On Thursday, May 28th we began with class in the hotel and then we visited the Buenos Aires cathedral which was an amazing sight to see. When I first entered the cathedral I was impressed but it wasn’t until progressing a bit further that I realized just how big this cathedral was. It reminded me a lot of when I went to Spain and saw one of the biggest cathedrals in Europe. There are parts of the cathedral that one would think could only be found in Europe but are still implemented into the architecture. There is certainly a lot of European influence but it’s amazing how Argentina still how it’s own distinct elements in a place like this. We then went to the Museum of the Revolution which had a lot more kid-oriented things and kids than I had anticipated. The museum was impressive and offered a balcony view that let us see plaza de mayo from another perspective. This is a reoccurring theme for Buenos Aires as there are an unbelievable amount of different ways to look at any one point in the city. We continued to walk around and see different parts of the city and then proceeded to visit an almost ancient bookstore which felt like something one might find in Manhattan but retained it’s own elements and was an amazing thing to see. It was also amusing to see how the names of books and movies are changed when they’re translated to Spanish. The bookstore gave a familiar feeling that wasn’t too far off from something in the United States which was nice because it showed that although different cultures go about certain things with their own style, in the end there are striking similarities between how humans layout something such as a bookstore. After the bookstore we went to Cafe Tortoni. This was a nice change because many of the times we’ve gotten food we’ve had ice cream for dessert but this time I had the opportunity to try a cake-like dessert that had chocolate mousse and dulce de leche. After taking some time to eat and talk at the cafe, we walked for a while and saw the Congress Building. It was once again amazing to see how similar this building was to something of the same nature that would be found in the United States. By the end of the day I really felt that it was incredible how even though cultures can be very different, there are still underlying common factors about how people layout and create their society.  

Thursday May 28th, 2015

The first stop of the day was the Buenos Aires Cathedral, once inside you could view the tomb of Jose de San Martin.  To see the tomb of one of the most revered people in all of South America up close was really cool. One of the interesting things about the tomb itself are the three statues that surround it; the statues represent the three countries, Argentina, Peru, and Chile, that San Martin had played a large part in freeing.

The cathedral itself was very large and according to our tour guide it has a rare depiction of Christ in which he is nailed to the cross using four nails instead of the usual three.

The next stop was the National Revolution Museum. It was interesting to see the some of the things that were actually used during the revolution such as a battle standard. The architecture of the museum was very Spanish, which I found interesting because I had not really seen that style around Buenos Aires.

Afterwards we walked to some of the oldest parts of the city, parts that are so old that cars are not allowed to drive in fear of the buildings falling down. One of the stops happened to be the oldest bookstore and it has had past Presidents of Argentina shop there.

As we continued our walk down Mayo Avenue we stopped at Cafe Tortoni. Cafe Tortoni has been around many years and has been used by the many luminaries of Buenos Aires. Alfonsina Storni, an author from a passage in the Argentine Reader, has a spot dedicated to her in the Cafe. The Cafe Tortoni also has a table dedicated to some of its other famous customers. A trip to the Cafe Tortoni also allows a customer to have access to a barber shop as well.

Our final stop on the tour was the Congress Building. The walk up to the building was very fascinating filled with gardens and sculptures such as The Thinker by Rodin. The pathway also contained a pneumatic system that connected the Pink Palace and the Congress Building. The entire tour was filled with a lot of history and interesting architecture. The tour stops really help me connect the material that we learn in class with the historical relevance of the actual buildings.

On Tuesday, May 26^th, our class went on a tour of Buenos Aires’ Jewish neighborhood. Argentina has a large Jewish community of about 300,000 people, the vast majority of whom reside in the city and suburbs of Buenos Aires. This constitutes the sixth-largest Jewish community in the world, albeit it was at one point the third largest. We started the day with a visit to AMIA, the main association for Jewish people living in Argentina. AMIA had been bombed in 1994 in what is the single deadliest bombing in Argentine history, killing some 85 people and injuring hundreds more. For this reason, the AMIA compound is heavily protected by security protocols, and getting in involves airport-style security and submitting one’s passport for inspection.

