Sketchbook: Process

Research:

When beginning this assignment, I created a list of aspects from past sketchbooks that annoyed and frustrated me.  I came up with many solutions to these problems that I could use in my sketchbook and that would help its functionality.  The list I created is shown below:

What annoys/frustrates you about past sketchbooks?

• • • binding gets in the way when using the back sides of sheets
    • not additive
    • paper frays on edges
    • restrictive: paper can’t move/locked in
    • if it has a binding, the book won’t lay flat
    • front and back cover bend
    • all one material – paper is the same throughout
    • no lines to write on
    • no organization possibilities
      • pages all look the same
    • not easily removable
    • opens easily

Solutions/optimizations:

• • • using a ring binding to hold pages
      • additive
    • etching lines and blank spots into pages for easy organizing
    • metal binding to secure book
    • wooden cover for durability leather binding
    • use different media
      • bristol
      • drawing paper
      • tracing paper
      • index cards
      • copier paper
    • Utensil holder
      • pens and pencils
      • eraser
      • ruler
      • sharpie/micron
    • magnet to hold book shut

I had a general idea of the materials that I wanted to use for my sketchbook.  I felt that a combination of wood and leather would make for a durable cover and binding, so I conducted my research around those materials.  The first step being centered around making a wooden cover that felt smooth to the touch with a nice finish.

To achieve this type of finish for the cover, I turned to my brother, who has more carpentry experience than me.  He advised using 4 different grains of sandpaper, starting at 60 grit, and gradually increasing to 320 grit.  Following the sanding process, he said to wipe the wood off with a tack cloth, and apply the desired color stain to the wood in two coats.  Once dry, use the highest grit sandpaper available to smooth over the wood once more, then go over it again with a tack cloth.  This will ensure that all the sawdust from the sandpaper is removed from the board, leaving it clean.  Once the board is cleaned off, apply one more coat of stain, and allow it to dry.  The finished board will be smooth to the touch and have a stained, finished look.

The next step of research I conducted pertained to using leather as a form of binding.  Having no prior sewing or stitching experience, this material worried me, but I continued my research.  I needed to learn how to join two pieces of leather with a simple stitch that looked durable and paired well with the stained wood cover.  I looked online at different sewing tutorials, and found one that worked best.  I used the backstitch method from sewing.com to join two test pieces of cloth, and felt that this would work best.

Exercise 1: Mini Sketchbook

 

Iterations:

When initially mapping out the sketchbook, I needed to decide how large the pages would be, as the dimensions of the pages dictate the dimensions of the book itself.  I needed to make sure that the book was small enough to fit in my bag and not annoying to carry in my hands over longer walks.  There were three paper dimensions that I considered:

• • 5″ x 7″
  • 5.5″ x 8.5″
  • 8.5″ x 11″

In making each paper size, I noticed that the 8.5″ x 11″ page was a bit large and would be a hassle to carry when walking.  On the contrary, the 5″ x 7″ page was too small and offered little space for me to work in.  I felt that the 5.5″ x 8.5″ page size was the best medium, so I gathered the paper mediums that I wanted to include: index cards, Bristol, drawing, and copier paper.  In order to laser cut the paper, I had to figure out how many sketchbook pages I could cut out of the original material sheet.  The sheet to sketchbook pages ratios are shown below.

• • 1 sheet of Bristol paper (14″ x 17″) : 3 sketchbook pages
  • 1 sheet of drawing paper (9″ x 12″) : 2 sketchbook pages
  • 1 sheet of copier paper (8.5″ x 11″) : 2 sketchbook pages
  • 1 index card (3″ x 5″) : 1 sketchbook page

Because I wanted an unrestrictive sketchbook (one that I can add and take out pages) , I knew that it didn’t have to be too thick.  I estimated that around 60 pages of paper would be a good amount to include, so I started figuring out how much of each media to include.  The sheet to page ratio, along with a count of the total number pages is shown below.

• • 4 pages of Bristol paper : 12 sketchbook pages
  • 10 sheets of drawing paper : 20 sketchbook pages
  • 10 sheets of copier paper : 20 sketchbook pages
  • 10 note cards : 10 sketchbook pages
  • Total pages: 62

I inspected the paper after it was done laser cutting.  The only material that didn’t work nicely was the copier paper, perhaps because it was much thinner and the sketchbook page dimensions were tighter than the other papers.  I decided to omit the last four pages of copier paper, as they each had burn marks and weren’t cut to the right size.  This brought the total page count to 58, rather than the expected 62 pages.

