On Wednesday, May 20^th, we started off the day with a lecture from Maria Victoria on Argentinean merchants and trade networks and on marriage and racial classifications in pre-independence Argentina. It was really interesting to see the plethora of racial categorizations and the complex racial structure that demarcated certain marriages apart from others. We also looked at a variety of primary source documents, among which was a list containing the entire contents of a wealthy woman’s dowry. Besides fine jewelry, furniture, and other objects from all over South America, Europe, and Asia, her dowry also included a young slave girl. There were myriad controls and restrictions on marriage; however, Professor Newell iterated that women in Spanish America, unlike women in British America, retained certain rights over their property and personhood. We also learned about the importance of the complex trade networks, stretching up to the Lima and beyond, and how the Native Americans of the region played a vital role in securing the success of these networks.

After taking a short break for lunch, the group proceeded to the National Historical Museum. There, we viewed a variety of Argentine relics and learned more about the country’s history. The guide emphasized José de San Martín’s important role in securing independence for Argentina, Chile, and Peru. I was surprised to learn that he had actually spent a great deal of his life in Europe, an ironic fact given that he is widely revered alongside Bolívar as a liberator of South America from colonial rule. She also presented us with a representation of what the general’s room would have looked like. He was short in height, not unlike Napoleon; the spread of disease and the relative inadequacy of nutrition in that time meant that most individuals were not tall by modern standards. The use of chamber pots and their disposal in the streets also accelerated the spread of disease, already unchecked by the sewage-tainted water supply. Surprisingly, San Martín lived to the age of 72, a rare feat uncommon for a time in which most did not make it past fifty. Our guide also described the system of governance of colonial Buenos Aires and emphasized that although those in government were required to be property-owning white men, women, people of color, and working-class individuals were not necessarily deferential to authority and commonly spoke out regarding their hopes and concerns for the future.

San Martin

San Martin’s Room

After our visit to the museum, our group decided to visit the eclectic and culturally-rich neighborhood of La Boca. This barrio, with its strong Italian heritage and colorful houses, is a popular destination for tourists visiting Buenos Aires. Tango shows, clubs, taverns, gift shops, and a diverse array of restaurants dot this vibrant community. It was enjoyable to walk the cobblestone streets among the tango performers and street vendors. As a working-class community, it also has a long history of radical, left-wing politics and demonstrations.

La Boca

Street Art in La Boca

After our visit to the beautiful community of La Boca, we undertook a trip to the nearby soccer stadium. Soccer, or fútbol, is a part of the Argentine national consciousness, and most citizens of this nation display a zeal for the sport largely unmatched throughout the world. Here, people are sometimes even killed at soccer matches that turn violent. I was also surprised to find out how cheap the jerseys are here in comparison to those found in the United States. In some ways, this expands the ability of members of society of all social strata to come together and take part in a shared, collective experience.

Soccer Stadium

I was also pleased to see the beautiful art that adorns the stadium, with each panel representing some historical event or occurrence. In Buenos Aires, art is clearly very important and even the graffiti has a deep cultural meaning.

Soccer Stadium Art

Today was another enjoyable and educational day in Buenos Aires. I look forward to further developing my knowledge of Argentinean history and culture in the days to come.

Today, we had the opportunity to visit the country’s national archives and learn about the history of the railroad in the country and view the extensive preservation and storage process for historical documents and photos that tell the good and bad of the country’s story. Railroads in Argentina, just as in the United States, played a large role in the spread of people and ideas during the late 19th and 20th centuries and is currently the 8th largest network in the world. Argentina, despite its rich history, is still developing as country in terms of infrastructure. The building where the archives are stored was very humid and lacked a reasonable ventilation system to create an environment suitable for storage of the delicate items.

The most interesting part of the day for me was the opportunity to tour the area around La Casa Rosada and Plaza de Mayo. We had the opportunity to see remnants of the 1955 bombing of Plaza de Mayo, an act orchestrated by the Argentine Navy and Air Force as they opposed the Juan Perón era of government. One of the interesting things I have realized about Argentina’s government and its relationship with the people. Argentinians have great national pride and loyalty despite its recent legacy of dictatorship and political corruption. One of the buildings in Plaza de Mayo has never been restored from its damage from the bombings in order to remember the event and honor the lives lost in the tragedy.

I have realized that the city of Buenos Aires is very unique because it shares a personal history and the history of the nation. While exploring Plaza de Mayo, we had the opportunity to watch the Mothers of the Plaza de Mayo march for answers to the disappearance of their children during the “Dirty War” period. Many people marched in solidarity with the mothers as they chanted and sang around the May Pyramid in the center of the plaza. It was interesting to witness this because of the events taking place in the United States right now as people of color are searching for answers and a resolution to a culture of state violence. It brings up a question of if things will ever be solved if these women are still searching for answers from their government over 30 years later.

On the bright side, it was a beautiful day in the city. We had the opportunity to see people on their morning commute to work, children on field trips, tango street performers, and people doing yoga in the park. Overall, Buenos Aires is a vibrant city and I look forward to uncovering more of the culture in the upcoming days.