Spectacle in Architecture

We visited Cristo Redentor today, the massive statue at the top of Corcovado Mountain which serves as a universal landmark for the city. Before we boarded our train to the top we knew that would be heavy cloud cover obscuring our view of the city from the statue’s perch. I, however, did not anticipate such heavy clouds that we would struggle to see even the icon’s head!

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This seeming inconvenience actually transformed my experience of the landmark into a more mystical one. Gathered on the two-tiered platform before Cristo’s feet was a mass of people just staring and buzzing in anticipation. The whole scene would go through these dramatic waves based on the clouds above: first near-silence as the statue was hidden completely, then a rise in conversation and preparation (many “Cristo” poses struck), then a culminating cheer as the cover thinned enough to see his face clearly.

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What a magical experience! Sharing the cheer with everyone, and making a kind of game out of looking at a fairly straightforward statue, was humorous and rewarding. It seems a fever-dream of the egoistic architect, to have a crowd of people stare for minutes on end just to see your work. This kind of uncontrolled event is a fleeting moment of amazing interaction between the electricly alive people and the more rigid world of architecture.

The lively crowd was of more interest to me than the statue itself.

The lively crowd was of more interest to me than the statue itself.

 

What a great thing for a place to do to people! This kind of anticipatory spectacle is something I would love to explore in architecture: the hidden icon, the randomly-timed event, these become moments of collective excitement and interaction, curiosity, and wonder. Whether it’s a religious statue shrouded in mist, a faithful geyser, or a giant cuckoo clock (which Troy told me about), dynamic moments of spectacle create powerful moments. Curiousity, anticipation, wonder; it sounds like an architecture that can reignite the magic of childhood, and that would be a beautiful thing.

The (Other) Divided City

Rio is often called “The Divided City” because of its wealth disparity, but there is another division of opportunity that is thrown into much less dramatic contrast.

Blind-accessible pathways in the subway station.

Blind-accessible pathways in the subway station.

 

The amenities given to the physically handicapped vary wildly depending on where you are in the city, ranging from the genius blind-accessible subway paths (that America could learn from) to the perilous sandbag steps of Ipanema Beach. The problem I believe lies in the spontaneous construction of the city. Only in the areas which were invested with large amounts of public funding are handicapped considerations made, or where tourists might be expected to travel. In the impromptu beach entrances of Ipanema, stacking sand bags was the simplest and cheapest solution to the problem of getting from the high boardwalk to the beach below.

 

 

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Where the lack of consideration becomes most discomforting is along the streetscape. The beautiful stone mosaic of the sidewalk becomes treacherous to a wheelchair or unsure foot.

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The incessant traffic is aggressive, and impatient to stragglers.

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Though traversing the city on foot must be hectic for those with physical impairments, there are solutions. Some of the wealthier establishments in new neighborhoods like Flamengo are finding ways to keep the character of Brazil alive while still catering to physical handicaps.

Beautiful handicap-accessible landscape at Porcao.

Beautiful handicap-accessible landscape at Porcao.

Even in areas with less resources such as the Centro district, considerations are put together, with hand-made blue ramps into streetfront shops and sidewalks. In the end, the two divided cities may be strung together. Where Rio experiences its dramatic swings in financial resources, so it sees the same swings in its consideration of the handicapped within it.

 

Reflections on the First Day

This city has a syncopated rhythm. The people walk slow and drive fast. It is a New York smeared across a tropical forest. The beauty that comes from that is captivating.

It seems like every inch of this city begs to be photographed. The people are kind and patient with a grand kind of showmanship about it, reveling in any stumbling bit of shared communication as much as I did. Trying ask if a vendor made his bags himself was rewarding for both of us, him smiling with a proud “Sim” and me thrilled in successfully generating my question. I bought the bag for R$ 97, $33 in the US.

The view from Morro de Urca toward Niteroi.

The view from Morro de Urca toward Niteroi.

The journey to the top of Pão Açúcar was calmly amazing. The impression of this landscape is irresistible, the city is nothing without it. At the top of the mountain, the grand sweeping views were inverted in the tight and tiny patios all along the top park. I felt I could have stayed and sketched there forever, it was so varied, and so quiet. The city seems to have learned how to create moments of sublime peace like these from the hills themselves.

A small patio on the bay-side of Pao de Acucar

A small patio on the bay-side of Pao de Acucar

At night a group of four of us went up to the rooftop pool, which we thought was a hot tub because of its appearance. This city and country seems to understand the value of rooftop spaces in a way that I wish the United States would. All along the Ipanema promenade full-grown palms, ferns, and bushes can be seen flowing over rooftop patios. Our pool area serves as more than water recreation; the multi-platform space serves as a semi-private urban space to socialize. The views brings about a feeling of voyeurism about the city, giving grand views from the comfort of the private rooftop.

A terraced green space teetering on the edge of Pao de Acucar

A terraced green space teetering on the edge of Pao de Acucar

Storm Before the Calm

I haven’t really had time to process this trip yet. I have had my head down trying to get through this week, studying and working on projects right up until 10 am today when I finished my midterm in Arch History. It’s only now while I sit in the Knowlton Library waiting for 12:30 to come that the full realization of the experience we’re all about to have is washing over me. It is a wave of refreshing relaxation to finally have nothing standing between me and this momentous trip. At the same time however, the bliss of oncoming relaxation in paradise is mingled with fear of the radical newness of this impending experience.

I’ve never been out of North America. I’ve never been somewhere that the majority of people don’t speak my language. Those are some scary propositions for me, but they are thresholds I have been wanting to cross since I was young. It is such an intoxicating blend of terror and excitement, thrilling, to be leaving the world of intellectual speculation about the world from a distance to actually being in it. I feel so young, so ready to have impressions made on my mind and heart.

I think this is the great contradiction of preparing to travel; the total release and relaxation of having the bags packed and the world ready to swallow you, swirled together with the gut-fear that comes before the leap. I will relish it for these next 90 minutes.

~//~

Brown Shoes, Black Pants, Don't Care.

Bags Packed: Relaxation/Butterflies in the Knowlton Library.