Once we gained access to the compound, our tour guide provided us with a brief introduction to AMIA. She explained to us the significance of a strikingly beautiful work of art in the compound’s courtyard that was created in commemoration of the victims who perished in the 1994 bombings. The work is composed of nine colorful pillars, meant to symbolize a Hanukia. From different angles, one can enjoy different views of the artwork, seeing the Israeli flag, the logo of AMIA, etc.

AMIA Pillars

Our tour guide then presented us with a work of art dedicated to the 1,900 Jews who lost their lives or disappeared under the rule of the military junta between the years 1976 and 1983. Given that the total number of those who disappeared is about 30,000, it is clear that Jews made up a disproportional amount of those affected. The dictatorship targeted those involved in or suspected of being involved in left-wing politics and activism, and Jews were frequently stereotyped as communists. The empty womb of the mother in the artwork was meant to symbolize those who were lost.

AMIA Artwork

We then entered the main building, where we watched a short video detailing AMIA’s work. AMIA supports the Argentine Jewish community by providing social services, helping with job placements, educating people about Jewish history, promoting respect for diversity, etc. The guide also touched upon a few topics of Jewish Argentine history, talking a bit about Jewish gauchos, the first Jewish immigrants to Argentina, and a few other matters. One of the biggest ironies is that Argentina both accepted Jewish immigrants throughout its history and sheltered the Nazis during and after World War II. I also found it interesting that the Argentine Constitution did not provide for civil marriage until 1888, forcing non-Catholics to undergo Catholic rites in order to marry. Another point of interest is that the President of Argentina, until 1994, had to be a Catholic. For this reason, Carlos Menem had to convert from Sunni Islam to Catholicism in order to assume the presidency.

After our visit to AMIA, we took a brief stroll around the Jewish neighborhood. We went to the Abasto shopping mall, where we had the opportunity to see the only Kosher McDonald’s outside of the State of Israel. As Adriana mentioned, this is pretty incredible given the U.S.’s very large Jewish population, numbering around six million.

Kosher McDonald’s

We next visited a Conservative Jewish synagogue. I was surprised to see that it was constructed very much in the style of a Church; it was very large and splendidly beautiful. The Rabbi explained to our group the significance of various Jewish symbols and talked a bit about the lengthy Jewish history of Argentina and how it is closely intertwined with Argentina’s rich history as a nation of immigrants. Afterwards, we examined some documents and artifacts in the temple’s museum.

Jewish Temple

Next, we briefly visited the site of the old Israeli Embassy, next to the present-day Romanian Embassy. In 1992, the embassy was bombed, and 29 people were killed and 242 were injured. We took a look at the memorial honoring those who perished.

Old Israeli Embassy

After enjoying lunch on our own, it was time to return to the hotel for a two-hour discussion with an Argentinean political science professor. Our group posited many questions to her, and I learned a great deal of information about such varied topics as Peronism, Evita, Catholic Church influence in Argentina, Kirchnerism, the Argentine welfare state, and social issues in Argentina. I found what she had to say very interesting and illuminating.

After an afternoon break and a siesta, we proceeded to dinner at El Pasaje Resto, a delicious Kosher restaurant. There, we enjoyed scrumptious appetizers, salads, pizzas, pastas, and desserts. It was probably my favorite restaurant outing of the whole trip.

Tuesday, May 26 was definitely a long day, but I learned so much about the Argentine Jewish community that I did not know before. I look forward to exploring more of Buenos Aires and discovering more about Argentine history in the days ahead.

-Mircea Lazar

5/24/2015

A week into the trip, we are becoming more accustomed to our new  Argentinian lifestyle; we are experts on the public transportation system, gradually learning the language, and know to never expect anything other than carne. We spent the first half of today exploring the San Telmo market and its rich culture.  The market- similar to a flee market in the U.S.A- was composed of endless tables and tents stretching in every direction in sight.  The locals were selling everything from food and drinks to art to clothing and accessories.  I used the time to buy my mother a purse and my father a hand carved, wooden wine holder.

In the process of getting my family gifts I quickly learned the culture of the market.  After traveling through many other countries with my family I assumed that bargaining would be commonplace.  While this is true to some degree at any market anywhere in the world, I noted that it was not as prevalent here.  Luckily, most prices were reasonable from the start.

