For my STEP Signature Project, I completed American Councils’ Advanced Russian Language and Area Studies (RLASP) summer program in Almaty, Kazakhstan. While there, I studied fourth-year Russian and Central Asian politics.
My trip to Kazakhstan was my first time outside of North America. Though I’ve spent five years studying Russian language and post-Soviet culture in general, I’d never had the opportunity to visit a Russian-speaking country before, let alone one so far away from home. The process of preparing for the program involved a lot of moving parts: I had to submit extensive medical records, apply for a Kazakh visa, and get my first passport. Additionally, the American sense of urgency is nowhere to be found in post-Soviet countries, so there was a lot of waiting involved as everything fell into place for the summer. The pre-program preparation taught me how to manage my time and be assertive – it turns out doctors’ offices and banks are not always fantastic at listening to you the first time – as well as how to be patient in the face of delays.
In terms of interpersonal relationships, I experienced very little culture shock while I was in Kazakhstan. Years of language study and interactions with faculty and graduate students from all parts of the world had prepared me for Kazakh directness and sincerity, which I found to be pleasant and make communication easier. However, I did experience lifestyle and environment-related culture shock. To an American who grew up in Midwestern suburbs, everything in Kazakhstan seems relatively small! Furthermore, there are notable differences in infrastructure: WiFi and cellular data are not always reliable, air conditioning remains sparse, and roads and sidewalks are often uneven and littered with electric scooters. As such, I always felt a bit cramped and uncomfortable in Almaty – the new circumstances made me hyper-aware of where my body was in relation to other people, and I was forced to be present. In retrospect, this was a welcome change. I realized that I can live an incredibly fulfilling life without many American material comforts, and that intensely packed cities have a way of making one feel less alone. Little by little, I was able to replace my homesickness with an appreciation for where I was in the present moment, regardless of the circumstances.
My relationship with my host mom was the beating heart of my time in Kazakhstan. My host family situation was rather unique – my host mom was a first-time host parent, a retiree, lived in a house (a rarity for Almaty), and had no immediate family within the country. Due to her free time and the lack of anyone else in the house, we were able to form a close connection. Though we had a plethora of varied experiences together, my favorite memories with her are the conversations we’d have over dinner. Almost every other dinner conversation we had somehow turned into a discussion of the Soviet Union and how things were simpler then. I had the privilege of eating home-cooked meals at her lemon-yellow dining table and hearing all kinds of stories about her life – how she grew up, how she’d raised her children, what advice she had for me as a young woman. These discussions served as valuable reminders to zoom out, value my life exactly as it is, and live in the present moment.
In addition to my relationship with my host mom, I was fortunate enough to have an in-country conversation partner around my age during my time in Kazakhstan. My busy class schedule meant that I couldn’t meet up with her as often as I liked, but whenever we got to spend time together, it was as if we’d never been apart. Though we were different in nearly every conceivable way, our status as girls bonded us, and we were able to laugh and joke and get ice cream together without it being awkward. It was comforting to have a female friend my age in Kazakhstan who wasn’t American – we had far more in common than an American might assume, and just enough differences to ask each other existential questions in the middle of parks.
My program featured a lot of excursions, but my favorite of all of them was our excursion to Lake Issyk. Lake Issyk is nestled in the mountains, and it takes two hours to get there from Almaty by car. By the time you’re a half hour out from the lake, cell service is nonexistent. My cohort went there on a particularly drizzly day, the gray sky gradually soaking our hoodies and backpacks. This excursion happened when I was going through a particularly rough bout of stress and homesickness. When our group finally reached the lake, I decided to hike a bit further and sit on a mossy rock with nothing but my crab-flavored potato chips and my thoughts. At the risk of sounding like Thoreau, those few hours in nature were quite healing. I’d been so used to constantly working and rushing around that I was unsure to do with my time alone in the woods. However, as the minutes went by, the drizzle brought me back to life.
My time in Kazakhstan can be quantified in any number of ways: bags of crab-flavored chips eaten, oral proficiency interview results, homework assignments submitted, sunburns gotten, and so on. However, my favorite way of reflecting on this summer is by measuring how much I think about Kazakhstan while back in the United States. This summer improved my Russian skills in tangible ways – ways that show up in the classroom, in conversation with graduate students, and in text-based chats with friends. My outlook on the world has become more balanced, optimistic, and rooted in actions rather than ideas. I have learned what does and does not matter to me, I have learned to be more receptive. I returned to the United States with an even broader perspective than before.
Studying abroad is a rite of passage for every foreign language student, and my experience would not be possible without STEP. I’m grateful to Ohio State for its continued support of this program – every student deserves the opportunity to have illuminating new experiences.