Today the class started the day taking a tour of the Jewish neighborhoods of Buenos Aires. Although there is only a small population of Jewish Argentines in this very Catholic country, the community is very prominent and active. We started by taking a trip to AMIA. AMIA is the Argentine Jewish cultural center and federation. It also serves as a networking and umbrella organization who strives to help the Jewish community. It is impossible to talk about AMIA and their struggle, without talking about the tragic 1994 bombing which left 86 dead and many more injured. Israeli artist Yaacob Agam created one of the most impressive optical sculptures, I have ever seen. Named the Homenaje y Recordanción a las Victimas del Atentado a la AMIA del 18 de Julio de 1994, it is build upon a platform that forms the Star of David, with seven different images representing destruction, Chanukah, the Star of David, a rainbow, Menorah, Magen David, and finally the symbol of AMIA. This is all created with 9 upright columns that when in different positions change into the different images.

Next the gang took a trip to the largest synagogue in Buenos Aires. This castile like temple is called Synagogue de la Congregación Israelita. This beautiful synagogue is still in use today, holding regular services Saturdays and Sundays. The conservative Jewish congregation also had a Jewish heritage museum. This had many artifacts from the Holocaust and also records of the first Jewish immigrates and settlements in Argentina.

After leaving the “Templo Libertad” we went to the former farmers market and current shopping mall, Abasto. Abasto Shopping mall is very Americanized. You can see many American stores and food but the most excited this in Abasto is McDonald’s! Yes, a weird thing to say, but this is no ordinary McDonald’s. This McDonald is actually the only kosher McDonalds outside of Israel.

After the class took a quick lunch break, we were joined by Professor Lila Caimari. She is a very knowledgeable Argentine political scientist who has taught in Argentina, France and The United States. Professor Caimari covered a big array of our questions from Independence Day, current politics, ethnic makeup, and providence inequality. Where we mostly focused, were Peronism and its lasting legacy. We had an open discussion about why Peronism has been able to survive so long, citing the differences between the different eras and comparing them all to the Peronism we see today in Argentina, Kirchnerism.

To end the day, the group ate at Pasaje Resto, one of Argentina’s most famous kosher restaurants. The menu included many cultural and typical Jewish, Argentine foods. We enjoyed salads, empanadas, pizza, and pasta.

Today the class took a trip to the National Historical Museum in San Telmo, a vibrant, upscale district with many French style buildings and grandiose and colorful churches. Upon arriving we saw the museum’s beautiful yard complete with many full gardens and commemorative and decorative statues celebrating San Martín.

The museum showcased the historical importance of San Martín in Argentine history and revolution. We were able to see reconstructions of San Martín’s living quarters with the actual furniture and floor plan. It was interesting to find out that San Martín, although a Spaniard, actually lived in France, and his granddaughter who donated the furniture lives there as well. We examined the different décor and living styles of this period’s colonial upper-class. Next we looked at San Martín’s clothing, highlighting the differences in poncho meanings and his formal solider uniform. The tour guide directed us to a quote from San Martín describing his views on the cavalry, solders, and roles of blacks and mixed peoples. “El major soldado… que tenemos son los negros y mulatos; los de estas provincias [blancos] no son aptos sino para caballería” (the best solders… we have are the blacks and mixed peoples: those of these provinces [whites] are not fit for the cavalry).

I think this really shows the historical diversity that is in Argentine culture and go against the “No hay negros en Argentina” (There are no blacks in Argentina) myth which is present in modern popular culture. To finish the tour we discussed the Argentine revolutions. First we touched on San Martín’s role and moved into talks about what el 25 de Mayo, one of two days celebrating independence in Argentina, actually represents. May 25^th for Argentina, is not about the beginning or the end of a battle, but rather the beginning of a movement. This was a huge moment for the population of Argentina, in which they came together as one unit to overcome the colonial power, as one, white, black and mixed, Argentina fought.

After leaving the National Historical Museum we headed to La Boca. The streets were filled with many people, with venders on each side. In the streets danced many couples, performing the famous and suave Argentine tango, on the cobble stone streets of the markets with the bright colored houses in the background. The venders sold authentic Argentine foods like empanadas (a type of pastry that has either cheese, meat, vegetables or a combination) and alfajores (dessert with two cookies and dulce de leche in between then dipped in chocolate), cultural treasures like paintings and jewelry, and souvenirs like key chains and maté cups (a cultural tea enjoyed by many Argentines) with Argentina and images of famous Argentine people like Lionel Messi, Eva Perón, and Che Guevara.

To wrap up our excursion to La Boca, we went to see La Bombonera, the stadium of the local soccer, or fútbol, team the Boca Juniors. Along the walls we saw many pictures depicting the culture and history of the Boca Juniors. Proud flags hanged everywhere with paintings of fútbol plays and soccer balls. One mural painting pointed out a key part of Boca Junior history: their colors. A Swedish ship crosses a blue ocean as a hand pants a yellow line over the blue background. The uniforms of Boca Juniors were actually pink but after their first game, the colors would change, and the color change would depend on the next ship that came into the port. When the Swedish ship crossed and docked, the official colors of Boca Juniors changed to blue and yellow, the same as the Swedish flag.