions, which is commendable. But that sorrow and shame of their role is seemingly not wanting to be known to the public. In keeping the Shoah and the memorial in enclosed and out of the way areas it seems as though France doesn’t want you to see that shameful side of the country’s history.

Something Old, Something New

Over the last five days, I have explored various museums and memorials within the limits of Berlin, Germany and its suburbs. Examples of such places include the Soviet War Memorials, the Wannsee House, the Topography of Terror Museum, the Olympic Stadium, Sachsenhausen concentration camp, the German Historical Museum, the Russian/German Museum, the Fuhrer-bunker, and the site of the Potsdam Conference. Compared to its counterparts in England and France, the Berlin sites concentrated much more heavily on not only the early consolidation of National Socialist power but also the expansionism of the Third Reich through annexations and invasions. Particularly, I found both the Topography of Terror Museum and the Wannsee House to be the most fascinating of all places our group visited.

Built on the ruins of the former Gestapo/SS headquarters, the Topography of Terror Museum thoroughly documented the rise of Heinrich Himmler and his Schutzstaffel to national prominence. Having extensively studied Himmler and his SS/police task force for our seminar class, I already had an intellectual head start on my fellow students going through the exhibit. Despite this advantage, it took me almost twice as long as everyone else to get through the numerous displays because of the abundance of documents regarding the Nazi leaders that I did not have available during my research. While the museum did not really teach me anything new regarding either Himmler’s ascent or the establishment of the Reich Main Security Administration, it did bring to the light the horrors committed by the SS and Police in individual countries. This successfully portrayed just how deadly and brutal World War II was for every European country in terms of the racially prejudiced German invaders.

Additionally, the Wannsee House, the infamous location of the conference regarding the implementation of the Final Solution, impressed me. This was mostly due to the wonderful tour guide that led us through the grounds. The Final Solution to the Jewish Question constituted a significant portion of my thesis on Himmler’s impact on the Nazi regime. Therefore, I had a premature belief on the significance of the Wannsee Conference. I found myself stifled by the opinions of our tour guide regarding which Nazi she believed was most responsible for the Holocaust. Because her choice of Joseph Goebbels contrasted to mine of Heinrich Himmler, I took what she said incredibly serious as to see where her proof was. She never supported her hypothesis, so I intend to email her as soon as time permits. Seeing the actual room in which Heydrich, Muller, and Eichmann stressed the logistical implementation of the Holocaust to other Nazi officials was surreal. Earlier in the semester, I read a wonderful book by Christopher Browning on the Final Solution, and Wannsee Conference was a central focus. It was indeed frightening to see the actual location in person rather than just reading about it thousands of miles away in Columbus.

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The Wansee House

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Himmler and his SS

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Remnants of Berlin Wall

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Former Site of Gestapo Headquarters

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The Reichstag

Overall, I considered the historical museums in Berlin to be the most interesting because they showed a more nationalistic interpretation of the Nazi war machine and its influences on the Holocaust. Furthermore, the post-war influences of the Soviet Union within a divided Germany were evident through both the memorials to fallen Russian soldiers and the presence of a German/Russian museum, which focused on the unstable relationship of the two powers in the mid twentieth century. While Berlin may not have been the prettiest or most lively of cities we visited, it definitely had historical museums with the most thorough and accurate information.

Fourth Blog Post – Berlin

For me, my expectations for Berlin were distinctly different than those I had for the first two big cities I was able to experience, London and Paris. London and Paris were cities renowned for their history and beauty, and not that Berlin is not, but it simply isn’t thought of as on the same level. As for Berlin, I was most excited to see what remnants remained from World War II and the Nazi regime, as well as how the war and how it was fought by the Germans would be portrayed in the various museums I knew we would be visiting. After experiencing French museums and their glorification of resistance during the war, I was interested to see if in Germany I would see the same thread of glorified resistance, and if the museums we would visit would truly give an unbiased look into what happened in Germany under the Nazis. In this, I was surprised, in a positive way.

After seeing the, in my opinion, total over-glorification of the French resistance, I was very pleased by how the Nazis, their crimes, and those who resisted have been portrayed in Germany. The first museum we visited, and my favorite one in Germany, was the German Historical Museum. The portrayal of the progression of Germany from the Weimar Republic, through the rise of Hitler, World War II, and the end of the war, was not only completely unbiased, but arguably the most thorough and factual display of information I have seen throughout the entire trip.

Among the most powerful experiences of our entire time in Europe has to be our visit to the Sachsenhausen Concentration Camp, situated just outside Berlin in the town of Orienburg. Knowing that most of the concentration camps throughout Nazi-Europe were destroyed totally, it was incredible to see one as preserved as Sachsenhausen. Beginning with the gate, indorned with the iconic “Arbeit Macht Frei”, ironically meaning “work makes you free”, Sachsenhausen was a humbling experience.  Although most of the barracks no longer exist, their exact placement in the camp was marked off and made it easy to imagine what the camp once looked like. The hardest part of the camp to see, and the most humbling experience of the trip thus far was walking through where the gas chamber was, and seeing the extremely well preserved crematoria. Knowing I was standing where so many lives ended was chilling. Even more chilling is the thought that amongst all deaths in the Holocaust, Sachsenhausen is truly just a drop in the bucket. Having learned so much about the Holocaust throughout the course of the trip, having been to Wannsee and numerous museums, it brought it all full circle being at Sachsenhausen, and it was an experience I will never forget.

Bayeux & Normandy: Crepes, cow’s and craters

World War II had elements in each country I saw. Memorials in the Toronto airport, refugees in Ireland, the veteran memorials and museums all throughout Britain and London, and memorials throughout Normandy.  It really felt like a World War after seeing this.

