Piskaryovskoye Memorial Cemetery
Katie Cook
Today was our first sight of rain in St. Petersburg. It was metaphoric in a way, we are always taught in school that rain brings about change, and in this case, I believe it brings a rebirth. The sweltering heat of days previous would not have been appropriate for the solemn scenery of the memorial. I like to think the sun represented the unbearable suffering that burned in St. Petersburg during the siege of Leningrad, but the rain, it brought a calmness and peace to the land. The sky was grey, but the grass was a fresh, lush green that starkly contrasted its surroundings. The dew gave a lovely sheen to the grass and trees — it felt as if it was an early morning sunrise, rather than the afternoon.
Over the course of WWII, no country suffered as much loss as the Soviet Union. They lost 11 million soldiers, and as least as many civilians, though these numbers range anywhere from 7 million civilian casualties to 20 million. The siege of Leningrad was the most brutal battle of the war, lasting nearly 900 days and claimed over a million civilian lives. With this in mind, the monument stands as a huge testament to the bravery and perseverance of not only Soviet soldiers, but people as well.
As you approach the memorial, the motherland welcomes you with open arms, as if she was asking you to pass over her children, to lay flowers and give thanks. This place was more than a place of remembrance, but one of self-reflection as well. I walked through the path of trees and felt an overwhelming sadness, but soon it gave way to such an overwhelming sense of happiness that I began to cry; in this moment I understood the phrase, “joy with tears.” I was happy because I felt such peace in this place. Everything was still, and I had the impression of a relieving sigh hanging overhead like a breath of fresh air and the beauty of spring. The air smelled sweet and the trees laced within each other creating the perfect path of solitude. Indeed, I thought anyone could be at peace here, simultaneously feeling connected to both one’s self and others that they had never even known. I had no conception of nationality or the decades that separated me from those buried here; simply that all humans are the same in that they understand the precious gift of life and the desire to hold on to it.
The only disturbance to the silence was the sound of birds. People strolled this way and that, but no one dared to speak, as if it was an insult to the memory of others. Though, what words could be said? In such grave contemplation, no words would do justice, only poetry seems profound enough, because it is like a song and only music can portray the indescribable and unspeakable. I thought of Anna Akhmatova’s poem about the war:
Nikto nam ne khotel pomoch’
Za to, chto my ostalis’ doma,
Za to, chto, gorod svoi liubia,
A ne krylatuiu svododu,
My sokhranili dlia sebia
Ego dvortsy, ogon’ i vodu.
(No one wanted to help us
Because we stayed home,
Because, loving our city
And not winged freedom,
We preserved for ourselves
Its palaces, its fire and water.)
These people had hopes and dreams all rooted within this city. They dared not abandon it because the thought that it could be taken away and destroyed in an instant was inconceivable. It is a truly humbling experience, realizing how easily it could have been you lying beneath this grass. You, or your mother, or your father, or your sisters, or your brothers, or your dearest friend. My chest was tight as I thought of the love I held for my family and how that was stripped away for so many lying right beneath my feet. Who am I to be able to walk here, to reap the benefits of their perseverance and strength? A strength I myself don’t think I could have kept in their same circumstance. To think one man’s selfish war could have destroyed the love of so many is despicable to say the least, but as I said before, what words can even be used to portray such deep feelings of sorrow and humility?
If you ever find yourself in St. Petersburg, I beg you take the trek to this memorial. Though it may seem a grim thought, you will realize the depth of emotion goes so much farther than that. It is more than a memory of people you didn’t know, but a reminder of how lucky we are to live such privileged lives. Truly, I am humbled and I hope one day I can stroll those peaceful paths again with the people I love.
Sources:
http://www.eisenhowerinstitute.org/about/living_history/wwii_soviet_experience.dot
https://www.history.com/topics/world-war-ii/siege-of-leningrad
I agree with you when saying this memorial was so somber yet also peaceful. The quiet hanging overhead didn’t feel suffocating, but relaxing and calming. I also felt like the rain was symbolic of our trip here. It was an emotional place, but in a good way, and I am glad that we went here and experienced the memorial.
I agree with both of you, guys, that this memorial was a very peaceful place. There was so much emotion here with the eternal flame and all. The place itself was beautiful. There was just endless grass and trees and the grounds were kept up so well. It’s just so crazy that so many people died during the siege. This memorial is such an emotional place to visit.
I love the use of the poem! It fits the experience and feeling of the memorial perfectly. Indeed it is an experience that is hard to put into words- knowing how such atrocities occur to innocent citizens who are so devoted to their home.
I found the memorial heartbreaking but inspirational and hopeful in a way. I really like that behind the statue of the motherland it says that no one will be forgotten- I find that comforting and nice- for lack of better word- in a way.
I felt an awkward feeling of sadness and that I didn’t belong there- which in and of itself is against what the memorial was for- at least as it seems to me, it is for the memory. I had no idea about the impact of the siege of Leningrad before this trip and the memorial gave me an understanding on a deeper level of the size of the impact and the impact it had. The memory will live on and more and more people will learn about the tragic event that occurred and learn from it.
Also your writing is beautiful and definitely has the desired impact. It is beautiful.
I really loved this memorial. It was incredibly peaceful and serene. The quietness of the place added another layer of respect and reflection to the memorial. It was such an insightful experience to have. I had no idea the amount of causalities that happened during the war, it goes to show how much resiliency the Russian people have. Being able to go here is something I will truly never forget.
For all the horror that the cemetery and memorial were meant to cover up the place had a somber but serene ambience to it. I was amazed to find during the tour that it is not known how many people, even close to an exact number, are buried there (somewhere between 500,000 and 3 million). All the same it was clear the country had great reverence for the place and those buried there, it reminded me very much of Arlington Cemetery across from Washington D.C.