On the Fence

On our last leg of the trip, we visited Berlin, Germany. I was excited to come here and see the war from the other side’s point of view. After visiting multiple sites, like the German Historical Museum and the Topography of Terror, I had mixed feelings about Germany’s presentation of the war. In both museums, Germany definitely owned up to the atrocities they committed, and did not attempt to gloss over the gory details. However, while many of my classmates were very impressed by this show of humility, I am on the fence—or should I say wall. Obviously Germany has to be honest about what happened during the war—when the entire world is watching you there’s very little wiggle room. Additionally, I would expect that Germany be honest as a bare minimum. What I personally thought was lacking was any explanation or emotion surrounding how the entire nation came together under the Third Reich and supported Hitler and his policies. The museums were very matter-of-fact in their presentation of data, and I felt like there was a piece of the story missing; they were clear about the “what” but not necessarily the “how” or “why”.

The other sites we visited, including the Reichstag and the Wannsee House, I was more impressed. Our tour guide at the Reichstag was very informative about Germany’s new government and all of the ways they have made their government transparent—even the building is completely see through—and divided power to prevent any dictators. At the Wannsee House, which was on a very scenic lake, there was more emotion and direct quotes from people who suffered in the Holocaust and other Germans who lived while Hitler was in power. This was my favorite exhibit, because I think it tried the most to understand  and explain what happened leading up to and during the war, rather than just stating facts and events. Although, the Holocaust exhibit at the British Imperial War Museum is by far the best I have seen, which is slightly disappointing on Germany’s part, considering they were the most involved. Overall, it was very interesting to see how Germany’s war history lines up with my American knowledge.

Some other sites we visited were the Olympic Stadium and the Memorial to the Murdered Jews in Europe. I really enjoyed both of these—and not just because I needed a break from museums! The Olympic Stadium was really cool to see, especially since former Buckeye Jesse Owens raced there. Furthermore, the Memorial to the Murdered Jews in Europe was my favorite memorial I have visited on this trip. The various sized blocks and uneven ground makes a sort of maze, and when you walk through alone it is supposed to symbolize people during the Holocaust; you never know where you’re going, who you’ll see, or never see again. It is a powerful experience and very unique and well-done memorial.

Memorial to the Murdered Jews in Europe

View from Reichstag

Taking a Step Back

Throughout my Spring studies and almost my entire educational career, I have learned about the Holocaust. I learned about the atrocities committed by the Germans against the Jews and about the sites at which these atrocities occurred. I feel like I have always known the name “Auschwitz” and associated it as the epitome of the Holocaust, and therefore the epitome of sadness, despair, and injustice. None of these preconceived ideas could have prepared me for actually visiting the Auschwitz-Birkenau complex.

Being in Krakow was eye-opening in a number of ways, but the most striking thing was that we were in the exact places  where the Nazi’s victims were years ago. It was particularly chilling to walk around Auschwitz and know that persecuted prisoners walked this exact path. Seeing everything that they saw—the barracks, barbed wire fences and gates. The various exhibits we walked through containing personal items of Jews who had been killed were difficult to look at. We saw the luggage they brought, their clothes, shoes, shaven hair, and other personal belongings. The tiny little kids shoes were among the hardest to look at. To imagine how they must have felt—packing up their pots and pans, believing that they were simply being relocated—when they realized what their true fate would be, is unfathomable. Worse still than this was going inside the gas chamber, which they believed was a shower.

I believe that everyone studying the war (at least) should visit a concentration camp, because being there specifically influenced my understanding of the war. Up until this point, we had been learning a lot about the war and dynamics between the Allies and Germany, and it’s easy to get caught up in the logistics of it all. But being at Auschwitz reminded me of what the war was all about, and just how terrible the Nazis really were. I am honestly at a loss for words.

The other site we visited,  Schindler’s Factory, was also quite interesting. The museum showed Poland’s point of view throughout the Nazi occupation. This was a refreshingly different perspective to hear. There has been much  controversy surrounding the recent law in Poland that outlawed blaming Poland for any crimes committed during the Holocaust. While I do not agree with this law, I think our Polish guide did a fine job at both sites. She explicitly clarified that they are German concentration camps in Poland but  did not seem particularly comfortable answering a question about Polish citizens living in towns around concentration camps. I think it is hard to judge how much she was influenced by the recent legislation, but also important to remember that she is Polish and has probably been taught Polish history the same way Americans are taught American history—with a bit of bias.

 

A New Perspective

Upon arriving in France, it began to really hit me that I am, indeed, American. Previously visiting Ireland and England, I had not yet faced a language barrier—or any outright discrimination—throughout my travels. Although most of the French people I have encountered have been nothing but warm and helpful, I can definitely tell I am an outsider here. This feeling was most pronounced when we tried to enter the Caen Memorial Museum, and while there were many other large student groups entering the museum at the same time, only we were not allowed to bring in our purses and backpacks. Although not a very large inconvenience, it was still eye-opening to be discriminated against ever so slightly for our American-ness.