Being in France,  it has been the first time I’ve been in a country that had a foreign language.  I know very little French, and some of the locals are way more patient and accommodating than others. It doesn’t take long to find glares and stares  when our big group is together.  We are loud without trying.

The Normandy museum was hard to digest.  Some details and parts were very well done, and others were very aggravating or passive.  Things did not seem to mesh well. The giant, colored statue right outside the stark stone and mirrored glass did not work. Even the signs on the statue contradicted themselves.  It was not necessarily that the museum showed different opposing viewpoints,  but it did in a way that did not make it clear how they were related.

The odd statue with a plaque discussing how this is depicting what is considered sexual assult

The odd statue with a plaque discussing how this is depicting what is considered sexual assult

The museum seemed to focus on the path to the war. Even entering the museum, the visitors were funneled in and black, mirrored glass was above and reflected down to show the visitors entering.  Inside,  visitors were lead down in a circular descent into a dark, echoing globe with Hitler and chanting surrounding them.

The stark museum entrance

The stark museum entrance

A portion focused on the French empire, and that was interesting to see.
The film watched towards the end, I enjoyed.  It showed multiple perspectives of the same thing at the same time. Germans preparing and Americans arriving. And it also showed the beaches then and immediately switched to film from the quiet beaches now. That left a huge impact.  There was no narrating, only images. I was glad they did this since it was a museum with visitors with many languages. No translation was needed, and that was very powerful.

One issue with the translation and foreign interpretation came from the museum’s presentation on Pearl Harbor. It was suggested that Roosevelt did not prevent Pearl Harbor to hasten the entry of the war and stated that there was no evidence to support that claim, but they said it anyway.  The phrasing was very rude and patronizing, and infuriating as a result. I was not alone in thinking that this museum had handled a few things such as this poorly.

 

Utah Beach had an atmosphere that I can’t describe. The rolling banks and sea grass were broken up by barbed wire, and memorials made the beaches feel like hallowed ground.

Weaving through the exhibits with artifacts picked up from the beach at the connected museum, it was hard not to get emotional.  Personal diaries and letters and photos of the deceased men were mixed in with weapons and uniforms and made it human.

The most impacting point was walking upstairs to the windows where it became level with the ground.  Old barbed wire and German defenses laid where they were placed all those years ago.

The view that stopped me in my tracks

The view that stopped me in my tracks

The whole little village leading to Utah beach seemed to wholeheartedly accept the history and had WWII mannequins throughout windows. The phrase “welcome to our liberators” was printed on some windows there and on windows in Bayeux. I can’t help but wonder if the locals treated us so negatively because some tourists take this as a praise to themselves and are less than humble in their conduct with the French.

This was the sort of depiction of the local reception of the Americans

This was the sort of depiction of the local reception of the Americans

St. Mere cathedral,  where the famous John Steele’s parachute was caught,  was centered in the little town.  The museums were small and in a campus format,  and were well organized and personal,  being privately owned.

The depiction of John Steele

The depiction of John Steele

The displays brought the history to life, especially in the portion dedicated to Operation Neptune . We were funnled into a dimly lit airplane lined with paratroopers.  The sounds and flashes of light were hectic as the soldiers have individual status reports. Walking out of the path through the plane,  an aerial view, dotted with parachutes, flashed lights as bombs and shells hit their targets. Mayhem and chaos was seen and easily felt. Past that, the room was filled with German materials and helmets spotted with holes and cracked open like eggs.

Point du Hoc felt like a battle field. The damage to the bunkers and the gigantic craters in the hills showed scars from a legendary battle. I cannot believe the successes that happened after looking at the cliffs and the bunkers.

It was impossible to capture the degree of physical devastation of the land, but this was one eerie thing to see

It was impossible to capture the degree of physical devastation of the land, but this was one eerie thing to see

The American cemetery, museum and memorial was beautifully done. As the clock struck upon the hour,  the national anthem began playing as I was reading the names of the fallen buried there. The grief was overwhelming.  I was also overwhelmed as I passed a cluster of graves of unknown soldiers.

The extensive American Cemetery

The extensive American Cemetery

Low-tide Omaha Beach was menacing. Looking down at the shoreline from an old bunker, it was understandable how there was so many casualties. The atmosphere would have seemed serene if not for remembering what happened there. It took consciously thinking about it to realize that it was not just an ordinary beach because of how bare it had been made over the years, and I am kind of glad at that. It showed recovery and how brief things are in the grand scheme of everything. There was a memorial, one ornate one where less casualties were seen, and one of soldiers moving “ever forward” where there was heavy casualties. I took a bag of sand from that area to share with my relatives and my loved veterans back at home.

The British cemetery was drastically different than the American one, even pulling up to it.  It is interesting to see how the different troops from different nations are memorialized. This was a cemetery that was privately owned and was easily less nationalistic in pride and was much more personalized.  It also had a mix of troops from other nations and was much more serene rather than somber.

The diverse British Cemetery

The diverse and personal British Cemetery

La Mont St. Michele  was unlike anything that I have ever seen in person before. I had never seen it before in pictures or anything,  so when driving when I saw a momentous  and astounding figure growing at the horizon,  I was struck with awe.

The view from the top really felt medieval,  and I have never experienced that before other than on the History Channel.  Hearing the connection to World War II, and and how the Nazi’s occupied it and that it was liberated by Patton’s troops was surprising and only further emphasized the apparent amazing history that Mont St. Michael had. I had asked the question to try and find out why so many of the statues faces had been destroyed, and it could have been from the French Revolution or during a Protestant/ Catholic conflict.  What I have learned in European History courses was reflected and feasible today, and I was glad to have that background knowledge to try and digest all that I saw today.