The page sizing then allowed me to find the size cover I wanted.  I knew that there needed to be room on the top and bottom of the sketchbook so the paper was entirely protected by the cover.  I figured that half an inch extra for the cover was enough on the top and bottom to protect the paper, but the width measurements were a bit more difficult.  I had to take into account that the metal ring mechanism would take space and offset the paper to the side.  Using this, I had two measurements that I could test:

• • 9.5″ x 6.5″
  • 9.5″ x 7″

I cut wooden test boards according to these measurements.  The half inch difference in width between the two proved to be beneficial, as the 6.5″ board left little room for the rings.  I decided to use the 7″ width because, no matter the size of the rings, the pages would all fit within the boundaries set by the cover.  I used a circular saw to cut 8 9.5″ x 7″ boards from a larger piece of plywood that I bought at Home Depot.

When first reading the assignment, I knew that I wanted a more professional look, rather than a personal one.  I always admired to look of books that had little identifying factors of what they were, and that left their contents up to the imagination.  This reason is why I chose to use a more simple and geometric pattern for the cover design.  There were three different designs I had to choose from.  They are shown below.

I felt that the geometric pattern on the first possible design was best, as it implies diamond shapes where the differing rectangles meet.  The other two were simple and would work fine, but overall I thought the first would work better, especially if I expanded on it and improved the line work.  I realized that the leather binding needed to connect to the wooden cover if I wanted the cover to all feel like one piece, so I added 1 inch margins to the lateral dimensions of both covers where they meet.

My brainstorming session for this project led me to use a ring binder mechanism, similar to three ring binders used for school, as it is additive and adds stability to the cover sketchbook.  Moreover, if I wanted to include index cards, as outlined in my research, I would need a way to attach them to the rings.  The dimensions of the book allow for two index cards to be be placed where one full 5.5″ x 8.5″ , but, in order to do that, there would need to be 4 rings: 2 rings per index card.  The layout for the binding mechanism plans are below.

Once I had the sizing for it, I started to make different iterations of the metal ring mechanism.  I was initially going to use parts from old 3-ring binders and connect them, but the spacing between the rings did not fit the paper specifications.  The next idea I tried was cutting a 12 inch metal ruler down to 8.5″, cutting 8 ring holes, 2 per ring, and then bending the ruler to a 90 degree angle.  The ruler ended up being too thick, and cutting holes in it wasn’t possible.  Similarly, it wouldn’t bend, so I decided to look for new material to use.

I went to a local hardware store, and found a corner piece for joining two sheets of drywall.  It contained was a thin, pliable metal sheet, already bent at a 90 degree corner, with a paper covering.  I measured and a cut an 8.5″ piece, and marked spots for the rings.  Then, I used an electric drill with a fine drill-bit and cut out the 8 holes for the rings.  With the major modifications done, I spray painted the mechanism black in 3 coats, sanding after each to ensure a smooth texture.  The ends of the material I cut along were sharp and hazardous so I began to bend and mold the metal to smooth it out.  I made three different iterations, each building off the problems of the previous design.  The three iterations are shown below.

With the ring mechanism made, I could test how big the leather binding of the book needed to be by substituting the leather with paper.  I found that a piece of leather with a 4 inch width (taking into account 1 width per cover, and a two inch binding for the rings), and a 9.5″ height, would allow the book the right amount of exterior binding to close completely.  The inside binding would need the same dimensions as the exterior, only without the 2-1 inch margins.  My plans for the binding and cover are detailed below.

With the binding plans complete, I began practicing and refining my stitch-work and sewing technique.  I was extremely disappointed with my first attempt, as the sewn lines were not straight and had poor spacing.  I attempted it again, this time pre-marking the path I wanted to sew along, and going over the line with a safety pin, making sure the spacing was right.  This time, it was better, but the precut holes were difficult to find, resulting in another curved stitch line.  I decided to call leather workers and cobblers around Columbus to see if they could help me.  After being turned down and referred to other companies, I found a place that would help me.  The company’s name is Old Salts Leatherworks.  I visited him, and he gave me tools to use that would better precut the fabric, making it easier to see and stitch.  The tools I used are shown below.  This attempt proved to be the best, as I stitched a straight line that looked like it was done by a sewing machine.