In addition to the diverse array of goods, we ran into different street performers at every corner, including musical groups of sizes ranging from one to ten playing different instruments and singing, magicians, puppeteers, and dancers.  They were very talented and a big hit with the crowds, contributing to the fun and unique character of the market.

For lunch, we grabbed the city’s favorite street food- chorizos.  Made up of a grilled sausage cut in half on bread, this authentic “fast food” also comes with the option of toppings including veggies, chimichurri, and different sauces.  Although I can’t imagine that I would be happy to learn the ingredients of the somewhat suspect-looking sausage, I allowed myself to ignorantly close my eyes and continue to enjoy the juicy and delicious mid-day meal.

When we were ready to go back to the hotel we realized we had spent all of our pesos enjoying the market and that we would have to walk back!  Luckily, the excitement of the city streets persisted the entire journey back. We were surrounded by independence day festivals, street market, and bustling cafes and restaurants.  After an unusually lively Sunday, we were happy to return to the hotel for a siesta before getting dinner.

5/26/2015

Today was packed with excursions, class, and a huge dinner.  We started the day in the Jewish neighborhoods of Buenos Aires.  We had to bring our passport along with us because all of the facilities are maximum security as a result of a history of terrorist attacks.  Our first stop was AMIA, the Jewish community center and one of the victims of a major attack in the 90s.   To commemorate the victims, a plaque of names and a large art memorial donated by an Israeli artist stand in the outdoor entry “room” of the facility.  The art piece is composed of nine pillars (like a Hanukia) and illustrates different images from different perspectives.

We learned that AMIA stands at the center of daily Jewish life because 80-90% of the 300,000 Jews in Argentina reside in Buenos Aires.  Many of these people came to escape the Russian pogroms and the last years of the second world war.

Next, we made a stop at the local shopping mall where we got to see the only kosher McDonalds outside of Israel!

After a quick snack, we visited the central synagogue.  It was large and intricate, built much like a church.  We learned about Jewish history and customs from a staff member and were able to look through the synagogue’s museum.  Although I do not have any family in Argentina, I have Jewish family members who immigrated to other parts of the world to escape persecution.  Therefore, it was particularly interesting for me to learn how these people built their new lives, and how their descendants live today.

Next, we saw another memorial to the victims of the terrorist attacks and another developing historical memorial.

After the excursion,we headed back to the hotel for a class discussion with a local political scientist/historian.  I was particularly interested to learn about the evolution of Peronism in the country, as well as the similarities and differences in political party structure here and in the U.S..

Finally, we ended a long day with a delicious group dinner at a nearby authentic restaurant!

On Tuesday May 26, 2015 we went on many different tours focusing on Jewish neighborhoods and being Jewish in Argentina. I could talk all day about going to the neighborhood, the first Senegal, the only Kosher McDonalds outside of Israel, the old Israeli embassy and dinner at a Kosher restaurant. But I would like to focus this blog on what struck me the most about the day which was the tour of Amia.

Amia is a Jewish community center that promotes the individual, family and institutional growth of Jewish life in Argentina. Amia was originally founded when thousands of Jews began to migrate to the city and other urban areas in Buenos Aires. So because of that many different types of Jewish societies came together and in 1894 they established a place for Jew’s to come together as a community. This place was called Chevra Kadisha and it also included a cemetery where Jew’s were buried in their traditional ways. Over time this Chevra Kadisha transformed into the Association Mutual Israelita Argentina (AMIA). This place continued to grow and became a place that supported the communities education, social, health care and childcare needs.  

After years of success that AMIA provided to the Jewish community in Buenos Aires, something tragic took place in 1994 that struck Jews around the world. On July 18, 1994 a suicide bomber drove a van bomb into the Jewish Community Center which killed 85 people and inured hundreds. But it hurt more people than those killed or injured, it affected the families of the casualties, the families of the community center and the families of the Jewish religion.  It was classified as a terrorist attack but the real story of who was behind it is still a mystery.  However the community organized ways to keep the memory alive and is still demanding justice. 