To summarize Bayeux, I have to say that I am glad that my introduction to France and a French speaking populace was in this quiet village like place. Some of the people working in the restaurants unfortunately matched negative stereotypes associated with the French. I had one person help me without rolling their eyes at me for something.

I loved the historic architecture,  the quiet streets and little shops. It was a wonderful break from hectic city life between London and upcoming Paris.  I was also excited to see cows I’ve learned about in my Animal Science courses made famous in America after our troops saw them along the French country side.

This was a random statue that was seen in the middle of a bare part of town that caught my eye

This was a random statue that was seen in the middle of a bare part of town that caught my eye. The town seemed to be so full of history and did not shy away from memorializing it

The Beginning: Dublin, Ireland and London, England

I will very briefly cover my experience with flying out of the country for the first time, for an extended period of time, without my family. It began after a 7 hour layover in Toronto, then Conor and I flew into Ireland. Landing in Dublin and seeing all of  the chaotic Gaelic signs, it finally hit me that I had officially landed in my first foreign country. It was safe to say that I had absolutely no idea what was going on. At that point, it was more exciting than nerve wracking, and I was almost giddy.

Our first meal in Dublin: the infamous Nando's Chicken. The peas were very minty and spicy, and the weirdest thing I've eaten in a long time

Our first meal in Dublin: the infamous Nando’s Chicken. The peas were very minty and spicy, and the weirdest thing I’ve eaten in a long time

Absolutely phenomenal ice cream! If you're ever in Ireland, get the Dingle Sea Salt and the Kerry Cream ice cream! You won't regret it!

Absolutely phenomenal ice cream! If you’re ever in Ireland, get the Dingle Sea Salt and the Kerry Cream ice cream! You won’t regret it!

 

While in Ireland, I took in everything. Foreign birds and plants, ancient looking trees. The accents and tons and tons of diverse cultures. I was struck by how friendly everyone, was, and how adult the elders regarded me.

This was by the popular tourist pubs in Dublin on Friday night. I had to laugh, for this picture showed the juxtoposition of a very Christian country with "hen" and "stag" (bachelor and bachelorette parties) running around behind this man.

This was by the popular tourist pubs in Dublin on Friday night. I had to laugh, for this picture showed the juxtaposition of a very Christian country with “hen” and “stag” (bachelor and bachelorette parties) running around behind this man.

Touring the prison museum of Dublin, I got unique insight that I was able to apply to what I saw in the imperial war museum for World War I and the Irish Rebellion and Civil War. I am very glad that I was able to practice navigating a foreign city in a place where the people were calm and patient.

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Dublin was absolutely beautiful, even though it rained almost every day

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We were fortunate to get to be in Dublin right before this big vote! Opposing parties shown together on almost every lamp post, just like this

On to London!

On to London!

Now landing in London was a whole different story. We landed in an airport so far away from London that we needed to take a shuttle bus and a train to get there. I felt like I kept making mistake after mistake, and when we finally got on the train, a man working with the train assisted us to First Class to better accommodate Conor. Within moments and after a breath of relief, an older British gentleman came on and stared at us, confused, and reminded us that we happened to be in First Class, and that we’d need to pay extra for that privilege. I was less than pleased, to say the least.

London? Where are you?

London? Where are you?

 

The Underground Station! Saw Zayne from One Direction shortly after this picture was taken

The Underground Station! Saw Zayne from One Direction shortly after this picture was taken

On top of that,  The Underground, (which I didn’t even know what it was) posed a lot of issues because of how much luggage there was to manage and trying to navigate something I had never even kind of before while helping Conor, who had recently broken his ankle and has been unable to walk for almost two months now. It was very hectic and people seemed to be in great stress everywhere the whole time. Everyone around me made it harder to do anything and seemed solely interested in getting themselves where they needed to be. They pushed past Conor and I onto the trains, almost knocking him over and throwing me off balance because of a 50 pound backpack I had on. I was livid, confused, and exhausted. After barely making it through that, feeling almost defeated, came finding the hotel in a foreign country without having our resources available. Walking outside, aimlessly in the heat with all of the weight and back pain, with Conor miserable and struggling to move, et cetera, et cetera: that was the low point of my entire time in Europe thus far. After running into a wonderful older British couple who just so happened to be as lost as we were, and who had helped us earlier by giving us a reassuring glance as we left the Underground car. They lead us around the wrong block a couple of times, which was not terrible since we had just finished doing the exact same thing and it was understandable how easy it was. And at this point, I was just so mentally exhausted I just followed whoever was in front of me. To wrap this up: we found everyone, everyone was happy to see us, and I got to go out and explore London within 10 minutes of finding the hotel. At the time, I wanted nothing more than to sleep and stop moving, but I am glad that I went out when I did.

So many stairs

So many stairs

Our comrades, saving the day again

Our comrades, saving the day again

I am sorry to have been so negative for this whole portion, but it honestly took me a long time to recover and enjoy London and to give it its fair shot. It was a wonderful city, just too fast a pace for me. I enjoyed the parks and the beautiful historical buildings, and there was never a dull moment anywhere.

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Making the best of everything

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The Imperial War Museum

The imperial war museum blew me away. I had seen the technological side as well as the technicalities of cause and effect relationships of things instead of only presenting the remembrance of victims. I was particularly struck by the trench exhibit, the Big Bertha side notes, the Shell Shock videos and the Auschwitz scale and German propaganda films.

London had people from all ages and seemingly every country.I couldn’t help but see signs in the underground halls about Xenophobia, and I am glad to have not seen any while I was there.