Getting into the sites that we have visited—the Caen Memorial Museum, Utah Beach, Omaha Beach, the Airborne Museum, Point du Hoc, the Muse de Armee and various cemeteries, to name a few—have proven to be equally foreign to me. The museums we visit almost all present France to be synonymous with the Allies, the Caen Memorial Museum claiming De Gaulle as Churchill and Roosevelt’s equivalent. All of the French museums took great pride in the French resistance and placed extra emphasis their contributions to the war, claiming that since France had a resistance at all that they are among the allied victors of the war. While it was admirable that some people in France resisted Hitler’s regime, the museums seemed to gloss over the vast amount of collaboration that ensued. Not only this, but the Holocaust exhibit at Caen was much smaller and less comprehensive than that of the Imperial War Museum in London.

Although I question these things, it is also worth noting that this trip is the first time I have experienced history from another country’s perspective. In London, I did not notice as much disparity between my American knowledge of the war and the information they presented. But in France, the differences were more noticeable. Going off of this, there were many instances in France that the war seemed a bit too sensationalized rather than memorialized. Obviously this is for tourist purposes, but the colorful pamphlets advertising the “D-Day Festival” in Bayeux and video-game like setup of the Airborne Museum—which made parachuting behind enemy lines feel like a Disney attraction—did not sit well with me.

The most impactful thing we did here, in my opinion, was visit the German, British, and American cemeteries. Each one was unique and inspired reflection, which I appreciate. We also placed Ohio State flags on the graves of fallen Buckeyes at the American cemetery that we learned about in class.

All things considered, France was not what I expected it to be. I have heard the rumors about angry French people who hate Americans, but everyone I interacted with was extremely accommodating and pleasant. There was even a sign on a restaurant in Bayeux proclaiming “We welcome our liberators!” The beaches we visited were austere and beautiful, and the town of Bayeux was charming as can be. Paris was also incredible, and even though I never had any desire to visit France prior to this, I definitely can’t wait to come back!

Eiffel Tower

Utah Beach

Richard Kersting (fellow Buckeye) grave at the American Cemetery

 

The Courage to Continue

Winston Churchill and the people of Britain fought valiantly against all odds in pursuit of victory, liberty, and the greater good, even when their allies let them down. The famous “People’s War” in Britain cannot be exaggerated; although I marveled at their efforts already, I gained an entirely new appreciation for all of these aspects of the war in Britain during my time in London. At the Churchill War Rooms, the dedication of Churchill and those who worked alongside him in such conditions was impossible to miss. Seeing the telephone room, in which Churchill and Roosevelt maintained their special relationship, made me almost feel the stress and desperation that Churchill must have felt. The room is small and unassuming—just 4 concrete walls with a special scrambled telephone and seat—and was disguised as Churchill’s private bathroom to the general staff in the war rooms. I recently watched the film “The Darkest Hour,” which I believe also contributed to my appreciation and understanding of how they were forced to work underground at all hours of the day, and which I highly recommend to anyone who can’t make the trip across the pond!

The next site I visited was Bletchley Park. The  number of ordinary people—especially women— who worked at the park to decode German Enigma messages is astounding, including more than ten thousand at its peak of operations. On top of this, their dedication to keep their work a secret at all costs—not even telling their families or loved ones long after the vow of secrecy was ended—which I can only interpret as incredible loyalty to their cause. Our tour guide even mentioned that a couple was married for years before discovering that they had both worked at Bletchley until each being invited to a reunion at the park. It is clear to see that they were enthusiastic and determined to contribute to their nation’s victory.

The Imperial War Museum, pictured below, also had a very interesting exhibit in which it showcased the life of the Allpress family throughout the war in order to convey the wartime lives of a typical British family. This was the most obvious example to show that the war somehow touched almost every British person at the time; the Allpress’s sons both fought in the war, while their daughters volunteered in the Women’s Voluntary Service. Mrs. Allpress made due with the family’s allotted rations by getting creative in the kitchen and mending the childrens’ clothes to make them last as long as possible. The exhibit also showcased a model of the same bomb shelter that the Allpress’s had in their backyard, which was tiny and difficult to imagine families throughout London squeezing into during the raids. Cramming into the miniscule tin box was enough of a challenge for me and a couple friends, but nonetheless, the Allpresses did it.  Another site we stopped at was the Royal Air Force Bomber Command Memorial in Green Park. I have included a picture of this beautiful memorial below. This memorial was beautifully made, with oversized statues of RAF Bombers and an open roof that allowed the sky to be seen from any angle. This memorial also paid tribute to all civilians in every nation who were killed in the bombings from 1939-1945. This, again, highlights the idea of unity between the people of London and beyond through the difficult war.

In addition to what I gleaned from the sites themselves, the giftshops and bookstores of these sites shed some light on the people’s war in Britain. In every one there were multiple postcards, posters, and recipe books about rations and about Winston Churchill, clearly emphasizing the love and admiration for Churchill along with the united sacrifice that the Britons made throughout the conflict. Although it is easy to interpret the war from my American perspective, being in London at all of these sites reminded me that the war was completely different here. Every single person was touched by its effects, whether they served in the military, worked for the government, or simply made do with their rations and took cover in a bomb shelter. It has been eye-opening to see first-hand the perseverance and toil that took place here in Britain that Americans never had to endure.

Statue of bombers inside the Royal Air Force Bomber Command Memorial in Hyde Park