Using these tools, I stitched the two pieces of leather together for the binding.  I added in a cross pattern in the middle of the binding, as it stops the leather folding over itself and helps it hold its form.  I stitched together the other two leather pieces that would act as the clasp to keep the book shut, adding in a magnet to ensure the book would stay closed when intended to.

One of the requirements of this project was to include a surprise element.  I decided to include a built-in supply holder, making room for a pencil, pen, sharpie, micron pen, and eraser.  I organized the supplies on a foam sheet, and cut out rough silhouettes of each.  I repeated this process on another sheet of foam, and glued the two sheets together, giving enough depth to hold and lock in the supplies.  I tested the security offered by the foam by putting the drawing utensils in their respective spaces, and shook the foam.  The utensils all stayed embedded and did not move from their original positions.  I spray painted the foam sheets black to make it look sleek, but found that the paint warped the foam.  Before it dried and was permanently warped, I wiped off the outer layer of spray paint, and hand painted it.  This worked better, as the foam held its original position.

Production:

The first step I took in the production process was to laser cut my cover design into a 1/4″ thick plywood board.  I did it in two layers, labelled major and minor cuts.  The major cuts, which would be cut deeper into the wood, entailed the rectangular grid pattern and descending lines, further spaced apart.  The minor cuts, on the other hand, included the ascending lines that were spaced closer together.

For the back cover, I chose to not laser cut a pattern.  Instead, I would just laser cut my name, class, and the school semester, while letting the grain of the wood show through. The raw laser cut boards are shown below.

After the design was laser cut, I noticed that it was not flush to the edges.  To fix this look, I sanded down the left and bottom sides to the line that was made by the laser.  When comparing the new sizes of the covers, I noticed that they were a perfect match.  I then used a Dremel with a 60 grit sandpaper attachment to indent the 1 inch margins into the board; two on the back cover, and one on the top.  Now that this step was complete, I could start working on the texture and color of the wood.  I started this process by sanding the entire board with 80 grit sandpaper, ensuring to smooth the hard corners and edges.  This step also helped remove the burn marks from the laser, best demonstrated on the back cover in the image above.

I sanded the board again, this time with 120 grit sandpaper.  I repeated this process two more times, once with 22o grit, and again with 32o grit sandpaper.  Then, I wiped off the board with a tack cloth and applied a coat of light red stain.  Once dry, I applied another coat of stain, this one mixed with polyurethane to create a smooth touch.  Once dry, I again sanded the board with 320 grit sandpaper, and applied a final coat of stain.  The final cover board is shown below:

Upon seeing the sewn leather binding and wooden boards next to each other, I noticed that I might need an extra measure of security to hold them together.  I decided to cut holes into the margin part of the boards and sew them to the leather with an ‘X’ pattern.  Each board would be attached using three of these patterns. The stitching is shown below.

I ran into a problem at this part of the production process.  The height of the ring mechanism was too tall for the binding of the book, so I had to think about ways to decrease it.  I thought of two solutions:

• • Use a smaller ring to hold the paper
    • Downside:  less paper storage; maximum of 40 pages
  • Use a Dremel attachment that can cut metal and cut 1 centimeter from the bottom of both sides, ensuring to round the edges
    • Downside: None

I figured that the best solution would be to cut 1 centimeter from the bottom of the metal piece, taking an even amount from each side.  Once I had the majority of it cut away, I worked on rounding the edges and smoothing the sharp parts.  I tested this design compared to the previous one, and the book could successfully close without the ring pushing at the cover.

Now that the majority of construction was complete, I used epoxy to seal the leather bindings to the boards.  The spine of the book was sealed to both the front and back cover, while the clasp was only attached to the back cover.  I held the desired position of the leather on the wood by using masking tape.  Once the epoxy was dry, I removed the tape.

I had a general idea of how the book would close, and how the covers were positioned on top of each other, so got started at positioning the magnet that would hold the clasp to the top cover.  I figured that I could embed the magnet into the back of the foam utensil holder, making it hidden.  The magnets I was using were too large to hide behind the foam, so I broke them into smaller pieces with a hammer.  Once I had a size that would work with the foam, I carved out a hole in the back of the foam, and glued the magnet into position.  Once dry, I used epoxy to seal the foam piece to the back of the front cover.

Now that the construction of the sketchbook was complete, I used weights to form and mold the leather to the position of the closed book.  The final sketchbook assignment is shown below.

 

 

Link to Portfolio Project:

View the Sketchbook Project at Sketchbook.