The Churchill War Rooms took me longer to be impacted by than the imperial war museum. The film before the tour giving background context and the thick and visible concrete slabs above helped me feel that it was not just a basement. I was very glad to have had the audio guide while navigating. I would have missed a lot of little details, such as the Hitler doodle on the map that hung from the meeting room’s wall.

I then visited Westminster and the Tower of London. The sheer number of years of history was shocking, and there is nothing that is as old as simple aspects of the UK, such as a water company that my waterbottle was from that was 750 years old.

The Bletchley area had a much older demographic than the other areas we visited. I am not sure why this was the case, but all seemed to have some background knowledge of what they were looking at in the displays.

Thank you, Dr. Steigerwald, for having the pigeons included in the tour! :D

Thank you, Dr. Steigerwald, for having the pigeons included in the tour! 😀

Walking through the park to Kensington Palace, we heard a helicopter and ran towards the palace to see armed guards and a caravan of cars. It turned out to be Prince Charles. The statues, guards and incredibly ornate palace was shocking after never having experience with any sort of royalty. Later that evening we went and ate Chinese food at a local restaurant and the dichotomy of live style was incredible.

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Photographic evidence! It really happened!

 

 

The last day in London, we started it off with the London Eye. The aerial views were incredible. The day began and ended with tours, and I was very grateful for wrapping up London in that way. After the London eye, the plan was to go to the Shakespeare Globe. After wandering aimlessly, we ended up being closer to the British Museum. There was so much that it was hard to comprehend what I was looking at. The Rosetta Stone and Sphinx’s beard piece did not register as being what they were until later.

For our final dinner in London, we went to our favorite pub and got fish and chips, and I cannot think of any other more appropriate meal.

Our favorite meeting place

Our favorite meeting place

 

Entering the gates at the museum, we we were handed a flyer for a ghost tour that was how we concluded our evening. The history, the views and humor was the best way to end the day.

"Loved it"- Johnny Depp after seeing that quote on the top, we were sold and laughing hysterically

“Loved it”- Johnny Depp
after seeing that quote on the top, we were sold and laughing hysterically

Overall, I honestly have to say that I do not know when I will be up to going back to London. The calmer evenings there were my favorite, and I don’t think that is somewhere I could live.

London, summarized

London, summarized

Paris: The City of Love and Positive Reflection

Paris as a city has been so romanticized throughout all of my very few experiences with it. The Eiffel Tower and French Stereotypes were the basis of my understanding of Paris up until Art History my freshman year of College, where I learned more about how important Paris was to culture. It was very easy to see how new trends could start, and I am very sure that I saw what I will be seeing, clothing, hair and makeup trend wise, in the U.S. in the near future.

I knew that Paris was the City of Love, and that was no joke. Without exaggeration, the very first thing that happened as soon as we got into the elevator at the Metro after the drive from Bayeux, was the two other couples that joined the elevator immediately, as if on cue, both began to passionately make out and rub their bodies together. I was in abosolute shock, and I am sure I was amusing to my professors and Conor. I apologize for the sensory details, but I could go on since this was the mildest of the many more public displays of affection that everyone got to see throughout the days in Paris. The Metro was overwhelming for the senses, if not for the strong smells or the sheer amount of people, on almost every ride on the metro, it was hard not to hear other people sucking on each other’s tongues. (Again, I apologize, but I can phrase it in no other way that accurately portrays it). Everywhere on every corner or even in the middle of walking paths there would be people deeply impassioned with each other’s company.  At times, it was amazing how bold these couples got, and it also made me wonder if America is just very prude. I’m comfortable with this idea so far.

The Invalides Courtyard and Armee Museum was very humbling in historical significance. I did my presentation on the courtyard and nazi occupation in Paris, and it did not take a lot of thought to figure out why the building would have been occupied. The museum was full of battles I had not heard much about before because it had no relevance to American troops, so I don’t have to wonder why I had never heard about them. That was very interesting to see, as well as how the French would include themselves in things I had not known they were involved in before. They had a very large WWI exhibit,  and that makes perfect sense, seeing how devastated France was by it.

There was also a lot of French troops from their imperial colonies, which was very enlightening to see how they justified it. America had not had these experiences with World War II, having to make sure that their colonies that they’ve imperialized stay loyal to a cause that has little relevance to them to make sure that they are willing to die for it or be punished. There was nothing I could find in the museum to see how successful the attempts to control their colonies were, and what would be done if these people did not cooperate with their French commanders.

One of the most interesting pieces of French imperialist propaganda I had seen

One of the most interesting pieces of French imperialist propaganda I had seen

France is very unapologetic about their history.  They do not blatantly state any wrong doing, but try to focus on making sure their positive involvement is known. I cannot tell if this is out of pride and self preservation, or out of a more positive mentality that may exist in the French populace. I expected there to be some sort of apologetic stances on collaboration and the French population themselves deporting the Jews within their country, but that was nowhere to be seen by me.

Another thing that I had noticed about Parisian museums that I did not really see elsewhere was that they seemed to have more accommodations for older generations, such as more ergonomic handles on doors and on bathroom stalls. I wonder if it could be because of a larger number of survivors from this time period coming to visit the Shoah Museum. I was very impressed and glad to see this, since little things like an easily maneuverable lock on a bathroom stall can make such a difference on someone who may be limited in their independence.
“Assertive new Judaism” was a phrase that stood out to me in one of the boards of text in the immediate beginning of the Shoah Museum. I had wondered why people had been so threatened by a culture that ended up requiring golden stars to be sewn visibly onto these people’s clothing so that they could stand out. It’s hard not to generalize, but people as a whole seem to be threatened by things that are new and different, and after reading this board I could see what the logic was behind the French reception of these new Jewish immigrants. It still does not make a lot of sense to me, but I am from a different country and have been raised in a very different time (fortunately).