But despite the loss caused by terrorism the the strong Jewish community rebuilt AMIA in 1999 at the same spot where the bombing took place. A beautiful art piece was then made to honor the victims of the horrified bombing. The art piece demonstrates a symbol against terrorism and the expression of Jew’s struggle, peace and truth. You can view this art piece in 7 different ways and it showed you 7 different images. Some of these views symbolized the Argentina & Jewish flag, a rain bow that shows that after rain sun shines, candles that represented looking into the past to move on to the future and many more.    

AMIA was then known to be very strong in time of hardship during the turn of the new century as Argentina went through a social & economic crisis. AMIA began to assist many different communities socially, by providing food & medication and by employing thousands of people. It still holds the same values and is still looked at as one of the best Jewish Community center not only in the country but the world.

On Tuesday May 26, 2015, we had a tour of Jewish neighborhoods and visited the site of AMIA, which is known as the “mother institution” and center of institutional life for the Jewish community. AMIA opened in 1945 and was the source of community initiatives, the Jewish Education Central Council, the Federation of Jewish Communities of Argentina, and Tzedaka Foundation, among others. The building moved after two suicide bombings, the first in 1992 and the second in 1994; destroying the building along with 85 victims being killed. The new building was inaugurated in 1999. The lives’ of the 85 victims are still being cherished to this day.

Yaacov Agam, a world-renowned Israeli artist, created a monument to the memory of the terrorist attack on AMIA. This monument portrays 7 different positions that each represent a part of the Jewish tradition.

This symbolizes an explosion of 9 columns for the destruction of Jewish values and symbols, a reminder of the July 18, 1994 tragedy.

In this position the star of David appears. The white color refers to the purity of the souls of the 85 people murdered and the paper of the documents and books that were destroyed in the home of AMIA.

 This is a double Menorah, seven-branch candle-holder that is the symbol of light and the Jewish people. One of the mirror images faces heaven, conveying hopes and illusions for the future, spirituality and study. The other faces the earth, concrete actions, as a form of reducing the traditions values, the essence and the roots.

Two white triangles appear, overlapped by a blue and a red one. The first symbolizes a man with broad shoulders and narrow hips, while the red one represents a women with narrow shoulders and broad hips. The man-women union is represented by the overlapping of both triangles, a union that then forms the family and the home, the principles that have kept the Jewish people alive along its history.

This is the institutional symbol of AMIA. This is a representation of a community that stands on its feet again, responding to hatred and violence with love and intelligence. It projects towards the future, securing continuity, supporting and endorsing every individual and collective expression of Jewish life in Argentina.

There are 250,000-300,000 Jewish people in Argentina that make up 54 communities, most of which are in big cities such as Buenos Aires. AMIA is an institution that fulfills its initial objectives, providing answers to the vital needs of the community. They aid 4,000 underprivileged families. They offer recreation and assistance to over 2,500 seniors. They help educate over 18,000 students. They help find over 2,000 jobs a year. They host centers attended by over 300 physically challenged persons. They organize a vast agenda of free activities attended by more than 100,000 people a year. It is unbelievable how much AMIA does to support the Jewish community of Argentina. They make life easier for the Jewish people and instill them with hope, so they are a very essential organization for Jewish life in Argentina.

The breakdown of the Jewish Community in Argentina cities.

This represents the “Disappeared Jews”

Feliz 25 de Mayo! Today is Argentinian Independence Day! We had a free morning today so I took some extra time to sleep in and refuel. At 2:00, we went to Malba, the modern art museum. I thought that this was a really cool experience because it was so different from any other museum we have been to. There were a lot of pieces that used light and optical illusions as part of the art and others that used human subjects. In one exhibit, there was a man standing with strings tied to him that went to pulleys the walls or ceiling and held up everyday things such as a coffee cup and a car bumper. This was really cool and kind of eerie because whenever the man moved, all the pulleys would squeak and the objects hanging around the room would move as well. Another exhibit had a man with a mask that was two rectangles put together to cover his face and was covered in lights. This man permanently lived in the museum and would walk around as he pleased.

