For about 5 weeks of my summer – spanning between May and June – I studied and experienced life in Dakar, Senegal as part of The Ohio State’s Education Abroad Program: Francophone Africa: Between Tradition and Modernity. Myself and about 25 other students participated as a way to consider and further understand the lingering economic, political, and social implications of the country once colonized by the French. Our classes at the West African Research Center and our trips to various cities within the country spoke to various themes such as religion and West African hip-hop, all while being taught in French or Wolof.
Amitié Trois neighborhood
Prior to departing, I didn’t have many predetermined expectations for Senegal other than that it would be a complete 180 from life in Columbus and in America. I decided that I would land in Dakar with an open mind, ready to take in the country and its people as they were. I wasn’t going to Senegal to change others; I was going to change myself. My one expectation for an unbearable, dry heat consistent with stereotypical Africa was not met, much to my delight. I quickly realized when I landed and looked at my new surroundings that I had expectations even if they were subconscious. I might have been expecting an undeveloped country with citizens living poorly. I didn’t expect to closely relate to my host family or the Senegalese way of life because I first would have been judged too quickly by the way I looked and sounded. I think I expected people to misunderstand me because they saw my light complexion before they saw the core values I wished to define myself with.
I found that our little corner of the world at The Ohio State University isn’t as little as I thought. We might be across the world from Dakar, but we still value many of the same things, namely connections and relationships with one another. We all desire to connect, feel relatable and care. We want to learn from each other as a method to appreciate our differences. I felt so connected to the country and people in so many different ways. The Senegalese place high value on each other that I don’t think many people in the United States do. They overlook a dividing factor like religion to seek peace and respect. I envied their seemingly endless acceptance for everyone. We were genuinely cared for and given the best our families had to offer. I discovered that no matter how lives are lived, they are respected. And no matter where people are from, they are loved.
Christian and Muslim cemetery in Joal
In particular, my interactions with the host families in Dakar allowed me to experience an overwhelmingly hospitable and loving environment. In addition to my own host family, the families of other Ohio State students debunked any notion I had about them not being a welcoming, caring community. I had only been in Dakar a few days when my host mother realized that I loved potatoes and ice cream. She made an effort every night at dinner to have some form of potatoes on my plate and ice cream for dessert. She and my host father wanted so badly to make sure I ate lots of the foods I liked. And one host mother decided to take on our OSU group for dinner one night. She told us over and over again how happy it made her to have us in her home and that we were enjoying her company as well. Families and Senegalese friends did their best to prepare us for anything we needed. Whether that was an impromptu Wolof lesson before the final, some advice before an excursion, or a mandatory breakfast to go (because Maman knew you would be hungry later), it always known that I was important to my family. La Téranga sénégalais (Senegalese hospitality) certainly rang true during these weeks.
In addition to Senegalese hospitality, the presentation of different religions cooperating with each other questioned my thinking in how people who believe vastly different things can connect and live peacefully. I
My Senegalese host parents
came to understand through class discussion and conversation with my host parents that the religious tolerance exercised by the Senegalese is unique and quite incredible. My host father knew a lot about Islam and despite being Catholic, it was evident that he still valued the contributions of Islam. My host parents told me that the (loud) calls to prayer from the mosque behind our house never bothered them. The calls were important to the Muslims, so they accepted the minor disturbances. At dinner the evening before Ramadan started, my host father explained what Ramadan was in its entirety and told me that he practiced Ramadan as well. Religion was a critical part of daily life. I often saw individuals praying on the sidewalks or would hear prayers coming from inside houses as I would walk past. The religious peace that the Senegalese had truly amazed me because it’s something that I didn’t really imagine to be possible.
On one specific field trip to an art museum, I found a large multi-media piece called Equilibrium by Henri Sagna. It featured a black and white checker board
“Equilibrium” by Henri Sagna
with churches and mosques on the squares in the opposing color. Simple, yet effective in conveying the artist’s message: Senegal has a religious balance. This specific piece spoke to me because I felt it represented what I was seeing and experiencing for the first time. It was a visual representation of complex idea. There is an inexplicable equilibrium between Muslims and Christians despite Christians only making up about 5% of the country’s population. Meaningful friendships persist despite religious diversity. Differing views don’t stop individuals from relating to and learning about one another. These short dinner conversations as well as local art convey the same unified message of respectful tolerance that identifies uniquely with Senegal.
Mosque on the beach at Yoff
Staying in Senegal for those 34 days has had a greater impact on my life than this present reflection allows. It would be impossible to properly dictate all of what I felt, learned, and reflected on. The
journey had many challenges, but also many moments of joy. I feel so privileged to have been able to practice my knowledge of the French language in a Francophone country and to experience the culture in a loving, residential environment. With continual grammatical help my host family gave me, I can confidently say that my French speaking skills have improved – even if only by a small margin. It was a time for me to explore a rich history first-hand and evaluate the education I’ve received in the United States and the direction I want my history degree to take. My experiences in Senegal empower me to be open minded and look for examples of tolerance in my life. I’ve seen the impact of having compassion for others. I draw parallels between what I saw in Dakar and what I see in my daily life. I’ve returned to Ohio appreciative of what I’ve seen and learned, but also appreciative of what I have. Conversations, relationships, and lessons learned are ones I won’t soon forget. The way in which the Senegalese past guides the future, but doesn’t determine it is a way in which I can live my life as I pursue all of my future endeavors.
Jamm rekk.