Henri Bergson, a man who had a personal account described on the boards, said that he would have converted to Catholic if not seen “several years led preparation for the formidable wave of anti-Semitism”. He said this because he “wanted to stay among the people who tomorrow will be persecuted”. I am not entirely sure how to interpret this, but I admire his steadfast nature to defend his people he affiliates himself with.

Something else new I hadn’t seen before this museum was that “In sole cases, men refused to participate (Josefow) and were not disciplined, thus proving that refusal was possible”. I do not know if this was always the case that refusal did not meet harsh and swift punishment for the execution of prisoners or captives, but it is hard to believe that people that were not pressed with a severe punishment would do something so horrific. It was also claimed that “No official written order found for extermination of Jews”, only a decree that a final solution be made. This was very interesting to me, and was left unsubstantiated, so I will look into this in the future.

Overall, I really enjoyed Paris. The atmosphere was much more relaxed than I expected,  and the people I interacted with were much more patient than in Bayeux.  They did make fun of is for being Americans, but in a kind and joking way that was inquisitive. Paris was the most culturally different so far. A lot ate outside,  and tables had the chairs side by side instead of across each other,  and they faced out towards the street. I wasn’t sure if this was cultural or if it was more for conserving space on the sidewalk. Instead of seeming like isolated dates, these people eating were more like partners partaking in the city around them.

The City of Love was indeed the City of Love. When I wasn’t scarring myself by looking over to couples that were going too far, adoration for loved ones could be seen in other ways. Aged couples eating together smiling that things unknown to everyone around them but themselves, and seemed just as in love with each other as the young couples nearest them. It was a truly beautiful thing to see, and not something I have seen so much anywhere else. I would return to Paris again if not just to feel this powerful atmosphere again because of how positive of an impact it would leave. One could not help smiling when you’d see how much love (not just physical) was around.

       I visited the Louve, the Eiffel Tower, and Notre Dame. It all felt very surreal, and even looking back at pictures it still is hard to believe I was there.

 

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Because of Conor’s broken ankle, we got to be escorted to the front of the massive crowd to see this infamous painting. After staring at it in disbelief, we had to take a picture.

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I got to see a painting of this legendary woman that I am named after, Josephine Bonaparte

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I got to celebrate my five year anniversary with Conor in Paris, and I will never forget it

 

I ate traditional food and got to experience ordering meals without having any idea what I was about to eat. Almost everything that I ate was incredible, especially the foreign foods. The only time that this risky gamble of ordering “blind” backfired was with the foie gras. Don’t ever eat it. It’s goose-paste. Even if it’s on pretty toast and your comrades call it “fancy- feast” because of its uncanny resemblance to cat food. I ate the whole thing, and trust me on this, I am all for new experiences, but I would not recommend this to anyone. I had to use a baguette to scrape it off of the roof of my mouth. Spare yourselves, and go with that pasta that looks good instead.

Foie Gras: don’t eat it!

 

Not all of the food in Paris was scary!

Not all of the food in Paris was scary!

 

I had a croissant every day and a baguette for almost every breakfast and never got tired of it. I absolutely loved all of the pigeons and the dogs that I saw on a daily basis, and smiled every time I saw one. Between this and all of the beautiful sights and love I saw around  me, there was very few times I wasn’t smiling to the point my face hurt.

The pigeons were especially friendly by the Louve!

The pigeons were especially friendly by the Louve!

I got my fill of Paris, and would love to return in the future.

A Stroll Through Paris

Paris has been my favorite destination on this study tour so far! I loved the sights, sounds, food and, overall, the general atmosphere of the city. My philosophy for taking on Paris was to simply do; do as many activities, see as many sites, take in as much culture and experiences as possible. By following this philosophy, I feel I got a small taste of what Paris is all about. First of all, I discovered my newfound love for escargot! Though to many the thought of eating snails covered in butter and garlic is appalling, I found it delicious and could not help from ordering them at least once a day at a local café. The dining experiences in Paris exemplified the Parisian way of life; enjoy every minuet, savor and relish in it, and take as long as you like. The French have a way of taking a fashionably long time to do things, which I enjoyed. It was nice to not feel like a burden but rather be encouraged to sit and enjoy the atmosphere and people around you. My favorite part of our time in Paris was just walking around and seeing what I could see. Paris is such a beautiful city with lovely, classic style buildings, apartments with cast iron balconies, and intricate architecture. Everywhere I went, I felt immersed in French culture and aged style.

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One of my favorites parts of Paris was the seeing the Eiffel Tower all lit up, with the lights twinkling. It was such a beautiful sight to see. The Eiffel Tower is such an iconic Parisian landmark. It was mind blowing to be sitting on the lawn and gaze up at this massive, beautiful structure that I’ve only see in movies. It was such a surreal experience and I am thankful that this trip has allowed me to do and see things I could have only dreamt about previously. After visiting Giverny, the location of Claude Monet’s gardens, I was inspired to see Monet’s work in person. On Sunday, I stumbled into Musee Orangerie, a small yet very interesting art museum. This museum held several Monet paintings, including ones that spanned the entire length of the museum walls. Monet acquired inspiration for these paintings from the gardens I had just visited. At one point, I compared the pictures I took at Giverny to the paintings on the wall. It was incredible to compare Monet’s depictions of the gardens, the ponds, the trees, the sky, to the actual site itself. All in all, I loved Paris and would go back in a heartbeat. Though I’m sad to leave, I know Berlin is going to bring such great knowledge and experiences. Until next time!