After the museum, we went back to the hotel and many of us made our way back to the Plaza del Mayo where the celebrations for the 25 de Mayo were happening. There were people everywhere! Among them, there were a ton of vendors selling food and goods such as Argentina scarves and flags and lots of balloons. We stood near the middle of the plaza and listened to some live music for a while as everyone waited for President Christina Fernandez de Kirchner to speak

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After leaving the plaza, the group went to Las Nazarenas for Argentinian barbecue where they ate all parts of the cow. I, unfortunately, did not go on this excursion because I was not feeling well.

Today the class started the day taking a tour of the Jewish neighborhoods of Buenos Aires. Although there is only a small population of Jewish Argentines in this very Catholic country, the community is very prominent and active. We started by taking a trip to AMIA. AMIA is the Argentine Jewish cultural center and federation. It also serves as a networking and umbrella organization who strives to help the Jewish community. It is impossible to talk about AMIA and their struggle, without talking about the tragic 1994 bombing which left 86 dead and many more injured. Israeli artist Yaacob Agam created one of the most impressive optical sculptures, I have ever seen. Named the Homenaje y Recordanción a las Victimas del Atentado a la AMIA del 18 de Julio de 1994, it is build upon a platform that forms the Star of David, with seven different images representing destruction, Chanukah, the Star of David, a rainbow, Menorah, Magen David, and finally the symbol of AMIA. This is all created with 9 upright columns that when in different positions change into the different images.

Next the gang took a trip to the largest synagogue in Buenos Aires. This castile like temple is called Synagogue de la Congregación Israelita. This beautiful synagogue is still in use today, holding regular services Saturdays and Sundays. The conservative Jewish congregation also had a Jewish heritage museum. This had many artifacts from the Holocaust and also records of the first Jewish immigrates and settlements in Argentina.

After leaving the “Templo Libertad” we went to the former farmers market and current shopping mall, Abasto. Abasto Shopping mall is very Americanized. You can see many American stores and food but the most excited this in Abasto is McDonald’s! Yes, a weird thing to say, but this is no ordinary McDonald’s. This McDonald is actually the only kosher McDonalds outside of Israel.

After the class took a quick lunch break, we were joined by Professor Lila Caimari. She is a very knowledgeable Argentine political scientist who has taught in Argentina, France and The United States. Professor Caimari covered a big array of our questions from Independence Day, current politics, ethnic makeup, and providence inequality. Where we mostly focused, were Peronism and its lasting legacy. We had an open discussion about why Peronism has been able to survive so long, citing the differences between the different eras and comparing them all to the Peronism we see today in Argentina, Kirchnerism.

To end the day, the group ate at Pasaje Resto, one of Argentina’s most famous kosher restaurants. The menu included many cultural and typical Jewish, Argentine foods. We enjoyed salads, empanadas, pizza, and pasta.

Tuesday May 26th, 2015

Buenos Aires is a city built on immigration from mainly European countries and Jewish people added a lot of diversity to the initial culture of Buenos Aires. We initially started our tour at AMIA which is the Jewish Federation of Argentina. AMIA provides several services to its members including job opportunities, legal issues, and travel to Israel. AMIA was a target of a terrorist attack that killed 85 people and damaged the building extensively. Today, AMIA is under extensive security and a passport is required in most cases for tourists. These were some of the artifacts that survived the blast and are still on display today.

The next stop on the tour was the Abasto. Years ago, the Abasto used to be an old farmers market. Over the years it went out of use and was empty. It was recently renovated and today it is a mall with several American brands such as Wendy’s and Burger King.

There are over 95 synagogues in Buenos Aires and the next stop on the tour was the oldest synagogue in Buenos Aires. The synagogues was first started in 1897 by Russian Jews but it wasn’t completed until 1932. The architecture of this synagogue was just like that of a Catholic Church.

The synagogue also had a museum that included items that immigrants had brought over from their homelands. After we got to the hotel we had a conversation with a Guest Professor that talked with us about about various topics concerning Argentina. The viewpoint from a professor that wasn’t from the United States was interesting to hear and really gave a different feel to the topic rather than the news that I have seen beforehand in America.

To finish the day we had a group dinner at El Pasaje Resto. El Pasaje Resto is a Jewish restaurant and the meal was kosher and predominantly vegetarian. It was interesting to see a different style of dinner because up until now it had been predominantly meat. The meal tied the entire day together and really showed the impact of a specific culture on Buenos Aires.