On Tuesday, May 26^th, our class went on a tour of Buenos Aires’ Jewish neighborhood. Argentina has a large Jewish community of about 300,000 people, the vast majority of whom reside in the city and suburbs of Buenos Aires. This constitutes the sixth-largest Jewish community in the world, albeit it was at one point the third largest. We started the day with a visit to AMIA, the main association for Jewish people living in Argentina. AMIA had been bombed in 1994 in what is the single deadliest bombing in Argentine history, killing some 85 people and injuring hundreds more. For this reason, the AMIA compound is heavily protected by security protocols, and getting in involves airport-style security and submitting one’s passport for inspection.

Once we gained access to the compound, our tour guide provided us with a brief introduction to AMIA. She explained to us the significance of a strikingly beautiful work of art in the compound’s courtyard that was created in commemoration of the victims who perished in the 1994 bombings. The work is composed of nine colorful pillars, meant to symbolize a Hanukia. From different angles, one can enjoy different views of the artwork, seeing the Israeli flag, the logo of AMIA, etc.

AMIA Pillars

Our tour guide then presented us with a work of art dedicated to the 1,900 Jews who lost their lives or disappeared under the rule of the military junta between the years 1976 and 1983. Given that the total number of those who disappeared is about 30,000, it is clear that Jews made up a disproportional amount of those affected. The dictatorship targeted those involved in or suspected of being involved in left-wing politics and activism, and Jews were frequently stereotyped as communists. The empty womb of the mother in the artwork was meant to symbolize those who were lost.

AMIA Artwork

We then entered the main building, where we watched a short video detailing AMIA’s work. AMIA supports the Argentine Jewish community by providing social services, helping with job placements, educating people about Jewish history, promoting respect for diversity, etc. The guide also touched upon a few topics of Jewish Argentine history, talking a bit about Jewish gauchos, the first Jewish immigrants to Argentina, and a few other matters. One of the biggest ironies is that Argentina both accepted Jewish immigrants throughout its history and sheltered the Nazis during and after World War II. I also found it interesting that the Argentine Constitution did not provide for civil marriage until 1888, forcing non-Catholics to undergo Catholic rites in order to marry. Another point of interest is that the President of Argentina, until 1994, had to be a Catholic. For this reason, Carlos Menem had to convert from Sunni Islam to Catholicism in order to assume the presidency.

After our visit to AMIA, we took a brief stroll around the Jewish neighborhood. We went to the Abasto shopping mall, where we had the opportunity to see the only Kosher McDonald’s outside of the State of Israel. As Adriana mentioned, this is pretty incredible given the U.S.’s very large Jewish population, numbering around six million.

Kosher McDonald’s

We next visited a Conservative Jewish synagogue. I was surprised to see that it was constructed very much in the style of a Church; it was very large and splendidly beautiful. The Rabbi explained to our group the significance of various Jewish symbols and talked a bit about the lengthy Jewish history of Argentina and how it is closely intertwined with Argentina’s rich history as a nation of immigrants. Afterwards, we examined some documents and artifacts in the temple’s museum.

Jewish Temple

Next, we briefly visited the site of the old Israeli Embassy, next to the present-day Romanian Embassy. In 1992, the embassy was bombed, and 29 people were killed and 242 were injured. We took a look at the memorial honoring those who perished.

Old Israeli Embassy

After enjoying lunch on our own, it was time to return to the hotel for a two-hour discussion with an Argentinean political science professor. Our group posited many questions to her, and I learned a great deal of information about such varied topics as Peronism, Evita, Catholic Church influence in Argentina, Kirchnerism, the Argentine welfare state, and social issues in Argentina. I found what she had to say very interesting and illuminating.

After an afternoon break and a siesta, we proceeded to dinner at El Pasaje Resto, a delicious Kosher restaurant. There, we enjoyed scrumptious appetizers, salads, pizzas, pastas, and desserts. It was probably my favorite restaurant outing of the whole trip.

Tuesday, May 26 was definitely a long day, but I learned so much about the Argentine Jewish community that I did not know before. I look forward to exploring more of Buenos Aires and discovering more about Argentine history in the days ahead.

-Mircea Lazar

On Wednesday, May 20^th, we started off the day with a lecture from Maria Victoria on Argentinean merchants and trade networks and on marriage and racial classifications in pre-independence Argentina. It was really interesting to see the plethora of racial categorizations and the complex racial structure that demarcated certain marriages apart from others. We also looked at a variety of primary source documents, among which was a list containing the entire contents of a wealthy woman’s dowry. Besides fine jewelry, furniture, and other objects from all over South America, Europe, and Asia, her dowry also included a young slave girl. There were myriad controls and restrictions on marriage; however, Professor Newell iterated that women in Spanish America, unlike women in British America, retained certain rights over their property and personhood. We also learned about the importance of the complex trade networks, stretching up to the Lima and beyond, and how the Native Americans of the region played a vital role in securing the success of these networks.

After taking a short break for lunch, the group proceeded to the National Historical Museum. There, we viewed a variety of Argentine relics and learned more about the country’s history. The guide emphasized José de San Martín’s important role in securing independence for Argentina, Chile, and Peru. I was surprised to learn that he had actually spent a great deal of his life in Europe, an ironic fact given that he is widely revered alongside Bolívar as a liberator of South America from colonial rule. She also presented us with a representation of what the general’s room would have looked like. He was short in height, not unlike Napoleon; the spread of disease and the relative inadequacy of nutrition in that time meant that most individuals were not tall by modern standards. The use of chamber pots and their disposal in the streets also accelerated the spread of disease, already unchecked by the sewage-tainted water supply. Surprisingly, San Martín lived to the age of 72, a rare feat uncommon for a time in which most did not make it past fifty. Our guide also described the system of governance of colonial Buenos Aires and emphasized that although those in government were required to be property-owning white men, women, people of color, and working-class individuals were not necessarily deferential to authority and commonly spoke out regarding their hopes and concerns for the future.

San Martin

San Martin’s Room

After our visit to the museum, our group decided to visit the eclectic and culturally-rich neighborhood of La Boca. This barrio, with its strong Italian heritage and colorful houses, is a popular destination for tourists visiting Buenos Aires. Tango shows, clubs, taverns, gift shops, and a diverse array of restaurants dot this vibrant community. It was enjoyable to walk the cobblestone streets among the tango performers and street vendors. As a working-class community, it also has a long history of radical, left-wing politics and demonstrations.

La Boca

Street Art in La Boca

After our visit to the beautiful community of La Boca, we undertook a trip to the nearby soccer stadium. Soccer, or fútbol, is a part of the Argentine national consciousness, and most citizens of this nation display a zeal for the sport largely unmatched throughout the world. Here, people are sometimes even killed at soccer matches that turn violent. I was also surprised to find out how cheap the jerseys are here in comparison to those found in the United States. In some ways, this expands the ability of members of society of all social strata to come together and take part in a shared, collective experience.

Soccer Stadium

I was also pleased to see the beautiful art that adorns the stadium, with each panel representing some historical event or occurrence. In Buenos Aires, art is clearly very important and even the graffiti has a deep cultural meaning.

Soccer Stadium Art

Today was another enjoyable and educational day in Buenos Aires. I look forward to further developing my knowledge of Argentinean history and culture in the days to come.