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The Beauty of Bayeux

From London to Bayeux! Two completely different cities yet both just as beautiful and interesting as the last. Bayeux France was one of the quaintest and quietest places I have ever visited. It embodied the spirit of a small city tucked away in the French countryside. In Bayeux, we got to experience some of the beauty of France as well as some delicious food, including my first taste of escargot! From Bayeux, we made our way to the Normandy Beaches, where the United States troops fought over 70 years ago to liberate France from the German Occupation on D Day. First, we went to Utah Beach, the most successful of the beach landings. This is, in part, because the troops actually landed off target and therefore avoided the heavy bombardments set up by the German defense. We also saw Omaha beach, where the bloodiest part of the battle with the most casualties took place. It was difficult to stand there and remember that thousands of men gave there lived in this exact spot 70 years ago. It is hard to believe today that such a tragic battle was fought on these grounds. Seeing both of these beaches and learning more about the events of D Day was a very intense experience. The strategy and tactics employed by Eisenhower and his men to decided where and when to invade in order to weaken the Germans and take Cherbourg (one of the largest ports to bring in supplies) must have taken immense time and intelligence.

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One of my favorites D Day sites we visited was Pointe Du Hoc. Pointe Du Hoc was the scene of one of the landings during the D Day invasion. It was a point between Omaha beach and Utah beach that the Germans occupied and planted six heavy artillery guns that could seriously hider the Allies’ efforts. It was the job of US rangers to scale these 90 foot cliffs under German gun fire and destroy the German artillery. After learning about the mission at Pointe Du Hoc and then seeing it, I could not believe these men could accomplish such a task. I had the pleasure of meeting a man whose father was one of those Rangers on D Day in 1944. He told of how his father scaled the cliffs as a medic ranger and helped save several men in his battalion. His father passed later in the war but kept a journal that told of his experiences during D Day. This man was able to meet some of his father’s fellow rangers and they told storied of how he had saved their lives. His father is commemorated on a plaque and Pointe Du Hoc today. I loved hearing this story after seeing Pointe Du Hoc. It was amazing to see the huge craters created by the overhead bombs and the German bunkers left in shambles. I have learned a ton so far on this trip and cannot wait to see what’s next.

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London at a Glance

So far, my trip to Europe with the World War II study abroad group has been amazing. These five days have been packed with exposure to culture, several museums, days of sightseeing, strange food, many tube rides, and already some great friends. There have been many highlights thus far. I thoroughly enjoyed walking and exploring the sights of London like Big Ben, Buckingham Palace, and Westminster Abbey. It was unreal to see these iconic sights firsthand and the beauty in them was something that you do not see as often in America. After watching the film The Imitation Game on the plane ride here, Bletchley Park peaked my interest. I enjoyed seeing where Alan Turing broke the enigma code and thousands of other code breakers worked tirelessly to uncover information that impacted the outcome of World War Two in such large way.

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       On Tuesday we visited the Imperial War Museum. I felt this museum was brilliantly set up. The way in which they displayed different aspects of each war highlighted for the visitors what England’s role was and how much of an impact each had on the country as a whole. The World War I exhibit was unlike any I have seen before. The attention to detail and comprehensiveness helped those like me who are not as familiar with WWI, understand how grand it was and the major impact it made on an entire generation of Englishmen. In the World War II exhibit, I really enjoyed looking at all the different propaganda posters used to rally troops and those at home to aid in the war effort. I found, however, that these messages were conflicting for women of the time. In some posters, you saw a beautiful woman, adorned in diamonds with a drink in her hand, and encouraged not to talk about the war for fear of enemy spies. Yet, in another poster, women were encouraged to make do and mend their clothing, not to dress in excess, and go to work in the factories. When reading these, I found myself wondering what message I would have listened to in this time. Would I have made do and gone to work or would I have continued an exuberant lifestyle, going out to clubs and wearing the latest fashions. For me though, the highlight of this museum was the Holocaust exhibit. I found the British take on this horrid time in history was very interesting. This museum gave the visitors a more technical analysis of the holocaust. It focused on the machine behind the power, how Hitler’s ideals and anti-Semitism grew, and how these systematic killings were carried out. I look forward to the Shoah memorial museum in Paris to see if the French depict the Holocaust in a similar manor. Overall, my experience in London was one Ill never forget and I am excited to see what the rest of the trip has in store.

Paris: Continuation of the French Narrative

Leaving the confines of our small town in Normandy, the group boarded the bus to Paris. To be quite honest, my expectations for Paris were not fantastic. Rumors of snobby people, crowded tourist traps, and over expensive food swirled in my head. Frankly I was the least excited about Paris out of all of our destinations. I would probably be ruined by Anthony Bourdain if he heard me say that. BUT, to save face (kinda), I was glad I proved myself wrong.

It is a stunningly beautiful city, possibly the most visually pleasing one I’ve ever been in. Where New York smacks you in the face with skyscrapers, Paris has mostly just 4-6 level buildings fashioned in mainly baroque or classical styling. This architecture is charming and welcoming in a way. Coupled with the Eiffel Tower and cathedrals, there certainly is a romantic flair to the city. The food was good, nothing too expensive, especially compared to London. The people were not too snobby either most of the time. The tourist destinations were packed though, but that wasn’t going to change with the outstanding weather and it being the month of May.

