On Wednesday, May 20th, we started off the day with a lecture from Maria Victoria on Argentinean merchants and trade networks and on marriage and racial classifications in pre-independence Argentina. It was really interesting to see the plethora of racial categorizations and the complex racial structure that demarcated certain marriages apart from others. We also looked at a variety of primary source documents, among which was a list containing the entire contents of a wealthy woman’s dowry. Besides fine jewelry, furniture, and other objects from all over South America, Europe, and Asia, her dowry also included a young slave girl. There were myriad controls and restrictions on marriage; however, Professor Newell iterated that women in Spanish America, unlike women in British America, retained certain rights over their property and personhood. We also learned about the importance of the complex trade networks, stretching up to the Lima and beyond, and how the Native Americans of the region played a vital role in securing the success of these networks.
After taking a short break for lunch, the group proceeded to the National Historical Museum. There, we viewed a variety of Argentine relics and learned more about the country’s history. The guide emphasized José de San Martín’s important role in securing independence for Argentina, Chile, and Peru. I was surprised to learn that he had actually spent a great deal of his life in Europe, an ironic fact given that he is widely revered alongside Bolívar as a liberator of South America from colonial rule. She also presented us with a representation of what the general’s room would have looked like. He was short in height, not unlike Napoleon; the spread of disease and the relative inadequacy of nutrition in that time meant that most individuals were not tall by modern standards. The use of chamber pots and their disposal in the streets also accelerated the spread of disease, already unchecked by the sewage-tainted water supply. Surprisingly, San Martín lived to the age of 72, a rare feat uncommon for a time in which most did not make it past fifty. Our guide also described the system of governance of colonial Buenos Aires and emphasized that although those in government were required to be property-owning white men, women, people of color, and working-class individuals were not necessarily deferential to authority and commonly spoke out regarding their hopes and concerns for the future.
San Martin
San Martin’s Room
After our visit to the museum, our group decided to visit the eclectic and culturally-rich neighborhood of La Boca. This barrio, with its strong Italian heritage and colorful houses, is a popular destination for tourists visiting Buenos Aires. Tango shows, clubs, taverns, gift shops, and a diverse array of restaurants dot this vibrant community. It was enjoyable to walk the cobblestone streets among the tango performers and street vendors. As a working-class community, it also has a long history of radical, left-wing politics and demonstrations.
La Boca
Street Art in La Boca
After our visit to the beautiful community of La Boca, we undertook a trip to the nearby soccer stadium. Soccer, or fútbol, is a part of the Argentine national consciousness, and most citizens of this nation display a zeal for the sport largely unmatched throughout the world. Here, people are sometimes even killed at soccer matches that turn violent. I was also surprised to find out how cheap the jerseys are here in comparison to those found in the United States. In some ways, this expands the ability of members of society of all social strata to come together and take part in a shared, collective experience.
Soccer Stadium
I was also pleased to see the beautiful art that adorns the stadium, with each panel representing some historical event or occurrence. In Buenos Aires, art is clearly very important and even the graffiti has a deep cultural meaning.
Soccer Stadium Art
Today was another enjoyable and educational day in Buenos Aires. I look forward to further developing my knowledge of Argentinean history and culture in the days to come.