Villa Farnese, Villa Lante
After a hot and arduous week, tomorrow we will be relaxing by leaving the city and going to two of the great gardens of the world. We will be meeting Riccardo at the same place as before, behind the Supreme Court building, at 8:30am, and heading out via minibus. There will be an opportunity to get lunch in town in between our two visits.
Today you are mostly on your own. We will have individual meetings to talk about your Project II topic at the Rome Center; otherwise, you are free to spend your time on site developing your project.
We will start our meetings at 9am; you can sign up for a slot here. You only need to be present for your own meeting.
After your meeting, you will go to your proposed site (or one section of it) and try a test run. Then, at any point in the afternoon/evening up until 6:30, stop back at the Rome Center to check in with me and share what you learned.
St. Peter’s, Piazza S. Pietro, Palazzo Torlonia, Palazzo Alberini, Palazzo del Banco di S. Spirito, Oratorio dei Filippini, Piazza di Pasquino, Palazzo Braschi, S. Pantaleo, Area Sacra di Largo Argentina, Il Gesù, Piazza Venezia, Piazza del Campidoglio, Palazzo Senatorio, Palazzo dei Conservatori, Palazzo Nuovo, S. Maria d’Aracoeli, Carcere Mamertino, SS. Luca e Martina, Curia Julia, Forum of Caesar, Via dei Fora Imperiali, Ludus Magnus, Lateran Baptistery, Lateran Palace, S. Giovanni in Laterano, S. Clemente, SS. Quattro Coronari
We will meet Davide at 9:30 at Piazza Papa Pio XII, just east of Piazza S. Pietro, for a long and glorious recreation of the Papal Way, the procession from the Vatican to the Lateran. Be prepared for plenty of sun and more palazzos than you would think possible, and bring a water bottle.
9:30 meet at Piazza Papa Pio XII
12-1 lunch
1: meet again at the foot of the steps leading up to the Piazza del Campidoglio
5: finish up for the day
Via Giulia, S. Eligio degli Orefici, S. Maria dell’Orazione e della Morte, Mascherone, Ponte Sisto, Ghetto, Sinagoga, Ponte Fabricio, Tiber Island, Ponte Cestio, S. Maria in Trastevere, S. Pietro in Montorio/Tempietto, Acqua Paola
During this week, we will focus on Rome from 1400 through 1800, including the Renaissance and Baroque years. Today, we will travel down the Via Giulia to the Ghetto, and cross over into Trastevere.
We also have a few special events. First, you will be presenting your Project 1 work and receiving your Project 2 statement.
Second, I’m very happy to announce that we have the opportunity to get a presentation from the American architecture and landscape firm op.AL, who are currently doing a residence at the American Academy in Rome. Check out their work here.
8:30-11:30 meet at the Ponte Sant’Angelo, on the side opposite from the Castel Sant’Angelo (near the Rome Center); walk down Via Giulia to Ghetto, and across to Trastevere
11:30-12:30 lunch break in Trastevere
12:30-3 go up the Gianicolo/Janiculum Hill, present Project 1, and receive Project 2
3 back to Rome Center for presentation by op.AL
Our journey through Ancient Rome continues with a visit to the ruins of the former port of Rome. We’ll spend all day in Ostia Antica, a large archaeological park, which is a beautiful place but doesn’t have much shelter – pack sunscreen/hat if you think you’ll need them. You will have one option on the site for buying lunch, if you should need it.
We will be meeting Francesco at the platform at the Porta San Paolo station for the Roma-Lido tram line. This is pretty easy to get to – it is basically part of the same building as the Piramide station on the regular Metro, so just go there and follow the signs. Your pass will also work for the tram. (By the way, this is also the way to get to the local beach, if you are interested. Beaches here are pretty different!)
9am – meet Francesco at Porta San Paolo
12pm – lunch break
4pm head back
Arch of Constantine, Colosseum, Arch of Titus, Roman Forum, Basilica of Maxentius, Temple of Antoninus and Faustina, Temple of Vesta, Curia, SS. Luca e Martina, Arch of Septimius Severus, Palatine Hill, Domus Augustana, Imperial Fora, Trajan’s Column, Trajan’s Market
We will embark tomorrow on an epic trip around the Fora at the center of ancient Rome. Francesco had to switch with Francesca, who you met briefly.
8:45 meet Francesca at the Arch of Constantine in front of the Colosseum (just go to the Colosseo metro stop and go across the street)
9-1 tour Colosseum and Roman Forum
1-2 break for lunch
2-5 tour Imperial Fora and Trajan’s Market
The forecast says for now that the rain should finally disappear for a while after tomorrow. Let’s hope!
Circus Maximus, FAO Building, S. Maria in Cosmedin, S. Giorgio in Velabro, Arch of Janus, Cloaca Maxima, S. Nicola in Carcere, Casa dei Crescenzi, Foro Boario, Temple of Portunus, Temple of Hercules Victor, Tiber/Lungotevere, Ponte Rotto
We are going to see a large variety of things in a small area tomorrow, many of them picking up on the theme of spolia we started to investigate around the Tomb of Cecilia Metella.
We will meet just outside the Circo Massimo Metro stop. Take the Metro there (you’ll have to switch to the blue line Metro at Termini), go outside, wait for the very long light to change, and navigate to the south end of the Circus Maximus, where I will be waiting.
9: meet outside the Circus Maximus
9am-12pm: tour
12-on: go to your Project 1 site and get started!
Catacombs of Domitilla, Fosse Ardeatine, Via Appia, Villa of Maxentius, Mausoleum of Cecilia Metella, Capo di Bove
Our walk for the day focuses on memorials and burial. We’ll meet at 9:30 at the Navigatori bus stop, on the corner of the Via della Sette Chiese and Via Cristoforo Columbo. Directions are here; if you really wanted to avoid the bus it looks like you could take the Metro to Garbatella and walk from there. All this should take at least 45 minutes from your nearest stop, but given the time of day, give it an hour. You can check here for real-time transit data and route recommendations.
Be aware that since we will be on the outskirts of the city, you will not have the same variety of meal options as before – you will definitely be able to eat out, but might also consider packing something to eat.
travertine quarries, Hadrian’s Villa, Villa d’Este
Tomorrow we go to the historic town of Tivoli, a little more than 20 miles east of the city. Tivoli is home to two of the world’s great retreats: the Villa d’Este and Hadrian’s Villa, aka Villa Adriana.
We will be meeting Riccardo d’Aquino at 8:45, behind (on the southern/river side) of the Supreme Court – that is, the opposite side of where Piazza Cavour is. We will have a lunch break between our two destinations – there are lunch options in town, though nothing spectacular. Be aware that while there is plenty of shade at the Villa d’Este, Hadrian’s Villa is much more exposed. Looks like similar weather to today, with minimal sprinkling – if I remember correctly you should be able to leave non-valuables on the mini bus.
Piazza della Repubblica, Baths of Diocletian/S. Maria degli Angeli e dei Martiri, Acqua Felice, S. Susanna, S. Maria della Vittoria, Gardens of Sallust, Porta Pia, Palazzo Ximenes, Villa Torlonia, Quartiere Coppede, MACRO, La Rinascente, Villa Borghese/Pincio
As we navigate through the northwest of central Rome, we concentrate on how contemporary Rome has built on its historical fabric as a source of fantasy, as well as seeing a series of attempts to integrate modern architecture at its most fantastic into the city.
9am meet outside the entrance of S. Maria degli Angeli on the north side of the Piazza della Repubblica (Repubblica stop on the red line).
1pm break for lunch at Villa Borghese
2pm-5pm reconvene for drawing exercise