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The Eiffel Tower dominating the Parisian skyline

 

After being peeved at the narrative presented on the liberation in Normandy, the one presented in Paris was definitely more favorable towards the Americans. Regardless, the group went into Les Invalides – the French War Museum – with a little bit of trepidation. It’s World War II section was very straightforward, detailed, and only really unique in a few regards. The narrative presented was one familiar to American World War II museums. They focused heavily on the occupation of France and Free France under Charles de Gaulle, which makes sense. However, the exhibit made a point that nearly every major battle in the Western theater from North Africa all the way to the fall of Paris included some kind of crucial involvement from the French Resistance. In addition, the emphasis on Free France and the liberation of Paris played heavily into that idea. To poorly summarize, Free France, led by Charles De Gaulle, were crucial in the Western front and liberated the actual city of Paris themselves. Am I skeptical of this viewpoint? Both yes and no.

On one hand it makes sense that this museum would present that, it would be demeaning and humiliating to create this exhibit in the same building that houses Napoleons tomb only to present the American “France got walloped and did nothing after except collaborate with Nazi’s” perspective. On the other, I feel that underplaying the role of Allied militaries in the liberation of France is a disservice to both historical accuracy (which is what happened in the Caen War Museum) and those who fought in Normandy. This question of how vital was the French resistance and Free France in the liberation of country was one that I never really considered until this trip. It is certainly a confliction in perspective, but to me it makes sense that this national military museum would present an answer to that question that would paint the French in a strong and courageous light.

Overall, Paris was truly not as bad as I expected. Wow, how terrible does that sound? “Paris, the city of lights, the city of love, was better than my very low and inexperienced expectations.” Just ridiculous. Anyways, finding smaller places to eat and being removed from the huge crowds in the major tourist areas certainly helped in that regard. It really is a romantic city (sometimes publicly too much so to be honest) and I would certainly not mind returning later on.

 

Paris and the Holocaust

The notion that anti-Semitism has been and continues to be a legitimate issue in France was somewhat of a perplexing concept for me to wrap my head around before this trip. Let me be clear: I never experienced any soft of personal anti-Semitism during my stay in France at all, however in Paris, our trips to the Hôtel des Invalides and (to my surprise) the Shoah Museum solidified the real presence of a continuing sense of anti-Semitism in the country via the museums’ depictions of (or in this case, jarring lack thereof) the Holocaust.

The Entrance to Hotel des Invalides

The Impressive Entrance into Hotel des Invalides

The Ornate Chapel in the Back of Invalides, Where Napoleon Bonaparte is Buried

The Ornate Chapel in the Back of Invalides, Where Napoleon Bonaparte is Buried

Meaning “catastrophe” in English, the French term of “Shoah” is what is used to depict the Holocaust, which seems far too ambiguous to denote such a horror and causes me to hone in on why to the French, the Holocaust is not referred to as a genocide nor the systematic killing of millions of members of minority groups, but just a catastrophe. Thus, the simplicity of the term “Shoah” was something I found extremely difficult to look past. Moreover (and by no means helping the French’s case in my eyes), the deportations, internments, and killings that occurred in France (or even those that actually took place beyond the country’s borders and beyond their control for that matter) were barely addressed at all. Although extensive in its coverage of World War II, at Invalides I was only able to locate one small display discussing the Holocaust, and it is hidden within an under-lit corner of the exhibit that manages to delve into the involvement of the French in almost all aspects of the war (oftentimes also being absurdly biased when doing so) except for the nation’s role in/with the Holocaust. While I do not speak a lick of French, and therefore could not understand the short descriptive plaque discussing the contents of said display at Invalides on the “Shoah,” not much of an explanation needed as only felt yellow Stars of David that the Jewish population of France had been forced to wear post-1941 were behind that glass.

Yet the real surprise is found within the Shoah Museum. I had been looking forward to our visit, and upon our entry into the well-guarded site, I was not disappointed. Seeing the names the men, women, and children whom had been deported/killed at the hands of the French etched into the high stonewalls that were surrounding us gave me the chills. The stage had been set for an amazing museum. Upon entering the -1 floor, I found myself with the chills once more. The memorial to genocide with the eternal flame perfectly centered in a Star of David below a skylight was breathtaking – I even began to think that maybe, just maybe, the term “Shoah” wasn’t as simple as I had first concluded it to be.

The Understated but Extremely Moving Memorial to Genocide Within the Shoah Museum

The Understated but Extremely Moving Memorial to Genocide Within the Shoah Museum

However, upon my entrance to the -2 floor for the museum’s permanent exhibit on the Holocaust, my optimism quickly turned into disappointment. What had begun as a beautiful and promising homage to the systematic killing of millions had become, in my opinion, a disorganized and stale sub-par showing. As I mentioned above, I do not know French, but luckily (or so I first thought), the Shoah had English translations for almost every area. Yet, said English translations were by no means meaningful or enough in my opinion to make up for the hodgepodge of information being regurgitated at us. Yes, the familial backgrounds and personal stories of victims were a nice touch for the museum to have been able to include, however, they were presented so poorly that they had no real impact. I hate to put it like this, but essentially just showing a picture of a persecuted Jewish man or woman with their age and occupation before and after the war was by no means enough. It was basic, and shown the way it was made me feel like it was almost a school project. The Shoah showed us victims and survivors but nothing more – not their struggles, experiences, or horror stories – as many of the best Holocaust museums do or even the logistics of how the French came to be so influential in all of it (as had been interestingly shown in the British Imperial Museum). Had the museum been more fluid in its layout and stories and had more depth to its personal highlights, or even had English translations that were inclusive of the entire exhibit – particularly for the diary entries and video reflections shown throughout in French that were undoubtedly moving but because of the language barrier did not make sense to me – I may not have had such a disappointing experience. I found that the Shoah, which while it is privately owned and operated (as a Jewish organization nonetheless), completely fell into the aforementioned French mentalities of bias and avoidance when trying to address the Holocaust and its French connections. All said and done, my visits to Invalides and the Shoah simply leave a bitter taste in my mouth, which in retrospect, is largely parallel to my feelings towards and experiences within the majority of Paris as a whole – it does not really click with me.

However, we Did Have Fun at the Eiffel Tower

However, We Did Have Fun at the Eiffel Tower

Paris: A Continued View of France and the Holocaust

Although I really enjoyed our time in Bayeux, it was time to go. Ready to leave the laid-back style of Normandy, I was very excited for the hustle and bustle of a large city. I managed to maintain this excitement even through the multitude of discouraging reviews of Paris claiming that it was a disgustingly dirty city, with a virtually unnavigable metro, and is filled with rude Parisians and pick pockets who would take my shorts if I didn’t hold on tight enough. Despite these accounts, I found Paris to be very enjoyable. The rich history of the city was palpable in its beautiful buildings and the food was phenomenal. The metro was difficult to navigate at first, but this was to be expected since this was our first encounter with a language barrier in a large city. However this was something that we were able to get used to fairly quickly and by the end of our stay we were able to get around with relative ease. However, to be perfectly honest, we did run into our fair share of snide locals and a few duplicitous individuals who looked all too eager to follow our group that was obviously unfamiliar with the city.

Although it is certainly part, touring the cities and experiencing their culture is not the main objective of our trip, but rather to experience how each group of peoples remembers the role that it played in World War II. This is the reason that I was most excited to visit Paris. In Normandy, most of the museums seemed to accentuate the role of the French Resistance while skimming over French compliancy with both the Nazi and Vichy regimes. I was eager to see if this trend of de-emphasizing the role played in the Holocaust would continue in Paris; for the most part, it did. The distancing from the Holocaust was evident nearly everywhere we went, and was initially observed in the first museum that we visited; the Musée de l’Armée.

The museum was quite extensive (especially when it came to uniforms, hats, and guns) and had a good bit on both World Wars. Although I was constantly searching, I could not find much on this event that, although its horror is beyond words, is forever a part of this country’s (and other’s) past. Nearly ready to give up, I stumbled upon a small exhibit (what seemed a mere 15 by 30 feet) in a side room at the very end of the museum, not 50 feet from the exit. Inside this dimly lit, walled off section was a cold recounting of events and statistics of the Holocaust. Here I did not see any mention of the French or their compliance with the Nazi or Vichy regimes and, to make matters worse, there was a video playing on a small screen that displayed some of the most gruesome images of the Holocaust that I have ever see. It seemed to me that the people in these images deserve more than this bare bones display.

The next place regarding the Holocaust we visited was the Memorial to the Martyrs of the Deportation. Even though I had walked by it on multiple occasions I was unaware of its existence. Despite its location directly behind Notre Dame, the site is well hidden underground and facing the river. It too is severely lacking.

The third site I hoped to learn about France coming to terms with its culpability with the Holocaust was the Shoah memorial. This memorial was outstanding in detail and content. The exhibit, beginning by tracing anti-semitism to its ancient roots, gave a much need objective view of the holocaust and the role that France played. It did so by not only providing details but by placing both the Jews and French collaborators in a particular place in time, rather than simply spitting out facts. However, this memorial was constructed by a Jewish organization, while the first two were made by the French government. After seeing how the French government remembers the culpability of its citizens I’ve very interested in what we will find when we travel to Berlin.

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Paris

Paris is a beautiful yet hectic place to visit; as much as I loved my visit, I don’t know that I could live there.

The subway system was fun to navigate and relatively easy to follow, but I always felt rushed, more so than I had in London; I was also surprised at how dirty some of it was.  The rest of the city, however, did not feel this way.  In many of the areas I walked in, people were enjoying themselves and taking their time.  I saw so many people relaxing in the grass, or enjoying an ice cream.  It was also neat to see the locks on all the bridges of people who had fallen in love. (On the flip side, however, I’ve been told that these locks are ruining the bridges because they weigh them down so much).

Of course, the food in Paris did not disappoint.  All the foods at the Latin quarter were great, and I also had falafel by the Memorial, which was absolutely amazing.  I probably should have had more traditional French food than I did, but the ethnic food I often had was often great.  One day I and some others went out to get hot chocolate because we had heard it was very good.  It turned out to be one of the best things I’ve ever had; it was essentially a melted Hershey’s bar (but better). In the meantime, all one had to do to get good food was to stop by any of the creperies all over the city.  Additionally, I really liked that eating was not usually rushed; we were always encouraged to stay, relax and talk.  It was also great to be able to eat outside a few times especially because the weather was good.

One of my favorite experiences was spending time by and on the Eiffel tower, even though it was of course quite touristy.  Going up was especially beautiful at night; on the second floor of the tower, we had an amazing view of the city (and the light show)! It did, however, show a lot of the societal problems France (and certainly many other countries) must face.  There were plenty of people selling cheap items for purchase (cheap souvenirs, champagne at the tower, selfie sticks, etc.), as well as many beggars all over.  It was sad because selling these items were probably the only livelihood possible for these people at the time, but of course there was little I could do individually to help.

I spent some time in the Louvre as well; the works of art were breathtaking but so was the building itself.  This building, like many other buildings in Paris, such as the Notre Dame, may be standing now, but their existence tells of a history that can be hundreds or even thousands of years old.  I find the history of these buildings to be fascinating because they give Paris its elegant feel; this feeling is simply not present in many American cities as they simply have not seen the history that cities like Paris have existed through.  Because of its age, many interesting buildings, sidewalks, churches, etc. can be found in Paris because this collective history and culture is what makes the city so special.

I’ve loved spending time in Paris overall, but am excited to see Berlin!